{"id":138915,"title":"Gogo\u0219i vietnameze cu banane \u2013 B\u00e1nh Chu\u1ed1i Chi\u00ean","modified":"2026-06-15T09:39:25+02:00","plain":"Aceste gogo\u0219i vietnameze cu banane, \u00een dublu strat de aluat \u0219i parfumate cu lapte de cocos, au un miez moale \u0219i o crust\u0103 extra-crocant\u0103.\n\n\n\nSf\u00e2r\u00e2itul uleiului \u00eencins acoper\u0103, pentru o clip\u0103, vacarmul traficului. O spumier\u0103 de s\u00e2rm\u0103 ridic\u0103 o gr\u0103mad\u0103 de gogo\u0219i aurii, crocante \u0219i caramelizate, cu margini neregulate. O singur\u0103 mu\u0219c\u0103tur\u0103 din aceast\u0103 crust\u0103 fragil\u0103 este de ajuns ca s\u0103 elibereze un miez de banan\u0103 catifelat \u0219i o arom\u0103 delicat\u0103 de cocos. \n\n\n\nNu vorbim despre un desert atent montat \u00een farfurie, ca la restaurant, ci despre o gustare de strad\u0103, precum b\u00e1nh cam, \u00een format de \u021binut \u00een m\u00e2n\u0103, pe care o m\u0103n\u00e2nci \u00een picioare, pe trotuar. \n\n\n\nTarab\u0103 cu gogo\u0219i, z\u0103rit\u0103 (\u0219i gustat\u0103, desigur) \u00een timpul c\u0103l\u0103toriei mele \u00een Vietnam\n\n\n\nB\u00e1nh chu\u1ed1i chi\u00ean: ce este, de fapt ?\n\n\n\n\u00cen esen\u021b\u0103, b\u00e1nh chu\u1ed1i chi\u00ean este pur \u0219i simplu un fel vietnamez de \u00ab gogoa\u0219\u0103 \u00bb cu banane pr\u0103jite. Banane mici, bine coapte, sunt despicate \u0219i apoi aplatizate \u00een forme ovale, lungi \u0219i sub\u021biri. Dup\u0103 aceea, sunt acoperite cu un aluat u\u0219or pe baz\u0103 de orez, \u00eenainte de a fi scufundate \u00een ulei, unde se umfl\u0103, devin foarte crocante \u0219i cap\u0103t\u0103 o culoare aurie superb\u0103. \n\n\n\nNumele este c\u00e2t se poate de literal : b\u00e1nh \u00eenseamn\u0103 pr\u0103jitur\u0103 sau patiserie, chu\u1ed1i banan\u0103, iar chi\u00ean pr\u0103jit. S\u0103 le spui \u00ab gogo\u0219i cu banane \u00bb scoate \u00een eviden\u021b\u0103 \u00eenrudirea lor cu marea familie francez\u0103 a gogo\u0219ilor, \u00eens\u0103 identitatea lor r\u0103m\u00e2ne profund vietnamez\u0103, de la crusta dominat\u0103 de f\u0103ina de orez p\u00e2n\u0103 la aluatul parfumat cu nuc\u0103 de cocos. \n\n\n\nSpre deosebire de pisang goreng din Indonezia, de kluai khaek din Thailanda sau de gogoa\u0219a mare cu banane \u00een stil occidental, aceste pr\u0103jituri sunt mai sub\u021biri, mai fine, aproape casante, iar banana r\u0103m\u00e2ne bine \u00een centrul fiec\u0103rei mu\u0219c\u0103turi.\n\n\n\nOriginile bananelor pr\u0103jite vietnameze\n\n\n\nB\u00e1nh chu\u1ed1i chi\u00ean s-a n\u0103scut \u00een sudul deltei Mekongului, pe acele p\u0103m\u00e2nturi fluviale luxuriante din mi\u1ec1n T\u00e2y, unde bananele \u0219i nucile de cocos cresc din bel\u0219ug. Buc\u0103t\u0103rese \u0219i buc\u0103tari chibzui\u021bi, acas\u0103 sau pe strad\u0103, au transformat bananele foarte coapte, prea moi pentru a fi v\u00e2ndute proaspete, \u00een gust\u0103ri s\u0103\u021bioase pentru \u0219colari \u0219i trec\u0103tori de toate v\u00e2rstele, trec\u00e2ndu-le prin aluat \u0219i l\u0103s\u00e2ndu-le apoi s\u0103 alunece \u00eentr-un wok cu ulei frem\u0103t\u0103tor. \n\n\n\nScena arhetipal\u0103 : un c\u0103rucior mic pe marginea drumului, un arz\u0103tor robust, un wok \u00eennegrit, t\u0103vi cu banane aplatizate \u0219i lucioase de aluat. Un v\u00e2nz\u0103tor \u00eentoarce ne\u00eencetat gogo\u0219ile, ca s\u0103 le rumeneasc\u0103 exact c\u00e2t trebuie.\n\n\n\nDescoperi\u021bi \u0219i B\u00e1nh b\u00f2 n\u01b0\u1edbng\n\n\n\nDin delt\u0103, aceast\u0103 delicates\u0103 a ajuns p\u00e2n\u0103 la Saigon, s-a integrat \u00een cultura extrem de bogat\u0103 a buc\u0103t\u0103riei stradale a ora\u0219ului, de la b\u00e1nh x\u00e8o fumeg\u00e2nde p\u00e2n\u0103 la gogo\u0219ile crocante cu banane, \u0219i a devenit o pl\u0103cere de ron\u021b\u0103it oriunde, la orice or\u0103, \u00een orice anotimp. \n\n\n\nMai la nord, unde clima este mai r\u0103coroas\u0103, bananele pr\u0103jite sunt poftite mai ales \u00een dup\u0103-amiezile de iarn\u0103, c\u00e2nd c\u0103ldura gogo\u0219ilor \u00eenvelite \u00een h\u00e2rtie e la fel de pre\u021bioas\u0103 ca dulcea\u021ba lor. \u00cen ultimii ani, stilul sudic \u00ab chu\u1ed1i chi\u00ean S\u00e0i G\u00f2n \u00bb, cu gogo\u0219i lungi aproape c\u00e2t o m\u00e2n\u0103 \u00eentreag\u0103, umflate \u0219i foarte crocante, atrage cozi la Hanoi \u00een fiecare iarn\u0103, la fel ca un bun b\u00fan ch\u1ea3 m\u00e2ncat pe trotuar. \n\n\n\nS\u0103 vorbim pu\u021bin despre ingrediente\n\n\n\nAutenticitatea \u00eencepe cu banana. V\u00e2nz\u0103torii aleg banane mici \u0219i coapte, chu\u1ed1i s\u1ee9 sau chu\u1ed1i xi\u00eam, soiuri de tip \u00ab banan\u0103-fig\u0103 \u00bb, suficient de bogate \u00een amidon ca s\u0103-\u0219i p\u0103streze forma \u0219i destul de dulci c\u00e2t s\u0103 se caramelizeze f\u0103r\u0103 s\u0103 se transforme \u00een dulcea\u021b\u0103. Gustul lor este dulce, dar nu gre\u021bos, astfel \u00eenc\u00e2t gogoa\u0219a chiar are gust de banan\u0103 coapt\u0103, nu de bomboan\u0103.\n\n\n\nAluatul se bazeaz\u0103 pe f\u0103ina de orez (b\u1ed9t g\u1ea1o), care, la pr\u0103jire, se transform\u0103 \u00eentr-o coaj\u0103 sub\u021bire \u0219i crocant\u0103, nu \u00eentr-un \u00eenveli\u0219 gros, ca de \u00ab p\u00e2ine \u00bb. Un alt tip de f\u0103in\u0103 sau amidon vine s\u0103 regleze textura : pu\u021bin\u0103 f\u0103in\u0103 de gr\u00e2u aduce structur\u0103 \u0219i lejeritate, \u00een timp ce amidonul de tapioca ofer\u0103 acel crocant u\u0219or elastic pe care \u00eel caut\u0103 buc\u0103tarii vietnamezi, chiar dac\u0103 tinde s\u0103 se \u00eenmoaie pe m\u0103sur\u0103 ce se r\u0103ce\u0219te. Zah\u0103rul sau chiar laptele condensat \u00eendulcit \u00eendulcesc u\u0219or aluatul \u0219i favorizeaz\u0103 rumenirea, iar pu\u021bin lapte de cocos adaug\u0103 gr\u0103sime \u0219i arom\u0103, impregn\u00e2nd crusta cu o not\u0103 tropical\u0103 delicat\u0103.\n\n\n\nCh\u00e8 Chu\u1ed1i este un alt desert vietnamez delicios\n\n\n\nUn praf de sare pune dulcea\u021ba \u00een valoare. Curcuma \u0219i pudra pentru crem\u0103 de desert (b\u1ed9t s\u01b0 t\u1eed) sunt folosite mai ales pentru a intensifica nuan\u021ba aurie. Semin\u021bele de susan negru, pres\u0103rate \u00eentre prima \u0219i a doua pr\u0103jire, se rumenesc la suprafa\u021b\u0103 \u0219i dau fiec\u0103rei gogo\u0219i o arom\u0103 fin\u0103 de nuci. Totul se sprijin\u0103, desigur, pe un ulei curat, neutru, men\u021binut la temperatura potrivit\u0103 : destul de fierbinte c\u00e2t s\u0103 transforme aluatul \u00een falduri crocante, dar nu at\u00e2t de \u00eencins \u00eenc\u00e2t s\u0103 ard\u0103 banana \u00een interior\u2026 sau s-o lase crud\u0103.\n\n\n\nStiluri regionale \u0219i variante de gogo\u0219i cu banane\n\n\n\n\u00cen sud, arhetipul este \u00ab chu\u1ed1i chi\u00ean ph\u1ed3ng \u00bb, acea gogoa\u0219\u0103 aplatizat\u0103, dar umflat\u0103, care se \u00eentinde aproape pe toat\u0103 palma. Aceste gogo\u0219i, f\u0103cute s\u0103 fie \u021binute \u00een m\u00e2n\u0103, au o crust\u0103 spectaculoas\u0103, cu creste crocante, datorit\u0103 unei pr\u0103jiri \u00een doi timpi. Aici, laptele de cocos este aproape obligatoriu \u00een aluat, iar mul\u021bi v\u00e2nz\u0103tori din Saigon adaug\u0103 \u0219i o lingur\u0103 de miere pentru o dulcea\u021b\u0103 floral\u0103 \u0219i o culoare frumos rumenit\u0103. Rezultatul este generos \u0219i exuberant : de dimensiuni mari, foarte crocant \u0219i intens parfumat.\n\n\n\nMai la nord, stilul de zi cu zi este, de mult\u0103 vreme, \u00ab chu\u1ed1i r\u00e1n \u00bb, o banan\u0103 pr\u0103jit\u0103 mai simpl\u0103. Banane mici \u00eentregi sau rondele groase sunt trecute printr-un aluat foarte simplu, apoi pr\u0103jite o singur\u0103 dat\u0103, p\u00e2n\u0103 cap\u0103t\u0103 o crust\u0103 u\u0219or crocant\u0103, \u00eentr-un rezultat mai apropiat de tempura japonez\u0103 dec\u00e2t de gogoa\u0219a umflat\u0103. La Hanoi, ele \u00eempart adesea t\u0103vile cu gogo\u0219i de cartof dulce \u0219i porumb, toate v\u00e2ndute ca gust\u0103ri reconfortante de iarn\u0103 de la simple tarabe de trotuar, la fel de alinatoare ca un bol fumeg\u00e2nd de b\u00fan b\u00f2 Hu\u1ebf.\n\n\n\nCelebrul b\u00fan b\u00f2 Hu\u1ebf \n\n\n\n\u00cen aceste tradi\u021bii exist\u0103 \u0219i variante perfect autentice, precum b\u00e1nh chu\u1ed1i khoai, \u00een care felii de cartof dulce \u0219i, uneori, de taro se cuib\u0103resc l\u00e2ng\u0103 banan\u0103 \u00een aceea\u0219i gogoa\u0219\u0103. Unii preseaz\u0103 cocos ras direct pe fruct sau \u00eel \u00eencorporeaz\u0103 \u00een aluat, pentru un parfum \u0219i mai intens. Nici reinterpret\u0103rile moderne nu lipsesc : banane \u00eenvelite \u00een foi pentru pache\u021bele de prim\u0103var\u0103, pane cu panko sau chiar \u00eengropate sub sos de ciocolat\u0103 \u0219i \u00eenghe\u021bat\u0103, \u00een unele cafenele. \n\n\n\nVersiunile \u00ab mai s\u0103n\u0103toase \u00bb g\u0103tite cu aer cald (\u00een air fryer, de exemplu, ca pentru un pui vietnamez fript) \u00eenlocuiesc o parte din ulei cu mai mult\u0103 comoditate, dar pierd inevitabil ceva din acea crust\u0103 care crap\u0103 sec la prima mu\u0219c\u0103tur\u0103. Oric\u00e2t de bune ar fi uneori, majoritatea gurmanzilor vietnamezi le \u00eencadreaz\u0103 la categoria bi\u1ebfn t\u1ea5u, adic\u0103 varia\u021bii creative, dar nu la acel b\u00e1nh chu\u1ed1i chi\u00ean stradal care tr\u0103ie\u0219te \u00een memoria colectiv\u0103.\n\n\n\nCum se m\u0103n\u00e2nc\u0103 un adev\u0103rat b\u00e1nh chu\u1ed1i chi\u00ean\n\n\n\nPeste tot \u00een Vietnam, banana pr\u0103jit\u0103 \u021bine deopotriv\u0103 de spectacol \u0219i de gust : copii care se adun\u0103 \u00een jurul unui mic c\u0103rucior dup\u0103 \u0219coal\u0103, cu gogo\u0219ile fierbin\u021bi \u00een echilibru pe v\u00e2rful degetelor ; angaja\u021bi de birou care se opresc c\u00e2teva minute pe trotuar pentru o gustare rapid\u0103 \u0219i ieftin\u0103, ca pentru un bol de b\u00f2 b\u00fan sau un ph\u1edf vietnamez ; \u0219i familii care \u00eempart o punguli\u021b\u0103 \u00een timpul unei plimb\u0103ri de sear\u0103, c\u00e2nd aerul se r\u0103core\u0219te.\n\n\n\nPe strad\u0103, gogo\u0219ile sunt servite aproape \u00eentotdeauna simple, puse \u00eentr-un plic de h\u00e2rtie \u00eenc\u0103 u\u0219or translucid de gr\u0103sime, iar v\u00e2nz\u0103torul spune adesea : \u00ab C\u1ea9n th\u1eadn n\u00f3ng ! \u00bb (\u00ab Aten\u021bie, e fierbinte ! \u00bb). Acas\u0103, se adaug\u0103 uneori un fir sub\u021bire de sos dulce de cocos sau un voal fin de zah\u0103r, dar adaosurile r\u0103m\u00e2n discrete, la fel ca la un b\u00e1nh b\u00f2 n\u01b0\u1edbng servit c\u0103ldu\u021b. Momentul perfect pentru a mu\u0219ca din una este, pur \u0219i simplu, atunci c\u00e2nd sim\u021bi nevoia de pu\u021bin confort imediat: \u00eentr-o dup\u0103-amiaz\u0103 cu energia la p\u0103m\u00e2nt sau la o gustare nostalgic\u0103 de weekend.\n\n\n\n\n\n\tGogo\u0219i vietnameze cu banane \u2013 B\u00e1nh Chu\u1ed1i Chi\u00ean\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\tFriteuse asiatique\t\n\t\n\t\tGogo\u0219i cu banane6 banane (bine coapte, mici (sau 3 banane obi\u0219nuite t\u0103iate \u00een dou\u0103))100 g f\u0103in\u0103 de gr\u00e2u200 g f\u0103in\u0103 de orez250 ml lapte de cocos0.5 linguri\u021b\u0103 sare1 linguri\u021b\u0103 suc de l\u0103m\u00e2ie30 g zah\u0103r170 ml ap\u0103 (fiart\u0103 \u0219i r\u0103cit\u0103)ulei neutru (pentru pr\u0103jit (floarea-soarelui, ...))\t\n\t\n\t\tAlege\u021bi banane bine coapte, cur\u0103\u021ba\u021bi-le de coaj\u0103, apoi t\u0103ia\u021bi-le pe lungime \u00een dou\u0103.Pune\u021bi fiecare jum\u0103tate de banan\u0103 \u00eentr-o pung\u0103 de plastic curat\u0103 \u0219i turti\u021bi-o u\u0219or cu latul unui cu\u021bit sau cu un toc\u0103tor.Pune\u021bi \u00eentr-un bol mare f\u0103ina de gr\u00e2u, laptele de cocos, f\u0103ina de orez, apa, sarea, zah\u0103rul \u0219i sucul de l\u0103m\u00e2ie.Amesteca\u021bi p\u00e2n\u0103 c\u00e2nd zah\u0103rul \u0219i sarea se dizolv\u0103 \u0219i ob\u021bine\u021bi un aluat fin, de consisten\u021b\u0103 medie, potrivit pentru a \u00eembr\u0103ca bananele.\u00cencinge\u021bi \u00eentr-o crati\u021b\u0103 ad\u00e2nc\u0103 o cantitate generoas\u0103 de ulei, p\u00e2n\u0103 c\u00e2nd este bine fierbinte.Trece\u021bi fiecare bucat\u0103 de banan\u0103 prin aluat, astfel \u00eenc\u00e2t s\u0103 fie acoperit\u0103 uniform, apoi scufunda\u021bi-o \u00een uleiul \u00eencins.Pr\u0103ji\u021bi p\u00e2n\u0103 c\u00e2nd \u00eenveli\u0219ul cap\u0103t\u0103 o nuan\u021b\u0103 aurie deschis\u0103, apoi scoate\u021bi \u0219i l\u0103sa\u021bi la scurs pentru scurt timp.Trece\u021bi din nou banana pr\u0103jit\u0103 prin aluat pentru un al doilea strat, apoi pune\u021bi-o iar \u00een ulei.Pr\u0103ji\u021bi p\u00e2n\u0103 c\u00e2nd cap\u0103t\u0103 o culoare aurie \u0219i o textur\u0103 foarte crocant\u0103, apoi scoate\u021bi pe h\u00e2rtie absorbant\u0103.A\u0219eza\u021bi gogo\u0219ile pe o farfurie \u0219i servi\u021bi-le fierbin\u021bi.\t\n\t\n\t\t\nDublul strat de aluat d\u0103 o crust\u0103 mai groas\u0103 \u0219i mai crocant\u0103.\nMiezul bananei r\u0103m\u00e2ne moale \u0219i foarte aromat.\nSunt ideale pentru o gustare \u00een familie, mai ales \u00een weekend sau \u00een zilele ploioase.\n\n\t\n\t\n\t\tDessertVietnamienne\t\n\n\n\n\n\nSurse culinare \n\n\n\n\u2022 Banan\u0103 pr\u0103jit\u0103 (Chu\u1ed1i chi\u00ean) \u2013 Wikipedia (vietnamez\u0103) (vi.wikipedia.org)\u2022 Gogo\u0219i cu banane pr\u0103jite care trezesc amintiri \u2013 \u1ee6y ban Nh\u00e0 n\u01b0\u1edbc v\u1ec1 ng\u01b0\u1eddi Vi\u1ec7t Nam \u1edf n\u01b0\u1edbc ngo\u00e0i (vietnamez\u0103) (scov.gov.vn)\u2022 Secretele pentru a reu\u0219i gogo\u0219i cu banane pr\u0103jite parfumate, crocante \u0219i bine umflate, ca la tarab\u0103 \u2013 Beemart (vietnamez\u0103) (beemart.vn)\u2022 Buc\u0103t\u0103rie vietnamez\u0103 reconfortant\u0103: banan\u0103 pr\u0103jit\u0103 (b\u00e1nh chu\u1ed1i chi\u00ean) \u2013 Vietnamese Soul Food (englez\u0103) (kimpham5.blogspot.com)\u2022 Re\u021bet\u0103 de banan\u0103 pr\u0103jit\u0103 vietnamez\u0103 (b\u00e1nh chu\u1ed1i chi\u00ean), de Quyen Nguyen \u2013 Cookpad (englez\u0103) (Cookpad)\u2022 Banan\u0103 pr\u0103jit\u0103 (chu\u1ed1i chi\u00ean \/ b\u00e1nh chu\u1ed1i chi\u00ean) \u2013 Helen\u2019s Recipes (englez\u0103) (helenrecipes.com)\u2022 Bananele pr\u0103jite din Saigon \u00ab ajung \u00bb la Hanoi, fiecare bucat\u0103 fiind lung\u0103 c\u00e2t o m\u00e2n\u0103 \u2013 VnExpress (vietnamez\u0103) (vnexpress.net)\u2022 Gogo\u0219i cu banane pr\u0103jite (b\u00e1nh chu\u1ed1i chi\u00ean) \u2013 VietnameseFood (englez\u0103) (vietnamesefood.com.vn)\u2022 Pr\u0103jitur\u0103 de banane (b\u00e1nh chu\u1ed1i) \u2013 Wikipedia (englez\u0103) 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