{"id":144839,"title":"Baozi – \u00c7in Usul\u00fc Buharda Pi\u015fmi\u015f Dolgulu \u00c7\u00f6rekler","modified":"2026-06-16T15:00:37+02:00","plain":"\u0130ster Pekin\u2019in hutonglar\u0131nda ister Flushing\u2019deki bir yeme-i\u00e7me alan\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcnde olun, bambu bir sepetin kapa\u011f\u0131 kalkt\u0131\u011f\u0131nda manzara hep ayn\u0131d\u0131r: t\u0131slayan buhar, havaya yay\u0131lan \u0131l\u0131k bu\u011fday kokusu ve parlak y\u00fczeyli, tombul \u00e7\u00f6rek s\u0131ralar\u0131. Sat\u0131c\u0131lar har\u0131l har\u0131l \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131r; kapaklar \u015faklar, ma\u015falar birbirine de\u011fer.\u00a0\n\n\n\nBao ya da baozi, \u00c7in\u2019de en \u00e7ok t\u00fcketilen yiyeceklerden biridir; benim i\u00e7in de \u00f6yle. \u0130\u00e7indeki her \u015fey cezbedicidir: hamurun yumu\u015fac\u0131k dokusu da, say\u0131s\u0131z denemeyle kusursuzla\u015ft\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f i\u00e7 harc\u0131n yo\u011fun lezzeti de.\n\n\n\nUn, su ve k\u0131yman\u0131n o m\u00fctevaz\u0131 \u00fc\u00e7l\u00fcs\u00fcn\u00fcn ard\u0131nda \u00f6ylesine k\u00f6kl\u00fc bir ustal\u0131k yatar ki, Kuzey \u00c7in\u2019de ustalar bir \u00e7\u00f6re\u011fin kalitesini anlamak i\u00e7in h\u00e2l\u00e2 katlar\u0131n\u0131 sayar. Kafelerin art\u0131k aktif k\u00f6m\u00fcrl\u00fc kreplerden tr\u00fcfl\u00fc patates k\u0131zartmalar\u0131na kadar her \u015feyi sundu\u011fu bir \u00fclkede, ger\u00e7ek bir baoziyi neyin tan\u0131mlad\u0131\u011f\u0131na dair tart\u0131\u015fmalar forumlar\u0131 h\u00e2l\u00e2 alevlendiriyor. Mesele, basit bir \u00f6\u011fle yeme\u011finin \u00e7ok \u00f6tesine uzan\u0131yor: kusursuz bir baoziyi \u0131s\u0131rmak, \u00c7in mutfak zek\u00e2s\u0131n\u0131n ve g\u00fcndelik konfor yemeklerinin on sekiz y\u00fczy\u0131ll\u0131k birikimine dokunmak demek.\n\n\n\nJapon versiyonu olan nikuman'\u0131 da ke\u015ffedin\n\n\n\nMantou efsanelerinden imparatorluk sofralar\u0131na : 1 800 y\u0131ll\u0131k tarih\n\n\n\n\u0130\u00e7i dolgulu k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck \u00e7\u00f6re\u011fe dair ilk anlat\u0131, stratejiyle fedak\u00e2rl\u0131\u011f\u0131n kesi\u015fti\u011fi bir hik\u00e2yedir. MS III. y\u00fczy\u0131l civar\u0131nda stratejist Zhuge Liang\u2019\u0131n, insan ba\u015flar\u0131n\u0131 taklit etmek i\u00e7in etin etraf\u0131na hamur sard\u0131\u011f\u0131, ard\u0131ndan ruhlar\u0131n askerlerine g\u00fcvenli ge\u00e7i\u015f vermesi i\u00e7in bu \u00e7\u00f6rekleri co\u015fkun bir nehre att\u0131\u011f\u0131 s\u00f6ylenir. Ger\u00e7ek olsun ya da olmas\u0131n, bu hik\u00e2ye \u015fu fikri yerle\u015ftirir : bu\u011fday hamuru yaln\u0131zca i\u00e7 harc\u0131 de\u011fil, anlam\u0131 da sar\u0131p sarmalayabilir.\n\n\n\nSong d\u00f6neminde (960-1279), \u201cbaozi\u201d kelimesi pazar kay\u0131tlar\u0131nda bir a\u015f\u00e7\u0131n\u0131n hayallerini s\u00fcsleyecek dolgular\u0131n yan\u0131nda kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za \u00e7\u0131kar : kuzulu mantou, yenge\u00e7 yumurtas\u0131, hatta \u015fekerle konfi edilmi\u015f domuz eti. Tang d\u00f6neminde Chang\u2019an\u2019daki saray a\u015f\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131 ise daha da ileri gider, ay\u0131 ya\u011f\u0131 ve av etini y\u00faji\u0101nmian ad\u0131 verilen bir lezzetin i\u00e7ine yerle\u015ftirirdi : Tang Gastronomi Y\u0131ll\u0131klar\u0131\u2019na g\u00f6re imparatorluk saray\u0131, ekme\u011fin i\u00e7inde bile ihti\u015fam arard\u0131.\n\n\n\nQing Hanedan\u0131\u2019n\u0131n sonlar\u0131na gelelim. 1858\u2019de liman ve demiryolu kenti Tianjin\u2019de, modern kuzey tarz\u0131n\u0131 \u015fekillendiren Goubuli d\u00fckk\u00e2n\u0131 do\u011far : yar\u0131 mayal\u0131 hamur, sulu domuz eti ve yerel gelene\u011fe g\u00f6re tam on sekiz kat. Daha sonra demiryolunun yay\u0131lmas\u0131yla birlikte seyyar sat\u0131c\u0131lar Goubuli \u00e7\u00f6reklerini Kuzey\u2019in istasyonlar\u0131nda yayg\u0131nla\u015ft\u0131r\u0131r. Y\u00fczy\u0131llar i\u00e7inde baozi, rit\u00fcel bir sunudan sokak at\u0131\u015ft\u0131rmal\u0131\u011f\u0131na d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc; ama her buhar bulutu h\u00e2l\u00e2 biraz efsane ve k\u00f6k kokusu ta\u015f\u0131r.\n\n\n\nGer\u00e7ek baozi nas\u0131l ay\u0131rt edilir?\n\n\n\nD\u0131\u015f hamur, y\u00fcksek glutenli bu\u011fday unu, su ve bir par\u00e7a eski maya (ya da ekmek mayas\u0131) ile haz\u0131rlan\u0131r. Hamur \u00f6nce yar\u0131ya kadar kabar\u0131r; ard\u0131ndan asiditeyi dengeleyip gluten yap\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 s\u0131k\u0131la\u015ft\u0131rmak i\u00e7in biraz alkalin su eklenir. B\u00f6ylece pi\u015fti\u011finde i\u00e7 dokusu hem havadar hem de esnek kal\u0131r. \u0130deal hamur, \u00e7i\u011f kaju tonunda olmal\u0131d\u0131r; dim\u00a0sum tezg\u00e2hlar\u0131n\u0131n y\u0131ld\u0131z\u0131 olan Kanton usul\u00fc char siu\u00a0baolar gibi parlak beyaz de\u011fil. O beyazl\u0131k, a\u011fart\u0131lm\u0131\u015f un ve \u00e7o\u011fu zaman az miktarda kabartma tozu sayesinde elde edilir.\n\n\n\nKatlama i\u015fi tam bir koreografi gibidir. Deneyimli sat\u0131c\u0131lar, hamur yuvarla\u011f\u0131n\u0131 yava\u015f ve spiral bir k\u0131st\u0131rma hareketiyle y\u00f6nlendirerek \u00e7\u00f6re\u011fi m\u00fch\u00fcrleyen bir b\u00fczg\u00fc halkas\u0131 olu\u015fturur (Tianjin\u2019de geleneksel olarak on sekiz kat). Buhar sepetinde a\u00e7\u0131lan bir diki\u015f, g\u00f6zle g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcr bir kusura i\u015faret eder : el i\u015f\u00e7ili\u011fi, bu lezzetin ayr\u0131lmaz par\u00e7as\u0131d\u0131r.\n\n\n\n\u0130\u00e7 har\u00e7 neredeyse ak\u0131\u015fkan davran\u0131r. \u0130ri k\u0131y\u0131lm\u0131\u015f domuz omzu (yakla\u015f\u0131k %70 ya\u011fs\u0131z, %30 ya\u011fl\u0131), kendi a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n neredeyse be\u015fte biri kadar\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7ekene dek so\u011futulmu\u015f et suyuyla \u00e7\u0131rp\u0131l\u0131r; b\u00f6ylece parlak ve esnek bir k\u0131vam kazan\u0131r. Soya sosu, Shaoxing \u015farab\u0131, zencefil ve taze so\u011fan bu kar\u0131\u015f\u0131ma aroma verir; son dokunu\u015f olarak eklenen birka\u00e7 damla kavrulmu\u015f susam ya\u011f\u0131 ise lezzeti derinle\u015ftirir. \n\n\n\nSebzeler (lahana, turp ya da k\u0131\u015f\u0131n rezene yapraklar\u0131) tuzlan\u0131r; ard\u0131ndan ete kat\u0131lmadan \u00f6nce iyice s\u0131k\u0131larak sular\u0131 al\u0131n\u0131r. Ama\u00e7 : di\u015finiz hamuru deler delmez lezzetli suyunu salan, sulu bir i\u00e7 doku elde etmek. P\u00fcristler ek\u015fi maya ile instant maya konusunda tart\u0131\u015fabilir; ama tek bir noktada bulu\u015furlar : hamur ince, i\u00e7 har\u00e7 c\u00f6mert olmal\u0131; pi\u015firme de f\u0131r\u0131nda de\u011fil, mutlaka buharda yap\u0131lmal\u0131d\u0131r.\n\n\n\nBaozi\u2019nin farkl\u0131 \u00e7e\u015fitleri\n\n\n\nSabah\u0131n erken saatlerinde hangi y\u00f6ne giden bir trene binerseniz binin, baozi\u2019nin tan\u0131m\u0131 biraz daha geni\u015fler. Tianjin\u2019de klasik kabul edilen domuz etli versiyon, ayn\u0131 sepette karides ve yumurtayla lezzetlendirilen \u201c\u00dc\u00e7 Lezzet\u201d \u00e7e\u015fitleriyle yer bulur.\n\n\n\n\u015eanghay, xiaolongbao i\u00e7in neredeyse saydam, \u00e7ok az mayalanm\u0131\u015f ya da mayas\u0131z bir hamur zarf\u0131n\u0131 tercih eder; shengjianbao'da ise susaml\u0131, alt\u0131 \u00e7\u0131t\u0131r bir taban elde etmek i\u00e7in hamuru k\u0131zart\u0131r. Kantonlu ustalar unlar\u0131n\u0131 a\u011fart\u0131r, hamuru hafif\u00e7e tatland\u0131r\u0131r ve char siu sosunun i\u00e7 dokuyu k\u0131z\u0131l\u0131ms\u0131 bronz bir renge boyamas\u0131na izin verir; \u00fcst y\u00fczey de ay\u0131rt edici \u00fc\u00e7 \u00e7atlakla a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131r.\n\n\n\nSheng jian bao\n\n\n\nRotay\u0131 bat\u0131ya \u00e7evirin : Uygur sat\u0131c\u0131lar, kuzu etiyle doldurduklar\u0131 kao baozi'leri tand\u0131r\u0131n k\u0131zg\u0131n duvarlar\u0131na yap\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131r. G\u00fcney \u00c7in Denizi\u2019nin \u00f6tesinde ise, zerde\u00e7alla kokuland\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f patatesli bir k\u00f6ri ile doldurulan Malezya usul\u00fc pau\u2019lar etrafa nefis kokular yayarken, Filipin usul\u00fc siopao\u2019lar soya sosunda a\u011f\u0131r a\u011f\u0131r pi\u015fmi\u015f adobo tavu\u011funu i\u00e7inde saklar. \n\n\n\nNefis adobo tavu\u011fu\n\n\n\nNankin \u00dcniversitesi\u2019nden yemek antropolo\u011fu Yan\u00a0X. Li\u2019ye ve Food Heritage dergisinde yay\u0131mlanan \u00e7e\u015fitli \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalara g\u00f6re, bu\u011fday hamuru art\u0131k buharda pi\u015fmiyorsa bu yemek baozi say\u0131lmaz. \u00c7e\u015fitlilik bu kimli\u011fi zay\u0131flatmaz; aksine, tek bir fikrin yumu\u015fac\u0131k ruhunu kaybetmeden ne kadar esneyebildi\u011fini g\u00f6sterir.\n\n\n\nBao yapman\u0131n p\u00fcf noktalar\u0131\n\n\n\nHamurda \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fclere mutlaka sad\u0131k kal\u0131n! Yine de kulland\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z unun t\u00fcr\u00fcne g\u00f6re ihtiya\u00e7 duyulan su miktar\u0131 de\u011fi\u015febilir. Do\u011fru k\u0131vam\u0131 bulmak i\u00e7in en b\u00fcy\u00fck yard\u0131mc\u0131n\u0131z deneyim olacakt\u0131r.\n\n\n\nHamur yap\u0131\u015f\u0131yorsa, \u00e7al\u0131\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z y\u00fczeyleri unlamak i\u00e7in m\u0131s\u0131r ni\u015fastas\u0131 kullan\u0131n; ger\u00e7ekten \u00e7ok iyi sonu\u00e7 verir! \n\n\n\nBu tarif biraz zaman ister; ama o ilk b\u00fcy\u00fck lokmay\u0131 ald\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z anda b\u00fct\u00fcn eme\u011fe de\u011fdi\u011fini anlars\u0131n\u0131z. Sonu\u00e7 ger\u00e7ekten nefis. \n\n\n\nBenzer bir i\u00e7 harc\u0131 \u00c7in usul\u00fc mant\u0131 tarifimde de kullan\u0131yorum\n\n\n\n\n\n\tBaozi - \u00c7in usul\u00fc buharda pi\u015fmi\u015f yumu\u015fak \u00e7\u00f6rekler\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\tHAMUR250 g bu\u011fday unu5 g tuz8 g \u015feker4 g instant kuru maya3 g kabartma tozu130 g su\u0130\u00c7 HAR\u00c7140 g \u00c7in lahanas\u01312 taze so\u011fan400 g domuz k\u0131ymas\u01313 yemek ka\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131k soya sosu1 \u00e7ay ka\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 susam ya\u011f\u01311 \u00e7ay ka\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 Shaoxing \u015farab\u01310.5 \u00e7ay ka\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 ince k\u0131y\u0131lm\u0131\u015f zencefil1 \u00e7ay ka\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 tuz2 yumurta1 yemek ka\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 m\u0131s\u0131r ni\u015fastas\u01313 yemek ka\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 su veya domuz\/tavuk suyu\t\n\t\n\t\t\u0130\u00c7 HAR\u00c7 HAZIRLANI\u015eILahanay\u0131 kaynar suda 5 dakika ha\u015flay\u0131n, ard\u0131ndan so\u011fumaya b\u0131rak\u0131n.Bu s\u0131rada domuz eti hari\u00e7 t\u00fcm malzemeleri ince ince do\u011fray\u0131p kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131n.Lahanay\u0131 ince ince do\u011fray\u0131n, fazla suyunu s\u0131k\u0131n ve di\u011fer malzemelere ekleyin.Domuz etini ekleyin ve bir ka\u015f\u0131kla 5 dakika boyunca kuvvetlice kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131n. Her zaman ayn\u0131 y\u00f6nde kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131n. En az 1 saat buzdolab\u0131nda dinlendirin.HAMUR HAZIRLANI\u015eIT\u00fcm malzemeleri kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131n, 10 dakika yo\u011furun ve hamuru yakla\u015f\u0131k 1 saat, iki kat\u0131na \u00e7\u0131kana kadar mayaland\u0131r\u0131n.Hamuru 4 e\u015fit bezeye b\u00f6l\u00fcn, merdaneyle a\u00e7\u0131n ve i\u00e7 har\u00e7la baozileri \u015fekillendirin.15 dakika buharda pi\u015firin.\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\tDim sum, Entr\u00e9eChinoise","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/144839","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=144839"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/144839\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/157"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=144839"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=144839"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=144839"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}