{"id":138883,"title":"Nikuman \u2013 chifle japoneze la abur umplute cu porc","modified":"2026-06-15T09:38:43+02:00","plain":"Bao japoneze pufoase, g\u0103tite la abur, ascund un miez suculent de porc aromat cu ghimbir, shiitake \u0219i sos de soia.\n\n\n\n\u00centr-o sear\u0103 \u00eenghe\u021bat\u0103 la Tokyo, degete amor\u021bite caut\u0103 alinare. O g\u0103sesc \u00een norul de abur care se ridic\u0103 din co\u0219ul de bambus al unui v\u00e2nz\u0103tor ambulant. \u00cen\u0103untru a\u0219teapt\u0103 chifle albe ca z\u0103pada, at\u00e2t de pufoase \u00eenc\u00e2t parc\u0103 tremur\u0103; din pliurile lor se strecoar\u0103 arome de soia, ghimbir \u0219i untur\u0103 de porc.\n\n\n\nDe\u0219i \u00ee\u0219i are originile \u00een baozi-ul chinezesc, nikumanul a \u00eemprumutat, de-a lungul secolelor, sobrietatea \u0219i respectul pentru anotimpuri ale buc\u0103t\u0103riei japoneze, devenind gustarea care \u00eenc\u0103lze\u0219te iarna \u00een Japonia. Ast\u0103zi, v\u0103 dezv\u0103lui toate secretele lui.\n\n\n\nCelebrul baozi chinezesc\n\n\n\nDe la baozi la nikuman : 700 de ani de c\u0103l\u0103torie\n\n\n\nPotrivit legendei, strategul din secolul al IIIlea Zhuge Liang ar fi modelat ni\u0219te \u201e chifle-cap \u201d de sacrificiu pentru a \u00eembl\u00e2nzi un zeu al apelor, pun\u00e2nd astfel bazele baozi-ului chinezesc. Mai bine de un mileniu mai t\u00e2rziu, \u00een 1349, c\u0103lug\u0103rul chinez Lin J\u016bnin (Rin J\u014din) ajunge \u00een Japonia cu priceperea sa \u00een materie de mantou \u0219i cu o descoperire ingenioas\u0103 : un aluat fermentat pe baz\u0103 de amazake, capabil s\u0103 creasc\u0103 f\u0103r\u0103 drojdie de brut\u0103rie \u0219i s\u0103 primeasc\u0103 o umplutur\u0103 f\u0103r\u0103 carne, conform preceptelor budiste.\n\n\n\n Manj\u016b-urile dulci, umplute cu past\u0103 de fasole, n\u0103scute din aceast\u0103 tradi\u021bie, au st\u0103p\u00e2nit mesele de ceai vreme de o jum\u0103tate de mileniu : generoase, dar categoric f\u0103r\u0103 carne.\n\n\n\n Pasta de fasole ro\u0219ie se face foarte u\u0219or acas\u0103\n\n\n\nTotul se schimb\u0103 \u00eens\u0103 dup\u0103 restaurarea Meiji, \u00een 1868, care ridic\u0103 tabuul c\u0103rnii \u00een Japonia. \u00cen porturile proasp\u0103t deschise, imigran\u021bii chinezi g\u0103tesc la abur chifle cu porc, numite ch\u016bkaman, pentru marinarii nostalgici. \n\n\n\nLa Kobe, magazinul R\u014dsh\u014dki lanseaz\u0103 denumirea \u201e butaman \u201d \u00een 1915\u202f; micile sale chifle pres\u0103rate cu creve\u021bi st\u00e2rnesc imediat entuziasm \u00een ora\u0219. La cel\u0103lalt cap\u0103t al arhipelagului, casa Nakamuraya din Shinjuku \u00eembl\u00e2nze\u0219te asezonarea \u00een 1927. Atenueaz\u0103 condimentele puternice \u00een favoarea unui echilibru mai delicat \u00eentre sosul de soia \u0219i mirinul\u202f; la \u00eenceputul anilor 1930, nikumanul trece astfel de la statutul de curiozitate din Chinatown la cel de nelipsit al iernii \u00een toat\u0103 \u021bara.\n\n\n\n\u00centr-un registru complet diferit, \u0219i melon pan s-a n\u0103scut din adaptarea japonez\u0103 a p\u00e2inii occidentale\n\n\n\nVaria\u021bii regionale\n\n\n\nCere\u021bi un \u201enikuman\u201d la Tokyo \u0219i vi se va \u00eentinde o chifl\u0103. \u00cencerca\u021bi acela\u0219i lucru la Osaka\u202f; ve\u021bi primi o privire nedumerit\u0103 : acolo, unde niku \u00eenseamn\u0103 vit\u0103, v\u00e2nz\u0103torii dau aceleia\u0219i chifle cu porc numele de \u201ebutaman\u201d. \n\n\n\nNu v\u0103 trebuie multe ingrediente ca s\u0103 face\u021bi nikuman acas\u0103\n\n\n\n\u00cen Kansai, toate simpatiile merg c\u0103tre casa 551 Horai\u202f; cutiile ei roz umplu trenurile de \u00eentoarcere cu aroma lor, iar fiecare chifl\u0103 este \u00eenso\u021bit\u0103 de un v\u00e2rf de mu\u0219tar karashi care desfund\u0103 sinusurile. La Kobe, centenara R\u014dsh\u014dki ofer\u0103 \u00een continuare butaman c\u00e2t o \u00eembuc\u0103tur\u0103, \u00een timp ce v\u00e2nz\u0103torii ambulan\u021bi din Chinatown, la Yokohama, expun exemplare de aproape 15 cm \u00een diametru.\n\n\n\n\u0218i ritmul anotimpurilor face parte din ritual. De la sf\u00e2r\u0219itul lui august sau \u00eenceputul lui septembrie, magazinele de proximitate instaleaz\u0103 vitrine \u00eenc\u0103lzite cu abur care nu se sting dec\u00e2t prim\u0103vara\u202f; naveti\u0219tii \u00ee\u0219i iau de acolo o chifl\u0103 cu acela\u0219i reflex cu care al\u021bii \u00ee\u0219i cump\u0103r\u0103 o cafea. \n\n\n\nPe 25 ianuarie se marcheaz\u0103 neoficial \u201eZiua ch\u016bkaman\u201d, dat\u0103 aleas\u0103 fiindc\u0103 marcheaz\u0103 cel mai rece moment al anului\u202f: genul de diminea\u021b\u0103 \u00een care o chifl\u0103 \u00eenvelit\u0103 \u00een h\u00e2rtie \u021bine \u0219i de buiot\u0103 de buzunar, \u0219i de mic dejun.\n\n\n\n\n\n\tNikuman \u2013 chifle japoneze pufoase la abur, umplute cu porc\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\tAluat150 g de f\u0103in\u0103 de for\u021b\u0103 (10-12 % proteine)150 g de f\u0103in\u0103 slab\u0103 (5-10 % proteine)30 g de zah\u0103r3 g de sare6 g de drojdie uscat\u01033 g de praf de copt90 g de ap\u0103 c\u0103ldu\u021b\u0103 (35-38 \u00b0C)65 g de sake20 g de ulei vegetalUmplutur\u0103350 g de carne tocat\u0103 de porc (aprox. 30 % gr\u0103sime)150 g de ceap\u0103 (tocat\u0103 m\u0103runt)150 g de l\u0103stari de bambus (prefier\u021bi, t\u0103ia\u021bi \u00een cubule\u021be)15 g de ciuperci shiitake uscate (rehidratate, t\u0103iate \u00een cubule\u021be)5 g de ghimbir (ras fin)2.5 linguri de sos de soia light1.5 linguri de sos de stridii2.5 linguri de sake pentru g\u0103tit1.5 linguri\u021be de Wei-pa (sau past\u0103 concentrat\u0103 pentru sup\u0103 de pui)1.5 linguri de zah\u0103r1.5 linguri de ulei de susansare \u0219i piper (dup\u0103 gust)\t\n\t\n\t\tPrepararea aluatuluiAmesteca\u021bi cele dou\u0103 tipuri de f\u0103in\u0103, zah\u0103rul, sarea, drojdia uscat\u0103 \u0219i praful de copt \u00eentr-un bol.Ad\u0103uga\u021bi sake-ul \u0219i aproximativ dou\u0103 treimi din apa c\u0103ldu\u021b\u0103, amesteca\u021bi, apoi turna\u021bi din apa r\u0103mas\u0103 doar c\u00e2t este nevoie pentru a ob\u021bine un aluat grunjos.Fr\u0103m\u00e2nta\u021bi aluatul pe blatul de lucru timp de 10 minute, \u00eencorpora\u021bi uleiul vegetal, apoi mai fr\u0103m\u00e2nta\u021bi \u00eenc\u0103 5 minute, p\u00e2n\u0103 devine neted.Forma\u021bi o bil\u0103 de aluat, acoperi\u021bi \u0219i l\u0103sa\u021bi-o la dospit 15 minute la 30 \u00b0C.Prepararea umpluturiiRehidrata\u021bi ciupercile shiitake, toca\u021bi m\u0103runt ceapa \u0219i l\u0103starii de bambus \u0219i rade\u021bi ghimbirul.\u00centr-un bol, amesteca\u021bi carnea tocat\u0103 de porc, legumele preg\u0103tite, sosul de soia, sosul de stridii, sake-ul pentru g\u0103tit, Wei-pa, zah\u0103rul, uleiul de susan, sarea \u0219i piperul p\u00e2n\u0103 ob\u021bine\u021bi o umplutur\u0103 omogen\u0103 \u0219i lipicioas\u0103, apoi \u00eemp\u0103r\u021bi\u021bi-o \u00een 10 por\u021bii.Modelare \u0219i g\u0103tireDezgaza\u021bi aluatul, \u00eemp\u0103r\u021bi\u021bi-l \u00een 10 buc\u0103\u021bi, modela\u021bi fiecare bucat\u0103 sub form\u0103 de bil\u0103, acoperi\u021bi-le \u0219i l\u0103sa\u021bi-le s\u0103 se odihneasc\u0103 10 minute.\u00centinde\u021bi fiecare bucat\u0103 \u00eentr-un disc, l\u0103s\u00e2nd centrul pu\u021bin mai gros, pune\u021bi o por\u021bie de umplutur\u0103, plisa\u021bi marginile pentru a sigila, apoi a\u0219eza\u021bi fiecare bao pe un p\u0103trat de h\u00e2rtie de copt.L\u0103sa\u021bi bao-urile la dospit 10-15 minute la 35 \u00b0C.G\u0103ti\u021bi bao-urile la abur, deasupra unei ape care clocote\u0219te, timp de 15 minute, apoi scoate\u021bi-le din co\u0219 \u0219i servi\u021bi-le fierbin\u021bi.\t\n\t\n\t\t\nOp\u0103rirea l\u0103starilor de bambus timp de 10 secunde reduce astringen\u021ba \u0219i le intensific\u0103 aroma.\nUn aluat pu\u021bin mai gros \u00een centru \u00eel \u00eempiedic\u0103 s\u0103 se rup\u0103 atunci c\u00e2nd umplutura \u00ee\u0219i las\u0103 sucurile \u00een timpul g\u0103tirii la abur.\n\n\t\n\t\n\t\tDim sumJaponaise\t\n\n\n\n\n\nSurse culinare\n\n\n\n\u2022 Nikuman (chifle japoneze cu porc la abur) \u2013 Just One Cookbook (englez\u0103)\u2022 Baozi \u2013 Wikipedia (englez\u0103)\u2022 Istoria butamanului (nikuman\/ch\u016bkaman) \u2013 Butaman Shop (japonez\u0103)\u2022 De ce a urmat nikumanul o cale diferit\u0103 de manj\u016b (wagashi)? \u2013 \u7687\u671d (K\u014dch\u014d) (japonez\u0103)\u2022 Butamanurile originale de la \u201eR\u014dsh\u014dki\u201d \u2013 KOBE \u8c5a\u9945\u30b5\u30df\u30c3\u30c8 (japonez\u0103)\u2022 Ch\u016bka-man \u2013 istoria produsului \u2013 \u65b0\u5bbf\u4e2d\u6751\u5c4b (japonez\u0103)\u2022 Nikuman \u2013 re\u021bet\u0103 japonez\u0103 tradi\u021bional\u0103 \u0219i autentic\u0103 \u2013 196 Flavors (englez\u0103)\u2022 Nikuman \u2014 chifle japoneze cu porc la abur \u2013 La Fuji Mama (englez\u0103)\u2022 Prima dat\u0103 c\u00e2nd fac nikuman (chifle cu porc la abur)! \u2013 Reddit (englez\u0103)\u2022 De cas\u0103: chifle cu porc la abur! \u2013 Reddit (englez\u0103)\u2022 Cel mai bun butaman din Osaka: 551 Horai \u0219i Horai \u2013 Kansai Odyssey (englez\u0103)\u2022 Cum se fac nikuman (chifle cu porc la abur, \u00een stil chinezesc)\u2026 \u2013 Reddit (englez\u0103)\u2022 Una dintre cele mai frumoase descoperiri culinare simple din via\u021ba mea de adult. \u2013 Reddit (englez\u0103)","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/138883","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=138883"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/138883\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/85391"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=138883"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=138883"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=138883"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}