{"id":138979,"title":"Pares de vit\u0103 autentic","modified":"2026-06-15T09:41:51+02:00","plain":"Un mare clasic filipinez: vit\u0103 \u00een\u0103bu\u0219it\u0103 \u00een sos de soia \u0219i anason stelat, fraged\u0103 de se tope\u0219te \u00een gur\u0103, servit\u0103 cu orez cu usturoi\n\n\n\nLa Manila, paresul de vit\u0103 ajunge la mas\u0103 c\u00e2nd sosul se prinde u\u0219or de lingur\u0103, iar orezul \u00eenc\u0103 abure\u0219te. Carnea e fraged\u0103, anasonul stelat se simte de la prima \u00eembuc\u0103tur\u0103, iar bulionul echilibreaz\u0103 totul. Iar garnitura tradi\u021bional\u0103 de orez cu usturoi? E simpl\u0103, s\u0103\u021bioas\u0103 \u0219i irezistibil\u0103.\n\n\n\nPares de vit\u0103: ce este?\n\n\n\nPares \u00eenseamn\u0103 \u201epereche\u201d \u00een tagalog. Numele desemneaz\u0103 mai ales o formul\u0103 complet\u0103 din buc\u0103t\u0103ria filipinez\u0103: vit\u0103 \u00een\u0103bu\u0219it\u0103, orez cu usturoi \u0219i o sup\u0103 limpede de vit\u0103. Cele trei elemente sunt servite separat, ceea ce \u00ee\u021bi permite s\u0103 dozezi sosul, orezul \u0219i bulionul la fiecare \u00eembuc\u0103tur\u0103.\n\n\n\nUn alt trio filipinez s\u0103\u021bios: tapsilog\n\n\n\nAsado-ul mizeaz\u0103 pe sos de soia, zah\u0103r brun \u0219i anason stelat. Carnea care se tope\u0219te \u00een gur\u0103 aduce gr\u0103sime \u0219i colagen, sinangagul ofer\u0103 contrastul uscat \u0219i aromat, iar bulionul aduce c\u0103ldur\u0103. Preparatul \u00ee\u0219i pierde farmecul dac\u0103 le amesteci pe toate \u00eenainte de servire.\n\n\n\nDin La Loma la bolurile t\u00e2rzii de sear\u0103\n\n\n\nParesul de vit\u0103 are o origine destul de bine documentat\u0103. Jonas, o carinderia deschis\u0103 \u00een 1979 de Lolita \u201eLolly\u201d Tiu \u0219i Roger Tiu, \u00een La Loma, Quezon City, este locul care l-a f\u0103cut celebru. Familia Tiu a pornit de la un asado de cas\u0103, cu influen\u021be chineze\u0219ti, apropiat de char siu prin profilul s\u0103u dulce-s\u0103rat, apoi l-a transformat \u00eentr-o mas\u0103 complet\u0103, accesibil\u0103 \u0219i g\u00e2ndit\u0103 pentru muncitori.\n\n\n\n\u00cen La Loma, compara\u021bia cu Pares sa Retiro apare des. Jonas e asociat cu un sos mai fluid \u0219i mai s\u0103rat, \u00een timp ce Retiro evoc\u0103 un sos mai gros, mai dulce, foarte pronun\u021bat de anasonul stelat \u0219i bogat \u00een tendon. Pares kanto, versiunea de strad\u0103, \u00eempinge \u0219i mai departe nota gras\u0103, lipicioas\u0103 \u0219i intens marcat\u0103 de sosul de soia.\n\n\n\n\u021ai-e poft\u0103 de un adev\u0103rat bulion filipinez de vit\u0103? \u00cencearc\u0103 bulalo\n\n\n\nTotu\u0219i, preparatul p\u0103streaz\u0103 o logic\u0103 limpede: vit\u0103 \u00een\u0103bu\u0219it\u0103, orez cu usturoi \u0219i un bulion servit separat. Acest trio \u00eel deosebe\u0219te de o simpl\u0103 tocan\u0103 pus\u0103 peste orez, chiar dac\u0103 familia preparatelor filipineze include \u0219i clasice precum puiul adobo, sinigang sau sisig.\n\n\n\nIngredientele de baz\u0103 pentru pares de vit\u0103\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCarnea trebuie s\u0103 fie bogat\u0103 \u00een colagen: piept, fleic\u0103, rasol sau litid. Ca \u00een B\u00f2 kho, g\u0103tirea lent\u0103 transform\u0103 aceste buc\u0103\u021bi \u00een carne fraged\u0103 \u0219i d\u0103 sosului consisten\u021b\u0103. O carne prea slab\u0103 duce repede la un pares uscat \u0219i fad.\n\n\n\nSosul se face din sos de soia, zah\u0103r brun, ghimbir, usturoi, ceap\u0103 \u0219i anason stelat \u00eentreg. Anasonul stelat este nota dominant\u0103, nu doar un parfum de fundal. Sosul de stridii poate accentua latura savuroas\u0103, dar nu trebuie s\u0103 acopere gustul c\u0103rnii de vit\u0103.\n\n\n\n\u00cen aceea\u0219i not\u0103 reconfortant\u0103, goto e mereu o alegere bun\u0103\n\n\n\nBulionul trebuie s\u0103 r\u0103m\u00e2n\u0103 limpede, cu oase, piper, foi de dafin \u0219i alte aromate. Aminte\u0219te de spiritul unui bulion limpede: plin de gust, dar f\u0103r\u0103 s\u0103 fie greu. Iar orezul se preg\u0103te\u0219te din boabe r\u0103cite \u0219i usturoi pr\u0103jit, pentru a ob\u021bine un sinangag uscat, parfumat \u0219i numai bun s\u0103 absoarb\u0103 sosul.\n\n\n\nCum recuno\u0219ti un pares de vit\u0103 reu\u0219it\n\n\n\nUn pares bun vine \u00een trei p\u0103r\u021bi: o tocan\u0103 lucioas\u0103, un orez cu usturoi deloc unsuros \u0219i un bulion limpede. Tendonul trebuie s\u0103 fie translucid \u0219i fraged, f\u0103r\u0103 sos f\u0103inos \u0219i f\u0103r\u0103 textur\u0103 cleioas\u0103. \n\n\n\nCa s\u0103 completezi masa, un bun sisig filipinez e \u00eentotdeauna bine-venit\n\n\n\nAmestecul chinezesc de cinci condimente nu \u00eenlocuie\u0219te anasonul stelat dec\u00e2t la nevoie \u0219i \u00een cantitate foarte mic\u0103, pentru c\u0103 cui\u0219oarele preiau repede controlul. Aten\u021bie \u0219i la piperul Sichuan, la c\u0103rnurile doar fierte, la orezul lipicios \u0219i la versiunile deja iu\u021bi \u00eenainte s\u0103 ajung\u0103 pe mas\u0103.\n\n\n\n\n\n\tBeef Pares autentic\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\tPentru sup\u01031.9 L de ap\u0103900 g de piept de vit\u0103 (t\u0103iat \u00een cuburi de 4 cm)1.4 L de ap\u01031 ceap\u0103 (cur\u0103\u021bat\u0103, t\u0103iat\u0103 \u00een sferturi)4 c\u0103\u021bei de usturoi (cur\u0103\u021ba\u021bi \u0219i zdrobi\u021bi)1 linguri\u021b\u0103 de boabe de piper2 frunze de dafin1 lingur\u0103 de sare (sau mai mult, dup\u0103 gust)ceap\u0103 verde (tocat\u0103, pentru servire)piper (dup\u0103 gust)Pentru vit\u0103 asado1 lingur\u0103 de ulei de canola1 ceap\u0103 (cur\u0103\u021bat\u0103 \u0219i tocat\u0103)3 c\u0103\u021bei de usturoi (cur\u0103\u021ba\u021bi \u0219i toca\u021bi m\u0103runt)1 bucat\u0103 de ghimbir (de 2,5 cm, cur\u0103\u021bat\u0103 \u0219i t\u0103iat\u0103 julienne)240 ml de sup\u0103 (oprit\u0103 din zeama \u00een care a fiert carnea de vit\u0103)60 ml de sos de soia55 g de zah\u0103r brun2 stele de anason stelatsare (dup\u0103 gust)piper (dup\u0103 gust)Pentru orezul pr\u0103jit cu usturoi740 g de orez (g\u0103tit cu o zi \u00eenainte, apoi r\u0103cit)60 ml de ulei de canola5 c\u0103\u021bei de usturoi (cur\u0103\u021ba\u021bi \u0219i toca\u021bi m\u0103runt)sare (dup\u0103 gust)piper (dup\u0103 gust)\t\n\t\n\t\tPentru sup\u0103\u00centr-o oal\u0103, la foc mediu, aduce\u021bi la fierbere 1,9 L de ap\u0103, apoi ad\u0103uga\u021bi pieptul de vit\u0103.Fierbe\u021bi 8-10 minute, \u00eendep\u0103rt\u00e2nd spuma, apoi scoate\u021bi \u0219i scurge\u021bi carnea, arunca\u021bi lichidul \u0219i cl\u0103ti\u021bi bine at\u00e2t carnea, c\u00e2t \u0219i oala.Pune\u021bi din nou carnea \u00een oala curat\u0103, ad\u0103uga\u021bi 1,4 L de ap\u0103 rece, aduce\u021bi la fierbere \u0219i \u00eendep\u0103rta\u021bi spuma p\u00e2n\u0103 c\u00e2nd lichidul devine limpede.Ad\u0103uga\u021bi ceapa, usturoiul, boabele de piper, frunzele de dafin \u0219i 1 lingur\u0103 de sare.Reduce\u021bi focul, acoperi\u021bi \u0219i l\u0103sa\u021bi s\u0103 fiarb\u0103 la foc mic \u00eentre 2 ore \u0219i 2 ore \u0219i 30 de minute, p\u00e2n\u0103 c\u00e2nd carnea devine fraged\u0103. Scoate\u021bi carnea cu o spumier\u0103 \u0219i p\u0103stra\u021bi supa la foc mic (opri\u021bi 240 ml pentru asado).Pentru vit\u0103 asado\u00cencinge\u021bi uleiul \u00eentr-o tigaie, la foc mediu, apoi c\u0103li\u021bi ceapa, usturoiul \u0219i ghimbirul p\u00e2n\u0103 se \u00eenmoaie.Ad\u0103uga\u021bi carnea de vit\u0103 \u0219i g\u0103ti\u021bi-o 2-3 minute, p\u00e2n\u0103 se rumene\u0219te u\u0219or.Amesteca\u021bi supa p\u0103strat\u0103 cu sosul de soia \u0219i zah\u0103rul brun p\u00e2n\u0103 se dizolv\u0103, apoi turna\u021bi totul \u00een tigaie. Ad\u0103uga\u021bi anasonul stelat.Aduce\u021bi la un clocot u\u0219or, amestec\u00e2nd ca s\u0103 acoperi\u021bi bine carnea, apoi g\u0103ti\u021bi 8-10 minute, p\u00e2n\u0103 c\u00e2nd sosul scade. Potrivi\u021bi de sare \u0219i piper, dup\u0103 gust.Pentru orezul pr\u0103jit cu usturoi\u00centr-un bol, desface\u021bi orezul rece, astfel \u00eenc\u00e2t boabele s\u0103 se separe.\u00centr-o tigaie mare, la foc mic, \u00eenc\u0103lzi\u021bi uleiul, ad\u0103uga\u021bi usturoiul \u0219i g\u0103ti\u021bi-l, amestec\u00e2nd, p\u00e2n\u0103 devine auriu. Scoate\u021bi-l cu o spumier\u0103 \u0219i l\u0103sa\u021bi-l la scurs pe h\u00e2rtie absorbant\u0103.\u00cendep\u0103rta\u021bi excesul de ulei, l\u0103s\u00e2nd \u00een tigaie aproximativ 1-2 linguri, m\u0103ri\u021bi focul, ad\u0103uga\u021bi orezul \u0219i sota\u021bi-l \u00een reprize scurte (aproximativ 45 de secunde l\u0103sat nemi\u0219cat, apoi amestecat) p\u00e2n\u0103 este bine fierbinte. Potrivi\u021bi de sare \u0219i piper, dup\u0103 gust.Pentru servireTurna\u021bi supa \u00een boluri, pres\u0103ra\u021bi ceapa verde, apoi servi\u021bi al\u0103turi orezul pr\u0103jit cu usturoi \u0219i vita asado, c\u00e2t sunt \u00eenc\u0103 fierbin\u021bi.\t\n\t\n\t\t\nNu s\u0103ri\u021bi peste op\u0103rirea c\u0103rnii: acest pas garanteaz\u0103 o sup\u0103 limpede, f\u0103r\u0103 sedimente.\nG\u0103ti\u021bi la un clocot abia perceptibil: o fierbere prea puternic\u0103 emulsioneaz\u0103 gr\u0103simea \u0219i tulbur\u0103 supa.\n\n\t\n\t\n\t\tHauptgerichtAsiatische K\u00fcche","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/138979","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=138979"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/138979\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/128364"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=138979"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=138979"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=138979"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}