{"id":163572,"title":"Hiyajiru autentic \u2013 sup\u0103 rece din Miyazaki","modified":"2026-08-17T19:42:43+02:00","plain":"Bolul rece din Miyazaki : un bulion de miso rumenit \u0219i susan m\u0103cinat, turnat rece ca ghea\u021ba peste orez cu orz \u00eenc\u0103 fierbinte.\n\n\n\nAerul e greu, pofta de m\u00e2ncare a disp\u0103rut \u00eenc\u0103 de la pr\u00e2nz, \u0219i totu\u0219i bolul acesta se gole\u0219te \u00een c\u00e2teva minute. Bulionul iese din frigider, \u00eenc\u0103rcat cu miso rumenit \u0219i susan m\u0103cinat, \u0219i se revars\u0103 peste orezul cu orz \u00eenc\u0103 fierbinte. \n\n\n\nDedesubt, tofu rupt cu m\u00e2na absoarbe bulionul, castravetele r\u0103m\u00e2ne crocant, iar shiso \u0219i myoga trezesc totul \u00een ultima clip\u0103. La Miyazaki, asta se m\u0103n\u00e2nc\u0103 atunci c\u00e2nd c\u0103ldura \u00ee\u021bi taie cheful de g\u0103tit, a\u0219a c\u0103 e perfect pentru momentele \u00een care pur \u0219i simplu \u021bi-e lene.\n\n\n\nUn alt preparat de neratat pe mesele japoneze de var\u0103, hiyayakko se serve\u0219te tot rece\n\n\n\nCe este hiyajiru ?\n\n\n\nHiyajiru (\u51b7\u3084\u6c41) \u00eenseamn\u0103 \u201esup\u0103 rece\u201d, dar versiunea din Miyazaki este mult mai bine definit\u0103 dec\u00e2t las\u0103 s\u0103 se \u00een\u021beleag\u0103 traducerea. Se sprijin\u0103 pe trei piloni: un pe\u0219te local uscat sau fript, de la stavrid (aji) p\u00e2n\u0103 la niboshi; un miso de orz din Kyushu, mai bl\u00e2nd dec\u00e2t miso-ul de orez, m\u0103cinat cu susan alb pr\u0103jit; \u0219i orez cu orz fierbinte, mugi-meshi, folosit ca baz\u0103. \n\n\n\nFarmecul st\u0103 \u00een contrast: bulionul rece ca ghea\u021ba p\u0103trunde \u00een boabele \u00eenc\u0103 fierbin\u021bi, feliile de castravete s\u0103rate u\u0219or \u00ee\u0219i p\u0103streaz\u0103 textura crocant\u0103, iar tofu-ul ferm rupt cu m\u00e2na se \u00eembib\u0103 cu bulion prin marginile sale neregulate. Myoga \u0219i shiso \u00eencheie totul cu aroma lor proasp\u0103t\u0103.\n\n\n\nMetoda conteaz\u0103 la fel de mult ca ingredientele. Susanul se macin\u0103 \u00eentr-un suribachi striat, peste el se adaug\u0103 pe\u0219tele f\u0103r\u00e2mi\u021bat, apoi mugi-miso. Pasta se \u00eentinde pe pere\u021bii mojarului \u0219i se rumene\u0219te la flac\u0103r\u0103 p\u00e2n\u0103 se \u00eennegre\u0219te foarte u\u0219or, ceea ce ad\u00e2nce\u0219te gustul miso-ului \u0219i domole\u0219te notele prea intense de pe\u0219te. \n\n\n\n\u00cen mod tradi\u021bional, se sub\u021biaz\u0103 cu ap\u0103 foarte rece, chiar dac\u0103 unii buc\u0103tari de azi prefer\u0103 un dashi u\u0219or.\n\n\n\n\u00cen acela\u0219i spirit r\u0103coritor, oroshi soba se savureaz\u0103 reci p\u00e2n\u0103 \u00een septembrie\n\n\n\nN\u0103scut din taxele pe orez \u0219i verile ap\u0103s\u0103toare\n\n\n\nMiyazaki este leag\u0103nul recunoscut al hiyajiru, iar grupuri care p\u0103streaz\u0103 tradi\u021bia, precum cel din ora\u0219ul Saito, continu\u0103 s\u0103 apere metoda la mojar. \n\n\n\nSe spune adesea c\u0103 preparatul dateaz\u0103 din epoca Kamakura, pe baza unui document care ar pune fa\u021b\u0103 \u00een fa\u021b\u0103 samurai ce \u00ee\u0219i m\u00e2ncau supa fierbinte \u0219i c\u0103lug\u0103ri care o m\u00e2ncau rece peste orez. Aceast\u0103 poveste ocup\u0103 un loc important \u00een memoria local\u0103, dar textul invocat nu apare \u00een catalogul general al c\u0103r\u021bilor na\u021bionale ale Japoniei.\n\n\n\nNumele, \u00een schimb, este mai bine atestat. Tratatul culinar Ryori Monogatari, publicat \u00een 1643, men\u021bioneaz\u0103 deja un hiyajiru. Preparatul descris sem\u0103na mai degrab\u0103 cu un aemono, un fel asezonat care combina mozuku, nori, castane, ghimbir, myoga \u0219i past\u0103 de pe\u0219te. Numele a circulat, a\u0219adar, cu mult \u00eenainte ca metoda s\u0103 se fixeze.\n\n\n\nSusanul m\u0103cinat la mojar d\u0103 tot farmecul \u0219i preparatului h\u014drens\u014d gomaae\n\n\n\nForma modern\u0103, \u00een schimb, s-a n\u0103scut pe c\u00e2mp. Nengu \u00eensemna 40-60 % din recolta de orez, uneori chiar mai mult, astfel \u00eenc\u00e2t \u021b\u0103ranii m\u00e2ncau orez cu orz \u00een loc de orez alb rafinat. \n\n\n\n\u00cen verile umede din Miyazaki, puneau miso crud peste un rest de mugi-meshi de diminea\u021b\u0103 \u0219i turnau ap\u0103 rece deasupra: sare, ap\u0103 \u0219i o mas\u0103 m\u00e2ncat\u0103 \u00een grab\u0103, \u00een timpul pauzei. Genera\u021biile urm\u0103toare au fript pe\u0219tele, au ad\u0103ugat susanul, au trecut pasta prin flac\u0103r\u0103 \u0219i au f\u0103cut din tofu-ul ferm semn\u0103tura local\u0103.\n\n\n\nIngredientele principale ale hiyajiru\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPe\u0219tele d\u0103 baza savuroas\u0103: aji, kamasu sau tai, frip\u021bi \u0219i apoi f\u0103r\u00e2mi\u021ba\u021bi, ori niboshi \u0219i ago, uscate \u0219i apoi pr\u0103jite. Micilor sardine uscate li se scot capetele \u0219i m\u0103runtaiele pentru a evita am\u0103reala, iar trecerea prin foc atenueaz\u0103 mirosul prea puternic de mare. Sub bulion, orezul cu orz aduce consisten\u021b\u0103 \u0219i contrastul cald care define\u0219te preparatul.\n\n\n\nMiso-ul de orz din Kyushu aduce sarea, corpul \u0219i o dulcea\u021b\u0103 venit\u0103 de la koji-ul de orz; rumenit, cap\u0103t\u0103 acel gust profund, u\u0219or brunat, care deosebe\u0219te hiyajiru de o simpl\u0103 sup\u0103 rece. \n\n\n\nSemin\u021bele de susan alb, m\u0103cinate p\u00e2n\u0103 \u00ee\u0219i elibereaz\u0103 parfumul, aduc onctuozitate \u0219i acea textur\u0103 cremoas\u0103 care ajut\u0103 pasta s\u0103 se emulsioneze. Mul\u021bi folosesc doar ap\u0103 foarte rece pentru a p\u0103stra gustul curat, al\u021bii adaug\u0103 un dashi u\u0219or pentru un plus de umami.\n\n\n\nC\u00e2nd c\u0103ldura se instaleaz\u0103 de-a binelea, hiyashi chuka preia \u0219tafeta la capitolul t\u0103i\u021bei\n\n\n\nRestul \u021bine de prospe\u021bime. tofu-ul ferm (momen) se las\u0103 la scurs, apoi se rupe cu m\u00e2na, astfel \u00eenc\u00e2t absoarbe bulionul mai bine dec\u00e2t dac\u0103 ar fi t\u0103iat cu cu\u021bitul. Castravetele se feliaz\u0103 sub\u021bire, se s\u0103reaz\u0103 \u0219i se preseaz\u0103 ca s\u0103 r\u0103m\u00e2n\u0103 crocant, f\u0103r\u0103 s\u0103 dilueze bulionul. Myoga \u0219i shiso, la r\u00e2ndul lor, echilibreaz\u0103 bog\u0103\u021bia susanului \u0219i dau bolului aroma sa de var\u0103.\n\n\n\n\n\n\tHiyajiru autentic \u2013 sup\u0103 rece din Miyazaki\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t30 g de niboshi (sardine mici uscate) (greutate net\u0103)300 ml de ap\u010325 g de semin\u021be de susan (pr\u0103jite)50 g de miso de orz (mugi miso) (poate fi \u00eenlocuit cu 1,5\u00d7 cantitatea de miso alb)0.5 bloc de tofu ferm (momen)0.5 castravete2 myoga (muguri de ghimbir japonez) (op\u021bional)5 frunze de shiso (\u014dba)2 boluri de orez (\u00een mod tradi\u021bional, cu orz (op\u021bional))\t\n\t\n\t\tDashi din niboshi\u00cendep\u0103rta\u021bi capetele \u0219i m\u0103runtaiele niboshi.Pune\u021bi 10 g de niboshi \u00eentr-o crati\u021b\u0103 cu ap\u0103, apoi l\u0103sa\u021bi-i la \u00eenmuiat 30 de minute.Aduce\u021bi la fierbere, apoi l\u0103sa\u021bi s\u0103 fiarb\u0103 la foc mic 6-7 minute, \u00eendep\u0103rt\u00e2nd spuma.Strecura\u021bi lichidul pentru a ob\u021bine dashi-ul.Baz\u0103 de miso \u0219i susanPune\u021bi restul de niboshi \u00eentr-o tigaie, la foc mic; c\u00e2nd devin crocante, ad\u0103uga\u021bi susanul \u0219i pr\u0103ji\u021bi-le uscat p\u00e2n\u0103 se elibereaz\u0103 aroma.Pisa\u021bi amestecul de susan \u0219i niboshi \u00eentr-un suribachi (mojar japonez) sau m\u0103run\u021bi\u021bi-l la robot.\u00centinde\u021bi miso pe interiorul crati\u021bei, \u00eentoarce\u021bi-o \u0219i rumeni\u021bi miso-ul direct la flac\u0103r\u0103 p\u00e2n\u0103 devine intens parfumat.Ad\u0103uga\u021bi amestecul de susan \u0219i niboshi peste miso, apoi \u00eencorpora\u021bi treptat dashi-ul. L\u0103sa\u021bi s\u0103 se r\u0103ceasc\u0103, apoi da\u021bi la frigider.Garnituri \u0219i servireT\u0103ia\u021bi castravetele \u0219i myoga \u00een rondele sub\u021biri, apoi toca\u021bi shiso \u00een f\u00e2\u0219ii fine.Ad\u0103uga\u021bi \u00een bulionul rece castravetele, myoga \u0219i tofu sf\u0103r\u00e2mat cu m\u00e2na.A\u0219eza\u021bi orezul cu orz \u00eentr-un bol, apoi turna\u021bi deasupra bulionul rece.\t\n\t\n\t\t\nPentru o variant\u0103 mai delicat\u0103, \u00eenlocui\u021bi miso-ul de orz cu miso alb (aproximativ 1,5\u00d7 cantitatea).\nServi\u021bi supa bine rece: un timp petrecut la frigider \u00eei \u00eembun\u0103t\u0103\u021be\u0219te vizibil gustul.\nMyoga este op\u021bional, dar aduce o not\u0103 proasp\u0103t\u0103 \u0219i foarte aromat\u0103.\n\n\t\n\t\n\t\tPlat principalJaponaise","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/163572","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=163572"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/163572\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/162854"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=163572"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=163572"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=163572"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}