{"id":163259,"title":"Re\u021bet\u0103 autentic\u0103 de nikujaga","modified":"2026-08-17T19:37:25+02:00","plain":"O toc\u0103ni\u021b\u0103 japonez\u0103 cu felii sub\u021biri de vit\u0103 sau porc, cartofi fragezi \u0219i ceap\u0103, totul \u00eentr-un delicios bulion dulce-s\u0103rat \n\n\n\n\u00cen oal\u0103, sosul de soia coloreaz\u0103 bulionul, iar mirinul \u00eei rotunje\u0219te gustul. Cartofii se p\u0103trund \u00eencet de acest bulion dulce-s\u0103rat, al\u0103turi de felii sub\u021biri de carne, ceap\u0103 fraged\u0103 \u0219i filamente translucide de konjac. \n\n\n\nEi devin hokuhoku, sf\u0103r\u00e2micio\u0219i \u0219i fragezi \u00een acela\u0219i timp, \u00een timp ce shirataki r\u0103m\u00e2n m\u0103t\u0103so\u0219i la mestecat. Este un fel de m\u00e2ncare de zi cu zi, dintre acelea care par \u0219i mai bune a doua zi, re\u00eenc\u0103lzite.\n\n\n\nAceea\u0219i logic\u0103 a feliilor sub\u021biri de vit\u0103 \u0219i a bulionului dulce-s\u0103rat : sukiyaki.\n\n\n\nCarne, cartofi \u0219i spiritul nimono\n\n\n\nNumele este c\u00e2t se poate de direct: niku, \u201ecarne\u201d, \u0219i jaga, de la jagaimo, cartof. Denumirea se impune abia \u00een anii 1970; \u00eenainte, preparatul circula sub nume precum amani sau umani, adic\u0103 \u201em\u00e2ncare dulce g\u0103tit\u0103 lent\u201d. \n\n\n\n\u00cen buc\u0103t\u0103ria japonez\u0103, el apar\u021bine familiei nimono, preparate g\u0103tite lent \u00eentr-un lichid limpede, ne\u00eengro\u0219at. Nu are nimic de-a face cu o tocan\u0103 occidental\u0103 \u00eengro\u0219at\u0103 cu f\u0103in\u0103: aici sosul se reduce ca s\u0103 concentreze aromele \u0219i s\u0103 \u00eembrace ingredientele, nu ca s\u0103 \u00eengreuneze preparatul.\n\n\n\nBaza aromatic\u0103 se construie\u0219te pe zah\u0103r, sos de soia, mirin \u0219i sake, adesea completate de un dashi limpede. Ordinea conteaz\u0103 la fel de mult ca ingredientele: regula Sa-shi-su-se-so spune c\u0103 zah\u0103rul se adaug\u0103 \u00eenaintea sosului de soia, pentru a p\u0103trunde \u00een legume \u00eenainte ca sarea s\u0103 le str\u00e2ng\u0103 fibrele. \n\n\n\nCarnea este t\u0103iat\u0103 foarte fin, fie vit\u0103, fie porc; iar konjacul din versiunea veche face ast\u0103zi adesea loc t\u0103ie\u021beilor shirataki sau ito konnyaku.\n\n\n\nUn alt clasic cu vit\u0103 feliat\u0103 sub\u021bire \u0219i ceap\u0103 fraged\u0103 : gyudon, a\u0219ezat peste orez \u00eentr-un bol.\n\n\n\nOrigini, de la Royal Navy la buc\u0103t\u0103riile erei Meiji\n\n\n\nNikujaga are aerul unui fel de m\u00e2ncare de cas\u0103, dar s-a n\u0103scut \u00een marina imperial\u0103 a erei Meiji. Orezul alb polisat domina alimenta\u021bia marinarilor \u0219i favoriza apari\u021bia beriberiului, un deficit de vitamina B1; ad\u0103ugarea c\u0103rnii \u0219i a legumelor devenea astfel o chestiune de s\u0103n\u0103tate, dar \u0219i de putere militar\u0103. \n\n\n\nPotrivit legendei, amiralul T\u014dg\u014d Heihachir\u014d, format \u00een Regatul Unit \u00eentre 1871 \u0219i 1878, ar fi prins acolo gustul pentru tocana britanic\u0103 de vit\u0103. \u00cen lipsa vinului ro\u0219u \u0219i a untului, buc\u0103tarii marinei ar fi recreat-o cu ceea ce aveau la \u00eendem\u00e2n\u0103: sos de soia, zah\u0103r, ulei de susan sau gr\u0103sime de vit\u0103.\n\n\n\nArhivele navale sus\u021bin aceast\u0103 poveste. Un manual din 1938 despre organizarea buc\u0103t\u0103riilor marinei consemneaz\u0103 un amani cu vit\u0103, konjac, cartofi, ceap\u0103, ulei de susan, zah\u0103r \u0219i sos de soia, f\u0103r\u0103 ap\u0103 sau dashi : preparatul se g\u0103te\u0219te \u00een sucurile l\u0103sate de carne \u0219i legume. \u0218i aici, zah\u0103rul se adaug\u0103 \u00eenaintea sosului de soia, iar ceapa intr\u0103 abia la final, ca s\u0103-\u0219i p\u0103streze crocantul.\n\n\n\nAcela\u0219i trio de cartof, morcov \u0219i ceap\u0103, g\u0103tite lent, se reg\u0103se\u0219te \u00een curryul japonez.\n\n\n\nDou\u0103 foste ora\u0219e de garnizoan\u0103 \u00ee\u0219i disput\u0103 paternitatea. Kure, \u00een Hiroshima, sus\u021bine o versiune strict\u0103: cartofi May Queen, f\u0103r\u0103 morcov, f\u0103r\u0103 ap\u0103 ad\u0103ugat\u0103, pentru un rezultat \u00eenchis la culoare \u0219i concentrat. Maizuru, la Kyoto, propune o interpretare mai de cas\u0103: cartofi Danshaku hokuhoku, morcov, maz\u0103re \u0219i ap\u0103 pentru o g\u0103tire mai bl\u00e2nd\u0103. \n\n\n\n\u00centr-un cu totul alt registru, buc\u0103t\u0103ria japonez\u0103 acord\u0103 aceea\u0219i grij\u0103 \u0219i bulioanelor limpezi, precum matsutake suimono.\n\n\n\n\u00cencep\u00e2nd cu anii 1970, c\u00e2nd carnea de vit\u0103 devine mai accesibil\u0103, preparatul p\u0103r\u0103se\u0219te buc\u0103t\u0103riile militare \u0219i intr\u0103 \u00een ofukuro no aji, \u201egustul de acas\u0103\u201d.\n\n\n\nIngredientele principale ale nikujaga\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCarnea este t\u0103iat\u0103 \u00een felii foarte sub\u021biri, ca pentru sukiyaki. \u00cen Kansai domin\u0103 vita, bine marmorat\u0103, a c\u0103rei gr\u0103sime se tope\u0219te \u00een bulion ; \u00een Kant\u014d, mai degrab\u0103 porcul, pentru o variant\u0103 mai de zi cu zi, \u00een care sosul de soia se simte mai clar. \u00cen ambele cazuri, o rumenire rapid\u0103 la \u00eenceput aduce umami \u0219i profunzime caramelizat\u0103.\n\n\n\nCartofii sunt \u00een centrul preparatului. T\u0103ia\u021bi rangiri, \u00een buc\u0103\u021bi neregulate, expun mai mult\u0103 suprafa\u021b\u0103 bulionului \u0219i \u00eel absorb mai bine: cartofii May Queen, fermi, rezist\u0103 la g\u0103tirea f\u0103r\u0103 ap\u0103, iar cei Danshaku, mai f\u0103ino\u0219i, se sf\u0103r\u00e2m\u0103 u\u0219or \u0219i absorb din plin aromele. \n\n\n\nCeapa \u00ee\u0219i las\u0103 sucul \u0219i dulcea\u021ba; konjacul \u0219i shirataki, op\u0103ri\u021bi mai \u00eent\u00e2i pentru a le \u00eendep\u0103rta mirosul alcalin, preiau gustul bulionului, p\u0103str\u00e2nd o textur\u0103 u\u0219or elastic\u0103.\n\n\n\nDin resturile de nikujaga se fac adesea korokke, crochete pane din cartofi.\n\n\n\nSosul de soia aduce sare, culoare \u0219i profunzime ; zah\u0103rul, rotunjime \u0219i luciu. Mirinul \u0219i sake adaug\u0103 str\u0103lucire \u0219i parfum, iar dashi un prim strat de umami. Uleiul de susan aduce o not\u0103 u\u0219or pr\u0103jit\u0103 \u00eenc\u0103 din primele minute. Morcovul, \u00een schimb, r\u0103m\u00e2ne op\u021bional : prezent la Maizuru, absent la Kure.\n\n\n\n\n\n\tNikujaga autentic\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\tCarne \u0219i legume200 g de vit\u0103 sau de porc (feliat\u0103 sub\u021bire, apoi t\u0103iat\u0103 \u00een buc\u0103\u021bi potrivite pentru o \u00eenghi\u021bitur\u0103)450 g de cartofi (\u00een buc\u0103\u021bi de 4\u20135 cm (aproximativ 3 buc\u0103\u021bi), cur\u0103\u021ba\u021bi de coaj\u0103)200 g de ceap\u0103 (\u00een sferturi de aproximativ 2 cm (aproximativ 1 bucat\u0103), cur\u0103\u021bat\u0103 \u0219i cu cotorul \u00eendep\u0103rtat)100 g de morcov (\u00een buc\u0103\u021bi neregulate, pu\u021bin mai mici dec\u00e2t cartofii (aproximativ 1 morcov mic), cur\u0103\u021bat de coaj\u0103)8 p\u0103st\u0103i de maz\u0103re (cu capetele \u0219i a\u021bele \u00eendep\u0103rtate)Shirataki100 g de shirataki (sau konjac sub form\u0103 de t\u0103i\u021bei; cl\u0103ti\u021bi, t\u0103ia\u021bi, apoi op\u0103ri\u021bi timp de 1 minut)Pentru g\u0103tire1 lingur\u0103 de ulei vegetal400 ml de sup\u0103 dashi (sau 400 ml de ap\u0103 + pu\u021bin sub 1 linguri\u021b\u0103 de dashi instant granulat)Pentru asezonare2 linguri de zah\u0103r2 linguri de mirin2 linguri de sake4 linguri de sos de soia (japonez (de exemplu Kikkoman) sau sos de soia light)\t\n\t\n\t\tPreg\u0103tirea shiratakiCl\u0103ti\u021bi u\u0219or shirataki \u00eentr-o strecur\u0103toare, apoi t\u0103ia\u021bi-i cu foarfeca de buc\u0103t\u0103rie \u00een buc\u0103\u021bi potrivite pentru o \u00eenghi\u021bitur\u0103.Aduce\u021bi la fierbere o cr\u0103ticioar\u0103 cu ap\u0103, fierbe\u021bi shirataki timp de 1 minut, apoi scurge\u021bi-i. Acest pas le atenueaz\u0103 mirosul \u0219i \u00eei ajut\u0103 s\u0103 absoarb\u0103 mai bine sosul.Preg\u0103tirea legumelor \u0219i a c\u0103rniiCur\u0103\u021ba\u021bi cartofii \u0219i t\u0103ia\u021bi-i \u00een buc\u0103\u021bi destul de mari (4\u20135 cm).Cur\u0103\u021ba\u021bi ceapa, \u00eendep\u0103rta\u021bi cotorul, apoi t\u0103ia\u021bi-o \u00een sferturi late de aproximativ 2 cm.Cur\u0103\u021ba\u021bi morcovul, apoi t\u0103ia\u021bi-l \u00een buc\u0103\u021bi neregulate, pu\u021bin mai mici dec\u00e2t cartofii.T\u0103ia\u021bi carnea \u00een buc\u0103\u021bi potrivite pentru o \u00eenghi\u021bitur\u0103, apoi cur\u0103\u021ba\u021bi p\u0103st\u0103ile de maz\u0103re, \u00eendep\u0103rt\u00e2nd capetele \u0219i a\u021bele.G\u0103tirePune\u021bi uleiul vegetal \u0219i carnea \u00eentr-o tigaie rece, apoi \u00eenc\u0103lzi\u021bi la foc mediu, desf\u0103c\u00e2nd buc\u0103\u021bile. C\u0103li\u021bi p\u00e2n\u0103 c\u00e2nd aproximativ 70% din suprafa\u021ba c\u0103rnii \u00ee\u0219i schimb\u0103 culoarea, f\u0103r\u0103 s\u0103 o g\u0103ti\u021bi complet.Ad\u0103uga\u021bi cartofii, morcovul \u0219i ceapa, apoi amesteca\u021bi bine, astfel \u00eenc\u00e2t legumele s\u0103 se acopere uniform cu ulei.Turna\u021bi supa dashi, aduce\u021bi la fierbere, apoi \u00eendep\u0103rta\u021bi u\u0219or spuma de la suprafa\u021b\u0103.Ad\u0103uga\u021bi shirataki, apoi zah\u0103rul, mirinul, sake-ul \u0219i sosul de soia. Acoperi\u021bi cu o foaie de aluminiu a\u0219ezat\u0103 direct peste ingrediente, cu o mic\u0103 gaur\u0103 de aerisire \u00een centru.L\u0103sa\u021bi s\u0103 fiarb\u0103 la foc mediu-mic timp de 13 minute, apoi scufunda\u021bi p\u0103st\u0103ile de maz\u0103re \u00een lichid, pune\u021bi la loc capacul improvizat \u0219i mai fierbe\u021bi 2 minute (aproximativ 15 minute \u00een total).ServireServi\u021bi imediat sau l\u0103sa\u021bi preparatul s\u0103 se r\u0103ceasc\u0103 \u00een tigaie, ca aromele s\u0103 p\u0103trund\u0103 \u0219i mai bine. Dac\u0103 \u00eel l\u0103sa\u021bi la r\u0103cit, scoate\u021bi p\u0103st\u0103ile de maz\u0103re ca s\u0103-\u0219i p\u0103streze culoarea, apoi ad\u0103uga\u021bi-le din nou la servire.\t\n\t\n\t\tP\u0103strare: se p\u0103streaz\u0103 p\u00e2n\u0103 la 6 zile la frigider.\nAlege\u021bi carne feliat\u0103 sub\u021bire (piept, mu\u0219chi, carne t\u0103iat\u0103 foarte fin sau buc\u0103\u021bi r\u0103mase de la fasonare).\n\u00cenlocuitor: supa dashi poate fi \u00eenlocuit\u0103 cu 400 ml de ap\u0103 + pu\u021bin sub 1 linguri\u021b\u0103 de dashi instant granulat.\n\t\n\t\n\t\tPlat principalJaponaise","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/163259","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=163259"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/163259\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/159370"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=163259"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=163259"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=163259"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}