A creamy, spicy Thai crab curry, blending roasted chili paste, milk powder, and crisp aromatics for a main dish packed with flavor.

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Follow the scent of toasted curry mingling with briny steam drifting through Bangkok’s alleys at dusk. You’ll likely stop in front of a wok where a crab sizzles.

The cook pours in a rich, egg-yolk-colored paste that, in seconds, transforms into a glossy, saffron-hued sauce, coating the legs and claws. This is Pad Pong Karee: delicately aromatic rather than fiercely spicy, silky instead of soupy, made to envelop a mound of jasmine rice.

On a single plate, you taste three culinary influences: British curry powder inspired by India, wok technique from China, and the Thai knack for balancing sweet, salty, and spicy flavors.

Gaeng Hang Lay - Header — Try the gaeng hang lay too, a delicious Thai pork curry

From the Docks of Shanghai to the Woks of Bangkok

Pad Pong Karee first appeared in the Chinese seafood restaurants of Bangkok in the mid-20th century, when imported English curry powder was gaining popularity. Some historians credit chefs from Shanghai or Penang for its creation.

Somboon Seafood, which opened in 1969 in Bangkok, later made it a house specialty—still famous in the capital today. The key ingredient was a tin of Madras-style yellow curry powder, made in Britain. This Anglo-Indian blend, rich in turmeric and coriander, traveled the trade routes of the Empire.

Sino-Thai cooks enhanced these spices with soy sauce and a spoonful of smoky nam prik pao, then thickened the sauce with egg, Cantonese-style. Legends mention Penang merchants, Shanghai dockside kitchens, even Indo-Portuguese curries from Goa; whichever story you prefer, the finished dish is unmistakably Thai in its balance and generosity.

What Makes a Pad Pong Karee “Authentic”?

Authenticity is less about strict rules than about a recognizable character. The aroma should come from dry yellow curry powder (not a Thai yellow curry paste). In the creamy version, the sauce should reach a custard-like consistency that coats rather than drowns.

Creamy version: curry powder quickly toasted in oil; a spoonful of nam prik pao and its red oil; beaten eggs loosened with evaporated milk or coconut milk; light soy sauce and oyster sauce; white pepper, slivers of onion, and a handful of Chinese celery for freshness.
Classic protein: blue crab or mud crab, shell on; shrimp, mixed seafood, or chicken also work beautifully with the sauce.
To avoid: adding basil or makrut lime, which overpower the curry’s flavors, or accidentally omitting egg and milk: there is a “dry” variant without egg, but it should be clearly stated as such.

The technique is gentler than most stir-fries: use medium heat, stir constantly, and be sure to turn off the heat while the sauce still ripples slightly; the residual warmth gives it a final gloss. When done right, every bit of shell comes out golden and lacquered, fragrant but never dry.

Regional Variations

Across Thailand, this curry—creamy or dry—varies by region. In Bangkok, you’ll find a pale sauce made with evaporated milk and just enough chili for a gentle tingle. Further south, cooks use rich coconut cream and add extra bird’s-eye chilies, turning the sauce more orange.

Soft-shell crab makes the whole crustacean edible, while busy weeknight cooks often reach for handy tubs of pre-picked crabmeat—convenient but less flavorful. Online forums debate whether soy sauce or fish sauce should dominate: the current consensus is that light soy sauce provides the salty base, while a splash of fish sauce adds depth without masking the Chinese notes.

How Thais Enjoy It

Pad Pong Karee is usually served in the center of a shared table. It’s surrounded by a plate of crisp water spinach stir-fry or a clear soup to refresh the palate.

Diners crack open the crimson-tinged shells, letting the rice soak up the golden sauce, while a small dish of prik nam pla—fish sauce with chopped chilies—waits for those who want an extra kick.

The visual sign of success is easy to spot: fine streaks of red chili oil run through a gentle yellow sauce, celery leaves stay bright green, and the aroma of spices drifts softly.