{"id":146431,"title":"Hanoi’de Ne G\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcr: Eski Mahalle, Tap\u0131naklar ve Ka\u00e7\u0131r\u0131lmamas\u0131 Gereken Yerler","modified":"2026-06-17T21:43:52+02:00","plain":"Hanoi, bin y\u0131ll\u0131k tarihi tek bir g\u00fcnde y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek gezebilece\u011finiz sokaklarda yo\u011funla\u015ft\u0131r\u0131r\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHanoi, G\u00fcneydo\u011fu Asya'n\u0131n kesintisiz olarak ya\u015fanan en eski ba\u015fkentlerinden biridir; 1010 y\u0131l\u0131nda \u0130mparator Ly Thai To'nun saray\u0131n\u0131 K\u0131z\u0131l Nehir k\u0131y\u0131lar\u0131na ta\u015f\u0131mas\u0131yla kurulmu\u015ftur. Bin y\u0131l sonra \u015fehir h\u00e2l\u00e2 ayn\u0131 sokaklar\u0131n b\u00fcy\u00fck bir k\u0131sm\u0131nda, ayn\u0131 g\u00f6llerin \u00e7evresinde ve ayn\u0131 surlar\u0131n i\u00e7inde ya\u015famaya devam ediyor. Bu t\u00fcr bir s\u00fcreklilik d\u00fcnyan\u0131n her yerinde nadirdir; sekiz milyon n\u00fcfuslu, motosikletlerin her kald\u0131r\u0131m\u0131 i\u015fgal etti\u011fi bir metropolde ise \u00e7ok daha nadirdir.\n\n\n\nHanoi'yi b\u00f6lgedeki di\u011fer ba\u015fkentlerden ay\u0131ran \u015fey, miras dokusunun yo\u011funlu\u011fudur. 1070 tarihli bir Konf\u00fc\u00e7y\u00fcs tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131, 1911'de tamamlanm\u0131\u015f bir Frans\u0131z s\u00f6m\u00fcrge operas\u0131ndan on be\u015f dakikal\u0131k y\u00fcr\u00fcme mesafesindedir. Alt\u0131 as\u0131rl\u0131k, h\u00e2l\u00e2 ipek satan bir lonca soka\u011f\u0131, 1960'larda Amerikal\u0131 sava\u015f esirlerinin tutuldu\u011fu bir ara soka\u011f\u0131n hemen yan\u0131ndan ge\u00e7er. Ne arabaya, ne turist otob\u00fcs\u00fcne, hatta ne de bir haritaya ihtiyac\u0131n\u0131z var. \u0130htiyac\u0131n\u0131z olan \u015fey rahat ayakkab\u0131lar, trafi\u011fi a\u015fma cesareti ve \u015fehrin y\u00fcr\u00fcrken kendini a\u00e7\u0131\u011fa \u00e7\u0131karmas\u0131na izin verecek kadar zamand\u0131r.\n\n\n\nBu rehber, Hanoi'nin ger\u00e7ekten zaman\u0131n\u0131z\u0131 hak eden her miras alan\u0131n\u0131 ele al\u0131yor; giri\u015f \u00fccretleri, k\u0131yafet kurallar\u0131, zamanlama ve yolda kar\u015f\u0131la\u015faca\u011f\u0131n\u0131z doland\u0131r\u0131c\u0131l\u0131klardan ka\u00e7\u0131nma konusunda kesin ayr\u0131nt\u0131larla birlikte. U\u00e7u\u015flar, konaklama ve b\u00fct\u00e7e dahil seyahat planlaman\u0131za daha geni\u015f bir bak\u0131\u015f i\u00e7in kapsaml\u0131 Hanoi seyahat rehberimize g\u00f6z at\u0131n.\n\n\n\nEski mahalle: 36 lonca soka\u011f\u0131 ve bin y\u0131ll\u0131k ticaret\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nEski mahalle (Ph\u1ed1 C\u1ed5) Hanoi'nin be\u015fi\u011fidir. 36 soka\u011f\u0131, ba\u015flang\u0131\u00e7ta XIII. y\u00fczy\u0131lda zanaatk\u00e2r loncalar\u0131na g\u00f6re d\u00fczenlenmi\u015fti; her sokak tek bir meslek dal\u0131na ayr\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. H\u00e0ng Gai ipek satard\u0131. H\u00e0ng B\u1ea1c g\u00fcm\u00fc\u015f i\u015flerdi. H\u00e0ng M\u00e3 k\u00e2\u011f\u0131t \u00fcr\u00fcnleri ve t\u00f6ren e\u015fyalar\u0131 \u00fcretirdi.\n\n\n\nBir\u00e7ok sokak h\u00e2l\u00e2 \u00f6zg\u00fcn loncas\u0131n\u0131n ad\u0131n\u0131 ta\u015f\u0131r ve baz\u0131lar\u0131 \u00e7o\u011funlu\u011fu turizme y\u00f6nelmi\u015f olsa da atadan kalma mesle\u011fini h\u00e2l\u00e2 s\u00fcrd\u00fcr\u00fcr. H\u00e0ng Gai h\u00e2l\u00e2 ipek ve \u0131smarlama k\u0131yafetler sunar. H\u00e0ng B\u1ea1c art\u0131k eski kuyumculuk i\u015fine ek olarak tak\u0131 satar. Di\u011ferleri tamamen turist hediyelik e\u015fyalar\u0131na d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr.\n\n\n\nBuradaki ger\u00e7ek deneyim tek bir bina ya da an\u0131tta yatmaz. Sokaklar\u0131n ta kendisidir bu doku: dar, i\u00e7 i\u00e7e ge\u00e7mi\u015f, d\u00fckk\u00e2n vitrinleri ve k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck mihraplarla kapl\u0131, her kald\u0131r\u0131ma motosikletlerin park edildi\u011fi ve yemek tezg\u00e2hlar\u0131n\u0131n yola ta\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131 sokaklar. En iyi yakla\u015f\u0131m, ara sokaklarda (Vietnamca'da \u00ab ng\u00f5 \u00bb denir) bilin\u00e7li olarak kaybolmakt\u0131r. Binalar\u0131n aras\u0131ndaki bu dar ge\u00e7itler, hi\u00e7bir haritada g\u00f6r\u00fcnmeyen beklenmedik kapal\u0131 pazarlara, aile at\u00f6lyelerine ve k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck Budist mabetlerine a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131r.\n\n\n\nSo\u011fukkanl\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z\u0131 yitirmeden kar\u015f\u0131dan kar\u015f\u0131ya nas\u0131l ge\u00e7ilir\n\n\n\nEski mahalledeki trafik, her gezginin ilk s\u00f6z etti\u011fi \u015feydir ve ya\u015fanan kayg\u0131 son derece ger\u00e7ektir. \u00c7ok az trafik \u0131\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 vard\u0131r, motosikletler arabalardan on kat fazlad\u0131r ve ara\u00e7lar, yan yana ancak iki scooter s\u0131\u011fabilecek sokaklarda her y\u00f6ne hareket eder.\n\n\n\n\u0130\u015fe yarayan teknik \u015fudur : durmadan ya da ani hareketler yapmadan, d\u00fczenli ve \u00f6ng\u00f6r\u00fclebilir bir tempoyla ilerleyin. Suyun bir kayan\u0131n etraf\u0131ndan dola\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131 gibi, motosikletler de sizin etraf\u0131n\u0131zdan dola\u015facakt\u0131r. Ko\u015fmay\u0131n, donup kalmay\u0131n ve durmalar\u0131n\u0131 umarak s\u00fcr\u00fcc\u00fclerin g\u00f6z\u00fcne bakmay\u0131n. Durmayacaklar; uyum sa\u011flayacaklar. Tedirginseniz, kar\u015f\u0131ya ge\u00e7en bir yerlinin pe\u015fine tak\u0131l\u0131n ve trafi\u011fe bakan tarafta onun yan\u0131nda kal\u0131n. Elinizi hafif\u00e7e kald\u0131rmak da niyetinizi s\u00fcr\u00fcc\u00fclere belli etmenize yard\u0131mc\u0131 olur.\n\n\n\nParadoksal bi\u00e7imde, yolun kenar\u0131ndan y\u00fcr\u00fcmek \u00e7o\u011fu zaman, genellikle park edilmi\u015f motosikletler, plastik tabureler ve seyyar sat\u0131c\u0131larla dolu olan kald\u0131r\u0131m\u0131 kullanmaktan daha kolayd\u0131r.\n\n\n\nPh\u00f9ng H\u01b0ng duvar resimleri soka\u011f\u0131 ve mahallenin gizli y\u00fcz\u00fc\n\n\n\nPh\u00f9ng H\u01b0ng duvar resimleri soka\u011f\u0131, eski mahallenin bat\u0131 s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131nda, eski demiryolu viyad\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fcn alt\u0131ndaki kemerlerin eski Hanoi sahnelerini betimleyen b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00f6l\u00e7ekli duvar resimleriyle s\u00fcslendi\u011fi yerde bulunur: geleneksel seyyar sat\u0131c\u0131lar, \u00e7ek\u00e7ek, eski tramvay a\u011f\u0131. G\u00fczel bir foto\u011fraf molas\u0131 noktas\u0131d\u0131r ve ana ticaret sokaklar\u0131na g\u00f6re belirgin bi\u00e7imde daha sakin bir yerdir.\n\n\n\nYak\u0131n\u0131nda, Saint-Joseph Katedrali \u00e7evresindeki sokaklar (Nh\u00e0 Th\u1edd ve L\u00fd Qu\u1ed1c S\u01b0 sokaklar\u0131) eski mahallenin en g\u00fczel ortam\u0131n\u0131 sunar; bir bardak tr\u00e0 chanh (taze limonlu buzlu \u00e7ay) e\u015fli\u011finde teras kenar\u0131na oturup ak\u015fam\u0131n kalabal\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 izlemek i\u00e7in. 1886'da in\u015fa edilen ve do\u011frudan Paris'teki Notre-Dame'dan esinlenen katedralin kendisi, neo-gotik mimarinin dikkat \u00e7ekici bir \u00f6rne\u011fidir; tropikal hava ko\u015fullar\u0131yla kararm\u0131\u015f ta\u015f cephesi ona 140 ya\u015f\u0131ndan \u00e7ok daha eski bir patina kazand\u0131r\u0131r. Frans\u0131z gezginler burada anavatan\u0131n katedralleriyle hemen bir aile benzerli\u011fi bulacaklar; tropik iklime ta\u015f\u0131nm\u0131\u015f bir benzerlik.\n\n\n\nGece pazar\u0131 ve hafta sonu yaya sokaklar\u0131\n\n\n\nCuma ak\u015fam\u0131ndan pazar ak\u015fam\u0131na kadar, Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm G\u00f6l\u00fc'n\u00fc \u00e7evreleyen sokaklar trafi\u011fe kapat\u0131l\u0131r ve yayala\u015ft\u0131r\u0131l\u0131r. Eski mahalleyi ke\u015ffetmek i\u00e7in en iyi zamand\u0131r bu. Motosiklet kaosu kaybolur; yerini ailelere, sokak sanat\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131na, geleneksel oyunlara (halat \u00e7ekme, bambu dans\u0131), mini elektrikli arabalar\u0131n direksiyonundaki \u00e7ocuklara ve do\u011fa\u00e7lama sahnelerde s\u00f6ylenen K-pop coverlar\u0131na b\u0131rak\u0131r.\n\n\n\nGece pazar\u0131n\u0131n kendisi \u00e7o\u011funlukla ucuz hediyelik e\u015fya ve giysi satar, ama \u00f6nemli olan al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f de\u011fil, atmosferdir. Hanoi'yi ziyaret eden gezginler, tarihleriniz bir hafta sonuna denk geliyorsa bu deneyimi oybirli\u011fiyle \u00ab ka\u00e7\u0131r\u0131lmamas\u0131 gereken \u00bb bir \u015fey olarak de\u011ferlendiriyor.\n\n\n\nEski mahallede dikkat edilmesi gereken doland\u0131r\u0131c\u0131l\u0131klar\n\n\n\nHanoi'nin eski mahallesi \u015fiddet su\u00e7lar\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan son derece g\u00fcvenlidir, ancak k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck \u00e7apl\u0131 para doland\u0131r\u0131c\u0131l\u0131klar\u0131 yayg\u0131nd\u0131r. En s\u0131k kar\u015f\u0131la\u015f\u0131lan\u0131 \u015fudur : omuz s\u0131r\u0131\u011f\u0131nda sepet ta\u015f\u0131yan kad\u0131nlar, bir \u00ab foto\u011fraf \u00bb i\u00e7in tak\u0131mlar\u0131n\u0131 omuzlar\u0131n\u0131za koyar, ard\u0131ndan 500.000 VND (yakla\u015f\u0131k 18 \u20ac) talep eder.\n\n\n\nAyakkab\u0131 boyac\u0131s\u0131 doland\u0131r\u0131c\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131, siz teras kenar\u0131nda otururken birinin ayakkab\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131z\u0131 i\u015faret etmesi ya da onlara dokunmas\u0131, izin almadan onlar\u0131 temizlemesi veya yap\u0131\u015ft\u0131rmas\u0131, ard\u0131ndan a\u015f\u0131r\u0131 bir mebla\u011f talep etmesinden ibarettir. \u00c7ek\u00e7ek turlar\u0131 i\u00e7in, binmeden \u00f6nce fiyat\u0131 her zaman yaz\u0131l\u0131 olarak kararla\u015ft\u0131r\u0131n; s\u0131f\u0131rlar\u0131n say\u0131s\u0131 \u00fczerine ya\u015fanan \u00ab kar\u0131\u015f\u0131kl\u0131k \u00bb b\u00fcy\u00fck bir klasiktir. Her durumda kararl\u0131 ve kibar bir \u00ab hay\u0131r \u00bb yeterlidir. Pratik \u00f6neriler rehberimiz t\u00fcm yayg\u0131n doland\u0131r\u0131c\u0131l\u0131klar\u0131 ve bunlardan nas\u0131l ka\u00e7\u0131n\u0131laca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 ayr\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131yla anlat\u0131r.\n\n\n\nHo\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm G\u00f6l\u00fc ve Ng\u1ecdc S\u01a1n Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131 : \u015fehrin merkezi\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHo\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm G\u00f6l\u00fc, kuzeydeki eski mahalle ile g\u00fcneydeki Frans\u0131z mahallesi aras\u0131nda yer al\u0131r. Hanoi'nin co\u011frafi ve duygusal merkezidir. Ad\u0131 \u00ab \u0130ade Edilen K\u0131l\u0131\u00e7 G\u00f6l\u00fc \u00bb anlam\u0131na gelir; bir efsaneye g\u00f6re \u0130mparator L\u00ea L\u1ee3i alt\u0131n bir kaplumba\u011fadan sihirli bir k\u0131l\u0131\u00e7 alm\u0131\u015f, XV. y\u00fczy\u0131lda \u00c7inli i\u015fgalcileri p\u00fcsk\u00fcrtmek i\u00e7in bunu kullanm\u0131\u015f, ard\u0131ndan k\u0131l\u0131c\u0131 g\u00f6l\u00fcn sular\u0131nda kaplumba\u011faya geri vermi\u015ftir. G\u00f6l\u00fcn ortas\u0131ndaki k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir adac\u0131kta, her k\u0131y\u0131dan g\u00f6r\u00fclebilen ta\u015ftan bir Kaplumba\u011fa Kulesi y\u00fckselir.\n\n\n\nOraya gitmek i\u00e7in en iyi zaman, sabah\u0131n erken saatleri, 5 . 30 ile 6 . 30 aras\u0131d\u0131r. Y\u00fczlerce yerli, tai-chi, g\u00fclme yogas\u0131, badminton ve grup dans koreografileri i\u00e7in su kenar\u0131ndaki yollar boyunca toplan\u0131r. I\u015f\u0131k yumu\u015fakt\u0131r, hava daha serindir ve \u0131srarc\u0131 sat\u0131c\u0131lar hen\u00fcz ortal\u0131kta yoktur. Bir\u00e7ok gezgin bu sabah an\u0131n\u0131 Hanoi'deki en sevdi\u011fi an\u0131 olarak tan\u0131mlar.\n\n\n\nG\u00fcn bat\u0131m\u0131ndan sonra g\u00f6l ba\u015fkala\u015f\u0131r : Th\u00ea H\u00fac k\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc ve Kaplumba\u011fa Kulesi \u0131\u015f\u0131kland\u0131r\u0131l\u0131r ve sudaki yans\u0131malar, \u00e7evredeki yollar\u0131n her t\u00fcrl\u00fc trafikten ar\u0131nd\u0131r\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 hafta sonu yaya ak\u015famlar\u0131nda \u00f6zellikle \u00e7arp\u0131c\u0131d\u0131r.\n\n\n\nNg\u1ecdc S\u01a1n Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131\n\n\n\nNg\u1ecdc S\u01a1n Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131 (Ye\u015fim Da\u011f\u0131 Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131), Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm G\u00f6l\u00fc'n\u00fcn kuzey ucundaki k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir adac\u0131kta yer al\u0131r ve her Hanoi kartpostal\u0131nda g\u00f6rece\u011finiz simgesel k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 lake ah\u015fap k\u00f6pr\u00fc olan Th\u00ea H\u00fac k\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fcnden eri\u015filir. Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131n kendisi m\u00fctevaz\u0131d\u0131r ve ziyaret yakla\u015f\u0131k otuz dakika s\u00fcrer. \u0130\u00e7erideki ba\u015fyap\u0131t, g\u00f6l\u00fcn k\u0131l\u0131\u00e7 efsanesine ba\u011fl\u0131, tahnit edilmi\u015f dev bir yumu\u015fak kabuklu kaplumba\u011fad\u0131r. Giri\u015f 30.000 VND (yakla\u015f\u0131k 1,10 \u20ac).\n\n\n\nK\u0131yafet kural\u0131 burada zorunludur : omuzlar ve dizler kapal\u0131 olmal\u0131, g\u00f6revliler giri\u015fte denetler. Atletler ve k\u0131sa \u015fortlar size kesin bir ret kazand\u0131r\u0131r. Giri\u015fte bazen \u00f6d\u00fcn\u00e7 pareolar bulunur, ama \u00e7antan\u0131za hafif bir e\u015farp s\u0131k\u0131\u015ft\u0131rmak yine de daha g\u00fcvenlidir. Kalabal\u0131ktan ka\u00e7\u0131nmak i\u00e7in en iyi zaman dilimleri : 8 . 00 civar\u0131, a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131\u015fta veya turist otob\u00fcslerinin var\u0131\u015f saatlerinin d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda, \u00f6\u011fleden sonran\u0131n sonunda.\n\n\n\nHanoi'de yaln\u0131zca tek bir tap\u0131nak se\u00e7mek zorundaysan\u0131z, Ng\u1ecdc S\u01a1n'\u0131 ge\u00e7in ve Edebiyat Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131'na y\u00f6nelin. Ng\u1ecdc S\u01a1n pratiktir (tam merkezde, g\u00f6l kenar\u0131nda) ve eski mahallede bir gezinti s\u0131ras\u0131nda h\u0131zl\u0131 bir mola hak eder, ama Edebiyat Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131 \u00e7ok daha g\u00f6rkemli, \u00e7ok daha tarih y\u00fckl\u00fcd\u00fcr ve kendinize ay\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z bir saatin daha iyi bir de\u011ferlendirmesini olu\u015fturur.\n\n\n\nEdebiyat Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131 : 1070'te kurulan Vietnam'\u0131n ilk \u00fcniversitesi\n\n\n\nEdebiyat Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131 (V\u0103n Mi\u1ebfu), Hanoi'nin en \u00f6nemli tarihi alan\u0131d\u0131r. 1070'te \u0130mparator L\u00fd Th\u00e1nh T\u00f4ng d\u00f6neminde bir Konf\u00fc\u00e7y\u00fcs tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131 olarak in\u015fa edilmi\u015f, daha 1076'da Vietnam'\u0131n ilk \u00fcniversitesi olan \u0130mparatorluk Akademisi'ni (Qu\u1ed1c T\u1eed Gi\u00e1m) a\u011f\u0131rlam\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Yakla\u015f\u0131k yedi y\u00fczy\u0131l boyunca, bilginler buraya okumaya ve imparatorluk s\u0131navlar\u0131na girmeye gelirdi. Kurum, Vietnam devletini y\u00f6neten mandarinleri yeti\u015ftirdi; bilgi yoluyla i\u015fleyen bu liyakat sistemi, Frans\u0131z kamu hizmeti s\u0131navlar\u0131n\u0131 hat\u0131rlatmaktan geri kalmaz.\n\n\n\nKompleks, art arda gelen kap\u0131larla birbirine ba\u011fl\u0131, her biri giderek daha kutsal olan be\u015f duvarl\u0131 avlu halinde d\u00fczenlenmi\u015ftir. \u00dc\u00e7\u00fcnc\u00fc avlu, tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131n en dikkat \u00e7ekici unsurunu bar\u0131nd\u0131r\u0131r : oyma kaplumba\u011falar\u0131n s\u0131rt\u0131na monte edilmi\u015f 82 ta\u015f stel; her biri 1442 ile 1779 aras\u0131nda d\u00fczenlenen s\u0131navlardan mezun olanlar\u0131n adlar\u0131, do\u011fum yerleri ve s\u0131nav sonu\u00e7lar\u0131yla kaz\u0131nm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Bunlar UNESCO D\u00fcnya Belle\u011fi siciline kaydedilmi\u015ftir ve y\u00fczy\u0131llar boyunca Vietnam entelekt\u00fcel s\u0131n\u0131f\u0131n\u0131n var olan en eksiksiz izini olu\u015fturur.\n\n\n\nTarih ve mimari tutkunu gezginler bu alan\u0131 \u00f6zellikle takdir eder. Avlular huzurludur, as\u0131rl\u0131k a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131n g\u00f6lgesindedir ve mimari, \u00c7in etkisinden ziyade belirgin bi\u00e7imde Vietnam'a \u00f6zg\u00fcd\u00fcr; bu da klasik bir Do\u011fu Asya tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131 d\u00fczenlemesi bekleyen bir\u00e7ok ziyaret\u00e7iyi \u015fa\u015f\u0131rt\u0131r.\n\n\n\nBuna kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131k, oraya ba\u011flam olmadan giden gezginler bazen buray\u0131 hayal k\u0131r\u0131kl\u0131\u011f\u0131 verici bulur. Stellerin ne anlama geldi\u011fini ya da avlular\u0131n neden b\u00f6yle d\u00fczenlendi\u011fini bilmeden, alan bir dizi bo\u015f ta\u015f mek\u00e2ndan ibaret gibi g\u00f6r\u00fcnebilir. \u00c7\u00f6z\u00fcm basittir : ziyaretten \u00f6nce bilgi edinin ya da giri\u015fte sunulan sesli rehberi al\u0131n.\n\n\n\nPratik bilgiler\n\n\n\nGiri\u015f 30.000 VND (yakla\u015f\u0131k 1,10 \u20ac). Turist otob\u00fcslerini ve okul gruplar\u0131n\u0131 geride b\u0131rakmak i\u00e7in a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131\u015fta, 8 . 00'de gelin. Mezuniyet t\u00f6reni mevsiminde (may\u0131stan temmuza), avlular kep ve c\u00fcppeleriyle foto\u011fraf i\u00e7in poz veren Vietnaml\u0131 \u00f6\u011frencilerle dolar; bu enerji katar ama dinginlik atmosferini bozar.\n\n\n\nZiyaret i\u00e7in 45 ila 60 dakika hesaplay\u0131n. Tap\u0131nak, Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm G\u00f6l\u00fc'n\u00fcn g\u00fcneybat\u0131s\u0131nda yakla\u015f\u0131k yirmi dakikal\u0131k y\u00fcr\u00fcme mesafesinde ya da k\u0131sa bir taksi yolculu\u011fu uzakl\u0131\u011f\u0131ndad\u0131r.\n\n\n\nS\u0131nanm\u0131\u015f bir sabah rotas\u0131, Edebiyat Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131'n\u0131 H\u1ed3 Ch\u00ed Minh mozolesi kompleksiyle birle\u015ftirir; \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc her ikisi de \u015fehrin bat\u0131 taraf\u0131nda, eski mahalleden uzakta yer al\u0131r. Mozoleyle erken ba\u015flay\u0131n (8 . 00'den \u00f6nce), Tek S\u00fctunlu Pagoda ile (birka\u00e7 ad\u0131m \u00f6tede) devam edin, ard\u0131ndan Edebiyat Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131'na kadar s\u00fcrd\u00fcr\u00fcn. \u00dc\u00e7 alan\u0131n tamam\u0131n\u0131 tek bir sabahta gezebilirsiniz.\n\n\n\nH\u1ed3 Ch\u00ed Minh mozolesi kompleksi : mozole, kaz\u0131kl\u0131 ev ve Tek S\u00fctunlu Pagoda\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nH\u1ed3 Ch\u00ed Minh mozolesi, Ba \u0110\u00ecnh Meydan\u0131'na h\u00e2kim, granit ve mermerden g\u00f6rkemli bir yap\u0131d\u0131r; H\u1ed3 Ch\u00ed Minh'in 2 Eyl\u00fcl 1945'te Vietnam'\u0131n ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 ilan etti\u011fi yerin ta kendisinde. \u0130\u00e7eride, ulusun kurucusunun mumyalanm\u0131\u015f bedeni, lo\u015f bir ayd\u0131nlatma alt\u0131nda cam bir tabutta dinlenir. T\u00fcm deneyim ancak be\u015f ila on dakika s\u00fcrer : muhaf\u0131zlar\u0131n \u00e7evreledi\u011fi \u00e7ift s\u0131ra halinde, mutlak bir sessizlik i\u00e7inde ge\u00e7ip gidersiniz.\n\n\n\nG\u00f6r\u00fc\u015fler b\u00f6l\u00fcnm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr. Baz\u0131 gezginler ziyareti d\u00fcnyada e\u015fi benzeri olmayan bir deneyim olarak g\u00f6r\u00fcr; mumyalanm\u0131\u015f bir ulusal liderin g\u00f6r\u00fclebilece\u011fi nadir yerlerden biri (di\u011ferleri Moskova'da Lenin, Pekin'de Mao ve Pyongyang'da Kim Il-sung'dur). Di\u011ferleri deneyimi keskin bir c\u00fcmleyle \u00f6zetler : \u00ab bir dakika boyunca iyi korunmu\u015f bir \u00f6l\u00fc \u00bb ve bu zaman\u0131 ba\u015fka bir \u015feye ay\u0131rmay\u0131 tercih eder. Mumyalanm\u0131\u015f bedeni g\u00f6rmek sizi rahats\u0131z ediyorsa, mozolenin d\u0131\u015f\u0131 ve Ba \u0110\u00ecnh Meydan\u0131'ndaki n\u00f6bet de\u011fi\u015fimi kendi ba\u015flar\u0131na g\u00f6r\u00fclmeye de\u011ferdir ve hi\u00e7bir kuyruk gerektirmez.\n\n\n\nGiri\u015fte geri \u00e7evrilmenize neden olacak kat\u0131 kurallar\n\n\n\nK\u0131yafet kural\u0131 hi\u00e7bir istisna olmadan uygulan\u0131r. Bacaklar ve omuzlar kapal\u0131 olmal\u0131d\u0131r. \u015eortlar, atletler ve k\u0131sa etekler size giri\u015fte kesin bir ret kazand\u0131r\u0131r. K\u0131yafetin \u00f6tesinde, \u00e7ift s\u0131ra halinde y\u00fcr\u00fcmeniz, \u015fapka ve g\u00fcne\u015f g\u00f6zl\u00fcklerini \u00e7\u0131karman\u0131z, ellerinizi ceplerinizden uzak tutman\u0131z ve tam bir sessizli\u011fe uyman\u0131z gerekir.\n\n\n\n\u00c7antalar ve foto\u011fraf makineleri girmeden \u00f6nce emanete b\u0131rak\u0131lmal\u0131d\u0131r. En ufak bir ta\u015fk\u0131nl\u0131kta muhaf\u0131zlar sizi hemen d\u00fczene \u00e7a\u011f\u0131racakt\u0131r. Vietnam devleti bu ziyareti vakur, neredeyse din\u00ee bir deneyim olarak ele al\u0131r.\n\n\n\nErken gelin. 9 . 00'den \u00f6nce gidin ya da hi\u00e7bir g\u00f6lge olmadan, tam g\u00fcne\u015fin alt\u0131nda uzun bir kuyru\u011fa haz\u0131rlan\u0131n. Mozole pazartesi ve cuma g\u00fcnleri kapal\u0131d\u0131r. Ayr\u0131ca her y\u0131l birka\u00e7 hafta boyunca (genellikle ekimden kas\u0131ma) bedene koruyucu bak\u0131m yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131nda da kapan\u0131r.\n\n\n\nGiri\u015f \u00fccretsizdir. Alan\u0131n \u00e7evresinde \u00ab bilet \u00bb satan kimseye para \u00f6demeyin : bu bir doland\u0131r\u0131c\u0131l\u0131kt\u0131r.\n\n\n\nKaz\u0131kl\u0131 ev ve Tek S\u00fctunlu Pagoda\n\n\n\nMozolenin \u00e7evresindeki bah\u00e7eler, bir\u00e7ok gezginin mozolenin kendisinden daha ilgin\u00e7 buldu\u011fu iki alan\u0131 bar\u0131nd\u0131r\u0131r. Ba\u015fkanl\u0131k saray\u0131n\u0131n kaz\u0131kl\u0131 evi, H\u1ed3 Ch\u00ed Minh'in ger\u00e7ekten ya\u015fay\u0131p \u00e7al\u0131\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131 yerdir; kom\u015fusu g\u00f6rkemli Frans\u0131z s\u00f6m\u00fcrge ba\u015fkanl\u0131k saray\u0131 yerine, bir sazan g\u00f6letinin kenar\u0131ndaki kaz\u0131klar \u00fczerinde m\u00fctevaz\u0131 ah\u015fap bir konutu tercih etmi\u015ftir.\n\n\n\nS\u00fcsl\u00fc saray — \u00c7inhindi genel valisi i\u00e7in in\u015fa edilmi\u015f — ile yal\u0131n kaz\u0131kl\u0131 ev aras\u0131ndaki tezat, ziyaretin temel noktas\u0131d\u0131r ve ger\u00e7ekten \u00e7arp\u0131c\u0131d\u0131r. Frans\u0131z ziyaret\u00e7iler, s\u00f6m\u00fcrge g\u00f6steri\u015fi ile g\u00f6n\u00fcll\u00fc sadelik aras\u0131ndaki bu mimari y\u00fczle\u015fmeyi \u00f6zellikle takdir edecekler.\n\n\n\nBa\u015flang\u0131\u00e7ta 1049'da yap\u0131lan Tek S\u00fctunlu Pagoda (Ch\u00f9a M\u1ed9t C\u1ed9t), bir lotus havuzundan y\u00fckselen tek bir ta\u015f s\u00fctunun \u00fczerine t\u00fcnemi\u015f k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir ah\u015fap pagodad\u0131r. Sudan y\u00fckselen bir lotus \u00e7i\u00e7e\u011fini \u00e7a\u011fr\u0131\u015ft\u0131rmak i\u00e7in tasarlanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Bug\u00fcnk\u00fc yap\u0131 1954 tarihli bir yeniden in\u015fad\u0131r : Frans\u0131z birlikleri \u00c7inhindi'nden \u00e7ekilirken \u00f6zg\u00fcn yap\u0131y\u0131 tahrip etti ve bu davran\u0131\u015f Hanoililer i\u00e7in h\u00e2l\u00e2 ac\u0131 bir an\u0131 olarak kal\u0131r.\n\n\n\nYine de tasar\u0131m, tarih\u00ee betimlemelere sad\u0131kt\u0131r ve alan, ba\u015fkentin en \u00e7ok foto\u011fraflanan an\u0131tlar\u0131ndan biri olmaya devam eder. Kaz\u0131kl\u0131 ev ve pagoda, mozoleden birka\u00e7 ad\u0131m \u00f6tededir ve ziyaretinize yakla\u015f\u0131k otuz dakika ekler.\n\n\n\nTr\u1ea5n Qu\u1ed1c Pagodas\u0131 : Hanoi'nin en eski Budist tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131\n\n\n\nTr\u1ea5n Qu\u1ed1c Pagodas\u0131, eski mahallenin yakla\u015f\u0131k iki kilometre kuzeyindeki Bat\u0131 G\u00f6l\u00fc'ne (H\u1ed3 T\u00e2y) uzanan k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir yar\u0131madada y\u00fckselir. VI. y\u00fczy\u0131lda kurulmu\u015f, yakla\u015f\u0131k 1.500 y\u0131ll\u0131k bir ge\u00e7mi\u015f sergiler; bu da onu Hanoi'nin en eski Budist tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131 yapar. Ana yap\u0131, \u00f6len rahiplerin k\u00fcllerini bar\u0131nd\u0131ran bir stupa bah\u00e7esinin ortas\u0131nda y\u00fckselen on bir katl\u0131 bir kuledir; ayr\u0131ca, Buda'n\u0131n ayd\u0131nlanmaya eri\u015fti\u011fi, Hindistan'daki Bodh Gaya'daki \u00f6zg\u00fcn a\u011fac\u0131n bir \u00e7eli\u011finden yeti\u015ftirildi\u011fi s\u00f6ylenen bir Bodhi a\u011fac\u0131 bulunur.\n\n\n\nTr\u1ea5n Qu\u1ed1c'u bu kadar e\u015fsiz k\u0131lan, \u00e7evresidir. Bat\u0131 G\u00f6l\u00fc, Hanoi'nin en geni\u015f su k\u00fctlesidir ve neredeyse tamamen sularla \u00e7evrili olan pagoda, her y\u00f6ne g\u00f6l manzaralar\u0131 sunar. \u00d6\u011fleden sonran\u0131n sonundaki \u0131\u015f\u0131k foto\u011fraf\u00e7\u0131l\u0131k i\u00e7in \u00f6zellikle elveri\u015flidir.\n\n\n\nGiri\u015f \u00fccretsizdir, ancak pagoda baz\u0131 din\u00ee t\u00f6renler s\u0131ras\u0131nda kapan\u0131r. M\u00fctevaz\u0131 k\u0131yafet gereklidir (omuzlar ve dizler kapal\u0131). Bat\u0131 G\u00f6l\u00fc k\u0131y\u0131lar\u0131 boyunca bir y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f ya da bisiklet turuyla birle\u015ftirildi\u011finde, bu ziyaret eski mahallenin yo\u011funlu\u011fundan uzakta, beklenen bir gev\u015feme yar\u0131m g\u00fcn\u00fc olu\u015fturur.\n\n\n\nHoa Lo Hapishanesi : \u00ab Hanoi Hilton \u00bb ve birbirinden \u00e7ok farkl\u0131 iki anlat\u0131s\u0131\n\n\n\nHoa Lo Hapishanesi, Hanoi'nin entelekt\u00fcel a\u00e7\u0131dan en uyar\u0131c\u0131 alan\u0131d\u0131r. 1896'da Frans\u0131z s\u00f6m\u00fcrge y\u00f6netimi taraf\u0131ndan in\u015fa edilmi\u015f, Vietnaml\u0131 siyasi tutuklular\u0131, sergilerin hi\u00e7 s\u00fcslemeden betimledi\u011fi ko\u015fullarda tutmaya hizmet ediyordu : giyotin, ayak prangalar\u0131, dar toplu h\u00fccreler ve infaz odas\u0131. S\u00f6m\u00fcrge d\u00f6nemine ayr\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bu b\u00f6l\u00fcm, bir Frans\u0131z ziyaret\u00e7i i\u00e7in ku\u015fkusuz en etkileyici olan\u0131d\u0131r : bulvarlar\u0131n ve villalar\u0131n romantik imgesinden uzakta, \u00c7inhindi'ndeki Frans\u0131z varl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n karanl\u0131k y\u00fcz\u00fcyle do\u011frudan y\u00fczle\u015ftirir.\n\n\n\nVietnam Sava\u015f\u0131 s\u0131ras\u0131nda, ayn\u0131 hapishane, be\u015f bu\u00e7uk y\u0131l\u0131n\u0131 orada ge\u00e7iren Senat\u00f6r John McCain dahil Amerikal\u0131 sava\u015f esirlerini tuttu. Amerikal\u0131 mahk\u00fbmlar buraya \u00ab Hanoi Hilton \u00bb lakab\u0131n\u0131 takt\u0131.\n\n\n\nBu alan\u0131n temel ilgi \u00e7ekicili\u011fi yaln\u0131zca tarihte de\u011fil, tarihin sunulu\u015f bi\u00e7iminde yatar. Frans\u0131z s\u00f6m\u00fcrge d\u00f6nemine ili\u015fkin b\u00f6l\u00fcmler ac\u0131mas\u0131z ve titizdir; zincire vurulmu\u015f mahk\u00fbmlar\u0131 g\u00f6steren ger\u00e7ek boyutta dioramalar ve i\u015fkence y\u00f6ntemlerinin ayr\u0131nt\u0131l\u0131 betimlemeleriyle.\n\n\n\nAmerikal\u0131 sava\u015f esirlerine ayr\u0131lm\u0131\u015f b\u00f6l\u00fcm ise voleybol oynayan, Noel a\u011fac\u0131 s\u00fcsleyen ve t\u0131bbi bak\u0131m g\u00f6ren mahk\u00fbmlar\u0131n foto\u011fraflar\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6sterir. Bu iki temsil aras\u0131ndaki fark tamamen kas\u0131tl\u0131d\u0131r ve bunu alg\u0131lamak t\u00fcm deneyimi olu\u015fturur. Bir gezgin bunu isabetle \u00f6zetlemi\u015f : \u00ab Tarafs\u0131z bir tarih umarak gitmeyin. Tarihin nas\u0131l anlat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6rmek i\u00e7in gidin. Propaganda, serginin kendisidir. \u00bb\n\n\n\nPratik bilgiler\n\n\n\nGiri\u015f 30.000 VND (yakla\u015f\u0131k 1,10 \u20ac). Sesli rehber ek olarak 50.000 ila 70.000 VND (1,80 ila 2,50 \u20ac) tutar ve neredeyse vazge\u00e7ilmezdir. Onsuz, tabelalar yetersizdir ve her odan\u0131n duygusal a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 ve tarih\u00ee ba\u011flam\u0131n\u0131 ka\u00e7\u0131r\u0131rs\u0131n\u0131z.\n\n\n\n1 . 30 ila 2 saat ay\u0131r\u0131n. Frans\u0131z d\u00f6nemine ait sergiler, baz\u0131 ziyaret\u00e7ilerin sars\u0131c\u0131 buldu\u011fu, \u00e7arp\u0131c\u0131 i\u015fkence ve infaz tasvirleri i\u00e7erir. Hapishane, H\u1ecfa L\u00f2 soka\u011f\u0131nda, Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm G\u00f6l\u00fc'n\u00fcn birka\u00e7 dakika g\u00fcneyinde y\u00fcr\u00fcme mesafesinde bulunur ve eski mahalleyi ke\u015fif g\u00fcn\u00fcne do\u011fal olarak uyar.\n\n\n\nFrans\u0131z mahallesi : geni\u015f bulvarlar \u00fczerinde s\u00f6m\u00fcrge mimarisi\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHanoi, 1902'den 1954'e kadar Frans\u0131z \u00c7inhindi'nin ba\u015fkenti oldu ve Frans\u0131zlar, Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm G\u00f6l\u00fc'n\u00fcn g\u00fcney ve do\u011fusunda ba\u015ftan ba\u015fa bir Avrupa mimarisi mahallesi b\u0131rakt\u0131. Bir Frans\u0131z gezgin i\u00e7in, Hanoi'nin Frans\u0131z mahallesi tuhaf bir d\u00e9j\u00e0-vu hissi uyand\u0131r\u0131r : oranlar, malzemeler, panjurlu kepenkler hemen ta\u015fra sokaklar\u0131n\u0131 an\u0131msat\u0131r, ama tropik bir g\u00f6ky\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fcn alt\u0131na ta\u015f\u0131nm\u0131\u015f ve g\u00fcr bitki \u00f6rt\u00fcs\u00fcn\u00fcn i\u00e7ine g\u00f6m\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f olarak.\n\n\n\nBu mahalle her bak\u0131mdan eski mahallenin tam kar\u015f\u0131t\u0131d\u0131r : dolamba\u00e7l\u0131 ara sokaklar yerine a\u011fa\u00e7l\u0131 geni\u015f bulvarlar, t\u00fcp evler yerine b\u00fcy\u00fck sar\u0131 villalar ve motosikletleri savu\u015fturmak zorunda kalmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z ger\u00e7ek, y\u00fcr\u00fcnebilir kald\u0131r\u0131mlar.\n\n\n\nHanoi Operas\u0131\n\n\n\n1911'de tamamlanan Hanoi Operas\u0131, Frans\u0131z mahallesinin mimari ba\u015fyap\u0131t\u0131d\u0131r. Do\u011frudan Paris'teki Palais Garnier'den esinlenen yap\u0131, k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir esplanade kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda, Tr\u00e0ng Ti\u1ec1n soka\u011f\u0131n\u0131n ucunda y\u00fckselir.\n\n\n\n\u0130\u00e7 mek\u00e2n\u0131 yaln\u0131zca bir g\u00f6steri bileti sat\u0131n alarak ziyaret edebilirsiniz, ama d\u0131\u015f cephe tek ba\u015f\u0131na bir molay\u0131 hak eder, \u00f6zellikle alt\u0131n saatte, e\u011fik \u0131\u015f\u0131k krem rengi cepheyi ok\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131nda. \u0130\u00e7 mek\u00e2n\u0131 ke\u015ffetmek isterseniz, bu tarih\u00ee salonda Vietnaml\u0131 akrobatlar\u0131n seslendirdi\u011fi bir bambu sirk g\u00f6sterisi olan \u00ab L\u00e0ng T\u00f4i \u00bb (K\u00f6y\u00fcm) hakk\u0131nda bilgi al\u0131n. Temsiller haftada birka\u00e7 kez ger\u00e7ekle\u015fir ve biletler \u00e7evrimi\u00e7i mevcuttur.\n\n\n\nSofitel Legend Metropole\n\n\n\n1901'de a\u00e7\u0131lan Sofitel Legend Metropole, Hanoi'nin en \u00fcnl\u00fc oteli ve ba\u015fl\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131na bir mimari an\u0131tt\u0131r. Ye\u015fil panjurlu beyaz s\u00f6m\u00fcrge binas\u0131, sizi an\u0131nda ba\u015fka bir \u00e7a\u011fa ta\u015f\u0131r. M\u00fc\u015fteri olmadan lobiye girebilir ya da kald\u0131r\u0131m kenar\u0131ndaki kafe olan La Terrasse'a yerle\u015fip, l\u00fcks versiyonuyla Frans\u0131z \u00c7inhindi fiyatlar\u0131na bir espresso i\u00e7ebilirsiniz (bir i\u00e7ecek i\u00e7in 150.000 ila 200.000 VND, yani yakla\u015f\u0131k 5,50 ila 7,30 \u20ac hesaplay\u0131n). Otel ayr\u0131ca, 2011'deki tadilatlar s\u0131ras\u0131nda ke\u015ffedilen ve zaman zaman rehberli turlar i\u00e7in a\u00e7t\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir s\u0131\u011f\u0131na\u011f\u0131 bodrumunda bar\u0131nd\u0131r\u0131r.\n\n\n\nFrans\u0131z mahallesinden ge\u00e7en bir y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f rotas\u0131\n\n\n\nOpera ile ba\u015flay\u0131n, ard\u0131ndan en g\u00f6rkemli iki s\u00f6m\u00fcrge bulvar\u0131 olan Ng\u00f4 Quy\u1ec1n ve L\u00fd Th\u00e1i T\u1ed5 sokaklar\u0131 boyunca ilerleyin. Kom\u015fu sokaklar, restore edilmi\u015f villalara yerle\u015fmi\u015f el\u00e7ilikler ve h\u00fck\u00fcmet binalar\u0131 bar\u0131nd\u0131r\u0131r. Eski mahallenin s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131ndaki Saint-Joseph Katedrali'ne kadar devam edin, ard\u0131ndan Tr\u00e0ng Ti\u1ec1n soka\u011f\u0131nda, \u00fcnl\u00fc Tr\u00e0ng Ti\u1ec1n dondurmas\u0131 (kem Tr\u00e0ng Ti\u1ec1n) i\u00e7in zorunlu bir mola vererek bitirin; 1958'den beri varl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00fcrd\u00fcren ve k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir soka\u011fa bakan gi\u015feden yap\u0131\u015fkan pirin\u00e7li dondurma satan bir Hanoi kurumudur. T\u00fcm y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f, gezgin temposunda yakla\u015f\u0131k bir saat s\u00fcrer.\n\n\n\nFrans\u0131z mahallesinin mimarisi, Phnom Penh, H\u00f4 Chi Minh Kenti ya da Pondicherry gibi s\u00f6m\u00fcrgele\u015ftirmenin damgas\u0131n\u0131 ta\u015f\u0131yan ba\u015fka \u015fehirleri ar\u015f\u0131nlam\u0131\u015f herkese hemen seslenecektir. \u00ab \u00c7inhindi tarz\u0131 \u00bb denen \u00fcslup — Frans\u0131z neo-klasik mimarisinin, panjurlu kepenkler, derin verandalar ve havan\u0131n dola\u015f\u0131m\u0131n\u0131 kolayla\u015ft\u0131ran y\u00fcksek tavanlar gibi yerel ve tropik uyarlamalarla birle\u015fmesi — burada ola\u011fan\u00fcst\u00fc bir yo\u011funluktad\u0131r. Operan\u0131n iki ad\u0131m \u00f6tesindeki Ulusal Tarih M\u00fczesi binas\u0131, bunun en g\u00fczel \u00f6rneklerinden biridir.\n\n\n\nVietnam Etnoloji M\u00fczesi : Hanoi'nin en iyi m\u00fczesi\n\n\n\nVietnam Etnoloji M\u00fczesi, eski mahallenin yakla\u015f\u0131k yedi kilometre bat\u0131s\u0131nda yer al\u0131r; bir taksi gerektirecek kadar uzakta (merkezden 80.000 ila 100.000 VND, yani 3 ila 3,60 \u20ac hesaplay\u0131n). D\u00fczenli olarak Hanoi'nin en iyi m\u00fczesi ve G\u00fcneydo\u011fu Asya'n\u0131n en iyilerinden biri olarak s\u0131ralanan m\u00fcze, Vietnam'\u0131n tan\u0131nan 54 etnik grubunun k\u00fclt\u00fcrlerini, geleneklerini ve g\u00fcnl\u00fck ya\u015fam bi\u00e7imlerini ger\u00e7ek boyutlu geleneksel ev rekonstr\u00fcksiyonlar\u0131, ayr\u0131nt\u0131l\u0131 tekstil sunumlar\u0131, t\u00f6ren e\u015fyalar\u0131 ve belgesel videolar arac\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131yla belgeler.\n\n\n\nA\u00e7\u0131k hava b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc, ziyaretin can al\u0131c\u0131 noktas\u0131n\u0131 olu\u015fturur. Vietnam'\u0131n her yerindeki etnik gruplardan ger\u00e7ek boyutlu geleneksel evler m\u00fczenin arazisinde yeniden in\u015fa edilmi\u015ftir : ba\u015f d\u00f6nd\u00fcr\u00fcc\u00fc sazdan \u00e7at\u0131s\u0131yla bir Bahnar toplum evi (r\u00f4ng), bir T\u00e0y kaz\u0131kl\u0131 evi, bir \u00cad\u00ea uzun evi ve daha pek \u00e7o\u011fu. Bunlar\u0131n \u00e7o\u011funa girebilirsiniz.\n\n\n\n\u0130\u00e7 galeriler, hem da\u011fl\u0131k yaylalardaki hem de ovalardaki halklar\u0131n evlilik geleneklerini, cenaze adetlerini, tar\u0131m uygulamalar\u0131n\u0131 ve maddi k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc kapsar. \u0130\u00e7 ve d\u0131\u015f b\u00f6l\u00fcmleri acele etmeden gezmek istiyorsan\u0131z iki ila \u00fc\u00e7 saat ay\u0131r\u0131n.\n\n\n\nGiri\u015f 40.000 VND (yakla\u015f\u0131k 1,45 \u20ac). M\u00fcze pazartesi g\u00fcnleri kapal\u0131d\u0131r. Buras\u0131, aceleden \u00e7ok aylak aylak gezinmeyi \u00f6d\u00fcllendiren t\u00fcrden bir yerdir ve kom\u015fu Bat\u0131 G\u00f6l\u00fc'nde ve Tr\u1ea5n Qu\u1ed1c Pagodas\u0131'nda ge\u00e7irilecek bir \u00f6\u011fleden sonrayla m\u00fckemmel bi\u00e7imde birle\u015fir. Bangkok'un b\u00fcy\u00fck tap\u0131naklar\u0131 gibi G\u00fcneydo\u011fu Asya'n\u0131n ba\u015fka \u00fclkelerinde tap\u0131naklar ziyaret ettiyseniz, Etnoloji M\u00fczesi'nin Vietnam k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcne, din\u00ee mimarinin \u00e7ok \u00f6tesinde, k\u00f6kten farkl\u0131 bir bak\u0131\u015f a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131 sunma bi\u00e7imini takdir edeceksiniz.\n\n\n\nBir u\u011frak de\u011ferinde, az bilinen yerler\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nLong Bi\u00ean k\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc\n\n\n\nLong Bi\u00ean k\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc, eski mahallenin yakla\u015f\u0131k bir kilometre kuzeyinde K\u0131z\u0131l Nehir'i a\u015far. Dayd\u00e9 & Pill\u00e9 at\u00f6lyeleri taraf\u0131ndan tasarlanm\u0131\u015f (genellikle Gustave Eiffel'in \u015firketine atfedilir, ancak kesin yap\u0131m sorumlulu\u011fu tarih\u00e7iler aras\u0131nda tart\u0131\u015fma konusudur) ve Frans\u0131z s\u00f6m\u00fcrge y\u00f6netimi ad\u0131na 1903'te tamamlanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.\n\n\n\nK\u00f6pr\u00fc Vietnam Sava\u015f\u0131 s\u0131ras\u0131nda defalarca bombaland\u0131 ve her seferinde yeniden in\u015fa edildi; bu da ona \u00f6zg\u00fcn per\u00e7inli \u00e7elik ile daha yeni beton onar\u0131mlar\u0131 harmanlayan o uyumsuz sil\u00fceti kazand\u0131r\u0131r. \u00dczerinden y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek ge\u00e7ebilirsiniz ve ortas\u0131ndan g\u00f6r\u00fclen manzaralar \u00e7arp\u0131c\u0131d\u0131r : a\u015fa\u011f\u0131da K\u0131z\u0131l Nehir, kar\u015f\u0131 k\u0131y\u0131da muz a\u011fac\u0131 plantasyonlar\u0131 ve ara s\u0131ra geriye kalan tek demiryolu hatt\u0131n\u0131 a\u015fan bir tren. G\u00fcn bat\u0131m\u0131 en uygun and\u0131r.\n\n\n\nB-52 G\u00f6l\u00fc (H\u1eefu Ti\u1ec7p G\u00f6l\u00fc)\n\n\n\nEski mahallenin yakla\u015f\u0131k iki kilometre bat\u0131s\u0131ndaki k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir yerle\u015fim mahallesinde, bir Amerikan B-52 bombard\u0131man u\u00e7a\u011f\u0131n\u0131n enkaz\u0131, 1972'deki Noel bombard\u0131manlar\u0131 s\u0131ras\u0131nda d\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc\u011f\u00fc k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir g\u00f6lde h\u00e2l\u00e2 duruyor. G\u00f6l minicik, s\u0131radan evlerle \u00e7evrili ve g\u00f6vdenin b\u00fck\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f saclar\u0131 ile kanat b\u00f6l\u00fcmleri, tam yar\u0131m y\u00fczy\u0131ldan fazla \u00f6nce d\u00fc\u015ft\u00fckleri yerde duruyor.\n\n\n\nM\u00fcze yok, gi\u015fe yok, m\u00fctevaz\u0131 bir anma plaketinin \u00f6tesinde i\u015faret yok. Yaln\u0131zca bir mahalle g\u00f6letinin kenar\u0131nda durur ve \u00e7evrenizde g\u00fcnl\u00fck hayat s\u00fcrerken enkaz\u0131 seyredersiniz. Alan \u00fccretsiz, her saat eri\u015filebilir ve ger\u00e7ekten s\u00fcrrealdir. Ho\u00e0ng Hoa Th\u00e1m soka\u011f\u0131nda, Ng\u1ecdc H\u00e0 soka\u011f\u0131yla kesi\u015fti\u011fi yerin yak\u0131n\u0131nda bulunur.\n\n\n\nQu\u00e1n Th\u00e1nh Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131\n\n\n\nQu\u00e1n Th\u00e1nh Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131, Bat\u0131 G\u00f6l\u00fc'n\u00fcn g\u00fcney k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda, Tr\u1ea5n Qu\u1ed1c Pagodas\u0131'n\u0131n yak\u0131n\u0131nda yer alan bir Taocu tap\u0131nakt\u0131r. L\u00fd hanedan\u0131 d\u00f6neminde (XI. y\u00fczy\u0131l) in\u015fa edilmi\u015f olup, 1677'de d\u00f6k\u00fclen ve yakla\u015f\u0131k d\u00f6rt ton a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131\u011f\u0131ndaki, kuzeyin Taocu tanr\u0131s\u0131 Tr\u1ea5n V\u0169'yu temsil eden, d\u00f6rt metreye yak\u0131n y\u00fckseklikte bir bronz heykel bar\u0131nd\u0131r\u0131r. Bu heykel, Vietnam'\u0131n en g\u00fczel bronz d\u00f6k\u00fcmleri aras\u0131nda say\u0131l\u0131r.\n\n\n\nTap\u0131nak, b\u00fcy\u00fck alanlardan \u00e7ok daha az ziyaret\u00e7i a\u011f\u0131rlar ve giri\u015f yaln\u0131zca 10.000 VND (yakla\u015f\u0131k 0,36 \u20ac) tutar. Sakin bir \u00f6\u011fleden sonra i\u00e7in onu Tr\u1ea5n Qu\u1ed1c Pagodas\u0131 ve Bat\u0131 G\u00f6l\u00fc k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda bir y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fle birle\u015ftirin.\n\n\n\n\u0110\u1ed3ng Xu\u00e2n Pazar\u0131\n\n\n\n\u0110\u1ed3ng Xu\u00e2n Pazar\u0131, eski mahallenin en b\u00fcy\u00fck kapal\u0131 pazar\u0131d\u0131r; 36 soka\u011f\u0131n kuzey ucunda yer al\u0131r. Zemin kat, gelip ge\u00e7en ziyaret\u00e7iler i\u00e7in pek ilgi \u00e7ekici olmayan toptan e\u015fya (giysi, kuma\u015f, ev gere\u00e7leri) satar. \u00dcst katlar ve \u00e7evredeki sokaklar daha s\u00fcr\u00fckleyicidir : kurutulmu\u015f g\u0131dalar, baharatlar, geleneksel ila\u00e7lar ve mutfak gere\u00e7leri.\n\n\n\nHafta sonu ak\u015famlar\u0131 \u0110\u1ed3ng Xu\u00e2n \u00e7evresindeki sokaklara kurulan gece pazar\u0131, turistik bir cazibe noktas\u0131ndan \u00e7ok yerel bir halk \u015fenli\u011fini and\u0131r\u0131r; birka\u00e7 soka\u011fa yay\u0131lm\u0131\u015f yemek tezg\u00e2hlar\u0131 ve ucuz e\u015fyalar\u0131yla. Eve getirmeye de\u011fer herhangi bir \u015fey bulma umuduyla de\u011fil, atmosfer i\u00e7in ve \u00e7evredeki tezg\u00e2hlar\u0131n birinde bir k\u00e2se b\u00fan ch\u1ea3 i\u00e7in gidin.\n\n\n\nMiras ziyaretlerinizi rotalar halinde nas\u0131l d\u00fczenlersiniz\n\n\n\nHanoi'nin miras alanlar\u0131 do\u011fal olarak mahalleye g\u00f6re k\u00fcmelenir. \u015eehirde zikzak \u00e7izmek yerine, bu \u00fc\u00e7 rota temel noktalar\u0131 verimli bi\u00e7imde kapsar.\n\n\n\nSabah rotas\u0131 : mozoleden Edebiyat Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131'na\n\n\n\n8 . 00'den \u00f6nce H\u1ed3 Ch\u00ed Minh mozolesiyle ba\u015flay\u0131n, ayn\u0131 alandaki Tek S\u00fctunlu Pagoda ve kaz\u0131kl\u0131 ev ile devam edin, ard\u0131ndan on be\u015f dakika g\u00fcneye y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek Edebiyat Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131'na gidin. Bu rota tek bir sabahta \u00fc\u00e7 b\u00fcy\u00fck alan\u0131 kapsar ve 11 . 00 civar\u0131nda biter, \u00f6\u011fleden sonran\u0131z\u0131 serbest b\u0131rak\u0131r. Mozole i\u00e7in gereken m\u00fctevaz\u0131 k\u0131yafet, tap\u0131nak i\u00e7in de m\u00fckemmel bi\u00e7imde uygundur.\n\n\n\nTam g\u00fcn : eski mahalle ve g\u00f6l\n\n\n\nTai-chi ve alt\u0131n \u0131\u015f\u0131k i\u00e7in \u015fafakta (5 . 30 ila 6 . 30) Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm G\u00f6l\u00fc'ne ula\u015f\u0131n. Ng\u1ecdc S\u01a1n Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131'n\u0131 8 . 00'deki a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131\u015f\u0131nda ziyaret edin. Sabah\u0131 36 soka\u011f\u0131 ar\u015f\u0131nlayarak, ara sokaklarda kaybolarak ve Caf\u00e9 Gi\u1ea3ng'da bir egg coffee (egg coffee'nin be\u015fi\u011fi) ya da Caf\u00e9 \u0110inh'te (daha samimi, g\u00f6le bakan k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir balkonu olan, dar bir ara sokaktan eri\u015filen) mola vererek ge\u00e7irin.\n\n\n\n\u00d6\u011fle yeme\u011finden sonra, \u00f6\u011fleden sonray\u0131 sesli rehber e\u015fli\u011finde Hoa Lo Hapishanesi'ne ay\u0131r\u0131n (1 . 30 ila 2 saat). G\u00fcn\u00fc Saint-Joseph Katedrali'nde ve \u00e7evre sokaklarda bir teras \u00fczerinde tr\u00e0 chanh ile bitirin. Hafta sonuysa, ak\u015fam g\u00f6l \u00e7evresindeki yaya soka\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in kal\u0131n.\n\n\n\n\u00d6\u011fleden sonra : Frans\u0131z mahallesi ve Bat\u0131 G\u00f6l\u00fc\n\n\n\nFrans\u0131z mahallesi rotas\u0131n\u0131 (Opera, Metropole, Ng\u00f4 Quy\u1ec1n ve L\u00fd Th\u00e1i T\u1ed5 bulvarlar\u0131, Tr\u00e0ng Ti\u1ec1n dondurmas\u0131) \u00f6\u011fleden sonran\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131nda, \u0131\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131n mimari foto\u011fraf\u00e7\u0131l\u0131\u011fa en uygun oldu\u011fu s\u0131rada gezin. Ard\u0131ndan, suyun \u00fczerindeki e\u011fik \u0131\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131n en g\u00fczel oldu\u011fu \u00f6\u011fleden sonran\u0131n sonunda Tr\u1ea5n Qu\u1ed1c Pagodas\u0131'n\u0131 ve Qu\u00e1n Th\u00e1nh Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131'n\u0131 ziyaret etmek i\u00e7in Bat\u0131 G\u00f6l\u00fc'ne bir taksiyle gidin. Bat\u0131 G\u00f6l\u00fc k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131ndaki restoranlardan birinde bir ak\u015fam yeme\u011fiyle bitirin.\n\n\n\nMiras alanlar\u0131n\u0131, gastronomi turlar\u0131n\u0131 ve g\u00fcn\u00fcbirlik gezileri birle\u015ftiren daha yap\u0131land\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f etkinlik rotalar\u0131 i\u00e7in etkinlikler rehberimize g\u00f6z at\u0131n. Hanoi'de nerede konaklayaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131z konusunda karars\u0131zsan\u0131z, eski mahalle ve Frans\u0131z mahallesi, miras ke\u015ffi i\u00e7in en iyi iki \u00fcs noktas\u0131d\u0131r; \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc her b\u00fcy\u00fck alan y\u00fcr\u00fcme mesafesinde ya da k\u0131sa bir taksi yolculu\u011fu uzakl\u0131\u011f\u0131ndad\u0131r.\n\n\n\nHanoi'nin miras\u0131n\u0131 y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek, tap\u0131nak avlular\u0131ndan s\u00f6m\u00fcrge cephelerine ge\u00e7erek dola\u015fma deneyiminin, Bali'nin k\u00fclt\u00fcrel alanlar\u0131n\u0131 ya da Phuket \u00e7evresindeki tarih\u00ee gezileri ke\u015ffetmeye benzer bir ritmi vard\u0131r, ama daha yo\u011fun ve kesinlikle kentsel bir bi\u00e7imde.\n\n\n\nHanoi, tarihini ne kadife kordonlar\u0131n arkas\u0131nda ne de klimal\u0131 galerilerde sunar. Tarih, \u015fehrin ta kendisidir : sokaklar, k\u00f6pr\u00fcler, g\u00f6ller, insanlar\u0131n h\u00e2l\u00e2 her g\u00fcn i\u00e7inde ya\u015fay\u0131p \u00e7al\u0131\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131 binalar. \u00c7antan\u0131zda bir e\u015farp, Hoa Lo'da bir sesli rehber ve \u015fafaktan \u00f6nce kalkma kararl\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131, sizi bu \u015fehri anlamaya herhangi bir turist otob\u00fcs\u00fcnden \u00e7ok daha fazla yakla\u015ft\u0131racakt\u0131r. Seyahat planlaman\u0131za kapsaml\u0131 bir genel bak\u0131\u015f i\u00e7in kapsaml\u0131 Hanoi seyahat rehberimize ba\u015fvurun.","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/146431","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=146431"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/146431\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/114529"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=146431"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=146431"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=146431"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}