{"id":145380,"title":"Otantik Khinkali – Kuzu Etli G\u00fcrc\u00fc Mant\u0131s\u0131","modified":"2026-06-16T15:25:05+02:00","plain":"Kuzu k\u0131ymas\u0131yla doldurulmu\u015f, kekikle lezzetlendirilmi\u015f nefis G\u00fcrc\u00fc mant\u0131lar\u0131\n\n\n\n\u0130lk lokmada kar\u015f\u0131n\u0131za sadece buhar ve s\u00fcrpriz \u00e7\u0131kar. Bu mant\u0131y\u0131 pileli tepesinden tutup kald\u0131r\u0131rs\u0131n\u0131z. Yandan usulca \u0131s\u0131r\u0131rs\u0131n\u0131z ve p\u015f\u015f\u015ft! T\u0131pk\u0131 bir xiao long bao gibi, dilinizi kavuracak kadar s\u0131cak et suyu a\u011fz\u0131n\u0131za dolar; \u00e7enenizden s\u00fcz\u00fcl\u00fcr, fazla yakla\u015f\u0131rsan\u0131z g\u00f6zl\u00fcklerinizi bu\u011fuland\u0131r\u0131r. Da\u011flardan bir nine buna g\u00fcl\u00fcp \u015f\u00f6yle derdi : \u00ab \u00c7enenizden su akmad\u0131ysa, khinkaliyi do\u011fru yemiyorsunuz demektir. \u00bb \n\n\n\nG\u00fcrcistan\u2019\u0131n Y\u00fcksek Kafkasya b\u00f6lgesinde \u00e7obanlar i\u00e7in pratik bir \u00f6\u011f\u00fcn olarak do\u011fan bu yemek, zamanla Tiflis\u2019te ve \u00f6tesinde bira sofralar\u0131n\u0131n vazge\u00e7ilmezi, ulusal bir misafirperverlik simgesine d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc. \n\n\n\nXiao long bao\u2019ya neredeyse ay\u0131rt edilemeyecek kadar benziyorlar\n\n\n\nY\u00fcksek Kafkasya\u2019da do\u011fu\u015fu : efsaneler & tarih\n\n\n\nSo\u011fu\u011fu savan mant\u0131\n\n\n\nKhinkali, G\u00fcrc\u00fc edebiyat\u0131nda olduk\u00e7a erken bir tarihte kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za \u00e7\u0131kar : Sulkhan-Saba Orbeliani taraf\u0131ndan derlenen 18. y\u00fczy\u0131l ba\u015flar\u0131na ait bir s\u00f6zl\u00fckte, khinkalinin atas\u0131 say\u0131lan, et suyuyla doldurulmu\u015f bir hamur topu olan \u00ab dumi\u2019s shashkha \u00bb an\u0131l\u0131r; Prenses Barbare Jorjadze\u2019nin yemek kitab\u0131 (1874) ise bug\u00fcn bildi\u011fimiz yaz\u0131m\u0131 sabitler. Folklor ise do\u011fal olarak daha da eskiye uzan\u0131r. \n\n\n\nTu\u015feti\u2019den bir efsane, bu yeme\u011fin icad\u0131n\u0131 bir khevisberi (k\u00f6y b\u00fcy\u00fc\u011f\u00fc) olan adam\u0131n becerikli e\u015fi Khinda\u2019ya atfeder; Khinda, beklenmedik bir konu\u011fu a\u011f\u0131rlamak i\u00e7in un ve koyun etinden mant\u0131lar yapm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Bir ba\u015fka anlat\u0131ysa \u201cm\u00fckemmel\u201d bir khinkalinin yirmi sekiz k\u0131vr\u0131m\u0131n\u0131 28 y\u0131ll\u0131k g\u00fcne\u015f d\u00f6ng\u00fcs\u00fcne ba\u011flar; bu da Kafkasya\u2019n\u0131n Hristiyanl\u0131k \u00f6ncesi g\u00fcne\u015f k\u00fcltlerine bir g\u00f6nderme gibidir.\n\n\n\nKalguksu, tek kelimeyle nefis bir Kore eri\u015fte yeme\u011fidir\n\n\n\nTarih daha az \u015fiirseldir ama bir o kadar da canl\u0131d\u0131r : Tu\u015feti, P\u015favi ve Hevsureti \u00e7obanlar\u0131n\u0131n heybede ta\u015f\u0131nabilecek, d\u00f6kme demir kazanda pi\u015firilebilecek ve buz kesmi\u015f parmaklar\u0131 \u0131s\u0131tacak bir ak\u015fam yeme\u011fine ihtiyac\u0131 vard\u0131. \n\n\n\nSofran\u0131n bir ba\u015fka G\u00fcrc\u00fc hazinesi: nar gibi k\u0131zarm\u0131\u015f, peynir dolu ha\u00e7apuriler\n\n\n\nEt, so\u011fan ve da\u011f otlar\u0131 i\u00e7eri \u00e7i\u011f olarak konurdu; eriyen kardan elde edilen kaynar su gerisini halleder, ya\u011f\u0131 ve kolajeni \u015fifa gibi gelen bir et suyunun i\u00e7inde hapsederdi. Ova t\u00fcccarlar\u0131 19. y\u00fczy\u0131lda bu yeme\u011fi benimsedi\u011finde, khinkali \u00e7oktan do\u011fdu\u011fu sert co\u011frafyan\u0131n s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131n\u0131 a\u015fm\u0131\u015ft\u0131; ama kamp ate\u015fi duman\u0131n\u0131n ve uzun k\u0131\u015flar\u0131n kokusunu hi\u00e7 kaybetmemi\u015fti.\n\n\n\n\u00d6zg\u00fcnl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn anatomisi : hamur, i\u00e7 har\u00e7, k\u0131vr\u0131mlar\n\n\n\nEv yap\u0131m\u0131 gyoza hamurunun G\u00fcrc\u00fc kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00f6zellikle sa\u011flamd\u0131r : yaln\u0131zca un, su ve tuzla yap\u0131l\u0131r; bir g\u00fcre\u015f\u00e7inin \u00f6n kolu kadar diren\u00e7li olana dek yo\u011frulur. Baz\u0131 nineler daha iyi tutsun diye bir yumurta ekler (tamamen iste\u011fe ba\u011fl\u0131d\u0131r, gelene\u011fin vazge\u00e7ilmez bir par\u00e7as\u0131 de\u011fildir). \n\n\n\nHamur disklerini a\u00e7arken orta k\u0131sm\u0131n yakla\u015f\u0131k iki ila \u00fc\u00e7 milimetre kal\u0131nl\u0131\u011f\u0131nda kalmas\u0131na dikkat edin. Kenarlar ise neredeyse par\u015f\u00f6men inceli\u011fine gelene kadar inceltilmelidir; b\u00f6ylece i\u00e7erideki kaynar su co\u015ftu\u011funda hamur y\u0131rt\u0131lmaz.\n\n\n\nGer\u00e7ek da\u011f usul\u00fc i\u00e7 har\u00e7ta tercih kuzu ya da koyun etidir; baz\u0131 vadilerde buna biraz dana eti de eklenir. Kar\u0131\u015f\u0131ma iri \u00e7ekilmi\u015f omuz eti, so\u011fan, tuz, iri d\u00f6v\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f karabiber ve bir tutam kondari (yaz keki\u011fi, bazen de yabani kekik) kat\u0131l\u0131r.\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBir kep\u00e7e \u0131l\u0131k su, kar\u0131\u015f\u0131m\u0131 neredeyse ak\u0131\u015fkan h\u00e2le getirir ; pi\u015ferken de o \u00e7ok aranan sulu i\u00e7i olu\u015fturur. En az on sekiz k\u0131vr\u0131m yap\u0131n, ard\u0131ndan s\u0131k\u0131ca burup kudi ad\u0131 verilen, elinizle tutaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131z kal\u0131n \u201csap\u0131\u201d olu\u015fturun. Her ayr\u0131nt\u0131 (az baharat, ya\u011f oran\u0131 y\u00fcksek et, diren\u00e7li bir hamur) tek bir amaca hizmet eder : suyu i\u00e7inde hapsetmek ve lezzeti yo\u011funla\u015ft\u0131rmak.\n\n\n\nDa\u011f khinkalisi ile \u015fehir khinkalisi \n\n\n\nKhinkali da\u011f yama\u00e7lar\u0131ndan Tiflis meyhanelerine indi\u011finde, kullan\u0131lan et de pazar\u0131n ger\u00e7eklerine uydu. Kuzu, daha ucuz ve daha ya\u011fl\u0131 olan domuz-dana kar\u0131\u015f\u0131m\u0131na yerini b\u0131rakt\u0131. \n\n\n\nYaz keki\u011fi (ya da yabani kekik) bulamayan a\u015f\u00e7\u0131lar kimyona y\u00f6neldi; kar\u0131\u015f\u0131ma maydanoz ve ki\u015fni\u015f de eklendi ve bug\u00fcn neredeyse her yerde kar\u015f\u0131n\u0131za \u00e7\u0131kan kalakuri ya da \u201c\u015fehir usul\u00fc\u201d b\u00f6yle do\u011fdu. Yine de neon \u0131\u015f\u0131kl\u0131 b\u00fcfelerde bile temel kurallar de\u011fi\u015fmez. \u0130\u00e7 har\u00e7 h\u00e2l\u00e2 \u00e7i\u011f haz\u0131rlan\u0131r, sar\u0131msak \u00e7o\u011fu zaman d\u0131\u015far\u0131da b\u0131rak\u0131l\u0131r ve g\u00f6steri\u015fli soslar h\u00e2l\u00e2 tabudur. Kabul g\u00f6ren tek dokunu\u015f, \u00fczerine serpilen karabiberdir.\n\n\n\nBir G\u00fcrc\u00fc\u2019ye sahtesini nas\u0131l anlayaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 sorun; size hemen k\u0131sa bir liste s\u0131ralar : \u00f6nceden pi\u015firilmi\u015f et, tek lokmal\u0131k minik boylar, reng\u00e2renk baharat kar\u0131\u015f\u0131mlar\u0131 ya da (k\u00fcf\u00fcrlerin en b\u00fcy\u00fc\u011f\u00fc) yan\u0131nda ket\u00e7ap. \n\n\n\n\u0130ster \u015fehirli ister da\u011fl\u0131 olsun, \u00f6zg\u00fcnl\u00fck h\u00e2l\u00e2 \u00fc\u00e7 temel unsura dayan\u0131r : avuca s\u0131\u011fan bir boyut, suyu i\u00e7inde tutacak kadar s\u0131k\u0131 k\u0131vr\u0131mlar ve ba\u011f\u0131rmadan kendini hissettiren bir aroma dengesi.\n\n\n\n\n\n\tOtantik Khinkali \u2013 Kuzu Etli G\u00fcrc\u00fc Mant\u0131s\u0131\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t1.2 kg kuzu k\u0131ymas\u0131 (tercihen elde \u00e7ekilmi\u015f; en sulu sonu\u00e7 i\u00e7in %30-%40 ya\u011f oranl\u0131)20 g taze kekik (ince do\u011franm\u0131\u015f)3 so\u011fan (k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck boy, ince k\u0131y\u0131lm\u0131\u015f)0.5 \u00e7ay ka\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 tuzTuzlu su kar\u0131\u015f\u0131m\u0131tuz (makarna suyu kadar tuzlu olacak miktarda)200 ml \u0131l\u0131k su0.5 yemek ka\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 toz biberHamur1 yumurta1 kg un (y\u00fcksek proteinli; tercihen T65 veya %10-11 protein oran\u0131na sahip)460 ml s\u0131cak su1 yemek ka\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 tuzPi\u015firme4 L su (iyice tuzlanm\u0131\u015f)\t\n\t\n\t\tHamurHamuru s\u0131cak su, yumurta ve tuzla sert bir k\u0131vam alana kadar yo\u011furun.Hamur sert olaca\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in uzun s\u00fcre yo\u011furun.\u00dczerini \u00f6rt\u00fcn ve en az 30 dakika dinlendirin.\u0130\u00e7 har\u00e7\u00d6nce tuzlu su kar\u0131\u015f\u0131m\u0131n\u0131 haz\u0131rlay\u0131n: tuzu \u0131l\u0131k suda \u00e7\u00f6z\u00fcn, ard\u0131ndan toz biberi ekleyin.\u00dczerini kapat\u0131n ve oda s\u0131cakl\u0131\u011f\u0131nda yakla\u015f\u0131k 40 dereceye kadar so\u011fumaya b\u0131rak\u0131n.Geni\u015f bir kapta kuzu k\u0131ymas\u0131n\u0131, do\u011franm\u0131\u015f so\u011fan\u0131 ve keki\u011fi kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131n.Tuzlu su kar\u0131\u015f\u0131m\u0131n\u0131 azar azar ekleyin ve kuvvetlice kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131n.\u0130\u00e7 harc\u0131, hamurun \u00fczerine koydu\u011funuzda top gibi duracak k\u0131vamda tutun.\u015eekillendirmeHamuru 2 veya 3 par\u00e7aya b\u00f6l\u00fcn.Par\u00e7alardan birini b\u00fcy\u00fck\u00e7e bir yuvarlak halinde a\u00e7\u0131n, ard\u0131ndan yakla\u015f\u0131k 4 cm \u00e7ap\u0131nda daireler kesin.Parmaklar\u0131n\u0131z\u0131 yumruk yaparak her dairenin ortas\u0131na bast\u0131r\u0131n, ard\u0131ndan yaln\u0131zca kenarlar\u0131n\u0131 merdaneyle inceltin.Ortay\u0131 y\u0131rt\u0131lmamas\u0131 i\u00e7in daha kal\u0131n b\u0131rak\u0131n; ince kenarlar ise kolayca pilelenir ve g\u00fczelce pi\u015fer.Ortaya bir ka\u015f\u0131k i\u00e7 har\u00e7 koyun, kenarlar\u0131 nazik\u00e7e toplay\u0131n ve k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir \u201cboh\u00e7a\u201d olu\u015fturacak \u015fekilde birbirine bast\u0131r\u0131n.Pi\u015firmeB\u00fcy\u00fck bir tencerede en az 4 L bol tuzlu suyu kaynat\u0131n.Khinkalileri kaynar suya b\u0131rak\u0131n.Yap\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131n\u0131 \u00f6nlemek i\u00e7in bir kez nazik\u00e7e kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131n.Yakla\u015f\u0131k 7 ila 8 dakika, y\u00fczeye \u00e7\u0131kana kadar harl\u0131 suda pi\u015firin.Tencereyi fazla doldurmay\u0131n; gerekirse khinkalilerin rahat\u00e7a hareket edebilmesi i\u00e7in k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck gruplar h\u00e2linde pi\u015firin.Her bir khinkalinin hamuru pi\u015fip h\u00e2l\u00e2 diri kald\u0131\u011f\u0131nda, pilelerin yumu\u015fay\u0131p hamurla\u015fmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 ve al dente kal\u0131p kalmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 kontrol edin.Khinkalileri delikli kep\u00e7eyle \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131n.\t\n\t\n\t\t\n\u0130\u00e7 harc\u0131n yumu\u015fak ve sulu olmas\u0131 i\u00e7in yeterli ya\u011f oran\u0131na sahip kuzu eti kullan\u0131n.\nHamur, pi\u015firme s\u0131ras\u0131nda formunu korumas\u0131 i\u00e7in sert olmal\u0131 ve uzun s\u00fcre yo\u011furulmal\u0131d\u0131r.\nKhinkalilerin birbirine yap\u0131\u015fmamas\u0131 i\u00e7in pi\u015firme s\u0131ras\u0131nda tencereyi fazla doldurmay\u0131n.\n\n\t\n\t\n\t\tPlat principalG\u00e9orgienne","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/145380","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=145380"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/145380\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36371"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=145380"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=145380"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=145380"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}