{"id":138453,"title":"Baozi \u2013 chifle chineze\u0219ti la abur","modified":"2026-06-15T09:30:27+02:00","plain":"Ridica\u021bi capacul unui co\u0219 din bambus, fie c\u0103 sunte\u021bi \u00een hutongurile din Beijing, fie \u00eentr-un food court din Flushing. Scena este mereu aceea\u0219i: un \u0219uierat de abur, un nor cu arom\u0103 de gr\u00e2u cald \u0219i r\u00e2nduri de chifle dolofane, cu coaj\u0103 lucioas\u0103. V\u00e2nz\u0103torii se mi\u0219c\u0103 \u00een ritm alert: capace care pocnesc, cle\u0219ti care se lovesc \u00eentre ei.\u00a0\n\n\n\nBao, sau baozi, este unul dintre cele mai iubite \u0219i mai consumate preparate din China \u2014 \u0219i, de altfel, \u0219i de mine. Totul la el este delicios: textura pufoas\u0103 a aluatului \u0219i gustul intens al umpluturii, perfec\u021bionate dup\u0103 nenum\u0103rate \u00eencerc\u0103ri.\n\n\n\n\u00cen spatele modestului trio f\u0103in\u0103, ap\u0103 \u0219i carne tocat\u0103 se ascunde o art\u0103 at\u00e2t de codificat\u0103, \u00eenc\u00e2t \u00een Nord brutarii \u00eenc\u0103 num\u0103r\u0103 pliurile pentru a evalua noble\u021bea unei chifle. \u00centr-o \u021bar\u0103 \u00een care cafenelele servesc ast\u0103zi la fel de bine cl\u0103tite cu c\u0103rbune activ, c\u00e2t \u0219i cartofi pr\u0103ji\u021bi cu trufe, dezbaterile despre ce \u00eenseamn\u0103 un baozi autentic aprind \u00eenc\u0103 forumurile. Miza dep\u0103\u0219e\u0219te simplul pr\u00e2nz: s\u0103 mu\u0219ti din baoziul ideal \u00eenseamn\u0103 s\u0103 gu\u0219ti din optsprezece secole de ingeniozitate culinar\u0103 chinezeasc\u0103 \u0219i din farmecul buc\u0103t\u0103riei de zi cu zi, cald\u0103 \u0219i reconfortant\u0103.\n\n\n\nDescoperi\u021bi \u0219i varianta japonez\u0103: nikuman\n\n\n\nDe la miturile despre mantou la mesele imperiale : 1 800 de ani de istorie\n\n\n\nPrima poveste despre o chifl\u0103 umplut\u0103 \u021bine deopotriv\u0103 de strategie \u0219i de sacrificiu. \u00cen jurul secolului al III-lea d.Hr., strategul Zhuge Liang ar fi modelat aluat \u00een jurul c\u0103rnii pentru a imita capete omene\u0219ti, apoi ar fi aruncat p\u00e2inile \u00eentr-un fluviu dezl\u0103n\u021buit, pentru ca spiritele s\u0103 le ofere trupelor sale o trecere sigur\u0103. Fie c\u0103 este adev\u0103rat\u0103 sau nu, aceast\u0103 poveste sugereaz\u0103 o idee simpl\u0103 : aluatul de gr\u00e2u poate \u00eenveli la fel de bine sens, c\u00e2t \u0219i umplutur\u0103.\n\n\n\n\u00cen epoca Song (960-1279), cuv\u00e2ntul \u201ebaozi\u201d apare \u00een registrele pie\u021bei al\u0103turi de combina\u021bii demne de visul unui buc\u0103tar : mantou cu miel, ou\u0103 de crab sau chiar porc confiat \u00een zah\u0103r. Buc\u0103tarii cur\u021bii, \u00een Chang\u2019anul din timpul Tang, mergeau \u0219i mai departe, strecur\u00e2nd gr\u0103sime de urs \u0219i carne de v\u00e2nat \u00eentr-o delicates\u0103 numit\u0103 y\u00faji\u0101nmian : potrivit Cronicilor gastronomice ale Tang, palatul imperial pretindea fastul chiar \u0219i \u00eentr-o chifl\u0103.\n\n\n\nS\u0103 trecem acum la sf\u00e2r\u0219itul dinastiei Qing. \u00cen 1858, \u00een ora\u0219ul portuar \u0219i feroviar Tianjin se na\u0219te Goubuli, pr\u0103v\u0103lia care cristalizeaz\u0103 stilul nordic modern : aluat semidospit, porc foarte suculent \u0219i, potrivit tradi\u021biei locale, exact optsprezece pliuri. Mai t\u00e2rziu, odat\u0103 cu dezvoltarea c\u0103ii ferate, v\u00e2nz\u0103torii ambulan\u021bi popularizeaz\u0103 chiflele Goubuli \u00een g\u0103rile din Nord. De-a lungul secolelor, baozi a trecut de la ofrand\u0103 ritualic\u0103 la gustare de strad\u0103, dar \u00een fiecare nor de abur mai plute\u0219te \u00eenc\u0103 un parfum de legend\u0103 \u0219i de tradi\u021bie.\n\n\n\nCum recuno\u0219ti un baozi autentic?\n\n\n\nAluatul porne\u0219te de la o f\u0103in\u0103 de gr\u00e2u bogat\u0103 \u00een gluten, ap\u0103 \u0219i o mic\u0103 bucat\u0103 de maia (sau drojdie de panifica\u021bie) din ziua precedent\u0103. Aluatul dospe\u0219te doar pe jum\u0103tate, \u00eenainte ca un strop de ap\u0103 alcalin\u0103 s\u0103-l tempereze, neutraliz\u00e2nd aciditatea \u0219i str\u00e2ng\u00e2nd re\u021belele de gluten, astfel \u00eenc\u00e2t miezul g\u0103tit s\u0103 r\u0103m\u00e2n\u0103 deopotriv\u0103 aerat \u0219i elastic. Aluatul ideal trebuie s\u0103 aib\u0103 culoarea unui caju crud, niciodat\u0103 albul imaculat al bao-urilor cantoneze cu char siu, vedetele dim sum-ului, ob\u021binute din f\u0103in\u0103 albit\u0103 \u0219i, adesea, cu pu\u021bin\u0103 pudr\u0103 de copt.\n\n\n\nPlierea este o coregrafie bine pus\u0103 la punct. V\u00e2nz\u0103torii cu experien\u021b\u0103 ghideaz\u0103 discul de aluat \u00eentr-o mi\u0219care lent\u0103, spiralat\u0103, de ciupire, p\u00e2n\u0103 ob\u021bin o coroan\u0103 de pliuri (\u00een mod tradi\u021bional optsprezece la Tianjin) care sigileaz\u0103 chifla. O cus\u0103tur\u0103 care se deschide \u00een co\u0219 tr\u0103deaz\u0103 imediat o lips\u0103 de m\u0103iestrie : aici, tehnica face parte din gust.\n\n\n\n\u00cen\u0103untru, umplutura este aproape lichid\u0103. Spata de porc, tocat\u0103 grosier (aproximativ 70 % carne slab\u0103 \u0219i 30 % gr\u0103sime), se bate cu sup\u0103 rece p\u00e2n\u0103 absoarbe aproape o cincime din propria greutate, devenind lucioas\u0103 \u0219i elastic\u0103. Sosul de soia, vinul Shaoxing, ghimbirul \u0219i ceapa verde parfumeaz\u0103 amestecul, iar un strop final de ulei de susan pr\u0103jit \u00eei d\u0103 nota de fundal. \n\n\n\nLegumele (varz\u0103, ridiche sau frunze de fenicul, iarna) sunt s\u0103rate, apoi stoarse bine \u00eenainte de a se amesteca \u00een carne. Scopul : un miez suculent, aproape lichid, care izbucne\u0219te \u00een zeam\u0103 savuroas\u0103 de \u00eendat\u0103 ce din\u021bii str\u0103pung \u00eenveli\u0219ul. Puri\u0219tii se pot contrazice pe tema maielei sau a drojdiei instant, dar sunt de acord asupra unei reguli de baz\u0103 : \u00eenveli\u0219 sub\u021bire, umplutur\u0103 generoas\u0103 \u0219i g\u0103tire la abur, niciodat\u0103 la cuptor.\n\n\n\nVariantele de baozi\n\n\n\nLua\u021bi un tren matinal \u00een orice direc\u021bie \u0219i defini\u021bia lui baozi se extinde. La Tianjin, baoziul clasic cu porc \u00eemparte co\u0219ul cu versiuni \u201eTrei delicii\u201d, parfumate cu creve\u021bi \u0219i ou.\n\n\n\nShanghai prefer\u0103 un \u00eenveli\u0219 aproape translucid, foarte pu\u021bin sau deloc dospit, pentru xiaolongbao, sau pr\u0103je\u0219te aluatul pentru a ob\u021bine o baz\u0103 crocant\u0103, pres\u0103rat\u0103 cu susan, \u00een shengjianbao. Buc\u0103tarii cantonezi \u00ee\u0219i albesc f\u0103ina, \u00eendulcesc aluatul \u0219i las\u0103 sosul char siu s\u0103 coloreze miezul \u00eentr-un bronz ro\u0219iatic, iar partea de sus se crap\u0103 \u00een trei fante distinctive.\n\n\n\nSheng jian bao\n\n\n\nSpre vest : v\u00e2nz\u0103torii uiguri \u00ee\u0219i lipesc kao baozi-urile umplute cu miel de pere\u021bii \u00eencin\u0219i ai unui tandoor. Dincolo de Marea Chinei de Sud, pau-urile malaeziene umplute cu un curry de cartofi parfumat cu turmeric umplu aerul de arome, \u00een timp ce siopao-urile filipineze ascund un pui adobo \u00een\u0103bu\u0219it \u00een sos de soia. \n\n\n\nDeliciosul pui adobo\n\n\n\nPotrivit etnologului culinar Yan X. Li (Universitatea din Nankin) \u0219i mai multor lucr\u0103ri publicate \u00een revista Food Heritage, din clipa \u00een care aluatul de gr\u00e2u nu mai este g\u0103tit la abur, preparatul \u00eenceteaz\u0103 s\u0103 mai fie un baozi. Diversitatea nu dilueaz\u0103 identitatea ; dimpotriv\u0103, dovede\u0219te c\u0103 o singur\u0103 idee se poate adapta f\u0103r\u0103 s\u0103-\u0219i piard\u0103 farmecul pufos.\n\n\n\nSfaturi pentru bao reu\u0219i\u021bi\n\n\n\nRespecta\u021bi cu grij\u0103 cantit\u0103\u021bile pentru aluat! Totu\u0219i, \u00een func\u021bie de tipul de f\u0103in\u0103 folosit, cantitatea de ap\u0103 poate varia. Aici, numai experien\u021ba v\u0103 va ajuta s\u0103 g\u0103si\u021bi propor\u021bia potrivit\u0103.\n\n\n\nDac\u0103 aluatul devine lipicios, folosi\u021bi amidon de porumb ca s\u0103 pudra\u021bi suprafe\u021bele de lucru; func\u021bioneaz\u0103 excelent! \n\n\n\nSincer, re\u021beta aceasta cere timp, dar tocmai asta face prima mu\u0219c\u0103tur\u0103 \u0219i mai satisf\u0103c\u0103toare. E pur \u0219i simplu divin\u0103. \n\n\n\nFolosesc o umplutur\u0103 foarte asem\u0103n\u0103toare \u0219i pentru col\u021buna\u0219ii mei chineze\u0219ti\n\n\n\n\n\n\tBaozi \u2013 chifle chineze\u0219ti pufoase la abur\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\tALUAT250 g f\u0103in\u0103 de gr\u00e2u5 g sare8 g zah\u0103r4 g drojdie instant3 g praf de copt130 g ap\u0103UMPLUTUR\u0102140 g varz\u0103 chinezeasc\u01032 fire de ceap\u0103 verde400 g carne de porc tocat\u01033 linguri sos de soia light1 linguri\u021b\u0103 ulei de susan1 linguri\u021b\u0103 vin Shaoxing0.5 linguri\u021b\u0103 ghimbir tocat m\u0103runt1 linguri\u021b\u0103 sare2 ou\u01031 lingur\u0103 amidon de porumb3 linguri ap\u0103 sau sup\u0103 de porc ori de pui\t\n\t\n\t\tPREPARAREA UMPLUTURIIOp\u0103ri\u021bi varza 5 min \u00een ap\u0103 clocotit\u0103, apoi l\u0103sa\u021bi-o s\u0103 se r\u0103ceasc\u0103.\u00centre timp, toca\u021bi m\u0103runt \u0219i amesteca\u021bi toate ingredientele, mai pu\u021bin carnea de porc.Toca\u021bi m\u0103runt varza, stoarce\u021bi-o bine de ap\u0103 \u0219i ad\u0103uga\u021bi-o peste restul ingredientelor.Ad\u0103uga\u021bi carnea de porc \u0219i amesteca\u021bi energic 5 min cu o lingur\u0103. AMESTECA\u021aI \u00ceNTOTDEAUNA \u00ceN ACELA\u0218I SENS. Da\u021bi compozi\u021bia la frigider minimum 1 h.PREPARAREA ALUATULUIAmesteca\u021bi toate ingredientele, fr\u0103m\u00e2nta\u021bi 10 min, apoi l\u0103sa\u021bi aluatul s\u0103 dospeasc\u0103 p\u00e2n\u0103 \u00ee\u0219i dubleaz\u0103 volumul, aproximativ 1 h.\u00cemp\u0103r\u021bi\u021bi aluatul \u00een 4 bile egale, \u00eentinde\u021bi-le cu sucitorul \u0219i forma\u021bi baozii, umpl\u00e2ndu-i cu compozi\u021bia de carne.G\u0103ti\u021bi-i la abur 15 min.\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\tDim sum, Entr\u00e9eChinoise","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/138453","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=138453"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/138453\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/157"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=138453"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=138453"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=138453"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}