{"id":170379,"title":"Mizutaki \u2013 fondue japonez de pui","modified":"2026-09-13T17:25:03+02:00","plain":"Fondue-ul de pui din Hakata: o sup\u0103 preg\u0103tit\u0103 doar cu ap\u0103 simpl\u0103, legume g\u0103tite direct la mas\u0103 \u0219i un sos ponzu cu daidai pentru servit.\n\n\n\nAfar\u0103 este frig, oala ajunge \u00een mijlocul mesei \u0219i aburul \u00eencepe s\u0103 se ridice \u00eembietor. Mai \u00eent\u00e2i se serve\u0219te o ce\u0219cu\u021b\u0103 de sup\u0103 limpede, abia s\u0103rat\u0103: gustul de pui este pur, concentrat, f\u0103r\u0103 niciun adaos care s\u0103-i mascheze savoarea. \n\n\n\nApoi \u00eencepe festinul: buc\u0103\u021bile fragede de carne, varza \u00eenc\u0103 crocant\u0103, br\u00e2nza tofu care absoarbe supa bogat\u0103 \u00een colagen \u0219i acest ponzu aromat cu daidai, care taie gr\u0103simea la fiecare \u00eenghi\u021bitur\u0103. \n\n\n\nLa \u00eenceput, nu au fost dec\u00e2t ap\u0103 \u0219i pui. Este cel mai simplu preparat la oal\u0103 din buc\u0103t\u0103ria japonez\u0103 \u0219i, f\u0103r\u0103 \u00eendoial\u0103, unul dintre cele mai greu de uitat.\n\n\n\n\u00cen acela\u0219i spirit de m\u00e2ncare la oal\u0103 \u00eemp\u0103r\u021bit\u0103 cu cei dragi, descoperi\u021bi \u0219i re\u021beta de chanko nabe\n\n\n\nCe este mizutaki?\n\n\n\nMizutaki \u00eenseamn\u0103, la propriu, \u201eg\u0103tit \u00een ap\u0103\u201d: mizu pentru ap\u0103 \u0219i taki pentru fierbere. Supa se prepar\u0103 exclusiv cu ap\u0103 curat\u0103, f\u0103r\u0103 baz\u0103 dashi, f\u0103r\u0103 cuburi concentrate \u0219i f\u0103r\u0103 niciun condiment la \u00eenceput. \n\n\n\nToat\u0103 savoarea provine din carnea de pui cu os: piele, colagen \u0219i m\u0103duv\u0103. \u00cen Hakata (Fukuoka), se adaug\u0103 buc\u0103\u021bi de pulp\u0103 dezosat\u0103, chiftelu\u021be tsukune, varz\u0103 alb\u0103, praz negi, ciuperci \u0219i tofu, iar asezonarea se face direct la mas\u0103: un praf de sare pentru prima ce\u0219cu\u021b\u0103, apoi sos ponzu pentru \u00eenmuiat.\n\n\n\nDou\u0103 stiluri de sup\u0103 coexist\u0103 \u00een Hakata. Kohaku, limpede \u0219i aurie ca chihlimbarul, se men\u021bine la o temperatur\u0103 constant\u0103 de 90\u201395 \u00b0C, fiind spumat\u0103 cu regularitate. Paitan, alb\u0103 \u0219i l\u0103ptoas\u0103, rezult\u0103 dintr-o fierbere viguroas\u0103 de cinci p\u00e2n\u0103 la zece ore, care emulsioneaz\u0103 complet gr\u0103simea \u0219i colagenul. \n\n\n\nAmbele variante sunt la fel de autentice. \u00cen schimb, nabe-ul din Kansai este infuzat cu alge kombu, iar varza chinezeasc\u0103, mult prea apoas\u0103, este evitat\u0103 \u00een re\u021beta tradi\u021bional\u0103 din Hakata.\n\n\n\nChiftelele de pui, numite tsukune, sunt la fel de delicioase g\u0103tite la oal\u0103 ca \u0219i pe frig\u0103rui\n\n\n\nN\u0103scut \u00een Hakata \u00een 1905, la r\u0103scrucea dintre Hong Kong \u0219i Nagasaki\n\n\n\nHeisabur\u014d Hayashida, originar din Nagasaki, a plecat la Hong Kong \u00een 1897, la v\u00e2rsta de numai cincisprezece ani. Acolo a descoperit dou\u0103 tradi\u021bii culinare: consomm\u00e9-urile limpezi de inspira\u021bie britanic\u0103 \u0219i supele chineze\u0219ti fierte \u00eendelung din pui cu os. \u00centors \u00een Japonia, a deschis \u00een 1905 restaurantul Suigetsu \u00een Hakata, \u00een cartierul Susaki. Preparatul s\u0103u s-a numit ini\u021bial \u201eHakata-ni\u201d, devenind ulterior faimos sub numele de mizutaki.\n\n\n\nVersiunea original\u0103 este supa clar\u0103: foc domol, spum\u0103 \u00eendep\u0103rtat\u0103 cu grij\u0103, nuan\u021b\u0103 cald\u0103 de chihlimbar \u0219i un gust umami concentrat. La mijlocul secolului al XX-lea, restaurante renumite precum Shinmiura, fondat \u00een 1910, au impus versiunea alb\u0103, mai opac\u0103 \u0219i cu o textur\u0103 deosebit de catifelat\u0103. Ambele stiluri se servesc \u0219i ast\u0103zi cu m\u00e2ndrie \u00een Fukuoka.\n\n\n\nSosul ponzu reflect\u0103 aceea\u0219i poveste a terroir-ului local. \u00cen restaurantele de tradi\u021bie, citricele daidai din Itoshima, recoltate \u00een lunile decembrie \u0219i ianuarie, sunt stoarse manual pentru a nu elibera uleiurile amare din coaj\u0103, apoi sucul este maturat p\u00e2n\u0103 la un an \u00eenainte de a fi combinat cu sosul de soia. Ora\u0219ul Fukuoka, nod comercial istoric cu continentul asiatic, a transformat acest nabe de pui \u00eentr-un veritabil simbol gastronomic.\n\n\n\nIngredientele principale pentru mizutaki\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPuiul cu os formeaz\u0103 baza aromat\u0103 a supei. Pulpele \u0219i aripile aduc umami, gr\u0103simi fine \u0219i colagenul care ofer\u0103 lichidului acea textur\u0103 onctuoas\u0103. Buc\u0103\u021bile de pulp\u0103 dezosat\u0103, ad\u0103ugate pe parcursul mesei, r\u0103m\u00e2n suculente \u0219i fragede. Chiftelu\u021bele tsukune \u00eembog\u0103\u021besc zeama cu sucurile lor delicioase, absorbind \u00een acela\u0219i timp gustul concentrat din oal\u0103, iar apa rece, proasp\u0103t\u0103 \u0219i filtrat\u0103, asigur\u0103 o baz\u0103 neutr\u0103 perfect\u0103.\n\n\n\nVarza alb\u0103, numit\u0103 kyabetsu, \u00ee\u0219i p\u0103streaz\u0103 textura crocant\u0103 \u0219i o dulcea\u021b\u0103 natural\u0103 f\u0103r\u0103 a dilua supa \u2014 spre deosebire de varza chinezeasc\u0103, ce las\u0103 prea mult\u0103 ap\u0103. Prazul japonez negi, ce poate fi \u00eenlocuit la nevoie cu ceap\u0103 verde groas\u0103, aduce o not\u0103 dulceag\u0103 subtil\u0103, f\u0103r\u0103 a acoperi restul ingredientelor.\n\n\n\nCiupercile shiitake, enoki \u0219i shimeji adaug\u0103 o profunzime savuroas\u0103 \u0219i o varietate pl\u0103cut\u0103 de texturi, de la m\u0103t\u0103sos la crocant. Br\u00e2nza tofu momen, cu consisten\u021b\u0103 ferm\u0103, se \u00eembib\u0103 cu supa bogat\u0103 \u0219i echilibreaz\u0103 perfect \u00eentregul preparat.\n\n\n\nAsezonarea se bazeaz\u0103 pe trei elemente esen\u021biale: un praf de sare de mare pentru prima ce\u0219c\u0103 de sup\u0103, sosul ponzu cu daidai care aduce prospe\u021bime \u0219i aciditate, \u0219i pu\u021bin\u0103 past\u0103 yuzu kosho pentru o not\u0103 citric\u0103 \u0219i picant\u0103.\n\n\n\nLa sf\u00e2r\u0219it, supa r\u0103mas\u0103 se transform\u0103 \u00eentr-un delicios zosui, ad\u0103ug\u00e2nd orez fiert \u0219i un ou b\u0103tut dup\u0103 ce oala a fost luat\u0103 de pe foc. Pute\u021bi opta la fel de bine pentru t\u0103i\u021bei udon sau t\u0103i\u021bei champon. Amidonul absoarbe zeama plin\u0103 de arome, prelungind savoarea puiului p\u00e2n\u0103 la ultima \u00eembuc\u0103tur\u0103.\n\n\n\nV-au r\u0103mas t\u0103i\u021bei udon? Re\u021beta de bukkake udon \u00eei pune \u00een valoare \u00eentr-o manier\u0103 cu totul inedit\u0103\n\n\n\nSecretele reu\u0219itei \u0219i gre\u0219eli de evitat\n\n\n\nTrei reguli de aur garanteaz\u0103 un mizutaki autentic: o sup\u0103 preparat\u0103 doar cu ap\u0103 curat\u0103, o spumare meticuloas\u0103 \u0219i folosirea verzei albe clasice \u00een locul celei chineze\u0219ti. \n\n\n\nVarianta limpede se men\u021bine constant \u00eentre 90 \u0219i 95 \u00b0C, \u00een timp ce varianta alb\u0103 necesit\u0103 o fierbere lung\u0103 \u0219i viguroas\u0103. O sup\u0103 cenu\u0219ie sau tulbure este semnul unei spum\u0103ri neglijate, iar o zeam\u0103 fad\u0103 indic\u0103 o carne prea slab\u0103 sau un timp insuficient de g\u0103tire. \n\n\n\nPentru o carne de pui g\u0103tit\u0103 impecabil \u0219i \u00een deplin\u0103 siguran\u021b\u0103, asigura\u021bi-v\u0103 c\u0103 atinge\u021bi o temperatur\u0103 intern\u0103 de 74 \u00b0C \u00een partea cea mai groas\u0103 a buc\u0103\u021bii.\n\n\n\n\n\n\tMizutaki \u2013 fondue japonez cu pui\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\tSup\u0103 \u0219i pui500 g pulpe de pui cu os (t\u0103iate \u00een buc\u0103\u021bi potrivite)6 aripioare de pui2 L ap\u0103Fondue1 fir de praz (t\u0103iat oblic \u00een felii sub\u021biri)1\/2 varz\u0103 alb\u0103 (t\u0103iat\u0103 \u00een buc\u0103\u021bi mari)1 leg\u0103tur\u0103 shungiku (frunze de crizantem\u0103) (op\u021bional)4 ciuperci shiitake1 pachet ciuperci enoki1 bloc tofu (t\u0103iat cuburi)t\u0103i\u021bei kuzukiri (sau t\u0103i\u021bei harusame, dup\u0103 preferin\u021b\u0103)Pentru serviresos ponzu (pentru servire)sare fin\u0103 (dup\u0103 gust)yakumi (condimente pentru servire) (dup\u0103 gust: past\u0103 yuzu-kosh\u014d, ceap\u0103 verde tocat\u0103 m\u0103runt)Pentru final (zosui)orez fiert (r\u0103cit)1 ou (b\u0103tut u\u0219or)ceap\u0103 verde (tocat\u0103 m\u0103runt, pentru finisare)sos ponzu (un strop, dup\u0103 gust)\t\n\t\n\t\tSup\u0103Op\u0103ri\u021bi pulpele \u0219i aripioarele de pui \u00een ap\u0103 clocotit\u0103 timp de aproximativ 30 de secunde pentru a elimina spuma \u0219i impurit\u0103\u021bile.Transfera\u021bi-le imediat \u00eentr-un bol cu ap\u0103 rece \u0219i cl\u0103ti\u021bi bine orice urm\u0103 de s\u00e2nge sau impurit\u0103\u021bi.Pune\u021bi apa, pulpele \u0219i aripioarele de pui \u00eentr-o oal\u0103 \u00eenc\u0103p\u0103toare, la foc mare.C\u00e2nd \u00eencepe s\u0103 fiarb\u0103, reduce\u021bi flac\u0103ra la minim, \u00eendep\u0103rta\u021bi spuma format\u0103 la suprafa\u021b\u0103 \u0219i l\u0103sa\u021bi s\u0103 fiarb\u0103 la foc domol timp de 2\u20133 ore, p\u00e2n\u0103 c\u00e2nd supa cap\u0103t\u0103 o culoare alb-l\u0103ptoas\u0103.Completa\u021bi din c\u00e2nd \u00een c\u00e2nd cu pu\u021bin\u0103 ap\u0103 cald\u0103 pentru a men\u021bine nivelul ini\u021bial al lichidului.Asamblarea fondue-uluiTransfera\u021bi puiul \u0219i supa \u00eentr-un vas pentru servire la mas\u0103 (sau p\u0103stra\u021bi-le \u00een aceea\u0219i oal\u0103) \u0219i aduce\u021bi-le din nou la punctul de fierbere.Ad\u0103uga\u021bi legumele \u00een func\u021bie de timpul de g\u0103tire necesar (varza, prazul, ciupercile shiitake, enoki, tofu, iar la final frunzele de shungiku) \u0219i l\u0103sa\u021bi-le s\u0103 fiarb\u0103 la foc mic p\u00e2n\u0103 se \u00eenmoaie.Ad\u0103uga\u021bi t\u0103i\u021beii kuzukiri sau harusame, dup\u0103 preferin\u021b\u0103.Savura\u021bi carnea de pui simpl\u0103 sau trecut\u0103 prin sos ponzu \u0219i asezonat\u0103 cu past\u0103 yuzu-kosh\u014d (ori alte garnituri yakumi).Zosui (pentru final)Ad\u0103uga\u021bi orezul fiert \u0219i r\u0103cit \u00een supa r\u0103mas\u0103 \u00een oal\u0103 \u0219i l\u0103sa\u021bi-l s\u0103 dea \u00een clocot.Potrivi\u021bi gustul cu pu\u021bin\u0103 sare, turna\u021bi oul b\u0103tut \u00een fir sub\u021bire, pres\u0103ra\u021bi ceapa verde tocat\u0103 \u0219i des\u0103v\u00e2r\u0219i\u021bi cu un strop de sos ponzu.\t\n\t\n\t\t\nOp\u0103rirea, cl\u0103tirea \u0219i fierberea \u00eendelungat\u0103 la foc mic (2 p\u00e2n\u0103 la 3 ore) a c\u0103rnii de pui cu os confer\u0103 mizutaki-ului din Hakata supa sa specific\u0103, alb-l\u0103ptoas\u0103 \u0219i bogat\u0103 \u00een colagen (\u767d\u6fc1\u30b9\u30fc\u30d7).\nOrdinea tradi\u021bional\u0103 de degustare: savura\u021bi mai \u00eent\u00e2i o cea\u0219c\u0103 din supa concentrat\u0103 de pui (cu pu\u021bin\u0103 sare \u0219i ceap\u0103 verde negi), degusta\u021bi apoi puiul \u0219i legumele al\u0103turi de sos ponzu sau past\u0103 yuzu-kosh\u014d, iar la final preg\u0103ti\u021bi zosui \u00een zeama r\u0103mas\u0103.\n\n\t\n\t\n\t\tPlat 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