Hanoi runs on soup. From 5:30, charcoal fires heat enormous pots of broth in the alleys of the Old Quarter, and by 6:00 the city smells of star anise, beef bones and grilled pork fat. A restaurant here serves just one thing, and a bowl of phở at one of […]
In Hanoi, 2 hotels at the same price can give you radically different stays. A €35 boutique hotel in the Old Quarter puts you 30 seconds from the best phở in the city, with motorbike horns below your window from 5:00; the same €35 in West Lake buys you silence, […]
Hanoi was founded in 1010, when Emperor Ly Thai To moved his court to the banks of the Red River: 1,000 years later, a Confucian temple dating from 1070 stands a 15-minute walk from a French colonial opera house completed in 1911. What should you see in Hanoi? Here are […]
Hanoi runs at two speeds: in the city, motorbikes, street food stalls and thousand-year-old temples crowd into alleys barely wide enough for a cyclo; a few hours’ drive away, I found karst peaks rising from emerald water, terraced rice fields and river caves you paddle through by hand. What should […]
Hanoi rewards those who do their homework before landing: a single official visa website, buried beneath a dozen paid impostors, banknotes with so many zeros that I briefly felt like a millionaire, damp winters at 10 degrees and monsoon summers at 35 degrees. Here is my practical preparation guide; the […]
Hanoi grabs your senses before you have time to settle in: from the back of a Grab, I watched a river of motorbikes part around the car like water around a pebble, someone grilling pork on the pavement and a woman in a conical hat (nón lá) weaving through traffic […]
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