{"id":145410,"title":"Otantik Tom Saap – Isan usul\u00fc ek\u015fi-ac\u0131 \u00e7orba","modified":"2026-06-16T15:25:27+02:00","plain":"Aromatik ve keskin bir Tay Tom Saap \u00e7orbas\u0131; usul usul pi\u015fen domuz et suyu, kavrulmu\u015f ot ezmesi, misket limonu ve pul biberle bulu\u015fuyor.\n\n\n\nIsan leh\u00e7esinde saap deyin, sahne hemen kurulur : bu s\u00f6zc\u00fck d\u00fcped\u00fcz \u00ab lezzetli \u00bb demektir. Buna bir de yumu\u015fak t\u0131n\u0131l\u0131 tom fiilini (\u00ab kaynatmak \u00bb) ekleyin. Kar\u015f\u0131n\u0131za Tom Saap \u00e7\u0131kar; kokusu \u00f6ylesine iddial\u0131 bir k\u00e2sedir ki Tayland\u2019\u0131n kuzeydo\u011fusunu tek ba\u015f\u0131na anlat\u0131r. \n\n\n\ntom yum, yurtd\u0131\u015f\u0131nda kartpostallar\u0131 ve restoran men\u00fclerini \u00e7oktan fethetti. Daha az bilinen Tom Saap ise bug\u00fcn Bangkok\u2019ta ve d\u00fcnyan\u0131n bir\u00e7ok ba\u015fkentinde kendine yer bulsa da kuzeydo\u011fulu karakterini h\u00e2l\u00e2 koruyor. \n\n\n\nNefis tom yum\n\n\n\nBu, karakteri g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc, berrak bir et suyudur; limon otu, galangal, kaffir limonu yapraklar\u0131, k\u00f6zlenmi\u015f biberler ve f\u0131nd\u0131\u011f\u0131 and\u0131ran aromas\u0131yla kavrulmu\u015f pirin\u00e7 tozu bu \u00e7orban\u0131n omurgas\u0131n\u0131 olu\u015fturur.\n\n\n\nPirin\u00e7 tarlalar\u0131n\u0131n ate\u015finden \u015fehir sokaklar\u0131na : k\u00f6keni ve k\u00fclt\u00fcrel ba\u011flam\u0131\n\n\n\nTom Saap, pirin\u00e7 tarlalar\u0131n\u0131n s\u0131k ormanla bulu\u015ftu\u011fu yerde do\u011fdu : sert s\u0131\u011f\u0131r eti par\u00e7alar\u0131n\u0131, sakatat\u0131 ya da tencereye giren her \u015feyi yumu\u015fatabilen, zekice d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f bir k\u00f6yl\u00fc \u00e7orbas\u0131. \n\n\n\n\u0130lk et sular\u0131 odun ate\u015finde usul usul kaynard\u0131 ; kemikler kolajenini salarken, kendine \u00f6zg\u00fc buruklu\u011fu i\u00e7in makbul say\u0131lan s\u0131\u011f\u0131r safras\u0131 da tada daha karma\u015f\u0131k bir katman eklerdi. Yerel a\u015f\u00e7\u0131lar h\u00e2l\u00e2 \u015fu eski deyi\u015fi anar : bo khom bo saap \u2013 \u0e1a\u0e48\u0e02\u0e21\u0e1a\u0e48\u0e41\u0e0b\u0e1a \u2013 \u00ab ac\u0131 de\u011filse, lezzetli de\u011fildir \u00bb.\n\n\n\n20. y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n sonlar\u0131nda, Isanl\u0131 i\u015f\u00e7i dalgalar\u0131 Bangkok\u2019taki \u015fantiyelere gitmek i\u00e7in \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcnc\u00fc s\u0131n\u0131f trenlere biniyor, \u00f6zledikleri tatlar\u0131 yemek kaplar\u0131nda yanlar\u0131nda ta\u015f\u0131yordu. Sokak sat\u0131c\u0131lar\u0131 da onlar\u0131 izledi; s\u0131\u011f\u0131r sakatat\u0131n\u0131n yerine daha \u00e7ok ra\u011fbet g\u00f6ren domuz kaburgalar\u0131n\u0131 koyarken, otlara dayal\u0131 aromatik yap\u0131y\u0131 korudular. \n\n\n\n\u00c7orbadan \u00e7ok sote et mi seviyorsunuz? O halde Phat phet'i deneyin\n\n\n\nGece boyunca Tom Saap k\u00e2seleri, bira kulelerinin \u00f6n\u00fcne dizilmi\u015f plastik masalar\u0131 buhara bo\u011fuyor, bu yeme\u011fi de kusursuz bir gap glaeme (i\u00e7ki yan\u0131nda yenilen at\u0131\u015ft\u0131rmal\u0131k) d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr\u00fcyordu : yap\u0131\u015fkan pirin\u00e7 sepetleriyle dedikoduyu masada ayn\u0131 canl\u0131l\u0131kla dola\u015ft\u0131ran bir yemek. Bug\u00fcn Singapur\u2019dan Stockholm\u2019e \u015fehir men\u00fclerine g\u00f6z atmak, bu g\u00f6\u00e7 yollar\u0131n\u0131 izlemek i\u00e7in yeterli : her k\u00e2se, yurtd\u0131\u015f\u0131nda aksan\u0131 biraz yumu\u015fasa da h\u00e2l\u00e2 ak\u0131c\u0131 bir Isan dili konu\u015fuyor.\n\n\n\nGer\u00e7ek Tom Saap nedir?\n\n\n\nHakiki bir Tom Saap \u00f6nce limon otunun kokusunu, ard\u0131ndan galangal\u0131n re\u00e7inemsi ve temiz notas\u0131n\u0131, son olarak da kaffir limonu yapraklar\u0131n\u0131n narenciye \u00e7arpmas\u0131n\u0131 hissettirir. Bunlardan biri eksikse denge bozulur. \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDerinlik, hindistan cevizi s\u00fct\u00fcnden de\u011fil, kolajenle hafif\u00e7e bulanm\u0131\u015f kemikli bir et suyundan (domuz kaburgalar\u0131 ya da s\u0131\u011f\u0131r inci\u011fi) gelir. Ate\u015f kapat\u0131l\u0131nca y\u00fczeyde bir avu\u00e7 uzun ki\u015fni\u015f (\u0e1c\u0e31\u0e01\u0e0a\u0e35\u0e1d\u0e23\u0e31\u0e48\u0e07) ve ince k\u0131y\u0131lm\u0131\u015f taze so\u011fan (\u0e15\u0e49\u0e19\u0e2b\u0e2d\u0e21) y\u00fczer ; \u00ab klasik \u00bb ki\u015fni\u015f burada ancak Orta Tayland\u2019dan gelen bir misafirdir. \n\n\n\nBiber iki kritik anda oyuna girer : en ba\u015ftan eklenen t\u00fcts\u00fcl\u00fc, k\u00f6zlenmi\u015f biber pullar\u0131; ard\u0131ndan servisten hemen \u00f6nce hafif\u00e7e ezilen ku\u015f g\u00f6z\u00fc biberler. Son olarak, b\u00f6lgenin imzas\u0131 say\u0131lan bir ka\u015f\u0131k kavrulmu\u015f pirin\u00e7 tozu, kamp ate\u015fini an\u0131msatan bir koku ve dudaklara tutunan hafif p\u00fct\u00fcrl\u00fc bir doku katar.\n\n\n\nBir tutam buruklukla ate\u015f ve ek\u015finin dengesi\n\n\n\nHakiki bir k\u00e2se, misket limonunun \u00e7enenin arkas\u0131n\u0131 s\u0131zlatan ek\u015fili\u011fiyle \u015fakaklarda ter boncukland\u0131r\u0131r. Demirhindi posas\u0131 kemiklerle birlikte kaynar; s\u0131ca\u011f\u0131 ta\u015f\u0131yan, yuvarlak ve neredeyse meyvemsi bir asidite verir. \n\n\n\nTuzlulu\u011fu bal\u0131k sosu sa\u011flar ; bir fiske glutamat ya da fermente pla ra umamiyi g\u00fc\u00e7lendirir, \u015feker ise kullan\u0131lacaksa geri planda kal\u0131r. S\u0131\u011f\u0131r etli yorumlar bazen h\u00e2l\u00e2 o miras buruklu\u011fa yakla\u015f\u0131r (s\u0131\u011f\u0131r safras\u0131 ya da khee pia denen otsu kar\u0131\u015f\u0131m), ama bunlar bir zorunluluk de\u011fil, yaln\u0131zca dipnot niteli\u011findedir. \n\n\n\nBulan\u0131k bir et suyu ya da ac\u0131n\u0131n iste\u011fe ba\u011fl\u0131 sunulmas\u0131, kar\u015f\u0131n\u0131zdakinin taklit oldu\u011funu ele verir : belirgin bir tatl\u0131l\u0131k, hindistan cevizi kremas\u0131 ya da end\u00fcstriyel tom yum ezmesi g\u00f6r\u00fcyorsan\u0131z, art\u0131k ger\u00e7ek bir Tom Saap\u2019la kar\u015f\u0131 kar\u015f\u0131ya de\u011filsinizdir.\n\n\n\nTom Saap\u2019\u0131n b\u00f6lgesel yorumlar\u0131\n\n\n\n\u00d6zg\u00fcn versiyon olan Tom Saap Neua, s\u0131\u011f\u0131r kemiklerini, bir miktar i\u015fkembeyi ve yaban\u0131ms\u0131 notay\u0131 yumu\u015fatan nane yapraklar\u0131n\u0131 korur. Bangkok\u2019un g\u00f6zdesi Tom Saap Kraduk Moo ise ilk lokmada kemikten ayr\u0131lan domuz kaburgalar\u0131yla \u00f6ne \u00e7\u0131kar. \n\n\n\nSitede pad see ew'den yeterince s\u00f6z etmiyorum; al\u0131n, bu da benden olsun\n\n\n\nBir Leng Saap sipari\u015f edin, mutfaktan ayn\u0131 et suyuna g\u00f6m\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f bir domuz boyun kemi\u011fi kulesi gelir; biberler, ge\u00e7it t\u00f6reninden sonra yere sa\u00e7\u0131lm\u0131\u015f konfetiler gibi omurlara yap\u0131\u015f\u0131r. Ev a\u015f\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131 ise tarifi esnetir : Melbourne\u2019de tavuk kanatlar\u0131, Khon Kaen\u2019de dereotlu yay\u0131n bal\u0131\u011f\u0131, hatta vejetaryen konuklar i\u00e7in y\u00fczde 100 mantarl\u0131 yorumlar. \n\n\n\nYine de her yorum iki temel s\u00fctunu korur : berrakl\u0131k ve \u00e7arp\u0131c\u0131 lezzet. Forumlarda tart\u0131\u015fmalar, monosodyum glutamat\u0131 (MSG) on iki saat kaynam\u0131\u015f kemik suyuyla kar\u015f\u0131 kar\u015f\u0131ya getirir; Minnesota\u2019da uzun ki\u015fni\u015f bulunur mu, galangal tozu zor durumda i\u015fe yarar m\u0131 diye konu\u015fulur (genel kan\u0131 : pek de\u011fil). Ancak herkes \u015fu konuda hemfikirdir : berrak et suyu, kavrulmu\u015f pirin\u00e7 ve insana d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnmeden \u00ab saap \u00bb dedirten bir asidite.\n\n\n\nBu yemekten bir k\u00e2se ikram etmek, b\u00f6lgenin \u00ab saap\u2019\u0131 payla\u015f\u0131n \u00bb anlay\u0131\u015f\u0131n\u0131, \u0e41\u0e0a\u0e23\u0e4c\u0e04\u0e27\u0e32\u0e21\u0e41\u0e0b\u0e48\u0e1a, tatlar\u0131 ve dostlu\u011fu masa etraf\u0131nda dola\u015ft\u0131rarak hayata ge\u00e7irmek demektir. K\u0131rsal ruhunu koruyan ama zarif kalabilen bu yemek, narenciyeyle duman\u0131, terle teselliyi, k\u00f6y yollar\u0131yla \u015fehir neonlar\u0131n\u0131 ayn\u0131 k\u00e2sede bulu\u015fturur. \n\n\n\n\u0130ster Khon Kaen\u2019deki bir gece pazar\u0131 kazan\u0131ndan, ister kendi tencerenizden y\u00fckselsin, limon otu ve misket limonu kokan buhar sizi ka\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 yeniden dald\u0131rmaya, ard\u0131ndan \u0e41\u0e0b\u0e1a \u0e2d\u0e35\u0e2b\u0e25\u0e35 \u2013 \u00ab ger\u00e7ekten leziz \u00bb s\u00f6z\u00fcn\u00fc f\u0131s\u0131ldamaya \u00e7a\u011f\u0131r\u0131r.\n\n\n\n\n\n\tOtantik Tom Saap - Isan usul\u00fc ek\u015fi ac\u0131l\u0131 \u00e7orba\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t500 g domuz k\u0131k\u0131rda\u011f\u0131 par\u00e7alar\u0131 (kaburga ucu ya da spare rib kullan\u0131n; k\u0131k\u0131rdakl\u0131, k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck kemikli par\u00e7alar tercih edin...)3 litre su1 yemek ka\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 olgun galangal (ince k\u0131y\u0131lm\u0131\u015f, kuru kavrulmu\u015f)2 yemek ka\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 limon otu (ince do\u011franm\u0131\u015f, kuru kavrulmu\u015f)4 arpac\u0131k so\u011fan\u0131 (ince dilimlenmi\u015f, kuru kavrulmu\u015f)2 yaprak kombava yapra\u011f\u0131 (ince do\u011franm\u0131\u015f, kuru kavrulmu\u015f)3 k\u00f6k ki\u015fni\u015f k\u00f6k\u00fc (k\u0131y\u0131lm\u0131\u015f, yapraks\u0131z sapla ikame edilebilir, kuru kavrulmu\u015f)2 di\u015f sirkeli sar\u0131msak (hafif\u00e7e ezilmi\u015f, iste\u011fe ba\u011fl\u0131)1 \u00e7ay ka\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 kaya \u015fekeri2 \u00e7ay ka\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 tuz6 yemek ka\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 bal\u0131k sosu4 yemek ka\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 tavuk g\u00f6\u011fs\u00fc (k\u0131y\u0131lm\u0131\u015f (ince dilimlenmi\u015f de\u011fil, k\u0131yma k\u0131vam\u0131nda))4 yemek ka\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 misket limonu suyu (taze s\u0131k\u0131lm\u0131\u015f)1 yemek ka\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 pul biber (kavrulmu\u015f)2 yemek ka\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 kavrulmu\u015f pirin\u00e7 tozu (evde haz\u0131rlanabilir veya Asya marketlerinden sat\u0131n al\u0131nabilir)1 avu\u00e7 ye\u015fil so\u011fan (ince do\u011franm\u0131\u015f)1 avu\u00e7 culantro (ince do\u011franm\u0131\u015f)1 avu\u00e7 Tay fesle\u011feni yapraklar\u0131fesle\u011fen filizleri (servis i\u00e7in, ekstra)\t\n\t\n\t\tSuyu kaynama noktas\u0131na getirin, domuz k\u0131k\u0131rda\u011f\u0131n\u0131 ekleyin. Ate\u015fi k\u0131s\u0131n ve hafif\u00e7e fokurdayacak \u015fekilde yakla\u015f\u0131k 1 saat, yumu\u015fayana kadar pi\u015firin.Bu s\u0131rada galangal\u0131, limon otunu, arpac\u0131k so\u011fanlar\u0131n\u0131, kombava yapraklar\u0131n\u0131 ve ki\u015fni\u015f k\u00f6klerini tavada k\u0131s\u0131k ate\u015fte ya\u011fs\u0131z olarak kavurun. Aromalar\u0131 belirginle\u015fince hepsini ince bir ezme k\u0131vam\u0131na gelene kadar d\u00f6v\u00fcn.Et suyunun ve k\u0131k\u0131rda\u011f\u0131n yar\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir tencereye al\u0131n. Haz\u0131rlad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z ezmenin yar\u0131s\u0131n\u0131, ezilmi\u015f 1 di\u015f sar\u0131msa\u011f\u0131, kaya \u015fekerini, tuzu ve bal\u0131k sosunu ekleyin.K\u0131y\u0131lm\u0131\u015f tavuk g\u00f6\u011fs\u00fcn\u00fc bir kaseye al\u0131n. \u00dczerine biraz s\u0131cak et suyu ekleyip ka\u015f\u0131kla iyice ezin ve da\u011f\u0131t\u0131n. Ard\u0131ndan bu kar\u0131\u015f\u0131m\u0131 tekrar tencereye d\u00f6k\u00fcn.Misket limonu suyu, kavrulmu\u015f pul biber ve kavrulmu\u015f pirin\u00e7 tozunu ekleyerek tatland\u0131r\u0131n. Ye\u015fil so\u011fan\u0131, culantroyu ve fesle\u011fen yapraklar\u0131n\u0131 ilave edin, ard\u0131ndan oca\u011f\u0131 kapat\u0131n.\u00c7orbay\u0131 servis kasesine al\u0131n, taze fesle\u011fen filizleriyle s\u00fcsleyin ve \u00e7ok s\u0131cak servis edin.\t\n\t\n\t\t\nK\u0131y\u0131lm\u0131\u015f tavuk kar\u0131\u015f\u0131m\u0131 \u00e7orbay\u0131 hafif\u00e7e bulan\u0131kla\u015ft\u0131r\u0131r ve Isan restoranlar\u0131nda aranan o hafif kremams\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fc (\u0e19\u0e49\u0e33\u0e02\u0e49\u0e19) kazand\u0131r\u0131r.\nBu tarifte ot ve baharat ezmesi iki tencere \u00e7orbaya yetecek miktarda haz\u0131rlan\u0131r; kalan k\u0131sm\u0131 ikinci bir tencere i\u00e7in kullanabilirsiniz.\nMisket limonu suyunu ekledikten sonra ate\u015fi k\u0131s\u0131k tutun; kuvvetli kaynama, taze narenciye aromas\u0131n\u0131 bast\u0131r\u0131r.\n\n\t\n\t\n\t\tPlat principal, Soupes et bouillonsTha\u00eflandaise","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/145410","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=145410"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/145410\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/93146"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=145410"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=145410"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=145410"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}