200gshredded green papayasoaked in ice water for 10–15 minutes to crisp up
2clovesgarlic
a few Thai bird’s-eye chiliesto taste
1.5tablespoonpalm sugar
3yardlong beanscut into 5 cm lengths
3tablespoonsroasted peanuts
1heaping tablespoon small dried shrimproughly chop if they’re large
2tablespoonsfresh lime juice
2teaspoonstamarind juice
1.5tablespoonfish sauce
1small tomato, cut into wedges
Procédé
Peel the green papaya.
Score it lengthwise with a knife.
Slice crosswise to create fine shreds.
Cut the yardlong beans into 5 cm segments.
Drain the soaked papaya thoroughly and spread it in a bowl lined with two layers of paper towel to wick away excess moisture—the drier the papaya, the punchier the dressing.
In a large mortar and pestle, pound the garlic, chilies, and a spoonful of papaya until no large pieces remain.
Add the peanuts and crush them lightly.
Add the tomato wedges and gently bruise them.
Add the palm sugar and pound until it melts into a wet paste and all lumps disappear.
Add the dried shrimp and another spoonful of peanuts and pound just until the nuts crack. Splash in the fish sauce, tamarind juice, and lime juice.
Add the yardlong beans and the remaining papaya; pound just until everything is lightly bruised.
Use a large spoon to toss and make sure the sugar is fully dissolved.
Mix and pound as shown in the video, then garnish with a sprinkle of extra peanuts.
Taste; add a little more papaya or adjust the sugar, fish sauce, and tamarind to balance.
If you don’t have a mortar
Finely mince or grate the garlic, thinly slice the chilies, and place both in a mixing bowl.
Put the palm sugar in a small bowl, add a splash of hot water, and mash with a fork into a syrupy paste.
Stir in the fish sauce, lime juice, and tamarind until the sugar dissolves, then pour the dressing over the garlic and chilies. Give it a good stir so the aromatics perfume the sauce.
Roughly chop half the peanuts and add them to the bowl.
Lightly crack the yardlong beans with something heavy (a bottle, can, or rolling pin) and add them to the bowl.
Add the tomato wedges and press gently to bruise them and release a little juice.
Add the papaya and toss everything together.
Transfer to a serving plate and scatter the remaining peanuts on top.
Video
Notes
I like to buy raw peanuts and roast them myself for deeper flavor. Spread them on a tray and bake at 175 °C / 350 °F for about 15 minutes, stirring halfway, until golden. Cool, then store any extras in the fridge or freezer so they stay fresh.