{"id":146431,"title":"Hanoi’de ne g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcr: Eski Mahalle, tap\u0131naklar ve se\u00e7ti\u011fim yerler","modified":"2026-10-07T11:06:59+02:00","plain":"Hanoi, imparator Ly Thai To'nun saray\u0131n\u0131 K\u0131z\u0131l Nehir k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131na ta\u015f\u0131d\u0131\u011f\u0131 1010 y\u0131l\u0131nda kuruldu: 1000 y\u0131l sonra, burada 1070 tarihli bir Konf\u00fc\u00e7y\u00fcs tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131 ile 1911'de tamamlanan Frans\u0131z s\u00f6m\u00fcrge d\u00f6neminden kalma bir opera binas\u0131 aras\u0131nda y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek 15 dakika var.\n\n\n\nHanoi'de nereler g\u00f6r\u00fclmeli? \u0130\u015fte giri\u015f \u00fccretleri, k\u0131yafet kurallar\u0131, gitmek i\u00e7in en uygun zamanlar ve ka\u00e7\u0131nman gereken doland\u0131r\u0131c\u0131l\u0131klarla birlikte se\u00e7ti\u011fim 18 yer. \u00c7o\u011fu i\u00e7in rahat ayakkab\u0131lar ve trafikte kar\u015f\u0131dan kar\u015f\u0131ya ge\u00e7me cesareti bana yetti; arabaya da turist otob\u00fcs\u00fcne de gerek kalmad\u0131.\n\n\n\nY\u00fcr\u00fcyerek gezdi\u011fim Hanoi Eski Mahallesi.\n\n\n\n\n1. Eski Mahalle'nin 36 soka\u011f\u0131nda kaybolmak\n\n2. Ph\u00f9ng H\u01b0ng duvar resimlerini ve Aziz Joseph Katedrali'ni g\u00f6rmek\n\n3. Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm G\u00f6l\u00fc \u00e7evresinde hafta sonlar\u0131 yayalara ayr\u0131lan sokaklarda dola\u015fmak\n\n4. Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm G\u00f6l\u00fc'n\u00fc \u015fafakta g\u00f6rmek\n\n5. Th\u00ea H\u00fac K\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc'nden ge\u00e7ip Ng\u1ecdc S\u01a1n Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131'na gitmek\n\n6. Edebiyat Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131'n\u0131n 82 stelini g\u00f6rmek\n\n7. Ba \u0110\u00ecnh Meydan\u0131'ndaki Ho Chi Minh Mozolesi'nin \u00f6n\u00fcnden s\u0131rayla ge\u00e7mek\n\n8. Kaz\u0131klar \u00fczerindeki evi ve Tek S\u00fctunlu Pagoda'y\u0131 g\u00f6rmek\n\n9. Tr\u1ea5n Qu\u1ed1c Pagodas\u0131'ndan Bat\u0131 G\u00f6l\u00fc'n\u00fc g\u00f6rmek\n\n10. \u201cHanoi Hilton\u201d olarak bilinen Hoa Lo Hapishanesi'ni gezmek\n\n11. Frans\u0131z Mahallesi'ndeki Hanoi Opera Binas\u0131'n\u0131 g\u00f6rmek\n\n12. Sofitel Legend Metropole'de espresso i\u00e7mek\n\n13. Opera Binas\u0131'ndan Tr\u00e0ng Ti\u1ec1n dondurmas\u0131na y\u00fcr\u00fcmek\n\n14. Vietnam Etnoloji M\u00fczesi'ni gezmek\n\n15. G\u00fcn bat\u0131m\u0131nda Long Bi\u00ean K\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc'nden ge\u00e7mek\n\n16. H\u1eefu Ti\u1ec7p G\u00f6l\u00fc'ndeki B-52 enkaz\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6rmek\n\n17. Qu\u00e1n Th\u00e1nh Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131'ndaki bronz Tr\u1ea5n V\u0169 heykelini g\u00f6rmek\n\n18. \u0110\u1ed3ng Xu\u00e2n Pazar\u0131'n\u0131 dola\u015fmak\n\nNe zaman gitmeli?\n\nDi\u011fer Hanoi rehberlerim\n\n\n\n\n1. Eski Mahalle'nin 36 soka\u011f\u0131nda kaybolmak\n\n\n\nEski Mahalle'den bir sokak: dar sokaklar\u0131nda bilerek kayboldum.\n\n\n\nEski Mahalle (Ph\u1ed1 C\u1ed5), Hanoi'nin do\u011fdu\u011fu yer. Buradaki 36 sokak, 13. y\u00fczy\u0131lda loncalara g\u00f6re d\u00fczenlenmi\u015fti; her mesle\u011fin ayr\u0131 bir soka\u011f\u0131 vard\u0131: ipek i\u00e7in H\u00e0ng Gai, g\u00fcm\u00fc\u015f i\u00e7in H\u00e0ng B\u1ea1c, k\u00e2\u011f\u0131ttan e\u015fyalar ve t\u00f6ren malzemeleri i\u00e7in H\u00e0ng M\u00e3. Bug\u00fcn \u00e7o\u011fu turizmden ge\u00e7iniyor ama H\u00e0ng Gai'de h\u00e2l\u00e2 ipek ve \u00f6zel dikim giysiler, H\u00e0ng B\u1ea1c'ta ise g\u00fcm\u00fc\u015f i\u015flerinin yan\u0131 s\u0131ra tak\u0131lar sat\u0131l\u0131yor. \u201cNg\u00f5\u201d denen dar sokaklarda bilerek kayboldum. Bu sokaklar, hi\u00e7 beklemedi\u011fim kapal\u0131 pazarlara, aile at\u00f6lyelerine ve haritalarda g\u00f6r\u00fcnmeyen k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck Budist mabetlerine \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor.\n\n\n\nKar\u015f\u0131dan kar\u015f\u0131ya ge\u00e7mek ger\u00e7ekten kayg\u0131 verici: trafik \u0131\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00e7ok az, motosikletler arabalar\u0131n 10 kat\u0131. Benim tekni\u011fim \u015fu: durmadan ve ani hareket yapmadan sabit bir tempoyla ilerlemek. Motosikletler, suyun bir kayan\u0131n \u00e7evresinden akmas\u0131 gibi etraf\u0131mdan ge\u00e7ti. Ko\u015fma, donup kalma, s\u00fcr\u00fcc\u00fclerle g\u00f6z g\u00f6ze gelmeye \u00e7al\u0131\u015fma: onlar sana uyum sa\u011fl\u0131yor.\n\n\n\nTedirginsen kar\u015f\u0131ya ge\u00e7en bir yerlinin pe\u015fine tak\u0131l ve elini hafif\u00e7e kald\u0131rarak onun trafi\u011fe bakan taraf\u0131nda kal. Yolun kenar\u0131nda y\u00fcr\u00fcmek \u00e7o\u011fu zaman kald\u0131r\u0131mdan daha kolay; kald\u0131r\u0131mlar park etmi\u015f motosikletler, plastik tabureler ve seyyar sat\u0131c\u0131larla dolu.\n\n\n\n2. Ph\u00f9ng H\u01b0ng duvar resimlerini ve Aziz Joseph Katedrali'ni g\u00f6rmek\n\n\n\nEski Mahalle'nin bat\u0131 s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131ndaki Ph\u00f9ng H\u01b0ng duvar resimleri soka\u011f\u0131nda, eski demiryolu viyad\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fcn kemerleri ge\u00e7mi\u015fin Hanoi'sinden sahnelerle s\u00fcsl\u00fc: seyyar sat\u0131c\u0131lar, bisikletli rik\u015falar, eski tramvay a\u011f\u0131. Ana al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f sokaklar\u0131n\u0131n kalabal\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan uzakta, buray\u0131 foto\u011fraf molas\u0131 verdi\u011fim yer yapt\u0131m.\n\n\n\nHemen yak\u0131n\u0131ndaki, Paris'teki Notre Dame'dan esinlenen Aziz Joseph Katedrali'nin (1886) tropikal hava ko\u015fullar\u0131yla kararm\u0131\u015f neogotik cephesi, 140 ya\u015f\u0131ndan \u00e7ok daha eski g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcyor. \u00c7evresindeki Nh\u00e0 Th\u1edd ve L\u00fd Qu\u1ed1c S\u01b0 sokaklar\u0131, bence Eski Mahalle'de a\u00e7\u0131k havada oturmak i\u00e7in en g\u00fczel ortam: burada ak\u015fam kalabal\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 izleyerek bir tr\u00e0 chanh (misket limonlu buzlu \u00e7ay) i\u00e7tim.\n\n\n\n3. Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm G\u00f6l\u00fc \u00e7evresinde hafta sonlar\u0131 yayalara ayr\u0131lan sokaklarda dola\u015fmak\n\n\n\nCumadan pazar ak\u015fam\u0131na kadar Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm G\u00f6l\u00fc \u00e7evresindeki sokaklar yayalara ayr\u0131l\u0131yor ve bence Eski Mahalle'nin en g\u00fczel zaman\u0131 bu: motosikletlerin yerini aileler, sokak sanat\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131, geleneksel oyunlar (halat \u00e7ekme, bambu dans\u0131), mini elektrikli arabalardaki \u00e7ocuklar ve do\u011fa\u00e7lama sahnelerde K-pop cover performanslar\u0131 al\u0131yor. Gece pazar\u0131nda \u00e7o\u011funlukla ucuz hediyelik e\u015fyalar ve giysiler sat\u0131l\u0131yor; ben atmosferi i\u00e7in gittim. Seyahatin hafta sonuna denk geliyorsa bu ak\u015famlar\u0131 ka\u00e7\u0131rma.\n\n\n\nMahalle, \u015fiddet su\u00e7lar\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan son derece g\u00fcvenli ama k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck doland\u0131r\u0131c\u0131l\u0131klar \u00e7ok yayg\u0131n. Bir s\u0131r\u0131\u011f\u0131n iki ucuna sepet asarak ta\u015f\u0131yan kad\u0131nlar, \u201cfoto\u011fraf\u201d i\u00e7in bu d\u00fczene\u011fi omuzlar\u0131na koyuyor, sonra 500.000 VND (yakla\u015f\u0131k 18 \u20ac) istiyor; sen d\u0131\u015far\u0131da otururken bir ayakkab\u0131 boyac\u0131s\u0131 ayakkab\u0131lar\u0131na dokunuyor, istemedi\u011fin h\u00e2lde temizliyor veya yap\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131yor, sonra fahi\u015f bir \u00fccret talep ediyor. Bisikletli rik\u015faya binmeden \u00f6nce fiyat\u0131 yaz\u0131l\u0131 olarak netle\u015ftir: s\u0131f\u0131r say\u0131s\u0131ndaki \u201ckar\u0131\u015f\u0131kl\u0131k\u201d klasik bir numara. Kararl\u0131 ve kibar bir \u201chay\u0131r\u201d yeterli. Hanoi seyahatine haz\u0131rl\u0131k rehberimde yayg\u0131n doland\u0131r\u0131c\u0131l\u0131klar\u0131 ayr\u0131nt\u0131l\u0131 anlat\u0131yorum.\n\n\n\n4. Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm G\u00f6l\u00fc'n\u00fc \u015fafakta g\u00f6rmek\n\n\n\nG\u00fcn do\u011fumunda Th\u00ea H\u00fac K\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc ve Ng\u1ecdc S\u01a1n Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131, g\u00f6l k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda en sevdi\u011fim an.\n\n\n\nKuzeyde Eski Mahalle ile g\u00fcneyde Frans\u0131z Mahallesi aras\u0131nda kalan Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm G\u00f6l\u00fc, Hanoi'nin hem co\u011frafi hem de duygusal merkezi. \u201c\u0130ade Edilen K\u0131l\u0131\u00e7 G\u00f6l\u00fc\u201d anlam\u0131na gelen ad\u0131, imparator L\u00ea L\u1ee3i'nin efsanesinden geliyor: alt\u0131n bir kaplumba\u011fa, 15. y\u00fczy\u0131lda \u00c7inli i\u015fgalcileri p\u00fcsk\u00fcrtmesi i\u00e7in ona sihirli bir k\u0131l\u0131\u00e7 vermi\u015f, o da k\u0131l\u0131c\u0131 g\u00f6l\u00fcn sular\u0131nda kaplumba\u011faya iade etmi\u015f. Ta\u015ftan Kaplumba\u011fa Kulesi, ortadaki k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir adac\u0131kta y\u00fckseliyor.\n\n\n\nSabah erkenden, 5:30 ile 6:30 aras\u0131nda gittim; en g\u00fczel zaman bu: \u0131srarc\u0131 sat\u0131c\u0131lar gelmeden \u00f6nce, yumu\u015fak \u0131\u015f\u0131kta ve serin havada y\u00fczlerce yerli su kenar\u0131nda tai chi, kahkaha yogas\u0131, badminton ve grup dans\u0131 yap\u0131yor. Hanoi'de en sevdi\u011fim an bu. G\u00fcn bat\u0131m\u0131ndan sonra Th\u00ea H\u00fac K\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc ve Kaplumba\u011fa Kulesi \u0131\u015f\u0131kland\u0131r\u0131l\u0131yor; hafta sonunun yayalara ayr\u0131lan ak\u015famlar\u0131nda suya \u00e7arp\u0131c\u0131 yans\u0131malar d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcyor.\n\n\n\n5. Th\u00ea H\u00fac K\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc'nden ge\u00e7ip Ng\u1ecdc S\u01a1n Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131'na gitmek\n\n\n\nNg\u1ecdc S\u01a1n Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131 (Ye\u015fim Da\u011f\u0131 Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131), Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm G\u00f6l\u00fc'n\u00fcn kuzey ucundaki bir adac\u0131kta yer al\u0131yor. Ben buraya, Hanoi'nin b\u00fct\u00fcn kartpostallar\u0131nda g\u00f6r\u00fclen k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 lake ah\u015fap Th\u00ea H\u00fac K\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc'nden ge\u00e7erek girdim. Tap\u0131nak m\u00fctevaz\u0131, gezmem yakla\u015f\u0131k 30 dakika s\u00fcrd\u00fc. En dikkat \u00e7ekici par\u00e7as\u0131, k\u0131l\u0131\u00e7 efsanesiyle ba\u011flant\u0131l\u0131, doldurulmu\u015f dev bir yumu\u015fak kabuklu kaplumba\u011fa. Giri\u015f 30.000 VND (yakla\u015f\u0131k 1,10 \u20ac).\n\n\n\nOmuzlar ve dizler kapal\u0131 olmal\u0131: g\u00f6revliler kontrol ediyor, atlet ve k\u0131sa \u015fortla kesinlikle i\u00e7eri al\u0131nm\u0131yorsun. Bazen \u00f6d\u00fcn\u00e7 pareo veriliyor ama \u00e7antanda ince bir \u015fal bulundurmak daha garanti. Turist otob\u00fcslerinin geldi\u011fi saatler d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda, a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131\u015f saati olan 8:00'i veya \u00f6\u011fleden sonran\u0131n son saatlerini hedefle.\n\n\n\nTemple Ng\u1ecdc S\u01a1n. Foto\u011fraf: denis zaitsev, Google Maps\n\n\n\nHanoi'de yaln\u0131zca 1 tap\u0131nak se\u00e7eceksen do\u011frudan Edebiyat Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131'na git; 1 saatlik bir ziyaret i\u00e7in bence \u00e7ok daha g\u00f6rkemli ve tarih a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan daha zengin. G\u00f6l k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131ndaki elveri\u015fli konumuyla Ng\u1ecdc S\u01a1n ise Eski Mahalle'de y\u00fcr\u00fcrken k\u0131sa bir molay\u0131 hak ediyor.\n\n\n\n6. Edebiyat Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131'n\u0131n 82 stelini g\u00f6r\n\n\n\nEdebiyat Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131 (V\u0103n Mi\u1ebfu), Hanoi'nin en \u00f6nemli tarih\u00ee yeri: \u0130mparator L\u00fd Th\u00e1nh T\u00f4ng d\u00f6neminde, 1070 y\u0131l\u0131nda in\u015fa edilen bir Konf\u00fc\u00e7y\u00fcs tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131. Vietnam'\u0131n ilk \u00fcniversitesi olan \u0130mparatorluk Akademisi (Qu\u1ed1c T\u1eed Gi\u00e1m) de 1076 y\u0131l\u0131nda burada a\u00e7\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Yakla\u015f\u0131k yedi y\u00fczy\u0131l boyunca \u00e2limler, mandarinleri yeti\u015ftiren imparatorluk s\u0131navlar\u0131na burada girmi\u015f. Fransa'daki kamu personeli se\u00e7me s\u0131navlar\u0131n\u0131 hat\u0131rlatan bir liyakat sistemi.\n\n\n\nDuvarlarla \u00e7evrili be\u015f avlu art arda s\u0131ralan\u0131yor, her biri \u00f6ncekinden daha kutsal. Benim en dikkat \u00e7ekici buldu\u011fum \u015fey \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcnc\u00fc avludayd\u0131: oyma kaplumba\u011falar\u0131n \u00fczerinde duran, 1442 ile 1779 aras\u0131nda yap\u0131lan s\u0131navlar\u0131 ge\u00e7enlerin adlar\u0131n\u0131n, do\u011fum yerlerinin ve sonu\u00e7lar\u0131n\u0131n kaz\u0131nd\u0131\u011f\u0131 82 ta\u015f stel. Bunlar UNESCO D\u00fcnya Belle\u011fi K\u00fct\u00fc\u011f\u00fc'ne kay\u0131tl\u0131. Avlular huzurlu, as\u0131rl\u0131k a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131n g\u00f6lgesinde; mimari ise \u00c7in etkisinden ziyade belirgin bi\u00e7imde Vietnam'a \u00f6zg\u00fc.\n\n\n\nArka plan\u0131n\u0131 bilmeden gezersen buras\u0131 art arda s\u0131ralanan bo\u015f ta\u015f alanlar gibi g\u00f6r\u00fcnebilir: gitmeden bilgi edin ya da giri\u015ften sesli rehber al. Giri\u015f 30.000 VND (yakla\u015f\u0131k 1,10 \u20ac); turist otob\u00fcslerinden ve okul gruplar\u0131ndan \u00f6nce, a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131\u015f saati olan 8:00'de gel ve 45 ila 60 dakika ay\u0131r. Mezuniyet d\u00f6nemi olan may\u0131stan temmuza kadar c\u00fcppeleri ve kepleriyle foto\u011fraf \u00e7ektiren \u00f6\u011frenciler ortama enerji kat\u0131yor ama sessizli\u011fi de bozuyor.\n\n\n\nTemple de la Litt\u00e9rature. Foto\u011fraf: Hafid H, Google Maps\n\n\n\nTap\u0131nak, Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm G\u00f6l\u00fc'n\u00fcn g\u00fcneybat\u0131s\u0131nda, y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek yakla\u015f\u0131k yirmi dakika ya da taksiyle k\u0131sa bir yolculuk mesafesinde. \u015eehrin bat\u0131s\u0131ndaki sabah rotam \u015f\u00f6yleydi: 8:00'den \u00f6nce Ho Chi Minh Mozolesi, ayn\u0131 alandaki Tek S\u00fctunlu Pagoda ve kaz\u0131klar \u00fczerindeki ev, ard\u0131ndan g\u00fcneye do\u011fru on be\u015f dakikal\u0131k y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fle buras\u0131. 11:00 civar\u0131nda bitirdim. Mozolede zorunlu olan kapal\u0131 k\u0131yafetler tap\u0131nak i\u00e7in de uygun.\n\n\n\n7. Ba \u0110\u00ecnh Meydan\u0131'ndaki Ho Chi Minh Mozolesi'nde sayg\u0131 ge\u00e7i\u015fi yap\n\n\n\nMozolenin \u00f6n\u00fcndeki kuyruk: 9:00'dan \u00f6nce gel, hi\u00e7 g\u00f6lge yok.\n\n\n\nGranit ve mermerden yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f mozole, Ho Chi Minh'in 2 Eyl\u00fcl 1945'te Vietnam'\u0131n ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 ilan etti\u011fi Ba \u0110\u00ecnh Meydan\u0131'na h\u00e2kim. Lo\u015f \u0131\u015f\u0131k alt\u0131nda, cam bir tabut i\u00e7indeki mumyalanm\u0131\u015f bedeninin \u00f6n\u00fcnden ikili s\u0131ra h\u00e2linde ge\u00e7tim. Muhaf\u0131zlar\u0131n g\u00f6zetiminde, mutlak bir sessizlik i\u00e7indeydi: ancak be\u015f ila on dakika s\u00fcrd\u00fc.\n\n\n\nMoskova'daki Lenin, Pekin'deki Mao ve Pyongyang'daki Kim Il-sung ile birlikte, mumyalanm\u0131\u015f bir ulusal lideri g\u00f6rebilece\u011fin nadir yerlerden biri. Bu fikir seni rahats\u0131z ediyorsa ya da \u201ciyi korunmu\u015f bir \u00f6l\u00fcy\u00fc bir dakika boyunca g\u00f6rmekten\u201d \u00e7ekiniyorsan mozolenin d\u0131\u015f\u0131 ve Ba \u0110\u00ecnh Meydan\u0131'ndaki n\u00f6bet de\u011fi\u015fimi de g\u00f6r\u00fclmeye de\u011fer. \u00dcstelik hi\u00e7 s\u0131ra beklemeden.\n\n\n\nKurallar istisnas\u0131z uygulan\u0131yor: bacaklar ve omuzlar kapal\u0131 olmal\u0131 (\u015fort, atlet ve k\u0131sa etek kabul edilmiyor), ikili s\u0131ra h\u00e2linde y\u00fcr\u00fcnmeli, \u015fapka ve g\u00fcne\u015f g\u00f6zl\u00fc\u011f\u00fc \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131lmal\u0131, eller ceplerden \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131lmal\u0131, tamamen sessiz olunmal\u0131, \u00e7antalar ve foto\u011fraf makineleri emanete b\u0131rak\u0131lmal\u0131. Muhaf\u0131zlar en ufak bir ihlalde uyar\u0131yor: Vietnam devleti bu ziyareti ciddi, neredeyse din\u00ee bir deneyim olarak g\u00f6r\u00fcyor.\n\n\n\n9:00'dan \u00f6nce gel ya da g\u00f6lgesiz bir yerde, g\u00fcne\u015fin alt\u0131nda uzun s\u00fcre s\u0131ra beklemeye haz\u0131rlan. Mozole pazartesi ve cuma g\u00fcnleri, ayr\u0131ca bedenin koruma bak\u0131m\u0131 i\u00e7in her y\u0131l birka\u00e7 hafta (genellikle ekim-kas\u0131m aylar\u0131nda) kapal\u0131. Giri\u015f \u00fccretsiz: \u00e7evrede \u201cbilet\u201d satan hi\u00e7 kimseye para verme, bu bir doland\u0131r\u0131c\u0131l\u0131k.\n\n\n\n8. Kaz\u0131klar \u00fczerindeki evi ve Tek S\u00fctunlu Pagoda'y\u0131 g\u00f6r\n\n\n\nMozolenin \u00e7evresindeki bah\u00e7elerde, mozolenin kendisinden daha ilgin\u00e7 buldu\u011fum iki yer var. Ho Chi Minh, ba\u015fkanl\u0131k saray\u0131n\u0131n arazisindeki kaz\u0131klar \u00fczerine kurulmu\u015f evde ya\u015f\u0131yor ve \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yormu\u015f. Sazan g\u00f6letinin k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131ndaki bu m\u00fctevaz\u0131 ah\u015fap evi, hemen yak\u0131nda \u00c7inhindi genel valisi i\u00e7in in\u015fa edilmi\u015f g\u00f6rkemli Frans\u0131z s\u00f6m\u00fcrge saray\u0131na tercih etmi\u015f. S\u00f6m\u00fcrge ihti\u015fam\u0131yla bilin\u00e7li olarak se\u00e7ilen sadeli\u011fin kar\u015f\u0131 kar\u015f\u0131ya geli\u015fi, ziyaretin as\u0131l odak noktas\u0131. Bunu \u00e7ok \u00e7arp\u0131c\u0131 buldum.\n\n\n\n\u0130lk olarak 1049 y\u0131l\u0131nda in\u015fa edilen Tek S\u00fctunlu Pagoda (Ch\u00f9a M\u1ed9t C\u1ed9t), lotus havuzunun ortas\u0131nda tek bir ta\u015f s\u00fctunun \u00fczerinde duran k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir ah\u015fap pagoda. Sudan y\u00fckselen bir lotus \u00e7i\u00e7e\u011fini \u00e7a\u011fr\u0131\u015ft\u0131racak \u015fekilde tasarlanm\u0131\u015f. Bug\u00fcnk\u00fc yap\u0131 1954'te yeniden in\u015fa edilmi\u015f: Frans\u0131z birlikleri \u00c7inhindi'nden \u00e7ekilirken orijinalini y\u0131km\u0131\u015f. Bu, Hanoililer i\u00e7in ac\u0131 bir hat\u0131ra. Tarih\u00ee betimlemelere sad\u0131k kalan yap\u0131, ba\u015fkentin en \u00e7ok foto\u011fraflanan an\u0131tlar\u0131 aras\u0131nda. Pagoda ve kaz\u0131klar \u00fczerindeki ev mozoleye birka\u00e7 ad\u0131m uzakl\u0131kta ve ziyarete yakla\u015f\u0131k otuz dakika ekliyor.\n\n\n\n9. Tr\u1ea5n Qu\u1ed1c Pagodas\u0131'ndan Bat\u0131 G\u00f6l\u00fc'n\u00fc seyret\n\n\n\nTr\u1ea5n Qu\u1ed1c Pagodas\u0131, Eski Mahalle'nin yakla\u015f\u0131k iki kilometre kuzeyinde, Bat\u0131 G\u00f6l\u00fc'ndeki (H\u1ed3 T\u00e2y) k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir yar\u0131madada bulunuyor. Alt\u0131nc\u0131 y\u00fczy\u0131lda kurulan, yakla\u015f\u0131k 1.500 y\u0131ll\u0131k bu yap\u0131 Hanoi'nin en eski Budist tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131: \u00f6len ke\u015fi\u015flerin k\u00fcllerini bar\u0131nd\u0131ran stupalarla dolu bir bah\u00e7ede on bir katl\u0131 bir kule ve Hindistan'\u0131n Bodh Gaya kentinde Buda'n\u0131n alt\u0131nda ayd\u0131nlanmaya ula\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131 as\u0131l a\u011fa\u00e7tan al\u0131nan bir \u00e7elikten yeti\u015fti\u011fi s\u00f6ylenen bir Bodhi a\u011fac\u0131. Beni etkileyen, bulundu\u011fu ortamd\u0131: Hanoi'nin en b\u00fcy\u00fck su k\u00fctlesi olan Bat\u0131 G\u00f6l\u00fc'yle neredeyse tamamen \u00e7evrili pagoda, \u00f6zellikle ikindi \u0131\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131nda her y\u00f6ne g\u00fczel manzaralar sunuyor.\n\n\n\nPagode Tr\u1ea5n Qu\u1ed1c. Foto\u011fraf: G 'n' G, Google Maps\n\n\n\nGiri\u015f \u00fccretsiz ama pagoda baz\u0131 din\u00ee t\u00f6renler s\u0131ras\u0131nda kapan\u0131yor. Ayr\u0131ca kapal\u0131 k\u0131yafet giymek \u015fart (omuzlar ve dizler \u00f6rt\u00fcl\u00fc olmal\u0131). Ziyareti Bat\u0131 G\u00f6l\u00fc k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda bir y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f ya da bisiklet turuyla birle\u015ftirirsen Eski Mahalle'nin yo\u011funlu\u011fundan uzakta, dinlendirici bir yar\u0131m g\u00fcn ge\u00e7irebilirsin.\n\n\n\n10. \u201cHanoi Hilton\u201d olarak bilinen Hoa Lo Hapishanesi'ni ziyaret et\n\n\n\nBana g\u00f6re Hoa Lo Hapishanesi, Hanoi'nin insan\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnsel a\u00e7\u0131dan en \u00e7ok zorlayan yeri. Frans\u0131z s\u00f6m\u00fcrge y\u00f6netimi taraf\u0131ndan Vietnaml\u0131 siyasi tutuklular i\u00e7in 1896'da in\u015fa edilmi\u015f. Giyotin, ayak prangalar\u0131, darac\u0131k toplu h\u00fccreler ve infaz odas\u0131 hi\u00e7bir \u015fey gizlenmeden sergileniyor. Bir Frans\u0131z ziyaret\u00e7i i\u00e7in buras\u0131, bulvarlar\u0131n ve villalar\u0131n romantik imgesinden uzak, Fransa'n\u0131n \u00c7inhindi'ndeki varl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n karanl\u0131k y\u00fcz\u00fc.\n\n\n\nVietnam Sava\u015f\u0131 s\u0131ras\u0131nda ayn\u0131 hapishanede Amerikal\u0131 sava\u015f esirleri tutulmu\u015f (burada be\u015f bu\u00e7uk y\u0131l ge\u00e7iren Senat\u00f6r John McCain de d\u00e2hil). Buraya \u201cHanoi Hilton\u201d ad\u0131n\u0131 onlar takm\u0131\u015f. Beni \u00e7arpan \u015fey kar\u015f\u0131tl\u0131kt\u0131: s\u00f6m\u00fcrge d\u00f6nemine ayr\u0131lan b\u00f6l\u00fcmde zincire vurulmu\u015f mahk\u00fbmlar\u0131n ger\u00e7ek boyutlu canland\u0131rmalar\u0131 ve ayr\u0131nt\u0131l\u0131 i\u015fkence y\u00f6ntemleri, di\u011fer tarafta ise voleybol oynayan, Noel a\u011fac\u0131 s\u00fcsleyen ya da t\u0131bbi bak\u0131m g\u00f6ren Amerikal\u0131 tutuklular\u0131n foto\u011fraflar\u0131. Bu fark bilin\u00e7li olarak yarat\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ve deneyimin \u00f6z\u00fc bunu fark etmekte: tarihin nas\u0131l anlat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6rmek i\u00e7in git, \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc burada sergilenen \u015fey propagandan\u0131n kendisi.\n\n\n\nPrison Hoa Lo. Foto\u011fraf: Tr\u00ed Nguy\u1ec5n Minh, Google Maps\n\n\n\nGiri\u015f 30.000 VND (yakla\u015f\u0131k 1,10 \u20ac). Ben ayr\u0131ca 50.000 ila 70.000 VND (1,80 ila 2,50 \u20ac) \u00f6deyip sesli rehber ald\u0131m. Bilgi panolar\u0131 o kadar y\u00fczeysel ki neredeyse \u015fart. 1 saat 30 dakika ila 2 saat ay\u0131r; Frans\u0131z d\u00f6nemine ait i\u015fkence ve infaz tasvirleri baz\u0131 ziyaret\u00e7iler i\u00e7in sars\u0131c\u0131 olabiliyor. Hapishane H\u1ecfa L\u00f2 soka\u011f\u0131nda, Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm G\u00f6l\u00fc'n\u00fcn birka\u00e7 dakikal\u0131k y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fle g\u00fcneyinde.\n\n\n\n11. Frans\u0131z Mahallesi'ndeki Hanoi Opera Binas\u0131'n\u0131 g\u00f6r\n\n\n\nAk\u015fam ayd\u0131nlat\u0131lm\u0131\u015f Hanoi Opera Binas\u0131: yaln\u0131zca cephesi i\u00e7in bile durmaya de\u011fer.\n\n\n\n1902'den 1954'e kadar Frans\u0131z \u00c7inhindi'nin ba\u015fkenti olan Hanoi, Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm G\u00f6l\u00fc'n\u00fcn g\u00fcneyinde ve do\u011fusunda koca bir Avrupa mahallesini korumu\u015f. Burada tuhaf bir d\u00e9j\u00e0 vu hissine kap\u0131ld\u0131m: tropikal bir g\u00f6ky\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fcn alt\u0131nda, Fransa'n\u0131n ta\u015fra sokaklar\u0131n\u0131n bina oranlar\u0131 ve panjurlar\u0131. A\u011fa\u00e7larla \u00e7evrili geni\u015f bulvarlar\u0131, t\u00fcp evlerin yerini alan b\u00fcy\u00fck sar\u0131 villalar\u0131 ve motosikletlerden ka\u00e7mak zorunda kalmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n ger\u00e7ek kald\u0131r\u0131mlar\u0131yla Eski Mahalle'nin tam tersi.\n\n\n\n1911'de tamamlanan ve do\u011frudan Paris'teki Palais Garnier'den esinlenen Hanoi Opera Binas\u0131, Tr\u00e0ng Ti\u1ec1n soka\u011f\u0131n\u0131n sonunda, k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir a\u00e7\u0131k alan\u0131n kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda y\u00fckseliyor. \u0130\u00e7erisi yaln\u0131zca g\u00f6steri biletiyle gezilebiliyor ama \u00f6zellikle alt\u0131n saatte, krem rengi cephesi i\u00e7in bile durmaya de\u011fer. Salonu g\u00f6rmek i\u00e7in Vietnaml\u0131 akrobatlar\u0131n bambu kulland\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir sirk g\u00f6sterisi olan \u201cL\u00e0ng T\u00f4i\u201d (K\u00f6y\u00fcm) hakk\u0131nda bilgi edin. Haftada birka\u00e7 kez sahneleniyor ve biletler internetten al\u0131nabiliyor.\n\n\n\n12. Sofitel Legend Metropole'de espresso i\u00e7\n\n\n\n1901'de a\u00e7\u0131lan Sofitel Legend Metropole, Hanoi'nin en \u00fcnl\u00fc oteli ve ba\u015fl\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131na bir an\u0131t: ye\u015fil panjurlu, beyaz bir s\u00f6m\u00fcrge d\u00f6nemi binas\u0131; insan\u0131 ba\u015fka bir d\u00f6neme g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fcyor. Lobisi otelde konaklamayanlara da a\u00e7\u0131k. Ben kald\u0131r\u0131m kenar\u0131ndaki kafesi La Terrasse'a oturup Frans\u0131z \u00c7inhindi'nin ultra l\u00fcks versiyonuna yak\u0131\u015f\u0131r fiyatlarla bir espresso i\u00e7tim: i\u00e7ecek ba\u015f\u0131na 150.000 ila 200.000 VND (yakla\u015f\u0131k 5,50 ila 7,30 \u20ac) hesapla. 2011'deki yenileme \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131 s\u0131ras\u0131nda ke\u015ffedilen bodrum kat\u0131ndaki s\u0131\u011f\u0131nak, zaman zaman rehberli turlara a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131yor.\n\n\n\n13. Opera Binas\u0131'ndan Tr\u00e0ng Ti\u1ec1n dondurmas\u0131na y\u00fcr\u00fcmek\n\n\n\nY\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f\u00fcm Opera Binas\u0131'ndan ba\u015flay\u0131p s\u00f6m\u00fcrge d\u00f6neminin en g\u00f6rkemli iki bulvar\u0131 olan Ng\u00f4 Quy\u1ec1n ve L\u00fd Th\u00e1i T\u1ed5 boyunca ilerliyor. Kom\u015fu sokaklardaki restore edilmi\u015f villalarda el\u00e7ilikler ve devlet binalar\u0131 bulunuyor. Eski Mahalle'nin kenar\u0131ndaki Aziz Yusuf Katedrali'nden ge\u00e7tim ve y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f\u00fcm\u00fc Tr\u00e0ng Ti\u1ec1n soka\u011f\u0131ndaki Tr\u00e0ng Ti\u1ec1n dondurmac\u0131s\u0131nda (kem Tr\u00e0ng Ti\u1ec1n) bitirdim. 1958'den beri Hanoi'nin simgelerinden biri olan bu yer, soka\u011fa a\u00e7\u0131lan k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir pencereden yap\u0131\u015fkan pirin\u00e7li dondurma sat\u0131yor. A\u011f\u0131r a\u011f\u0131r gezmek i\u00e7in yakla\u015f\u0131k bir saat ay\u0131r. Tercihen \u00f6\u011fleden sonran\u0131n erken saatlerini se\u00e7; mimariyi foto\u011fraflamak i\u00e7in \u0131\u015f\u0131k en g\u00fczel o zaman oluyor.\n\n\n\nPhnom Penh, Ho Chi Minh Kenti veya Pudu\u00e7eri'yi biliyorsan, \u201c\u00c7inhindi\u201d denen bu tarz sana tan\u0131d\u0131k gelecektir: tropikal iklime uyarlanm\u0131\u015f Frans\u0131z neoklasik mimarisi (panjurlar, derin verandalar, hava dola\u015f\u0131m\u0131 i\u00e7in y\u00fcksek tavanlar). Burada \u00f6rnekleri ola\u011fan\u00fcst\u00fc bir yo\u011funlukta bulunuyor. Opera Binas\u0131'n\u0131n hemen yak\u0131n\u0131ndaki Ulusal Tarih M\u00fczesi binas\u0131, bunun en g\u00fczel \u00f6rneklerinden biri.\n\n\n\n14. Vietnam Etnoloji M\u00fczesi'ni ziyaret etmek\n\n\n\nVietnam Etnoloji M\u00fczesi, Eski Mahalle'nin yakla\u015f\u0131k yedi kilometre bat\u0131s\u0131nda; taksiyle ula\u015fabilirsin (merkezden 80.000 ile 100.000 VND, yani 3 ile 3,60 \u20ac). Bence Hanoi'nin en iyi m\u00fczesi, G\u00fcneydo\u011fu Asya'n\u0131n da en iyilerinden biri: Vietnam'\u0131n resmen tan\u0131nan 54 etnik grubunu, ger\u00e7ek boyutlar\u0131nda yeniden in\u015fa edilmi\u015f geleneksel evler, dokumalar, t\u00f6ren e\u015fyalar\u0131 ve belgesel videolarla anlat\u0131yor.\n\n\n\nEn etkileyici k\u0131sm\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131k hava b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc. Buradaki ger\u00e7ek boyutlu evlerin \u00e7o\u011funa girdim: ba\u015f d\u00f6nd\u00fcr\u00fcc\u00fc y\u00fckseklikte saz \u00e7at\u0131l\u0131 bir Bahnar topluluk evi (r\u00f4ng), kaz\u0131klar \u00fczerinde bir T\u00e0y evi, bir \u00cad\u00ea uzun evi ve di\u011ferleri. \u0130\u00e7erideki galerilerde hem yaylalar\u0131n hem de ovalar\u0131n d\u00fc\u011f\u00fcnleri, cenaze rit\u00fcelleri, tar\u0131m uygulamalar\u0131 ve maddi k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fc ele al\u0131n\u0131yor; acele etmeden gezmek i\u00e7in iki ila \u00fc\u00e7 saat ay\u0131r.\n\n\n\nMus\u00e9e d'Ethnologie du Vietnam. Foto\u011fraf: Robert Szeremeta, Google Maps\n\n\n\nGiri\u015f 40.000 VND (yakla\u015f\u0131k 1,45 \u20ac) ve m\u00fcze pazartesi g\u00fcnleri kapal\u0131; ziyareti, yak\u0131ndaki Bat\u0131 G\u00f6l\u00fc ve Tr\u1ea5n Qu\u1ed1c Pagodas\u0131'nda ge\u00e7irece\u011fin bir \u00f6\u011fleden sonrayla rahat\u00e7a birle\u015ftirebilirsin. Bangkok'un b\u00fcy\u00fck tap\u0131naklar\u0131 gibi G\u00fcneydo\u011fu Asya'n\u0131n ba\u015fka tap\u0131naklar\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6rd\u00fcysen, Vietnam k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcne dini mimarinin \u00f6tesinden, bamba\u015fka bir a\u00e7\u0131dan bakmas\u0131n\u0131 seveceksin.\n\n\n\n15. G\u00fcn bat\u0131m\u0131nda Long Bi\u00ean K\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc'nden ge\u00e7mek\n\n\n\nG\u00fcn bat\u0131m\u0131nda Long Bi\u00ean K\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc; k\u00f6pr\u00fcden ge\u00e7mek i\u00e7in sana \u00f6nerdi\u011fim saatler.\n\n\n\nLong Bi\u00ean K\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc, Eski Mahalle'nin yakla\u015f\u0131k bir kilometre kuzeyinde K\u0131z\u0131l Nehir'i a\u015f\u0131yor. Dayd\u00e9 & Pill\u00e9 at\u00f6lyeleri taraf\u0131ndan tasarlanan k\u00f6pr\u00fc (s\u0131kl\u0131kla Gustave Eiffel'in \u015firketine atfedilse de tarih\u00e7iler bunu tart\u0131\u015f\u0131yor), Frans\u0131z s\u00f6m\u00fcrge y\u00f6netimi i\u00e7in 1903'te tamamlanm\u0131\u015f. Vietnam Sava\u015f\u0131 s\u0131ras\u0131nda defalarca bombalanm\u0131\u015f ve her seferinde yeniden in\u015fa edilmi\u015f; bu y\u00fczden \u00f6zg\u00fcn per\u00e7inli \u00e7elik yap\u0131s\u0131, daha yak\u0131n tarihli beton onar\u0131mlarla bir arada.\n\n\n\nK\u00f6pr\u00fcden y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek g\u00fcn bat\u0131m\u0131nda ge\u00e7tim, tam da ideal zamanda. Ortas\u0131ndan g\u00f6r\u00fcnen manzara \u00e7arp\u0131c\u0131: a\u015fa\u011f\u0131da K\u0131z\u0131l Nehir, kar\u015f\u0131 k\u0131y\u0131da muz bah\u00e7eleri ve zaman zaman geriye kalan tek demiryolu hatt\u0131ndan ge\u00e7en bir tren.\n\n\n\n16. H\u1eefu Ti\u1ec7p G\u00f6l\u00fc'ndeki B-52 enkaz\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6rmek\n\n\n\nEski Mahalle'nin yakla\u015f\u0131k iki kilometre bat\u0131s\u0131ndaki k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir yerle\u015fim mahallesinde, bir Amerikan B-52 bombard\u0131man u\u00e7a\u011f\u0131n\u0131n enkaz\u0131, 1972 Noel bombard\u0131manlar\u0131 s\u0131ras\u0131nda d\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc\u011f\u00fc k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fcc\u00fck g\u00f6lde h\u00e2l\u00e2 duruyor. G\u00f6vdenin b\u00fck\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f saclar\u0131 ve kanat par\u00e7alar\u0131, s\u0131radan evlerle \u00e7evrili h\u00e2lde, yar\u0131m y\u00fczy\u0131ldan uzun zaman \u00f6nce d\u00fc\u015ft\u00fckleri yerde kalm\u0131\u015f.\n\n\n\nM\u00fcze, gi\u015fe veya m\u00fctevaz\u0131 bir an\u0131 levhas\u0131 d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda herhangi bir tabela yok. Bu mahalle g\u00f6letinin k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda durup enkaza bakarken etraf\u0131mda g\u00fcnl\u00fck hayat devam ediyordu; bana ger\u00e7ek\u00fcst\u00fc geldi. Alan \u00fccretsiz ve her saatte eri\u015filebilir. Ho\u00e0ng Hoa Th\u00e1m soka\u011f\u0131nda, Ng\u1ecdc H\u00e0 soka\u011f\u0131yla kesi\u015fti\u011fi noktan\u0131n yak\u0131n\u0131nda bulunuyor.\n\n\n\nLac H\u1eefu Ti\u1ec7p, \u00e9pave du B-52. Foto\u011fraf: V\u0103n Huy Nguy\u1ec5n, Google Maps\n\n\n\n17. Qu\u00e1n Th\u00e1nh Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131'ndaki bronz Tr\u1ea5n V\u0169 heykelini g\u00f6rmek\n\n\n\nBat\u0131 G\u00f6l\u00fc'n\u00fcn g\u00fcney k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda, Tr\u1ea5n Qu\u1ed1c Pagodas\u0131 yak\u0131n\u0131ndaki Taocu Qu\u00e1n Th\u00e1nh Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131, L\u00fd Hanedan\u0131 d\u00f6neminden (11. y\u00fczy\u0131l) kalma. \u0130\u00e7eride, Taoizm'in kuzey tanr\u0131s\u0131 Tr\u1ea5n V\u0169'nun yakla\u015f\u0131k d\u00f6rt metre y\u00fcksekli\u011finde, 1677'de d\u00f6k\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f ve yakla\u015f\u0131k d\u00f6rt ton a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131\u011f\u0131nda bronz bir heykeli bulunuyor: Vietnam'\u0131n en g\u00fczel bronz d\u00f6k\u00fcmlerinden biri say\u0131l\u0131yor.\n\n\n\nTap\u0131nak, ba\u015fl\u0131ca turistik yerlere g\u00f6re \u00e7ok daha az ziyaret\u00e7i a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131yor ve giri\u015f sadece 10.000 VND (yakla\u015f\u0131k 0,36 \u20ac). Ziyaretimi Tr\u1ea5n Qu\u1ed1c ve Bat\u0131 G\u00f6l\u00fc k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda bir y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fle birle\u015ftirdim. Suyun \u00fczerindeki yatay \u0131\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131n en g\u00fczel oldu\u011fu ak\u015fam\u00fcst\u00fc saatlerini se\u00e7tim, ard\u0131ndan g\u00f6l k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131ndaki restoranlardan birinde ak\u015fam yeme\u011fi yedim.\n\n\n\n18. \u0110\u1ed3ng Xu\u00e2n Pazar\u0131'n\u0131 dola\u015fmak\n\n\n\n36 soka\u011f\u0131n kuzey ucundaki \u0110\u1ed3ng Xu\u00e2n Pazar\u0131, Eski Mahalle'nin en b\u00fcy\u00fck kapal\u0131 pazar\u0131. Zemin katta toptan sat\u0131\u015f yap\u0131l\u0131yor (giysi, kuma\u015f, ev e\u015fyalar\u0131); gezginler i\u00e7in pek ilgi \u00e7ekici de\u011fil. Ben daha ilgin\u00e7 olan \u00fcst katlara \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131m. \u00c7evredeki sokaklar gibi buralarda da kurutulmu\u015f g\u0131dalar, baharatlar, geleneksel ila\u00e7lar ve mutfak gere\u00e7leri bulunuyor.\n\n\n\nHafta sonu ak\u015famlar\u0131 \u0110\u1ed3ng Xu\u00e2n \u00e7evresindeki sokaklarda kurulan gece pazar\u0131, turistik bir yerden \u00e7ok yerel bir halk \u015fenli\u011fini and\u0131r\u0131yor. Birka\u00e7 soka\u011fa yay\u0131lan tezg\u00e2hlarda yemek ve ucuz \u00fcr\u00fcnler sat\u0131l\u0131yor. Ben atmosferi i\u00e7in ve \u00e7evredeki tezg\u00e2hlardan birinde bir k\u00e2se b\u00fan ch\u1ea3 yemek i\u00e7in gittim; al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan eve g\u00f6t\u00fcrecek kullan\u0131\u015fl\u0131 bir \u015fey yoktu.\n\n\n\nEvde de yapmak ister misin? B\u00fan ch\u1ea3 tarifim sitede.\n\n\n\nEvde ph\u1edf da yap\u0131yorum; ph\u1edf tarifim burada. Vietnam mutfa\u011f\u0131n\u0131n di\u011fer yemeklerini ise bu mutfa\u011fa ay\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131m sayfada tan\u0131t\u0131yorum.\n\n\n\nNe zaman gitmeli?\n\n\n\nG\u00fcnlerini se\u00e7erken \u015funlar\u0131 akl\u0131nda tut: an\u0131t mezar pazartesi ve cuma g\u00fcnleri, ayr\u0131ca y\u0131lda birka\u00e7 hafta (genellikle ekimden kas\u0131ma kadar) kapal\u0131. Etnoloji M\u00fczesi pazartesi g\u00fcnleri kapal\u0131, Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm G\u00f6l\u00fc \u00e7evresindeki sokaklar ise yaln\u0131zca cuma g\u00fcn\u00fcnden pazar ak\u015fam\u0131na kadar yayalara ayr\u0131l\u0131yor. May\u0131stan temmuza kadar mezuniyet d\u00f6nemi, Edebiyat Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131'n\u0131 kalabal\u0131kla\u015ft\u0131r\u0131yor.\n\n\n\nGezilecek yerleri mahallelere g\u00f6re gruplad\u0131m: sabah an\u0131t mezar ve Edebiyat Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131, \u00f6\u011fleden sonra Frans\u0131z Mahallesi ve ard\u0131ndan taksiyle Bat\u0131 G\u00f6l\u00fc; Eski Mahalle i\u00e7inse tam bir g\u00fcn. Bu g\u00fcn, \u015fafak vakti g\u00f6lde (5:30 ile 6:30 aras\u0131) ve 8:00'de Ng\u1ecdc S\u01a1n'da ba\u015fl\u0131yor. Ard\u0131ndan 36 sokaktan ge\u00e7iyor; yumurtal\u0131 kahvenin do\u011fdu\u011fu yer olan Caf\u00e9 Gi\u1ea3ng'da bir yumurtal\u0131 kahve molas\u0131 veriyor. Alternatif olarak, dar bir sokaktan ula\u015f\u0131lan, g\u00f6le bakan k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck balkonuyla daha samimi bir ortam sunan Caf\u00e9 \u0110inh'i se\u00e7ebilirsin.\n\n\n\n\u00d6\u011fle yeme\u011finden sonra s\u0131ra Hoa Lo'da, ard\u0131ndan Aziz Yusuf Katedrali yak\u0131n\u0131nda bir terasta tr\u00e0 chanh molas\u0131nda ve hafta sonuysa g\u00f6l \u00e7evresindeki yaya soka\u011f\u0131nda. Benim haz\u0131rl\u0131\u011f\u0131m: \u00e7antada bir \u015fal, Hoa Lo'da sesli rehber ve \u015fafaktan \u00f6nce kalkma kararl\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131.\n\n\n\nHanoi i\u00e7in di\u011fer rehberlerim\n\n\n\nHanoi'de yap\u0131lacak aktiviteler rehberimde, k\u00fclt\u00fcrel miras alanlar\u0131n\u0131, gastronomi turlar\u0131n\u0131 ve g\u00fcn\u00fcbirlik gezileri birle\u015ftiren rotalar \u00f6neriyorum. Konaklamak i\u00e7in Eski Mahalle ve Frans\u0131z Mahallesi en iyi iki \u00fcs; ba\u015fl\u0131ca gezilecek yerlerin hepsi y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f mesafesinde veya k\u0131sa bir taksi yolculu\u011fu uzakl\u0131\u011f\u0131nda. Bu mahalleleri Hanoi'de nerede kal\u0131n\u0131r yaz\u0131mda kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131r\u0131yorum. Tap\u0131nak avlular\u0131 ve s\u00f6m\u00fcrge d\u00f6neminden kalma cepheler aras\u0131nda y\u00fcr\u00fcrken Hanoi bana Bali'nin k\u00fclt\u00fcrel yerlerinin veya Phuket \u00e7evresindeki tarihi gezilerin ritmini hat\u0131rlatt\u0131, ama daha yo\u011fun ve daha kentsel bir h\u00e2liyle. U\u00e7u\u015flar, konaklama ve b\u00fct\u00e7eyle ilgili her \u015fey kapsaml\u0131 Hanoi gezi rehberimde.","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/146431","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=146431"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/146431\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/114529"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=146431"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=146431"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=146431"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}