I have been going to New York every year since I was a child: my family lives in Connecticut. December is when the city pulls out all the stops, with the Rockefeller Center tree, the 5th Avenue windows and ice rinks right in Midtown. Every time I am in New York in December, the icy wind rushing between the avenues still catches me off guard.
This guide gives the 2026 date for each event, or “not announced” when nothing is official yet. Prices are as of 6 October 2026, and I tell you which week to choose. First surprise: at the same hotel, Christmas week costs less than early December. At the Hampton Inn on 35th Street, four nights from 23 to 27 December cost 1,796 $ for two, compared with 1,938 $ for three nights from 4 to 7.
At a glance
The week to choose: the week of Monday 14 December. All the lights are on, hotel nights are among the cheapest of the month and the school holidays have not started.
Book now: your hotel, with free cancellation, then the Rockettes, whose prices rise as Christmas approaches.
The free outing not to miss: the illuminated houses of Dyker Heights, in Brooklyn, on a weekday evening before 21:00.
Avoid: Times Square on 31 December, at least 9 hours standing without toilets for a ball that drops in 60 seconds.
Dates and prices checked on 6 October 2026; unannounced 2026 dates are flagged.
In this guide
- Which week to choose
- The Rockefeller Center tree
- The 5th Avenue windows
- Christmas markets
- Ice rinks
- Dyker Heights, the illuminated houses
- Shows: the Rockettes and The Nutcracker
- Christmas on 24 and 25 December
- New Year
- Where to stay in December
- What it really costs
- A 4-day itinerary
- Practical information
- Frequently asked questions
Which week to choose
In December, hotel and flight prices do not follow the same pattern. At the same Manhattan hotels, the night of Tuesday 1 December 2026 costs about a third more than Tuesday 15, and Tuesday 22 is a little cheaper still. The night of Thursday 31 costs 1.7 times as much as a night in mid-December. At Pod 51, in Midtown East, the nightly rate drops from 342 $ on 1 December to 153 $ on 22.
Flights do the opposite. From Paris, a nonstop return flight costs 489 to 499 € in early December, 691 to 711 € during Christmas week and 725 to 868 € for New Year. From Brussels, expect to pay 658 to 697 €, 759 € and 988 € on the same dates, or 595 to 749 € with one stop. From Hainaut, Paris is often cheaper, but weigh that against the train journey to Roissy.
School holidays fill the planes. In France, they run from Saturday 19 December 2026 to Monday 4 January 2027, the day school resumes; in the Wallonia-Brussels Federation, from Monday 21 December to Friday 1 January; in Flanders, from 21 December to Sunday 3 January. Before 19 December, everyone is still at school.
For smaller crowds, aim for weekdays: 5th Avenue is busiest on weekend evenings. One Saturday in December, SantaCon sends thousands of people dressed as Santa Claus from bar to bar in Midtown and the East Village. It was on 13 December in 2025, and the 2026 date is not confirmed: avoid the bars in those neighborhoods that day.
Thanksgiving is the “before December” option: the 100th Macy’s parade starts on Thursday 26 November 2026 at 8:30, with a record 100 inflatables. The ice rinks and the markets at Bryant Park, Union Square and Grand Central are open, but the tree is not lit until 2 December.
| Period | Atmosphere | Hotel prices (mid-December = 100) | My take |
|---|---|---|---|
| Thanksgiving, 26-29 November | Parade on Thursday 26 at 8:30, most markets and ice rinks open, tree not yet lit | Not checked, among the most expensive nights of the year | For the parade, without the tree |
| Early December, 1-13 December | Tree lit on 2, Hanukkah from 4 to 12, schools in session everywhere | 132 (Tuesday 1) | The cheapest flights, expensive hotels |
| Mid-December, 14-20 December | All the lights are on, packed weekends | 100 (Tuesday 15) | My week, Monday to Thursday |
| Christmas week, 21-27 December | School holidays, a slower pace on 25 | 94 (Tuesday 22) | The cheapest nights in December |
| New Year, 28 December-2 January | Peak crowds, Times Square cordoned off on the afternoon of 31 | 126 (Tuesday 29), 171 (Thursday 31) | Only if 31 is the reason for the trip |
My choice: the week of Monday 14 December, from Monday to Thursday. The tree and window displays are in place, Dyker Heights is at its best, and hotels are almost at their lowest prices of the month. With children, go during Christmas week: flights cost more, hotels cost less, and the total budget drops (see below).
The Rockefeller Center tree
The tree is a Norway spruce erected every year above the Rockefeller Center ice rink, between 5th and 6th Avenue, at 49th and 50th Street. In 2026, it arrives on Saturday 7 November and is lit on Wednesday 2 December, the Wednesday after Thanksgiving.
The ceremony time has not been announced; in past years, the tree was lit just before 22:00, live on television. Avoid that evening: in 2025, police closed the streets from 46th to 52nd between 5th and 6th Avenue and penned the public into holding areas.
In 2025, the tree shone from 5:00 to midnight, stayed lit for 24 hours straight on 24 December and went dark as early as 21:00 on 31; it stayed up until around 10 January. The 2026 hours have not been announced.
My advice: come at 7:00 on a weekday morning, never on a Saturday evening. Stand on 5th Avenue and look west through the Channel Gardens: the tree, the golden statue of Prometheus and the ice rink line up.
In 2025, it stood 75 feet tall (about 23 m) beneath a Swarovski star weighing about 410 kg; the origin and height of the 2026 tree have not been announced. After the holidays, it becomes lumber for Habitat for Humanity homes, as it has every year since 2007.
The ice rink and Top of the Rock
The Rink, beneath the tree, celebrates its 90th season from Saturday 10 October 2026 to 27 March 2027. Admission starts at 22 $ for a 60-minute session, but climbs to 74 $ on a peak weekend; skate rental is 12 $. In 2025-26, the price went as high as 124 $ depending on the date and time.
Top of the Rock, the Rockefeller Center observation deck, opens from 8:00 to midnight, with last entry at 23:10. Timed tickets cost about 42 to 71 $ before tax depending on the time; sunset is the most expensive slot.
The Empire State Building, open 365 days a year, heats its 86th-floor terrace in winter. It is busiest in the hour after sunset, around 16:30-17:30 in December.
For somewhere to stay nearby: Midtown East, around Grand Central, in my hotel guide.
The 5th Avenue window displays
The Christmas window displays stretch from 34th to 59th Street. It gets dark around 16:30 in December: head out then, preferably on a weekday.
Saks Fifth Avenue
Saks, at 611 Fifth Avenue, faces Rockefeller Center. In 2025, its facade came alive with a free light show lasting 3 to 4 minutes, every 10 minutes from 17 to 23, from November 24 to early January.
Nothing has been announced for 2026. The show was canceled in 2024 before returning in 2025. The store’s owner emerged from bankruptcy on June 26, 2026 under the name Exemplar Luxury Group. If the show returns, watch it from the sidewalk across the street, in front of Rockefeller Center: the next one starts 10 minutes later.
Bergdorf Goodman and 57th Street
To me, Bergdorf Goodman, on 5th Avenue at 58th Street, has the most elaborate window displays in the city. In 2025, its nine windows, handmade by around a hundred artisans over nine months, were unveiled on November 20 and stayed up until January 5. Dates for 2026 have not been announced.
Along the way, Cartier (653 Fifth Avenue, at 52nd Street) wraps its facade in a glowing red ribbon and bow every year, like a gift. Tiffany (727 Fifth Avenue, at 57th Street) also decorates its windows for Christmas.
Macy’s and my walking route
Macy’s Herald Square, at 34th Street and Broadway, has six Christmas windows on the Broadway side. In 2025, unveiled on November 20, they told the story of the store’s “firsts,” including its first in-store Santa Claus in 1861. Dates for 2026 have not been announced.
My route: from Macy’s, head up 5th Avenue to Saks (about 1.5 km, 20 minutes), cross the street for the tree, then continue toward Cartier, Tiffany and Bergdorf (700 m, 10 minutes). Bloomingdale’s, at 59th Street and Lexington Avenue, is another 10 minutes east. In total, allow about 3 km and 40 minutes of walking, not counting stops.
Christmas markets in New York
These are craft and gift markets, where food comes at New York prices.
Bryant Park Winter Village
The Bank of America Winter Village takes over Bryant Park, on 42nd Street between 5th and 6th Avenue, from Wednesday, October 28, 2026 to February 28, 2027. For me, it is the best of the four because it surrounds the city’s only free ice rink.
Its more than 180 stalls, housed in glass kiosks, stay until January 3, 2027, open from 11 to 20 on weekdays and from 10 to 20 on weekends. Beside the ice, The Lodge, a food hall with two bars, stays open until 22, and until 23:30 from November 18 to January 3.
In 2024-25, a cone of Belgian fries there cost 14 $: that will make a Belgian smile. From December 14 to 18, 2026, Santa Claus welcomes visitors behind the carousel, with no ticket required.
For somewhere to stay nearby: Midtown, in my hotel guide.
Union Square Holiday Market
The Union Square market occupies the southwest corner of the square, on the 14th Street side; it is scheduled for November 12 to December 24, 2026. It opens from 11 to 20 on weekdays, from 10 to 20 on Saturdays and from 11 to 19 on Sundays.
Columbus Circle Holiday Market
At the southwest corner of Central Park, the Columbus Circle market has not yet announced its 2026 dates. In 2025, it opened from December 2 to 31, from 11 to 19 Sunday through Thursday and until 20 on Fridays and Saturdays, closing on the 25th.
Grand Central Holiday Fair
The Grand Central market takes place in the station’s Vanderbilt Hall, from November 9 to December 24, 2026, with free admission. Until December 16, it opens from 10 to 19 Monday through Saturday and from 11 to 18 on Sundays; from the 17th to the 23rd, from 10 to 20; on the 24th, from 10 to 18.
Vendors sell handmade, nonperishable goods made in the United States: there are no food stalls. Each vendor pays 19,500 $ in rent for the 45 days, which explains the prices. It is the only indoor market of the four, handy on a day of freezing rain.
The ice rinks
At every rink, book a time slot online before you go, even for a free rink.
Bryant Park, the free ice rink
The Bryant Park ice rink is the best deal in the city because it is free if you bring your own skates. You still need to book a free “Bring Your Own Skates” ticket: the 50-minute slots become available a week in advance, one per person per day.
It opens every day from 8 to 22, and until midnight from November 19 to January 3. If you do not have skates, rentals cost between 18.72 and 64.48 $ in 2025-26, depending on the time slot.
Wollman Rink, in Central Park
Wollman Rink, in Central Park near 59th Street, opens from October 24, 2026 to March 16, 2027. In December, adults pay 28 $ on the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 7th, 8th, 9th, 10th, 14th and 15th, and 40 $ on all other days, including the 24th, 25th and 31st, when the rink is open. Children aged 4 to 12 pay 12 $, as does anyone renting skates, including tax.
On Mondays and Tuesdays, the rink closes at 14:30; on other days, at 21 or 22. Even if you are not skating, everyone must have a ticket and sign a waiver. Since 2021, the rink has been run by Wollman Park Partners, which succeeded the Trump Organization.
My ranking: Bryant Park for the price, Wollman for Central Park, Rockefeller Center for the photo under the tree. For somewhere to stay near Central Park: Upper West Side and Upper East Side.
Dyker Heights, Brooklyn’s illuminated houses
Dyker Heights is a residential neighborhood in southern Brooklyn where homeowners cover their houses with lights, animatronics and nativity scenes. It’s free and has no organizer. The decorations usually go up the weekend after Thanksgiving, so around November 27-29, 2026 if the tradition holds, and stay until early January. The best time to go is from mid-December to the 31st.
The houses are between 11th and 13th Avenue, from 83rd to 86th Street, with the highest concentration on 84th Street, between 11th and 12th Avenue. At 1152 84th Street, Lucy Spata has been decorating since 1986 in memory of her mother; when someone asks her to stop, she replies: “When you pay my mortgage, I’ll stop.” Across the street, at 1145, the famous “Toyland” disappeared when the house was sold in 2021, and many guides are out of date.
Getting there: take the D train to 79 St, then walk uphill for about 15 minutes, or the R train to 86 St, then walk for 10 to 20 minutes. Come between nightfall, around 16:30, and 21:00, when most houses switch off their lights. Aim for a weekday: crowds peak on mid-December weekends. Stay on the sidewalk, people live here.
Alternatively, the A Slice of Brooklyn bus leaves Union Square at 18:00 and 19:00 every evening in December except the 24th and 25th, at 65 $ per adult (listed price with no date). It often sells out.
The shows: the Rockettes and The Nutcracker
The Rockettes’ Christmas Spectacular
The Rockettes perform their Christmas Spectacular at Radio City Music Hall, at 1260 6th Avenue, from November 4, 2026 to January 4, 2027: 230 performances, a record. The show runs for 90 minutes, with no intermission.
Tickets start at 50 $ at the box office and 55 $ online; full-price tickets range from 65 to 520 $, and prices rise as Christmas approaches. On peak days, there are up to five performances a day, the first at 10. Arrive 30 minutes early: latecomers have to wait for a scene change to take their seats, and there is no coat check. With children, this is the show to book: visual, short, with pyrotechnics, confetti and drones.
The Nutcracker at New York City Ballet
New York City Ballet performs George Balanchine’s The Nutcracker at the David H. Koch Theater, at Lincoln Center (63rd Street and Columbus Avenue), from November 27, 2026 to January 2, 2027, running for about 2 hours including intermission.
More than 120 children from the School of American Ballet dance with the company, with a live orchestra, and the show is recommended for ages 5 and up. In 2025-26, tickets ranged from 95 to 392 $; 2026 prices have not yet been posted. Buy from nycballet.com, the ballet’s official website.
The ballet requires no English: it’s my choice for slightly older children. For a place to stay near Lincoln Center: Upper West Side and Upper East Side.
Christmas on December 24 and 25
December 24
On Thursday the 24th, department stores close early (Macy’s at 19 in 2025, 2026 hours not announced). Book your dinner well in advance. The Guggenheim closes at 16, and the Statue of Liberty’s crown admits its last visitors at 13:30. The Union Square and Grand Central markets close for the season that day.
Christmas Mass
Tickets for midnight Mass at Saint Patrick’s Cathedral, on 5th Avenue between 50th and 51st Street, are awarded through an online lottery, which closes in early October for 2026. The other Christmas Masses do not require tickets, but are packed.
I’d recommend the Cathedral of St John the Divine instead, on Amsterdam Avenue at 112th Street. On December 24, 2025, it offered Lessons & Carols at 16 and a Mass at 22:30, with free admission and seating on a first-come, first-served basis; 2026 times are not confirmed.
December 25: what’s open
On the 25th, New York feels like a quiet Sunday, and the subway runs on a Sunday schedule. The Met, MoMA, Museum of Natural History, Guggenheim, Whitney, Frick, September 11 Museum and Statue of Liberty close. The September 11 Memorial pools (from 8 to 20), the Empire State Building, Central Park Zoo and Wollman Rink remain open.
A Chinese Christmas
Eating Chinese food on the 25th is a tradition among American Jewish families. It began in the Lower East Side, where the city’s two large non-Christian immigrant communities lived side by side in the late nineteenth century.
My choice that day: 456 New Shanghai, at 69 Mott Street, my favorite spot in New York, for soup dumplings. The restaurant does not publish Christmas hours: call (212) 349-9999 before going.
A reliable plan B: the food court at New World Mall, in Flushing, at the end of the 7 line. It’s open from 10 to 22 on the 24th, 25th, 31st and January 1st, with around thirty food stalls (some may close). For a place to stay near Chinatown: Lower Manhattan and Financial District.
New Year in New York
Times Square as it really is
Times Square is free and requires no ticket: first come, first served. The viewing pens officially open at 15:00, entry is only via 6th and 8th Avenue, and around 16:00, both avenues close. The ball on One Times Square is raised around 18:00 and drops over 60 seconds starting at 23:59.
There are no toilets or vendors, and leaving your pen, even for dinner, means losing your spot. Backpacks, umbrellas, folding chairs, blankets and alcohol are banned, and all bags are searched. From 15:00 to midnight, that means at least 9 hours standing outside, on a night when the temperature normally drops to -1.1 °C.
My take: I don’t recommend it unless it’s a lifelong dream. A French-style New Year’s Eve, dinner followed by going out around midnight, doesn’t work with Times Square. In 2025, trains did not stop around Times Square from 15 minutes before until 15 minutes after the ball drop: plan to walk a few blocks.
My alternatives, in order
First choice: dinner, then the free fireworks at Prospect Park in Brooklyn, at midnight and without viewing pens. In 2025, a concert started at 22:00. The best viewpoints are Grand Army Plaza, the park’s West Drive and Prospect Park West as far as 9th Street. The 2026 event has not been announced; in 2025, the announcement came in early November.
Second choice, if you run: the Midnight Run in Central Park, on Thursday, December 31, 2026. It’s 4 miles (6.4 km), starting at midnight under fireworks, for ages 8 and up. Registration costs up to 74.02 $, with a wristband for one accompanying spectator.
Third choice: a room facing the skyline across the water, such as at the Aloft in Long Island City or the 1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge, two hotels in my guide. In Times Square, rooms with ball views at the Marriott Marquis do not allow arrivals on the 31st and require stays of 3 to 4 nights; the price is not published.
Fourth choice, free but distant: the Staten Island ferry, from which you can see the fireworks launched at midnight near Liberty Island. The timing is tight: the 23:30 boat docks around 23:55, and you have to get off and then board again.
For reference, at Bar 54, on the 54th floor of the Hyatt Centric Times Square, the December 31, 2026 party starts at 1 499 $ per person, including an open bar and a view of the ball. This price can double as the date approaches.
January 1st
On Friday, January 1st, 2027, the Met and the Frick are closed, but MoMA opens: that’s the day to go. The Museum of Natural History was open during normal hours on January 1st, 2026, and the Statue of Liberty opens.
The bravest take a dip at Coney Island for the Polar Bear Plunge. In 2026, it ran from 11:00 to 13:00, with a minimum donation of 30 $ strongly encouraged.
Where to stay in December
Here are the December prices for six hotels from my guide to hotels in New York, as totals for the stay for two adults, including taxes and fees. These are the lowest prices displayed on October 6, 2026 on the hotel’s website or a major booking site.
| Hotel | Neighborhood | Dec. 4-7 (3 nights) | Dec. 23-27 (4 nights) | Dec. 30-Jan. 2 (3 nights) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| The Chemists’ Club Hotel | Midtown East | 2 985 $ (995 $ per night) | 2 556 $ (639 $ per night) | 2 472 $ (824 $ per night) |
| Hampton Inn Manhattan-35th St/Empire State Bldg | Midtown | 1 938 $ (646 $ per night) | 1 796 $ (449 $ per night) | 1 641 $ (547 $ per night) |
| Fairfield Inn & Suites Manhattan/Financial District | Lower Manhattan | 1 422 $ (474 $ per night) | 1 540 $ (385 $ per night) | 1 335 $ (445 $ per night) |
| Hotel Beacon | Upper West Side | 2 628 $ (876 $ per night) | 2 292 $ (573 $ per night) | 1 947 $ (649 $ per night) |
| Hyatt Place Long Island City | Long Island City (Queens) | 1 833 $ (611 $ per night) | 2 032 $ (508 $ per night) | 1 347 $ (449 $ per night) |
| Pod 51 | Midtown East | 1 251 $ (417 $ per night) | 1 112 $ (278 $ per night) | 1 251 $ (417 $ per night) |
Per night, the December 4 to 7 weekend is the most expensive period at all six hotels, tied with New Year at Pod 51. During Christmas week, a night costs about a third less.
I stay in Midtown East, around Grand Central, and for me it’s the best neighborhood in December. The tree, 5th Avenue and Bryant Park are within walking distance, and the Grand Central market is inside the station. At the Hampton Inn, Fairfield and Hyatt Place, breakfast was included in these prices. At Pod 51, the cheapest room in early December is a bunk-bed pod with a shared bathroom.
Always compare: at the Chemists’ Club, my favorite hotel, the hotel’s website was more expensive than booking sites for all three periods. On a hotel’s website, taxes, around 14.75 % plus 3.50 $ per night, may still be shown separately: read the total line. Book now with free cancellation, then check the price again every week.
To compare all the hotels by neighborhood, here is the full map.
The map contains affiliate links: if you book through it, I earn a small commission at no cost to you.
What it really costs
Here is the budget for a couple staying 5 nights, flying nonstop from Paris. Low-cost version: Pod 51, the cheapest flight and 45 $ per person per day for food. Typical version: the Hampton Inn on 35th Street, the median flight price and 90 $ per day.
| Item, for two | Early Dec., low-cost | Early Dec., typical | Christmas week, low-cost | Christmas week, typical |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hotel, 5 nights | 2 085 $ (1 850 €) | 3 230 $ (2 866 €) | 1 390 $ (1 233 €) | 2 245 $ (1 992 €) |
| Round-trip Paris-New York flights | 1 102 $ (978 €) | 1 125 $ (998 €) | 1 557 $ (1 382 €) | 1 602 $ (1 422 €) |
| Meals, 5 days | 450 $ (399 €) | 900 $ (799 €) | 450 $ (399 €) | 900 $ (799 €) |
| Subway | 60 $ (53 €) | 70 $ (62 €) | 60 $ (53 €) | 70 $ (62 €) |
| Round-trip JFK transfers (AirTrain and subway, or taxi) | 38 $ (34 €) | 180 $ (160 €) | 38 $ (34 €) | 180 $ (160 €) |
| Tips outside restaurants | 15 $ (13 €) | 25 $ (22 €) | 15 $ (13 €) | 25 $ (22 €) |
| Total excluding shows | 3 750 $ (3 328 €) | 5 530 $ (4 907 €) | 3 510 $ (3 115 €) | 5 022 $ (4 456 €) |
| Total with 2 shows at the lowest prices | 4 050 $ (3 594 €) | 5 830 $ (5 173 €) | 3 810 $ (3 381 €) | 5 322 $ (4 723 €) |
Christmas week works out 240 to 508 $ cheaper: the hotel drops by 695 to 985 $ while flights rise by 455 to 477 $ for two. The December 4 price is a weekend rate; on weekdays, early December would probably cost a little less.
The 45 $ per day covers a bagel with cream cheese at Tal Bagels, beef noodle soup at New World Mall and dinner at 456 New Shanghai. The 90 $ covers pancakes at Golden Diner, a burger at 5 Napkin Burger and dinner at Jacob’s Pickles.
At restaurants, New York adds 8.875 % tax; for table service, the tip is 18 to 20 % of the pre-tax amount, and at the counter, it is optional. A 20 $ dish with table service therefore costs 21.78 $ with tax, then around 25.80 $ with a 20 % tip.
A 4-day itinerary in December
One neighborhood a day, with the lights at nightfall, around 16:30. Hanukkah runs from December 4 to 12, 2026: in 2025, the giant menorah on 5th Avenue, in front of the Plaza Hotel, was lit at 17:30 from Sunday to Thursday (2026 schedule not yet announced).
Day 1: Midtown, from the tree to the window displays
The tree at 7, a bagel at Tal Bagels, then the Bryant Park ice rink, which opens at 8. Stop by the Grand Central market and the Jacques Torres counter in the station’s Lexington passage for the “Wicked” hot chocolate, spiced with ancho and chipotle chilies.
At 16, follow the window displays from Macy’s to Bergdorf. In the evening, a burger at burger joint, hidden in a hotel lobby on 56th Street, then a slice of cheesecake at Junior’s, at 1515 Broadway. To make it at home, here’s my New York cheesecake.
Day 2: Downtown, Chinatown and Union Square
Take a morning ferry to the Statue of Liberty: after 14, there isn’t enough time left for both islands. Then visit the free September 11 Memorial pools, and have lunch at Golden Diner for the honey butter pancakes, which you can recreate with my American pancakes.
In the afternoon, at Russ & Daughters (179 East Houston Street), latkes, or potato pancakes, cost 3.75 $ each. Veniero’s (342 East 11th Street), an Italian pastry shop since 1894, offered pumpkin pie and pecan pie for Thanksgiving, like my American pumpkin pie and my pecan pie.
Finish at the Union Square market, with a chocolate babka from Breads Bakery (18 East 16th Street, 18.95 $). In 2025, French pastry chef Dominique Ansel (189 Spring Street, in SoHo) sold a 70 $ Yule log with candied chestnuts from Aubenas. In the evening, a pizza at Emily, in the West Village, or dinner at Rolf’s, a German restaurant on 3rd Avenue that keeps its Christmas decorations up all year (reservations by phone only, at 212-473-8718).
Day 3: Central Park and the Upper West Side
Skate at Wollman from 10, then walk up to Bethesda Terrace.
Leave the park on the west side: Levain Bakery, at 167 West 74th Street, opened in 1995 and sells the city’s most famous cookie, 6 ounces (about 170 g) with chocolate and walnuts. I prefer the ones at Funny Face Bakery; to compare, here’s my recipe for American cookies.
Have lunch at Charles Pan-Fried Chicken, on 72nd Street, then visit the Museum of Natural History, open until 17:30. In the evening, The Nutcracker at Lincoln Center, then dinner at Jacob’s Pickles, which serves food late.
Day 4: the Rockettes and Brooklyn at night
In the morning, the Rockettes at Radio City, then lunch at Westway Diner, on 9th Avenue. In the afternoon, Dumbo, where Jacques Torres has his original shop, at 66 Water Street.
At nightfall, take the D or R line to Dyker Heights, and leave before 21. On the way back, have dinner at Nan Xiang Xiao Long Bao, near Herald Square. All my recommendations are in my New York restaurant guide.
Practical information
New York weather in December
In December, New York averages 6.8 °C during the day and 1.0 °C at night in Central Park. On December 1, expect 9.4 °C during the day and 3.3 °C at night; on the 31st, 5.0 °C and -1.1 °C. It rains more than it snows: 111 mm of precipitation and 12.4 cm of snow on average in December. In 2025, it was 9 °C on the 25th, and 11 cm of snow covered the ground on the morning of the 27th.
The wind between the buildings and the time spent waiting outside make it feel colder. Bring a hat, gloves and waterproof shoes, which are more useful than a bulky down jacket, and layers you can take off: the subway, shops and museums are heavily heated. It gets dark around 16:30, and New York is 5 hours behind London.
Subway and OMNY
A ride costs 3 $ as of January 4, 2026: tap your contactless bank card or phone on the OMNY reader. Once you reach 35 $ over a rolling 7-day period, subsequent rides are free, as long as you always tap the same card, with one card per person.
Airports in winter
From JFK, the AirTrain (8.75 $) and subway (3 $) add up to 11.75 $ per person. As of June 11, 2026, the second person pays 4.50 $ if you tap the same card twice within 5 minutes: 13.25 $ for the AirTrain for a couple instead of 17.50 $. A yellow taxi costs 76.75 $ from JFK off-peak and 81.75 $ on weekdays from 16 to 20, plus tip and tolls.
From Newark, the NJ Transit train reaches Penn Station for 17.25 $, AirTrain included, in about 30 minutes. The JFK AirTrain website lists overnight closures for maintenance, with replacement shuttles: check it before a late flight.
Holiday hours
The subway runs 24 hours out of 24; in 2025, it followed the weekday schedule on the 24th and the Sunday schedule on the 25th and January 1, and the 2026 schedule comes out in mid-December. At the Guggenheim, the week between Christmas and New Year has the longest opening hours of the year: from 9:30 to 18:30 from Saturday, December 26 to Wednesday, December 30, with pay-what-you-wish admission on the 28th and 30th from 17 to 18:30.
Tipping
For table service, leave 18 to 20 % of the pre-tax amount; at the counter, it’s optional. At the hotel, allow 3 to 5 $ per night for housekeeping.
Frequently asked questions
When is the Rockefeller Center tree lighting in 2026 ?
Wednesday, December 2, 2026. The ceremony time has not yet been announced; in 2025, the tree was lit from 5:00 to midnight and stayed up until around January 10.
How much does a trip to New York at Christmas cost?
For a couple spending 5 nights with a nonstop flight from Paris, budget 3,510 to 5,022 $ (3,115 to 4,456 €) for Christmas week, excluding shows, and 3,750 to 5,530 $ (3,328 to 4,907 €) in early December. Add around 300 $ for two shows for two people, at the lowest prices.
Is it very cold in New York in December?
In December, New York averages 6.8 °C during the day and 1.0 °C at night. The wind between the avenues and the time spent waiting outside make the difference.
Is Times Square on December 31 worth it?
For me, no: the viewing pens open at 15, with no toilets or food, and anyone who leaves loses their spot. The free fireworks at Prospect Park, in Brooklyn, can be combined with dinner.
Are museums open on December 25?
The major museums close: the Met, MoMA, the Museum of Natural History, the Guggenheim, the Whitney, the Frick and the September 11 Museum. The September 11 Memorial pools, the Empire State Building and the Central Park zoo stay open.
Should you book the Rockettes in advance?
Yes, as soon as your dates are set, because prices rise as Christmas approaches. Tickets start at 55 $ online and 50 $ at the box office, for 230 performances from November 4, 2026 to January 4, 2027.
Does it snow at Christmas in New York?
Rarely: a white Christmas happens roughly once every six to eight years, and the one in 2024 was the first since 2009. December gets an average of 12.4 cm of snow, but mostly rain.
Where can you see the best Christmas lights in New York?
In Dyker Heights, Brooklyn, on 84th Street between 11th and 12th Avenue, before 21. In Manhattan, the Rockefeller Center tree, the Cartier facade wrapped in red and, if it returns in 2026, the Saks light show.
Book your hotel now, with free cancellation, and keep your late afternoons and evenings free for the lights, starting at 16:30. Back home, December continues in my kitchen with my cinnamon rolls and the rest of my American cooking.
