{"id":148118,"title":"Ch\u1ea3 L\u1ee5i autentic – rulouri vietnameze la gr\u0103tar","modified":"2026-07-14T15:47:58+02:00","plain":"Un rulou din foaie de orez, umplut cu creve\u021bi \u0219i porc, fript pe jar \u0219i servit cu un sos dens de arahide \u0219i tamarin.\n\n\n\nFumul gr\u0103tarului cu jar se ridic\u0103 la col\u021b de strad\u0103, iar mirosul de foaie de orez rumenit\u0103 v\u0103 opre\u0219te pe loc. De pe frig\u0103ruie se ia un rulou fierbinte, se \u00eenf\u0103\u0219oar\u0103 \u00eentr-o frunz\u0103 de salat\u0103, cu busuioc thailandez \u0219i castravete, apoi se \u00eenmoaie \u00eentr-un sos gros de arahide \u0219i tamarin. \u00cenveli\u0219ul trosne\u0219te sub din\u021bi, iar umplutura de creve\u021bi \u0219i porc r\u0103m\u00e2ne fraged\u0103 \u00een\u0103untru.\n\n\n\nAcesta este ch\u1ea3 l\u1ee5i din Lagi, gustarea care se m\u0103n\u00e2nc\u0103 \u00een picioare, cu degetele, \u0219i pe care o recomanzi dup\u0103 prima \u00eembuc\u0103tur\u0103.\n\n\n\nUn alt clasic crocant de \u00eenmuiat \u00een sos: cl\u0103tita b\u00e1nh x\u00e8o\n\n\n\nCe este ch\u1ea3 l\u1ee5i?\n\n\n\nCh\u1ea3 l\u1ee5i este un rulou din foaie de orez, umplut cu creve\u021bi mici de ap\u0103 dulce pisa\u021bi \u0219i cu porc bine marmorat, colorat cu ulei de annatto, apoi fript pe jar p\u00e2n\u0103 c\u00e2nd \u00eenveli\u0219ul se umfl\u0103 \u0219i devine crocant \u0219i casant.\n\n\n\nNu este nici nem pr\u0103jit, nici c\u00e2rnat. Este adesea confundat cu ch\u1ea3 l\u1ee5a, c\u00e2rnatul de porc g\u0103tit la abur, sau cu nem l\u1ee5i din Hu\u1ebf, modelat pe tulpini de citronel\u0103, dar ch\u1ea3 l\u1ee5i din Lagi r\u0103m\u00e2ne un preparat aparte, f\u0103cut pe c\u0103rbuni \u0219i inseparabil de platoul s\u0103u de ierburi aromatice \u0219i de sosul s\u0103u gros, lipicios.\n\n\n\n\u00cen graiul de coast\u0103 din centru-sud, cuv\u00e2ntul l\u1ee5i \u00eenseamn\u0103 \u201ea pune pe \u021bepu\u0219\u0103\u201d sau \u201ea str\u0103punge\u201d, iar numele descrie chiar gestul.\n\n\n\nV\u00e2nz\u0103torii \u00een\u0219ir\u0103 pe o frig\u0103ruie de bambus sau de fier mai multe pache\u021bele str\u00e2nse, \u00eenvelite \u00een foaie de orez, apoi le rotesc \u00eempreun\u0103 deasupra jarului. Aceast\u0103 tij\u0103 comun\u0103 p\u0103streaz\u0103 rulourile aliniate, men\u021bine \u00eembin\u0103rile \u00eenchise \u0219i permite \u00eentoarcerea unui \u00eentreg \u0219ir dintr-o singur\u0103 mi\u0219care.\n\n\n\nPoft\u0103 de porc la gr\u0103tar \u0219i ierburi proaspete? Descoperi\u021bi b\u00fan ch\u1ea3 din Hanoi\n\n\n\nN\u0103scut la Lagi, pe coasta B\u00ecnh Thu\u1eadn\n\n\n\nCh\u1ea3 l\u1ee5i este o apari\u021bie relativ recent\u0103 \u00een buc\u0103t\u0103ria vietnamez\u0103. Potrivit relat\u0103rilor locale, ar fi ap\u0103rut la Lagi, ora\u0219 de coast\u0103 din provincia B\u00ecnh Thu\u1eadn, la sf\u00e2r\u0219itul anilor 1990 sau la \u00eenceputul anilor 2000. Este atribuit unei v\u00e2nz\u0103toare ambulante pe nume doamna C\u0103n, cunoscut\u0103 adesea drept B\u00e0 Canh, din cartierul Ph\u01b0\u1edbc L\u1ed9c.\n\n\n\nIdeea r\u0103spundea perfect constr\u00e2ngerilor buc\u0103t\u0103riei stradale: ceva accesibil, u\u0219or de luat la pachet, s\u0103\u021bios \u0219i suficient de parfumat c\u00e2t s\u0103 opreasc\u0103 trec\u0103torii \u00een fa\u021ba unui gr\u0103tar cu c\u0103rbuni.\n\n\n\nB\u00ecnh Thu\u1eadn este o regiune a pe\u0219telui uscat \u0219i a sosului de pe\u0219te, iar acest specific local marcheaz\u0103 tot asezonajul preparatului. Umplutura se sprijin\u0103 pe umami-ul de n\u01b0\u1edbc m\u1eafm local, mai degrab\u0103 dec\u00e2t pe sare, \u00een timp ce uleiul de annatto d\u0103 rulourilor str\u0103lucirea lor ro\u0219u-aurie.\n\n\n\n\u00cen aceea\u0219i familie a rulourilor de strad\u0103, exist\u0103 \u0219i b\u00f2 b\u00eda\n\n\n\nDin Lagi, gustarea s-a r\u0103sp\u00e2ndit p\u00e2n\u0103 la Bi\u00ean H\u00f2a, V\u0169ng T\u00e0u, Hu\u1ebf \u0219i \u00een ora\u0219ul Ho Chi Minh. \u00cen ora\u0219e, rulourile devin adesea mai mari sau apar al\u0103turi de alte preparate la gr\u0103tar, dar localul Qu\u00e1n B\u00e0 Canh r\u0103m\u00e2ne reperul stilului vechi: rulouri mici \u0219i str\u00e2nse, cu crust\u0103 sub\u021bire, parfumate de jar.\n\n\n\nIngredientele principale ale ch\u1ea3 l\u1ee5i\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nUmplutura se bazeaz\u0103 pe dou\u0103 proteine \u0219i un \u00eenveli\u0219. Creve\u021bii mici de ap\u0103 dulce, t\u00f4m \u0111\u1ea5t sau t\u00f4m ch\u1ec9, elibereaz\u0103, odat\u0103 pisa\u021bi, proteine lipicioase care leag\u0103 umplutura \u0219i \u00eei dau elasticitate, cu o arom\u0103 bl\u00e2nd\u0103, f\u0103r\u0103 nota iodat\u0103 intens\u0103 a creve\u021bilor de mare.\n\n\n\nPorcul bine marmorat, din piept sau spat\u0103, aduce gr\u0103simea care se tope\u0219te la g\u0103tire, p\u0103streaz\u0103 miezul suculent \u0219i ajut\u0103 foaia de orez s\u0103 devin\u0103 crocant\u0103. \u00cenveli\u0219ul trebuie s\u0103 reziste unei u\u0219oare hidrat\u0103ri, unei plieri str\u00e2nse \u0219i unei c\u0103lduri puternice; bine lucrat, se umfl\u0103 \u0219i devine aproape translucid.\n\n\n\nAsezonarea vine \u00een primul r\u00e2nd de la n\u01b0\u1edbc m\u1eafm, care aduce salinitatea \u0219i umami-ul \u00een locul s\u0103rii. Uleiul de annatto, d\u1ea7u \u0111i\u1ec1u, coloreaz\u0103 umplutura \u0219i \u00eenveli\u0219ul \u00een ro\u0219u-auriu \u0219i ajut\u0103 foaia s\u0103 reziste pe jar. E\u0219alota \u0219i usturoiul tocate pun baza aromatic\u0103, ardeiul iute proasp\u0103t \u0219i piperul sunt folosite cu m\u0103sur\u0103, iar pu\u021bin zah\u0103r echilibreaz\u0103 n\u01b0\u1edbc m\u1eafm. Un praf de glutamat monosodic este op\u021bional.\n\n\n\nSosul face toat\u0103 diferen\u021ba fa\u021b\u0103 de celelalte rulouri vietnameze. Se g\u0103te\u0219te, nu se face la rece: n\u01b0\u1edbc m\u1eafm \u0219i zah\u0103rul se reduc p\u00e2n\u0103 cap\u0103t\u0103 consisten\u021ba unui sirop, ro\u0219ia decojit\u0103 \u00eei d\u0103 corp, tamarinul \u00eei aduce o aciditate rotund\u0103, iar e\u0219alota \u0219i usturoiul c\u0103lite \u00eei dau aroma.\n\n\n\nArahidele pr\u0103jite \u0219i zdrobite se adaug\u0103 la final, ca s\u0103-\u0219i p\u0103streze crocantul. La mas\u0103, salata devine \u00eenveli\u0219, ierburile aromatice aduc prospe\u021bime, iar mango-ul verde sau carambola taie bog\u0103\u021bia preparatului printr-o aciditate clar\u0103.\n\n\n\nRepere de autenticitate \u0219i capcane de evitat\n\n\n\nUn adev\u0103rat ch\u1ea3 l\u1ee5i \u00een stil Lagi se recunoa\u0219te dup\u0103 \u00eenveli\u0219ul din foaie de orez fript pe c\u0103rbuni, nu pr\u0103jit, \u0219i dup\u0103 sosul gros, g\u0103tit, cu ro\u0219ie, tamarin \u0219i arahide, nu dup\u0103 un bol de n\u01b0\u1edbc ch\u1ea5m crud \u0219i prea lichid.\n\n\n\nPentru o variant\u0103 proasp\u0103t\u0103, f\u0103r\u0103 gr\u0103tar, \u00eencerca\u021bi rulourile de prim\u0103var\u0103\n\n\n\nFeri\u021bi-v\u0103 de confuzii: o past\u0103 emulsificat\u0103 cu ap\u0103 cu ghea\u021b\u0103, apoi g\u0103tit\u0103 la abur \u00een frunze de bananier, este ch\u1ea3 l\u1ee5a; carne modelat\u0103 pe tulpini de citronel\u0103 este nem l\u1ee5i din Hu\u1ebf.\n\n\n\nFriteuza cu aer cald sau cuptorul sunt solu\u021bii de compromis, dar umfl\u0103 mai pu\u021bin foaia de orez \u0219i nu dau acelea\u0219i arome afumate ca atunci c\u00e2nd gr\u0103simea de porc atinge jarul. Referin\u021ba r\u0103m\u00e2ne Lagi, la adrese precum Qu\u00e1n B\u00e0 Canh, unde rulourile sunt \u00een continuare mici, str\u00e2nse \u0219i parfumate de jar.\n\n\n\n\n\n\tCh\u1ea3 L\u1ee5i autentic - rulouri vietnameze la gr\u0103tar\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\tPentru umplutur\u0103200 g creve\u021bi400 g carne de porc (tocat\u0103)100 g fasole mung (decorticat\u0103)1 \u0219alot\u0103 (tocat\u0103)1.5 c\u0103\u021bei usturoi (tocat)0.5 lingur\u0103 zah\u0103r0.5 linguri\u021b\u0103 piper (m\u0103cinat)0.5 linguri\u021b\u0103 glutamat monosodic1 lingur\u0103 ulei de annatto0.5 lingur\u0103 sos de pe\u0219tePentru sos30 g tamarin100 ml ap\u010320 ml ap\u0103 (dac\u0103 este nevoie)1 \u0219alot\u0103 (tocat\u0103)1.5 c\u0103\u021bei usturoi (tocat)2 ardei iu\u021bi (toca\u021bi)30 g arahide (pr\u0103jite)1.5 linguri ulei de annatto3 linguri zah\u0103r3 linguri sos de pe\u0219te3 linguri ketchup1 lingur\u0103 sos iutePentru rulare \u0219i servire200 g foi de orezsalat\u0103 verdecastravetebusuioc thailandezkinh gi\u1edbimango verde (u\u0219or acri\u0219or)ap\u0103 (pentru umezirea foilor de orez)0.33 linguri\u021b\u0103 sare (pentru fierberea fasolei mung)\t\n\t\n\t\tPreg\u0103tirea ingredientelor\u00cenmuia\u021bi fasolea mung peste noapte, apoi fierbe\u021bi-o cu sarea p\u00e2n\u0103 se evapor\u0103 apa; opri\u021bi focul imediat ce boabele sunt fierte.Cl\u0103ti\u021bi, decortica\u021bi \u0219i cur\u0103\u021ba\u021bi creve\u021bii (\u00eendep\u0103rta\u021bi capul \u0219i vena dorsal\u0103), apoi mixa\u021bi-i fin.Cur\u0103\u021ba\u021bi \u0219i toca\u021bi \u0219alotele \u0219i usturoiul, separ\u00e2nd cantit\u0103\u021bile pentru umplutur\u0103 \u0219i pentru sos.M\u0103run\u021bi\u021bi fin arahidele pr\u0103jite.Sp\u0103la\u021bi \u0219i scurge\u021bi ierburile aromatice \u0219i legumele pentru servire.Prepararea umpluturiiPune\u021bi \u00eentr-un bol mare creve\u021bii mixa\u021bi, carnea de porc, \u0219alota, usturoiul \u0219i toate condimentele pentru umplutur\u0103, apoi amesteca\u021bi bine.L\u0103sa\u021bi umplutura la marinat 30 de minute la frigider.Preg\u0103tirea sosului\u00cencinge\u021bi o tigaie, ad\u0103uga\u021bi uleiul de annatto, apoi c\u0103li\u021bi \u0219alota \u0219i usturoiul pentru sos p\u00e2n\u0103 \u00ee\u0219i elibereaz\u0103 aroma.Ad\u0103uga\u021bi apa \u0219i tamarinul, reduce\u021bi focul la mediu \u0219i g\u0103ti\u021bi p\u00e2n\u0103 se \u00eenmoaie tamarinul.Ad\u0103uga\u021bi zah\u0103rul, sosul de pe\u0219te, ketchupul \u0219i sosul iute; amesteca\u021bi, opri\u021bi focul \u0219i \u00eendep\u0103rta\u021bi s\u00e2mburii de tamarin.Pune\u021bi fasolea mung fiart\u0103 \u0219i sosul \u00eentr-un blender, mixa\u021bi fin, apoi ad\u0103uga\u021bi pu\u021bin\u0103 ap\u0103 dac\u0103 sosul este prea gros.Pune\u021bi din nou sosul pe foc, da\u021bi-l \u00een clocot, ad\u0103uga\u021bi arahidele m\u0103run\u021bite \u0219i amesteca\u021bi p\u00e2n\u0103 devine omogen.Rulare \u0219i coacereA\u0219eza\u021bi o foaie de orez, umezi\u021bi-o u\u0219or, pune\u021bi o por\u021bie de umplutur\u0103 \u00een centru, aduce\u021bi capetele spre interior, apoi rula\u021bi str\u00e2ns, form\u00e2nd un rulou u\u0219or turtit; repeta\u021bi p\u00e2n\u0103 termina\u021bi toat\u0103 compozi\u021bia.Pre\u00eenc\u0103lzi\u021bi cuptorul timp de 15 minute la 180 \u00b0C, a\u0219eza\u021bi rulourile pe o tav\u0103, coace\u021bi-le 7 minute, \u00eentoarce\u021bi-le \u0219i mai coace\u021bi-le 7 minute, p\u00e2n\u0103 devin aurii \u0219i crocante.ServireServi\u021bi ch\u1ea3 l\u1ee5i al\u0103turi de ierburile aromatice \u0219i de legume, apoi \u00eenmuia\u021bi-le \u00een sosul de tamarin.\t\n\t\n\t\t\nPentru a economisi timp, pune\u021bi fasolea mung la \u00eenmuiat cu o zi \u00eenainte \u0219i preg\u0103ti\u021bi sosul c\u00e2t timp se marineaz\u0103 umplutura.\nRegla\u021bi cantitatea de ap\u0103 (20 ml) pentru a ob\u021bine un sos care \u00eembrac\u0103 frumos; se va \u00eengro\u0219a pe m\u0103sur\u0103 ce se r\u0103ce\u0219te.\nTimpul de coacere poate varia \u00een func\u021bie de grosimea rulourilor: urm\u0103ri\u021bi rumenirea \u0219i prelungi\u021bi coacerea \u00een reprize de c\u00e2te 2 minute, dac\u0103 este nevoie.\n\n\t\n\t\n\t\tPlat principalVietnamienne","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/148118","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=148118"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/148118\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/147717"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=148118"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=148118"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=148118"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}