Why Phuket divides travelers so much
Phuket is the most polarizing island in Thailand. Spend a week in Patong and you’ll leave convinced it’s an overpriced, overcrowded mess. Settle into Kata, wander Old Town on a Sunday evening, have a Hokkien Mee at a stall near the clock tower, and you won’t understand why anyone has a bad word to say about it. The difference between loving and hating Phuket comes down almost entirely to where you stay and what you do with your days.
It’s the country’s largest island, with the best hospitals, the most international flights, and a variety of cuisine and beaches unmatched on the Andaman coast. But it also has the highest tuk-tuk prices in Thailand, genuine scams targeting tourists, and a nightlife district that sometimes feels like a theme park that went off the rails. Both realities coexist. The trick is knowing which parts of the island deserve your attention and which to skip.
This guide covers everything you need to plan your trip: where to stay, the best beaches, what to eat, activities worth your time, a sample 7-day itinerary, when to go and how to get around without getting ripped off. Each section links to a more detailed guide if you want to dig deeper.
Where to stay (and why it matters more than you think)
Your choice of neighborhood will shape your entire trip. People who complain about Phuket almost always stayed in one spot and never left. Here are the main areas to help you pick the right base.
Patong
Loud, chaotic, packed with bars, nightclubs and touts. This is where you’ll find Bangla Road, the go-go bar district, and the source of most “I hated Phuket” stories. If you’re looking for nightlife, Patong delivers. If that’s not your thing, stay elsewhere.
One upside though: it has the highest concentration of hostels, making it the easiest place to meet other solo travelers.
It’s also the best-connected area for transport, with tuk-tuks and Grab drivers available around the clock. Some people defend Patong as a practical base as long as you leave every morning and only come back in the evening. That’s a reasonable approach, even if you’ll still have to deal with the noise.
Kata and Karon
The sweet spot. Beautiful beaches, plenty of restaurants, walkable streets, a family-friendly vibe. Kata in particular is consistently recommended for a first visit. It’s quieter than Patong but lively enough that you won’t feel isolated. Karon Beach is longer and wider, with more space. Both neighborhoods have convenience stores, pharmacies and ATMs within walking distance of the beach, which matters more than you’d think when you’re sunburned and need aloe vera at 9 PM.
Old Town (Phuket Town)
No beach, but the neighborhood with the most character on the island. Sino-Portuguese shophouses, independent cafes and the Sunday night market, the Walking Street (Lard Yai), which is simply the best evening activity in Phuket. Spend at least a night or two here. Some travelers base themselves in Old Town for the culture and food, then move to a beach area for the second half of their trip.
Rawai and Nai Harn
The expat neighborhood. Nai Harn Beach is the residents’ favorite: crystal-clear water, no jet skis. Rawai has good cafes, a seafood market where you buy your fish from a stall and pay the neighboring restaurant to cook it, and a more “authentic” vibe than the tourist zones.
If you’re staying more than a week, this is your neighborhood. Rawai Beach itself isn’t great for swimming (the water is shallow and cluttered with longtail boats), but Nai Harn is just a few minutes away by scooter, and Promthep Cape for sunsets is right around the corner.
Kamala
Relaxed and slightly upscale. Popular with families and couples looking for quiet evenings and a nice beach without the Patong circus. The beach is clean and uncrowded on weekdays. A few upscale beach clubs (Cafe Del Mar, for instance) have set up here, giving it a more refined feel than the wilder beaches in the south.
Bang Tao and the north
Bang Tao is the resort belt. Large hotel complexes, manicured gardens, higher prices. It feels more like a resort bubble than a Thai island, which is either a plus or a minus depending on your expectations. Further north, Mai Khao and Nai Yang are within Sirinat National Park. These beaches are long, deserted, lined with pine trees rather than hotels. If you’re looking for silence and don’t mind being far from restaurants, the north is for you.
The split-stay strategy
If you have a week, don’t spend it all at the same hotel. A common strategy is to split your stay between Old Town (for food and culture) and a beach area like Kata or Nai Harn. You get two sides of the island without much hassle.
For a complete overview of each neighborhood, with prices and matching traveler profiles, check out our neighborhood-by-neighborhood guide to choosing where to stay.
The beaches
Phuket has over 30 beaches along its west coast, and they vary widely. Some are packed with sun loungers and jet skis. Others are rocky coves where you might be alone all afternoon. Knowing which is which will save you from wasting a day at the wrong spot.
The must-visit beaches
Kata Beach is an excellent choice for a first visit. It has a good range of restaurants, reasonable waves for bodyboarding, and enough space that you won’t feel cramped. Nai Harn, at the far south, is considered by locals and long-term residents to be the most beautiful beach on the island. The water is crystal clear, there are no jet skis, and the surrounding hills give it an intimate, unspoiled feel.
Freedom Beach is harder to reach (you’ll need a longtail boat or a steep hike), but that isolation is exactly what makes it special. Yanui Beach, just below the Windmill Viewpoint, is small and perfect for a lazy afternoon. Up north, Mai Khao Beach stretches for miles with almost nobody on it. Planes from the nearby airport pass right overhead, which is either annoying or entertaining depending on your tolerance.
Beaches to discover on your own
Ao Sane, near Nai Harn, is a good snorkeling spot with a rocky shoreline that keeps the crowds away. Banana Beach, near the airport, takes some effort to find and stays quiet for that reason. Ao Yon, on the Panwa peninsula, attracts almost no tourists. Laem Ka Beach, in the south, is another quiet option, though access can be tricky due to private land disputes near the entrance.
A note on beach quality
Phuket’s beaches face west, which means beautiful sunsets but also full exposure to the Andaman monsoon from May to October. During this period, some beaches have dangerous rip currents and red flags. Lifeguards are present at the main beaches (Kata, Karon, Patong) but not at the smaller or more remote ones.
Water clarity also varies. The best snorkeling and clearest water is at the Similan Islands, not off Phuket’s beaches. If you want to snorkel close to shore, Ao Sane and the rocks around Nai Harn are your best options.
For our full ranking with photos and access directions, check out our complete guide to the 15 most beautiful beaches in Phuket.
What to eat
Most tourists arrive in Phuket and order a Pad Thai. That’s perfectly fine, but the island has its own cuisine, quite distinct from what you’ll find in Bangkok or Chiang Mai. Phuket’s food scene has been shaped by Hokkien Chinese immigrants who settled here generations ago, and the result is a culinary style that leans heavily on pork, noodles and slow-cooked dishes, more so than standard Thai cuisine.
Southern Thai food in general is also significantly spicier than what you’re probably used to. If a server asks whether you want it spicy, say “a little bit” unless you know what you’re getting into.
Must-try dishes
Hokkien Mee is Phuket’s signature noodle dish: thick wheat noodles stir-fried in a dark soy sauce broth. Mee Ton Poe, near the Old Town clock tower, is the go-to spot. It doesn’t look like much from the outside, but that’s usually a good sign.
Moo Hong is pork braised slowly in soy sauce, pepper and garlic until it falls apart. One Chun and Raya, both in Old Town, are the two most-cited restaurants for this dish. They’re sister establishments that share a nearly identical menu.
Kanom Jeen is rice noodles served with curry and fresh vegetables, eaten at breakfast and lunch. You’ll see it everywhere, from street stalls to proper restaurants. It’s the kind of dish locals eat daily and that tourists often walk right past without realizing what they’re missing.
Mook Manee in Rawai operates on a “pick and cook” basis: you choose your fresh seafood from the neighboring market stall, bring it to the restaurant, and they prepare it for a small fee on top of the market price. This is how locals eat seafood. Compare that to a beachfront seafood restaurant where you’ll pay three to four times more for lower quality.
Where to eat well without breaking the bank
Lock Tien Food Court in Old Town is cheap and features a rotating lineup of vendors. Go Benz draws queues for its Khao Tom Haeng (dry rice porridge). Tu Kab Khao, also in Old Town, serves crab curry in a colonial building at reasonable prices. Mor Mu Dong is a mangrove-side restaurant, hard to find, that serves some of the spiciest dishes on the island, including a famous stuffed fish.
The golden rule for eating cheaply: move away from the beach. On Patak Road in Karon, the higher you go, the more local the restaurants become. Meals drop from 300-400 baht (about $8-10) to 100-200 baht ($3-5) within a few blocks. Avoid seafood restaurants with fish-on-ice displays and touts pulling you by the arm. These are almost always tourist traps.
The Michelin Bib Gourmand selection for Phuket is actually quite useful here, which is rare for Michelin in Southeast Asia. Most of the recommended spots are genuine local restaurants serving meals under 200 baht. The Chillva Market is the night market that locals actually go to. Less polished than the tourist-oriented ones, but the food is better and cheaper.
For restaurant-by-restaurant recommendations with addresses and price ranges, check out our complete guide to the best places to eat in Phuket.
What to do
Phuket has enough activities to fill two weeks without repeating anything, but some are genuinely worth your time while others are thinly disguised tourist traps. Here’s what deserves your attention.
Culture and sightseeing
The Big Buddha sits atop a hill visible from most of the west coast. This 45-meter white marble statue is technically still under construction (has been for years), but the viewpoint at the top gives a sweeping panorama over Chalong Bay and the surrounding hills. Wear respectful clothing to access the temple. Sarongs are provided at the entrance if you’re in beachwear.
Wat Chalong, the most important temple in Phuket, is just a few minutes’ drive downhill, and the two combine naturally into a half-day trip.
Old Town deserves at least a full afternoon for its Sino-Portuguese architecture and cafe culture.
The Thalang Road area has the finest shophouses, small galleries and independent cafes. If your stay includes a Sunday, the Walking Street (Lard Yai) is the best evening activity on the island. It runs from about 4 PM to 10 PM along Thalang Road. Food stalls, local vendors, live music and a crowd that’s more Thai than foreign. Arrive early for the best selection. By 8 PM, the most popular stalls start running out.
Day trips and island hopping
Phang Nga Bay is home to the limestone karst landscape you’ve seen in photos (and in a James Bond film). Sea canoeing through the caves and hongs is the best way to experience it. Save this trip for an overcast day. Snorkeling trips need sunshine for underwater visibility, but Phang Nga Bay looks spectacular regardless of the light.
The Similan Islands have the clearest water in the region, far better than anything you’ll find off Phuket’s beaches. They’re only open from roughly November to May, and the journey takes about 90 minutes by speedboat from Khao Lak (north of Phuket). If snorkeling or diving is a priority and you’re visiting in season, this trip should be at the top of your list.
The Phi Phi Islands are the most popular day trip from Phuket, and also the most crowded. If you go, hire a private longtail boat from Rawai or Chalong Pier rather than joining a speedboat group tour.
Even better, spend a night there to experience the island after the day-trippers leave. Some travelers skip Phi Phi entirely in favor of Koh Yao Yai, a peaceful island in Phang Nga Bay with virtually no tourist infrastructure.
Nature and wildlife
The Gibbon Rehabilitation Project in the north is a legitimate conservation NGO that rehabilitates gibbons rescued from the tourism industry. It’s one of the few animal attractions on the island that deserves your support. The Phuket Elephant Sanctuary (PES) in Paklok is the gold standard for ethical elephant experiences: observation only, no riding, no bathing, no mud photo ops. Avoid Tiger Kingdom entirely.
The Samet Nangshe Viewpoint is technically across the bridge in Phang Nga Province, but it’s the most beautiful panorama in the region. Go at sunrise. On the island, the Black Rock Viewpoint requires a short scramble but overlooks the southern tip with almost nobody else around, unlike the crowded Promthep Cape just minutes away.
Sports and outdoor activities
Hanuman World offers a zipline course through the canopy if you need a break from the beach. Kayaking through the mangroves at Bang Rong Pier on the east coast is a peaceful activity well worth a morning. Soi Taied (Fitness Street) in Chalong is lined with Muay Thai gyms and has become a destination in its own right for those who want to train while traveling.
For the full list with booking tips, ethical recommendations and day-by-day scheduling suggestions, check out our detailed guide to the 20 must-do activities in Phuket.
Suggested 7-day itinerary
Seven days is a good amount of time for Phuket if you use the island as a base and mix things up. It’s too long if you plan to sit by the same pool all week. Here’s a structure that works well.
Days 1 and 2: Old Town and southern Phuket
Arrive and settle into Old Town or Kata. If you land in the morning, spend the afternoon wandering Old Town, eating at One Chun or Lock Tien Food Court, and getting your bearings. Jet lag works in your favor here: you’ll be up early enough to enjoy the quiet streets before the heat sets in.
On day two, combine Big Buddha and Wat Chalong in the morning (they’re about ten minutes’ drive apart), then head to Nai Harn Beach for the afternoon. If day one or two falls on a Sunday, rearrange your schedule to make Walking Street your evening plan. It’s the one activity most travelers are glad they didn’t miss.
Days 3 and 4: the islands
Hop on the ferry to Koh Phi Phi or Koh Lanta and spend the night. Phi Phi is more of a party scene and good for meeting people. The hostel bar vibe is lively and skews young. Koh Lanta is peaceful and authentic, with long beaches and virtually no nightlife. Either way, staying overnight lets you experience the island once the tour boats have left, and the atmosphere is completely different.
The 600 tourists who arrived by speedboat at 10 AM are gone by 4 PM, and you have the beach to yourself.
If you’d rather skip both, Koh Yao Yai is a 30-minute boat ride from Phuket, with almost nothing but a few resorts and empty beaches. It’s what many consider the best-kept secret in the region. Travel light for this overnight. You can leave your main luggage at your Phuket hotel.
Day 5: Phang Nga Bay
Book a sea canoe tour in Phang Nga Bay. Full-day tours depart around 8 AM and return in the late afternoon. You’ll paddle through sea caves, pass by James Bond Island and float inside collapsed hongs (hidden lagoons open to the sky). It’s one of the most consistently recommended activities in every Phuket discussion thread. Consider a half-day catamaran option if full-day speedboat tours wear you out. The constant engine vibration over eight hours takes more of a toll than you’d expect. Eat light that evening. You won’t have the energy for a long restaurant dinner.
Day 6: wildlife or nature
Visit the Phuket Elephant Sanctuary in the morning. In the afternoon, head up to Samet Nangshe Viewpoint if you haven’t done it at sunrise earlier in the trip, or go kayaking in the mangroves at Bang Rong Pier. Another option: hire a private driver for a temple and viewpoint circuit around the island. For a group, a private driver for the day costs less than four separate Grab rides.
Day 7: beach day
End with a quiet beach. Freedom Beach if you want to earn it with a hike. Yanui if you want something simple and intimate. Ao Sane if you want to snorkel. Skip the big tourist beaches for your last day and find a cove where you can actually hear the water.
Itinerary notes
This schedule works best if you don’t try to lock everything in advance. Book excursions a day or two beforehand so you can check the weather and shift plans if it rains. Full-day tours are physically demanding, so don’t stack two back to back. And don’t plan a big dinner after a full-day excursion. You’ll be sunburned and half asleep by 7 PM.
When to go
Phuket sits on the Andaman coast, which means a rainy season from roughly May to October. The driest and busiest months run from November to April, with December and January being peak season (highest prices, biggest crowds). March and April are hot but less crowded.
The rainy season doesn’t mean non-stop rain. Tropical weather forecasts are notoriously unreliable. Your weather app will show rain icons every day for a week, but in practice you might get a 20-minute afternoon downpour with a clear morning. Don’t cancel a trip over a forecast.
That said, the sea is rougher during the monsoon months and some beaches have strong rip currents. The Similan Islands close entirely from May to October.
One advantage of visiting during the wet season: Phuket handles rain better than most Thai destinations because it’s a large island with shopping malls, cinemas and indoor activities.
Smaller destinations like Krabi practically shut down when it rains. Prices also drop 30 to 50% in low season, and the island is noticeably less crowded. A hotel room at 3,000 baht (about $80) in January might cost you 1,200 baht (about $30) in July.
February is often the sweet spot: dry weather, warm water, and slightly fewer tourists than the December-January peak. If your dates are flexible, aim for late November to February for the best balance of weather and reasonable prices. For travelers flying from Europe or North America, this is also a period when you can find good fares on flights to Phuket, whether direct or with one layover.
Getting around
Transportation is Phuket’s biggest headache and the most common complaint. The island is large (you can’t walk from one beach to another) and public transport is virtually nonexistent. Here’s what actually works.
Ride-hailing apps
Grab, Bolt and InDrive all work in Phuket. Bolt tends to be the cheapest. Even if you don’t plan to use them, install one to check the fare before negotiating with a tuk-tuk driver. Having a price on your phone screen is your best bargaining chip. These apps work 24/7.
Tuk-tuks and taxis
Phuket’s tuk-tuks charge some of the highest rates in Thailand. A short ride that would cost 50-80 baht in Bangkok will run you 400-800 baht here. Always agree on the price before getting in. Never accept a ride from a driver who tells you your hotel is “closed” or “burned down.” That’s a scam to redirect you to a business that pays them a commission.
Phuket Smart Bus
A public bus that runs along the west coast between the main beaches for a flat fare of 100 baht. Useful but limited in terms of routes and frequency. Handy for getting between Kata, Karon, Patong and the airport on a budget.
Scooter rental
Renting a scooter opens up the entire island and many travelers love the freedom. But the risks are real. Phuket’s roads are hilly, sandy in spots, and drivers are unpredictable.
Police checkpoints are frequent, and if you’re stopped without an international driving permit with a motorcycle endorsement, the fine is 500 to 1,000 baht. More importantly, most travel insurance won’t cover motorcycle accidents if you don’t have the proper license. Don’t learn to ride a scooter here for the first time. And never leave your original passport as a deposit. Offer a cash deposit or a photocopy instead.
Airport transfers
The official taxi counter at Phuket Airport charges fixed rates. Expect 800 to 1,000 baht (about $20-25) to reach Kata or Patong. It’s reliable and saves you from negotiating after a long flight.
For detailed transport rates, anti-scam tips, visa information and a full budget breakdown, check out our practical guide to budget, transport and travel essentials.
Budget overview
Phuket is more expensive than most of Thailand but still affordable by Western standards. Here’s a daily estimate for a solo traveler.
Street food meals cost 100 to 200 baht each ($2.50-5). If you eat at restaurants with tablecloths and English menus near the beach, expect 300 to 500 baht per dish ($8-13). A budget traveler eating mostly street food can get by on 700-800 baht per day ($18-20) for food alone.
Transport adds up quickly. If you rely on tuk-tuks, budget an extra 500 to 1,000 baht per day ($13-25). Scooter rental costs 200 to 350 baht per day ($5-9) and pays for itself after the second ride. Grab and Bolt fall somewhere in between.
Accommodation ranges from 300-500 baht ($8-13) for a hostel dorm to 1,500-3,000 baht ($40-80) for a decent mid-range hotel. During peak season (December-January), prices jump 30 to 50%.
Day trips booked locally cost 1,000 to 2,500 baht ($25-65) depending on the destination. The same tours on Viator or TripAdvisor often cost double. Book through street agencies or your hotel reception a day or two in advance.
“Super Cheap” is a local grocery chain where you can stock up on water, snacks and basics at non-tourist prices. 7-Elevens are everywhere and offer surprisingly good toasted sandwiches, iced coffees and cheap meals for days when you don’t feel like sitting down at a restaurant.
Nightlife
Phuket’s nightlife is centered on Patong, specifically along Bangla Road. If you’ve never been, it’s worth experiencing at least once, if only for the spectacle. The sensory overload of neon lights, noise and touts grabbing your arm is an experience in itself. Buy a beer from 7-Eleven and walk through first to get the lay of the land before settling in anywhere.
New York Bar on Bangla Road has live music and a more laid-back vibe than the go-go bars. Illuzion is Patong’s largest nightclub, with professional sound and lighting that wouldn’t be out of place in a European club.
Outside Patong, nightlife takes a completely different form. Catch Beach Club in Bang Tao and Cafe Del Mar in Kamala bring in international DJs and attract an older, wealthier crowd. These are daytime venues that extend into the evening, with pool access, cocktails and music that builds as the sun goes down. In Old Town, it’s more of a cafe and wine bar scene. Everything closes early by Patong standards, but that’s precisely the charm.
Scams to watch out for
Phuket has its share of scams that come up in every travel forum. Knowing about them in advance makes them easy to avoid.
The jet ski scam is the most notorious. You rent a jet ski, return it, and the operator claims you damaged it, demanding thousands of baht (or even dollars) for repairs. The damage was already there. Film the entire jet ski before touching it, or just skip jet skis altogether.
Tuk-tuk overcharging is constant. Always agree on the price before getting in and always check the fare on your ride-hailing app to know what the ride should cost.
The “it’s closed” scam: a tuk-tuk driver tells you your destination is closed today (fire, holiday, construction) and offers to take you somewhere else. That “somewhere else” pays them a commission. Your destination isn’t closed. Decline and find another driver.
Gem shop and tailor scams follow a similar pattern. A friendly “local” tells you about a special sale happening only today and offers to take you there. The shop pays them a commission. You’ll face aggressive sales tactics and leave with overpriced goods.
On Bangla Road, don’t follow touts who promise cheap drinks or special shows. Bar bills of 10,000 to 18,000 baht ($250-450) have been reported at bars with hidden charges.
Phuket as a base or a destination
A useful way to think about Phuket is as a base rather than a single destination. The island has the best flight connections in southern Thailand, good hospitals, reliable internet and a wide range of accommodation at every price point. Use it as an anchor and take day trips or overnighters to Phi Phi, Koh Lanta, Koh Yao Yai, the Similans or Phang Nga Bay.
If Phuket feels too developed for your taste, consider using it as an arrival point before heading to Koh Lanta (quiet, unspoiled) or Krabi (more dramatic natural scenery, with those impressive limestone cliffs that Phuket doesn’t have).
A day trip to Phang Nga Bay gives you access to those karst landscapes without fully leaving Phuket. But for a first trip to southern Thailand, Phuket’s convenience is hard to beat. You can snorkel at the Similans in the morning, have Hokkien Mee in Old Town at noon and watch the sunset from a quiet beach in the south by evening.
How to use these guides
This article gives you the big picture. For the details, each aspect of your trip has its own dedicated guide. If you’re still deciding where to base yourself, check out our neighborhood-by-neighborhood guide to choosing where to stay. For a beach-by-beach ranking with access details and crowd levels, see our complete guide to the 15 most beautiful beaches in Phuket.
Restaurant recommendations with addresses and price ranges are in our complete guide to the best places to eat in Phuket.
Activity details, ethical recommendations and booking tips are in our detailed guide to the 20 must-do activities in Phuket.
And for the practical side of budget, transport, visas and scams to avoid, read our practical guide to budget, transport and travel essentials.
For another must-visit destination in Asia, discover our complete guide to visiting Bali.
The people who love Phuket are the ones who treat the entire island as their playground rather than putting down roots at a single resort. Get out of your neighborhood, eat where the locals eat, and you’ll understand why millions of people come back to this island year after year.
Before or after Phuket, don’t miss Bangkok: check out our complete guide to visiting Bangkok.
To discover Vietnam from Thailand, check out our complete guide to visiting Hanoi
