{"id":115312,"title":"Ultimate Guide to Hanoi: Old Quarter, Street Food, Temples & Day Trips","modified":"2026-02-17T11:27:21+01:00","plain":"Hanoi seizes your senses before you even have a chance to settle in. You step off the plane into warm, humid air, and within minutes you\u2019re on the back of a Grab, hypnotised by a river of motorbikes that splits around your vehicle like water around a stone. There are no lanes. There are no real rules\u2014at least none you\u2019ll grasp in the first 48 hours. Someone is grilling pork on the sidewalk. A woman in a conical hat (n\u00f3n l\u00e1) balances two baskets of mangoes on a yoke, slipping through traffic without looking up. An old man sits on a plastic stool the size of a dinner plate, sipping tea and reading the newspaper while the city roars around him.\n\n\n\nThat\u2019s Hanoi. It\u2019s loud, chaotic, sometimes exasperating, and it\u2019s one of the most magnetic cities I\u2019ve encountered in Southeast Asia. The city runs on a frequency that takes a day or two to tune into, but once you do, everything clicks.\n\n\n\nThe city's street food alone would justify the trip. History and architecture add layers that Saigon and the southern beach towns simply can\u2019t match. And from Hanoi you\u2019re only a short ride away from Ha Long Bay, Ninh Binh, Sapa and the most stunning landscapes in northern Vietnam. For French travellers, Hanoi holds a special resonance: this is where the heart of French Indochina beat, and traces of that era are everywhere, from the plane-tree-lined boulevards to the ochre-yellow facades of colonial buildings.\n\n\n\nThis guide covers everything you need for a first trip to Hanoi and northern Vietnam. I detail the Old Quarter, the unmissable dishes and where to find them, the activities that are truly worth your time, practical logistics, the best neighbourhoods to stay, and a 5-to-7-day itinerary. To dive deeper into each topic, I\u2019ve written five dedicated guides that are linked throughout the article.\n\n\n\nHanoi at a glance\n\n\n\nHanoi is the capital of Vietnam and one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Southeast Asia. The city was originally called Th\u0103ng Long (\u201cRising Dragon\u201d) when Emperor L\u00fd Th\u00e1i T\u1ed5 moved the capital here in AD 1010. The name changed to Hanoi (\u201cCity Between Rivers\u201d) in 1831 under the Nguy\u1ec5n dynasty. It sits on the banks of the Red River (S\u00f4ng H\u1ed3ng), which explains the flat terrain and the occasional monsoon flooding.\n\n\n\nGreater Hanoi's population is around 8.5 million. It\u2019s smaller and quieter than Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)\u2014though \u201cquiet\u201d is a very relative word in a Vietnamese city. Hanoi feels older, more layered, more atmospheric.\n\n\n\nFrench colonial architecture remains omnipresent in the wide tree-lined boulevards, mustard-yellow facades and Art-Deco buildings that now house government offices and endearingly old-school caf\u00e9s. Anyone familiar with the streets of Paris will recognise something in these Haussmann-like proportions transposed to the tropics. Beside these relics, the Old Quarter\u2019s narrow tube houses squeeze into plots only three metres wide, stretching 40 or 50 metres deep.\n\n\n\nClimate and when to visit\n\n\n\nUnlike southern Vietnam, which is hot year-round, Hanoi experiences four distinct seasons\u2014a surprise to many travellers.\n\n\n\n\nCool, dry season (November to April): The best time to visit. From November to January it\u2019s cool (15\u201322 \u00b0C during the day, dropping to 8\u201312 \u00b0C at night in December and January). From February to April temperatures climb again. Pack layers for the winter months. This is peak tourist season, so hotel prices rise and the Old Quarter is crowded, but the weather makes walking the city a pleasure.\nHot, humid season (May to September): Temperatures soar to 35\u201340 \u00b0C with stifling humidity. Afternoon thunderstorms are frequent, sometimes heavy enough to flood the streets for an hour. Mornings are usually clear. Prices drop, crowds thin. If you can handle heat, it\u2019s a perfectly viable time to visit.\nShoulder month (October): October is often ideal. The worst of the summer heat is gone, rainfall decreases, and high season hasn\u2019t started yet. Think of it as the perfect sweet spot.\n\n\n\n\nOne thing nobody tells you: winters in Hanoi can feel bone-chilling. The temperatures look mild on paper, but the humidity and the lack of central heating in most buildings make 12 \u00b0C in Hanoi feel colder than 5 \u00b0C in Paris. If you visit in December or January, bring a real jacket, not just a windbreaker.\n\n\n\nThe Old Quarter and cultural heritage\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe Old Quarter is the first picture most people have in mind when they think of Hanoi: a dense grid of narrow streets, each historically named after the craft once practiced there. H\u00e0ng Gai (Silk Street), H\u00e0ng B\u1ea1c (Silver Street), H\u00e0ng M\u00e3 (Paper Offerings Street). Some streets still match their original trade. Others have morphed into caf\u00e9s and souvenir shops, but the old guild system is still legible in the architecture.\n\n\n\nWandering the Old Quarter is an activity in itself. The streets are narrow, the sidewalks clogged with parked motorbikes and plastic-stool caf\u00e9s, so you inevitably end up walking in the roadway, among the traffic. It sounds terrifying, and for the first 30 minutes it is. Then you pick up the rhythm: walk slowly, walk predictably, don\u2019t stop abruptly, and the motorbikes flow around you like water around a rock. That image comes from travellers who\u2019ve figured it out, and it\u2019s perfectly true.\n\n\n\nHo\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm Lake sits at the southern edge of the Old Quarter and is the city\u2019s heart. It\u2019s not large, but it\u2019s beautiful\u2014especially at dawn when hundreds of Hanoians gather on its banks for tai chi, ballroom dance, laughter yoga and morning exercise. I recommend getting up early at least once to witness this scene. Around 5:30 or 6:00 a.m., the lakeside is filled with people of all ages moving in synchrony. It\u2019s free, it\u2019s authentic, and it gives you a glimpse of how Hanoi really lives beyond the tourist layer.\n\n\n\nOn Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings, the streets around Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm Lake are closed to traffic and turn into a vast pedestrian zone. Families come out, children play, street performers set up, and the whole neighbourhood turns into a gentle party. If your visit coincides with a weekend, don\u2019t miss it.\n\n\n\nCan\u2019t-miss heritage sites include the Temple of Literature (V\u0103n Mi\u1ebfu), Vietnam\u2019s first university founded in AD 1070, and H\u1ecfa L\u00f2 Prison (the \u201cHanoi Hilton\u201d), which chronicles both its French colonial history as a prison for Vietnamese revolutionaries and its later use during the American war.\n\n\n\nThe Vietnam Museum of Ethnology, located farther from the centre in C\u1ea7u Gi\u1ea5y District, is often praised by travellers for its detailed collections on Vietnam\u2019s 54 ethnic groups. The Vietnamese Women\u2019s Museum, near Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm Lake, is another that visitors report as surprisingly well curated.\n\n\n\nFor the full rundown of every temple, museum and hidden nook\u2014including Train Street (which divides opinions and is regularly closed by police), Long Bi\u00ean Bridge at sunrise, and the French Quarter\u2014see the complete heritage and sightseeing guide to Hanoi.\n\n\n\nStreet food and restaurants\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHanoi might be the best street-food city I\u2019ve ever eaten in. That\u2019s a bold claim, and I\u2019ve scoured Bangkok, which is no slouch (see the Bangkok guide for comparison).\n\n\n\nBut Hanoi\u2019s food culture has a specificity that Bangkok\u2019s vastness sometimes dilutes. In Hanoi, one stall often serves a single dish, and that\u2019s all it has made for 20 or 30 years. The menu is the dish. When you serve only one thing, it\u2019s usually exceptional.\n\n\n\nHere\u2019s what to eat, in order of priority.\n\n\n\nB\u00fan ch\u1ea3. It\u2019s the king of the Hanoian lunch. Grilled pork patties and sliced pork belly in a sweet-and-sour broth, served with rice vermicelli and a plate of fresh herbs. You dip the noodles and pork into the broth and eat. It\u2019s simple, and for many travellers it defines Hanoi.\n\n\n\nB\u00fan Ch\u1ea3 H\u01b0\u01a1ng Li\u00ean on L\u00ea V\u0103n H\u01b0u Street became famous after Obama and Anthony Bourdain stopped by in 2016. It\u2019s still good, though some Hanoians prefer B\u00fan Ch\u1ea3 34 or B\u00fan Ch\u1ea3 \u0110\u1eafc Kim for a more neighbourhood vibe. A full meal costs 40,000\u201360,000 VND (about \u20ac1.50\u20132.30).\n\n\n\nEgg coffee (c\u00e0 ph\u00ea tr\u1ee9ng). Beaten egg yolk with sweetened condensed milk and sugar, spooned over a strong Vietnamese coffee. It sounds odd. It tastes like liquid tiramisu. Caf\u00e9 Gi\u1ea3ng on Nguy\u1ec5n H\u1eefu Hu\u00e2n Street is the original creator and the most famous address. Caf\u00e9 \u0110inh, hidden upstairs in a building overlooking Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm Lake, is rougher but offers a better view. A cup costs 25,000\u201335,000 VND (about \u20ac1).\n\n\n\nPh\u1edf. Hanoi ph\u1edf is the original. The broth is clearer and more restrained than the southern version\u2014fewer herbs, fewer add-ons. Just a good bone broth, rice noodles, and thinly sliced beef or chicken. Ph\u1edf Th\u00ecn on L\u00f2 \u0110\u00fac Street and Ph\u1edf 10 on L\u00fd Qu\u1ed1c S\u01b0 Street are two reliable addresses. A bowl costs 40,000\u201360,000 VND (\u20ac1.50\u20132.30). Eat it for breakfast, like Hanoians do.\n\n\n\nCh\u1ea3 c\u00e1 (turmeric-dill fish). It\u2019s a northern specialty you won\u2019t find properly made anywhere else in Vietnam.\n\n\n\nFish (usually snakehead or catfish) seared with turmeric and dill at your table in a sizzling pan, then mixed with rice noodles, peanuts and fresh herbs. Ch\u1ea3 C\u00e1 L\u00e3 V\u1ecdng on Ch\u1ea3 C\u00e1 Street is the historic restaurant. A meal costs 150,000\u2013200,000 VND (\u20ac5.70\u20137.60), making it one of the pricier street-food experiences, but it\u2019s unique to Hanoi.\n\n\n\nB\u00e1nh cu\u1ed1n. Steamed rice rolls stuffed with minced pork and wood-ear mushrooms, topped with fried shallots and served with n\u01b0\u1edbc m\u1eafm. It\u2019s a breakfast dish. Look for it at morning stalls, especially around the Old Quarter.\n\n\n\nPh\u1edf cu\u1ed1n. Fresh, un-soupy ph\u1edf sheets rolled around beef and herbs. A speciality of the Tr\u00fac B\u1ea1ch area, especially Ng\u0169 X\u00e3 Street. Ph\u1edf Cu\u1ed1n H\u01b0\u01a1ng Mai is the reference stall.\n\n\n\nB\u00e1nh m\u00ec. B\u00e1nh M\u00ec 25 near Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm Lake is the most famous tourist spot, and the queue proves it. The bread is good (a legacy of French baking). But anonymous street carts sell b\u00e1nh m\u00ec just as tasty for 15,000\u201325,000 VND (\u20ac0.60\u20131) without the wait. Don\u2019t limit yourself to one famous address.\n\n\n\nB\u00fan ri\u00eau. Crab noodle soup with a tomato-based broth. Little known to tourists, adored by anyone who tries it. Just ask around for the nearest b\u00fan ri\u00eau stall; there\u2019s one on every corner.\n\n\n\nHow to tackle street food\n\n\n\nA guided street-food tour on your first evening is the best investment you can make. For US$15\u201325 (\u20ac14\u201323), a local guide will lead you through five to eight dishes, show you how to order, explain the condiments (those little bowls of chili, n\u01b0\u1edbc m\u1eafm and lime), and teach you how to perch on the tiny plastic stools without falling over. After that, you\u2019ll have the confidence and vocabulary to eat on your own for the rest of your stay.\n\n\n\nBeyond that first tour, look for stalls with one dish on the menu and a crowd of locals on stools. If Vietnamese office workers are queueing, that\u2019s your signal. You don\u2019t bargain at food stalls where prices are posted. Haggling is for markets like \u0110\u1ed3ng Xu\u00e2n, not for a bowl of ph\u1edf.\n\n\n\nDownload Google Translate with the offline Vietnamese pack before you arrive. Older street-food vendors speak little or no English (or French), and showing pictures isn\u2019t always enough. The camera-translation function works surprisingly well on Vietnamese menus.\n\n\n\nFor the full food guide with more restaurants, prices and neighbourhood-by-neighbourhood recommendations, see the complete street-food and restaurant guide to Hanoi.\n\n\n\nActivities, excursions and day trips\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHanoi itself takes two to three days to explore properly. But the city\u2019s main strength is its role as a base for northern Vietnam. With five to seven days you can see the city and add one or two of the region\u2019s best side trips. For the complete list of activities, hidden corners, nightlife and excursion logistics, see the activities and excursions guide to Hanoi.\n\n\n\nIn the city\n\n\n\nBeyond the Old Quarter, temples and museums already mentioned, here are the activities travellers consistently recommend.\n\n\n\nThe bia h\u01a1i corners. Bia h\u01a1i is fresh draft beer brewed daily and served straight from metal kegs at street stands. A glass costs 5,000\u201310,000 VND (\u20ac0.20\u20130.40), making it arguably the cheapest draft beer on earth. You sit on a plastic stool about 15 centimetres off the ground, surrounded by Hanoians, and drink while watching the motorbike ballet.\n\n\n\nThe intersection of T\u1ea1 Hi\u1ec7n and L\u01b0\u01a1ng Ng\u1ecdc Quy\u1ebfn streets in the Old Quarter is the most famous bia h\u01a1i crossroads, though it\u2019s become quite touristy. For a more local vibe, seek out a bia h\u01a1i stand in Hai B\u00e0 Tr\u01b0ng or Ba \u0110\u00ecnh districts.\n\n\n\nWest Lake (T\u00e2y H\u1ed3). The largest lake in Hanoi, bordered by a quieter, expat-favoured district with wider streets, good caf\u00e9s and restaurants. Rent a bike and loop the lake (about 17 km). The west shore offers great sunset views. Tr\u1ea5n Qu\u1ed1c Pagoda, on a small island in the lake, is one of Vietnam\u2019s oldest temples (dating to the 6th century).\n\n\n\nLong Bi\u00ean Bridge. The old steel cantilever bridge over the Red River, built during French Indochina by the Dayd\u00e9 & Pill\u00e9 workshops (the same engineers who worked with Gustave Eiffel). Go at sunrise or sunset. The bridge is still used by motorbikes, bicycles and pedestrians, and the views of daily life along the river below are worth the detour for photographers.\n\n\n\nComplex 01. A former factory turned creative space with shops, caf\u00e9s and art exhibitions. It draws a young Hanoian crowd and offers a welcome break from the classic tourist circuit.\n\n\n\nCoffee culture. Hanoi takes its coffee very seriously. Beyond egg coffee, the city has hundreds of small caf\u00e9s hidden in alleys and at the tops of narrow stairways. Exploring them is an activity in itself. Ba \u0110\u00ecnh District and the streets around Tr\u00fac B\u1ea1ch Lake have good options.\n\n\n\nNightlife\n\n\n\nT\u1ea1 Hi\u1ec7n Street in the Old Quarter is the backpacker nightlife hub\u2014cheap beer, loud music, chaotic energy. Fun for one night.\n\n\n\nFor something more refined, Hanoi has several speakeasy-style bars: Polite and Co, The Kumquat Tree and N\u00e9 Cocktail Bar are the names most often mentioned. For techno and house, Savage and Unmute are compared to Berlin clubs. Binh Minh Jazz Club has hosted live jazz for years and is a Hanoi institution. Summit Bar at the Pan Pacific Hotel offers panoramic views of West Lake from its rooftop terrace.\n\n\n\nDay trips from Hanoi\n\n\n\nNinh B\u00ecnh. About two hours south of Hanoi by bus or limousine van. Often dubbed \u201cdry Ha Long Bay\u201d for its similar karst formations, except here they rise out of rice fields and rivers instead of the sea. The Tr\u00e0ng An boat tour is the most popular and is consistently rated higher than the Tam C\u1ed1c alternative by travellers.\n\n\n\nYou sit in a small rowboat while a local paddler navigates through caves and along soaring cliffs. Rent a motorbike or bicycle in Tam C\u1ed1c to explore the surrounding countryside.\n\n\n\nMany travellers say that Ninh B\u00ecnh was the highlight of their entire Vietnam trip. One to two days on site is ideal.\n\n\n\nHa Long Bay. The must-see. Thousands of limestone islands and islets rising from emerald water. The catch: a day trip from Hanoi involves four to five hours of driving round-trip for only three to four hours on the water. That\u2019s not enough.\n\n\n\nBook an overnight cruise (at least two days, one night) to really enjoy it. C\u00e1t B\u00e0 Island is an alternative base if you want to explore Ha Long Bay without a cruise, combining trekking, kayaking and boat trips from a less expensive home base.\n\n\n\nSapa. Mountain town in the northwest, known for its terraced rice fields and ethnic-minority villages. Getting there requires an overnight train (6\u20138 hours) or a long bus ride, so only attempt it if you have at least five total days in northern Vietnam. Winter (December to February) can be foggy and freezing. The treks draw people, as do the distinct cultures of the Hmong, Dao and T\u00e0y.\n\n\n\nThe H\u00e0 Giang Loop. Vietnam\u2019s most spectacular road, winding through mountain passes along the Chinese border. Strictly for experienced riders and requires three to four dedicated days. If you\u2019re qualified (and hold your international licence, mandatory in Vietnam), the scenery is breathtaking. If you don\u2019t ride, you can hire a local driver (\u201ceasy rider\u201d).\n\n\n\nA time-saving logistics tip: you don\u2019t always need to return to Hanoi between destinations. Direct transfers exist between Ninh B\u00ecnh and Ha Long Bay, for example. Limousine vans (minibuses with reclining seats) are comfortable, affordable and cover most routes in three to five hours. Book via your hotel or through 12Go.asia.\n\n\n\nPractical info: visa, budget and transport\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPractical details can make or break a trip to Hanoi. The complete practical tips guide covers everything in depth, but here\u2019s what you need to know before booking your flights.\n\n\n\nVisa\n\n\n\nFrench citizens benefit from a 45-day visa exemption for Vietnam (extended from 15 days in 2023). Check the current policy on the Vietnamese embassy website in Paris before you book, as these rules have changed several times in recent years.\n\n\n\nIf you need a longer stay, apply for an e-visa online (about US$25 \/ \u20ac23) before departure. At N\u1ed9i B\u00e0i Airport, immigration queues can be long for late-evening arrivals. The VIP Fast Track service (US$15\u201325 depending on provider) gets you through in minutes and is worth every cent after a 10\u201312-hour flight from Paris-CDG.\n\n\n\nHow to get there from France\n\n\n\nThere is no direct flight from Paris-CDG to Hanoi. The best options connect via Bangkok (Thai Airways, VietJet), Singapore (Singapore Airlines), Doha (Qatar Airways) or Istanbul (Turkish Airlines). Expect 10\u201314 hours total travel time depending on the stopover. Vietnam Airlines offers a Paris-Hanoi route with a layover in Ho Chi Minh City. Book two to three months ahead and return fares run \u20ac500\u2013800 in economy. Compare on Google Flights or Skyscanner.\n\n\n\nGetting around Hanoi\n\n\n\nGrab is the most important app on your phone in Vietnam. It\u2019s the local version of Uber and works for both cars and motorbikes. Use it for every ride. It eliminates rigged meters, language barriers and \u201ctourist prices.\u201d The Be app is a Vietnamese competitor that sometimes offers lower fares. Download both.\n\n\n\nFor taxis, use only Mai Linh (green) or G7 (white). These companies use honest meters. Any other taxi company is a gamble.\n\n\n\nDon\u2019t rent a motorbike unless you\u2019re an experienced rider with your international licence (mandatory in Vietnam). Hanoi traffic is not the place to learn. The traffic looks chaotic but follows its own internal logic. Locals have spent years reading that logic. You haven\u2019t.\n\n\n\nA Grab motorbike ride costs 10,000\u201330,000 VND (\u20ac0.40\u20131.15) for short trips and will get you there faster than a car during rush hour.\n\n\n\nWalking is the best way to explore the Old Quarter and the area around Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm Lake. Just accept that you\u2019ll share the roadway with motorbikes. The golden rule for crossing streets: walk slowly and steadily at a constant pace. Don\u2019t run. Don\u2019t stop. The bikes will adjust around you. If you don\u2019t dare cross, wait for a local pedestrian to step off and follow close behind.\n\n\n\nMoney\n\n\n\nVietnam uses the \u0111\u1ed3ng (VND). The numbers look huge: 100,000 VND is about \u20ac3.80. Cash is essential for street food, markets and small shops. ATMs are everywhere and dispense VND.\n\n\n\nThe catch: most charge a 20,000\u201350,000 VND (\u20ac0.75\u20131.90) fee per withdrawal. Take out larger amounts to minimise these fees. If you have a Boursorama Ultim or a Revolut card, you\u2019ll avoid foreign-exchange fees on the French bank side, but the local ATM fee is unavoidable.\n\n\n\nA warning many travellers repeat: the 500,000 VND note and the 20,000 VND note are both blue and similarly sized. In dim light or when you\u2019re tired, it\u2019s easy to hand over a 500k note thinking it\u2019s 20k. That mistake costs you about \u20ac18. Sort your bills by value and pay close attention at street stalls.\n\n\n\nWhen an ATM screen offers a currency conversion, always choose \u201cVietnamese \u0111\u1ed3ng\u201d and refuse any conversion to euros. The \u201cconvenience\u201d conversion skims 3\u20135 % in the bank\u2019s favour.\n\n\n\nDaily budget\n\n\n\n\nBudget traveller: 500,000\u2013800,000 VND\/day (\u20ac19\u201330). Hostels, street food, walking and Grab motorbikes, free temples and parks.\nMid-range: 1,500,000\u20132,500,000 VND\/day (\u20ac57\u201395). Hotels, a mix of street food and restaurants, Grab cars, museum entries, cooking class or food tour.\nComfort: 4,000,000+ VND\/day (\u20ac150+). Boutique hotels, sit-down restaurants, private excursions, cocktail bars.\n\n\n\n\nVietnam is one of the cheapest countries in Southeast Asia for travellers. A full b\u00fan ch\u1ea3 with a beer costs under 80,000 VND (\u20ac3). A one-hour traditional massage runs 200,000\u2013300,000 VND (\u20ac7.60\u201311.40). Even mid-range hotels in the Old Quarter cost 600,000\u20131,200,000 VND (\u20ac23\u201346) per night. For French visitors used to Paris prices, it\u2019s another world.\n\n\n\nScams to avoid\n\n\n\nHanoi has a few recurring scams that target tourists. They\u2019re predictable and easy to dodge once you know them.\n\n\n\nThe fruit vendor scam. A woman approaches carrying baskets on a yoke. She places the yoke on your shoulders \u201cfor a photo.\u201d The moment you touch it, she demands 200,000\u2013500,000 VND (\u20ac7.60\u201319). The fix is simple: don\u2019t touch the baskets. Say \u201cno\u201d firmly and keep walking.\n\n\n\nThe shoe-shine scam. Someone squats near your feet and starts cleaning your shoes without permission\u2014even if you\u2019re wearing sandals\u2014then demands payment. Pull your feet away and walk on.\n\n\n\nRigged taxi meters. Some taxis use modified meters that jump in big increments. That\u2019s why you use Grab for everything. If you take a taxi, insist on Mai Linh or G7.\n\n\n\nThe \u201cfree\u201d samples. Anyone offering you free fruit, doughnuts or snacks on the street is setting up a request for payment. In a tourist zone, nothing is ever free.\n\n\n\nThe big picture: Hanoi is very safe by the standards of any major city. Violent crime against tourists is extremely rare. The risks are financial (scams, overcharging) rather than physical. Keep your phone secure in traffic (snatch-and-grab thefts from motorbikes happen occasionally) and you\u2019ll be fine. More details on scams and safety in the practical tips guide.\n\n\n\nHealth\n\n\n\nNo vaccinations are mandatory to enter Vietnam, but check current recommendations with your GP or on the Institut Pasteur website before departure. Note: your European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) does not cover Vietnam. You must take out travel insurance with repatriation before leaving.\n\n\n\nInsurers like Chapka (Cap Assistance) or ACS offer policies tailored to French travellers in Asia from around \u20ac30 a month.\n\n\n\nBring or buy Berberine at any pharmacy in Hanoi: it\u2019s a plant-based medicine locals and expats swear by for stomach upsets. Air pollution in Hanoi can be significant, especially during winter months when smog sits over the city. An N95 mask deserves a spot in your suitcase. Mosquito repellent is useful year-round.\n\n\n\nCommunication and connectivity\n\n\n\nBuy a Viettel SIM at N\u1ed9i B\u00e0i Airport on arrival. It gives you 4G across the country for about 150,000\u2013200,000 VND (\u20ac5.70\u20137.60) for a tourist package. Download Google Translate with the offline Vietnamese pack and offline Google Maps before you leave. Those two apps will solve 90 % of your communication and navigation problems.\n\n\n\nWhere to stay: the neighbourhoods\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYour choice of neighbourhood will shape your Hanoi experience more than almost any other decision. Book preferably on Booking.com, where French-language reviews are numerous and often very reliable. For the full breakdown with specific hotel recommendations and price ranges, see the where to stay in Hanoi guide.\n\n\n\nOld Quarter (Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm District)\n\n\n\nThe default choice for a first visit\u2014and rightly so. You\u2019re within walking distance of Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm Lake, the weekend pedestrian zone, the best street-food stalls and the bia h\u01a1i corners. The trade-off is noise. The Old Quarter never really sleeps. Motorbike horns, karaoke and street vendors start early and finish late.\n\n\n\nIf you\u2019re a light sleeper, favour hotels tucked into quieter alleys or choose a room that doesn\u2019t face the main street. Staying near Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm Lake but slightly away from the densest part of the Old Quarter offers the best balance of accessibility and tranquillity.\n\n\n\nExpect 400,000\u20131,000,000 VND (\u20ac15\u201338) per night for a clean hotel with air-conditioning and breakfast in the Old Quarter. Boutique hotels with rooftop bars and better rooms run 1,200,000\u20133,000,000 VND (\u20ac46\u2013114).\n\n\n\nWest Lake (T\u00e2y H\u1ed3)\n\n\n\nThe expat district. Wider streets, more trees, less noise, better air quality. Good international restaurants, yoga studios and brunch caf\u00e9s. The lakefront is pleasant for morning walks or cycling.\n\n\n\nThe downside: you\u2019re 15\u201320 minutes by Grab from the Old Quarter and the main sights. For travellers who want a quieter base and don\u2019t mind using Grab to get around, T\u00e2y H\u1ed3 is excellent. It\u2019s also where many long-term visitors and digital nomads settle.\n\n\n\nFrench Quarter (Hai B\u00e0 Tr\u01b0ng and southern Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm)\n\n\n\nSouth and east of Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm Lake. Wider, tree-lined streets with colonial architecture that may remind some of France\u2019s provincial boulevards. The area around the Opera House hosts high-end hotels (Sofitel Legend Metropole is the most famous, steeped in colonial history). It\u2019s quieter than the Old Quarter, still central, with a good mix of Vietnamese and international dining. An excellent compromise between the Old Quarter\u2019s chaos and West Lake\u2019s distance.\n\n\n\nHai B\u00e0 Tr\u01b0ng District\n\n\n\nSouth of the French Quarter. Less touristy, more residential, with a growing number of caf\u00e9s and restaurants aimed at Hanoi\u2019s youth. Travellers who like to get away from tourist infrastructure appreciate this district. Prices are lower, and the area exudes what some describe as a \u201ctrendy\u201d energy. Still reachable from the Old Quarter by a short Grab ride.\n\n\n\nTr\u00fac B\u1ea1ch\n\n\n\nA neighbourhood around a small lake, halfway between the Old Quarter and West Lake. Quieter than the Old Quarter, close to some of the city\u2019s best ph\u1edf cu\u1ed1n stalls (Ng\u0169 X\u00e3 Street), and home to the John McCain monument marking where his plane was shot down. It\u2019s an underrated base that combines proximity to the centre with a more relaxed vibe.\n\n\n\nSuggested 5-to-7-day itinerary for Hanoi and northern Vietnam\n\n\n\nThis itinerary uses Hanoi as a base and groups activities geographically so you\u2019re not zig-zagging across the city. Adapt it to your interests and energy. The core principle: don\u2019t overstuff your schedule. Hanoi traffic eats time, the heat (or cold, depending on season) drains energy, and the best moments often happen when you\u2019re sitting on a plastic stool with no plan at all.\n\n\n\nDay 1: Arrival and Old Quarter orientation\n\n\n\nArrive at N\u1ed9i B\u00e0i Airport. Grab to your hotel. If you land in the afternoon, spend a few hours wandering the Old Quarter to get your bearings. In the evening, take a guided street-food tour. It\u2019s the best first activity because it teaches you how to order, what to eat and how the whole sidewalk dining system works.\n\n\n\nEnd the night with a bia h\u01a1i on T\u1ea1 Hi\u1ec7n Street to watch the surrounding chaos. If it\u2019s a weekend, head to Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm Lake for the pedestrian zone.\n\n\n\nDay 2: Sightseeing in Hanoi\n\n\n\nEarly morning: go to Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm Lake between 5:30 and 6:00 a.m. for tai chi and morning exercises. Breakfast ph\u1edf at Ph\u1edf Th\u00ecn or Ph\u1edf 10. Late morning: Temple of Literature. Late morning continued: H\u1ecfa L\u00f2 Prison. Lunch: b\u00fan ch\u1ea3 at B\u00fan Ch\u1ea3 H\u01b0\u01a1ng Li\u00ean or B\u00fan Ch\u1ea3 \u0110\u1eafc Kim. Afternoon: Vietnam Museum of Ethnology (take a Grab; it\u2019s outside the centre but worth it). Evening: egg coffee at Caf\u00e9 Gi\u1ea3ng or Caf\u00e9 \u0110inh, then roam the Old Quarter\u2019s streets at your own pace.\n\n\n\nDay 3: Day trip to Ninh B\u00ecnh\n\n\n\nTake an early-morning limousine van (book via your hotel, about 200,000\u2013300,000 VND \/ \u20ac7.60\u201311.40 one-way, two hours). Do the Tr\u00e0ng An boat circuit in the morning (about 200,000 VND \/ \u20ac7.60 entrance).\n\n\n\nIf time allows, rent a bike in Tam C\u1ed1c and ride through the rice fields in the afternoon. Return to Hanoi in the evening. If you have the luxury of time, spend a night in Ninh B\u00ecnh instead of rushing back. The extra morning cycling through the countryside at dawn is well worth rejigging your schedule.\n\n\n\nDays 4\u20135: Overnight cruise in Ha Long Bay\n\n\n\nLeave Hanoi early for Ha Long Bay (3.5\u20134 hours by bus, usually included in the cruise package). Board around noon. Afternoon: kayaking, swimming, cave visits. Night on board.\n\n\n\nMorning of Day 5: further bay exploration, then transfer back to Hanoi late afternoon.\n\n\n\nTwo-day\/one-night cruises run 2,500,000\u20136,000,000 VND (\u20ac95\u2013228) per person depending on boat quality. Mid-range options usually do the job nicely. Avoid the cheapest boats, which skimp on food and safety.\n\n\n\nDay 6: West Lake, hidden Hanoi and slow exploration\n\n\n\nThis is your decompression day after two excursion days. Morning: rent a bike and lap West Lake. Stop at Tr\u1ea5n Qu\u1ed1c Pagoda. Treat yourself to brunch in one of T\u00e2y H\u1ed3\u2019s caf\u00e9s.\n\n\n\nAfternoon: explore Tr\u00fac B\u1ea1ch (ph\u1edf cu\u1ed1n on Ng\u0169 X\u00e3 Street), walk across Long Bi\u00ean Bridge, or visit Complex 01. Evening: your choice\u2014cocktail in a hidden bar (Polite and Co, The Kumquat Tree) or live jazz at Binh Minh Jazz Club.\n\n\n\nDay 7: Last morning and departure\n\n\n\nFinal breakfast of ph\u1edf or b\u00e1nh cu\u1ed1n. Pick up your last souvenirs in the Old Quarter. If you have a late flight, visit the Vietnamese Women\u2019s Museum (near Ho\u00e0n Ki\u1ebfm) or simply spend the morning caf\u00e9-hopping. Grab to N\u1ed9i B\u00e0i Airport. Allow 45\u201360 minutes for the ride depending on traffic.\n\n\n\nItinerary tips\n\n\n\n\nIf you only have five days, drop either Ha Long Bay or Ninh B\u00ecnh. Trying to fit both into a five-day trip leaves no wiggle room. If you must choose one, most travellers recommend Ninh B\u00ecnh for a short stay (simpler logistics, less travel time) and Ha Long Bay if you can spare the extra day.\nDon\u2019t try to add Sapa to this itinerary unless you have eight days or more total. Sapa requires an overnight train each way and at least two days on site.\nBook your Ha Long Bay cruise and your Ninh B\u00ecnh transport in advance during high season (November to February). In low season, booking a day or two ahead through your hotel is plenty.\nPlan for half a day with nothing scheduled. Some of the best experiences in Hanoi happen when you wander into an alley, stumble upon a stall you weren\u2019t planning to discover, sit down and order whatever the person next to you is eating.\n\n\n\n\nHanoi vs. Bangkok: two Southeast Asian capitals compared\n\n\n\nIf you\u2019re planning a trip to Southeast Asia, you\u2019re probably weighing Hanoi against Bangkok. I\u2019ve spent time in both, and they satisfy different cravings.\n\n\n\nBangkok is larger, more modern and more outward-looking. The BTS Skytrain makes getting around easy. The food scene is broader (more regional Thai cuisines, more international options, more fine-dining restaurants).\n\n\n\nShopping ranges from street markets to luxury malls. Nightlife is bigger and more varied. English is more widely spoken. Bangkok is also your gateway to the Thai islands, Chiang Mai and the south.\n\n\n\nHanoi is smaller, grittier and more atmospheric. Its French colonial heritage gives it an architectural character Bangkok lacks, and which speaks particularly to French travellers. The food is more concentrated and specialised: fewer dishes, each perfected over generations. Hanoi is quieter at night (relatively speaking) and cheaper across the board. The coffee culture is unmatched. And Hanoi connects you to northern Vietnam\u2019s landscapes, among the most spectacular in Southeast Asia.\n\n\n\nThe honest comparison: Bangkok is easier and more comfortable. Hanoi is more intense and more rewarding if you\u2019re willing to make the effort. Bangkok is the city where you relax and eat well. Hanoi is the city that sticks with you.\n\n\n\nIf you\u2019re doing both in one trip, the usual advice is to start with Hanoi. Going from Hanoi\u2019s relative chaos to Bangkok\u2019s infrastructure feels like an upgrade. The reverse can feel like a downgrade, which unfairly skews your perception.\n\n\n\nFor the full Bangkok experience, see the complete Bangkok guide. And if a bit of beach is in the cards, Phuket and Bali are natural follow-ups.\n\n\n\nCommon mistakes to avoid\n\n\n\nThese come up regularly in traveller reports, and they\u2019re all avoidable.\n\n\n\nSpending all your time in the Old Quarter. The Old Quarter is great, but it\u2019s also the city\u2019s most chaotic, loud and tourist-saturated part. West Lake, Tr\u00fac B\u1ea1ch, the French Quarter and Hai B\u00e0 Tr\u01b0ng District all offer excellent food, quieter streets and a more local vibe. Get out of the Old Quarter for at least a full day.\n\n\n\nTrying to tick every box. Attempting to see Hanoi, Ninh B\u00ecnh, Ha Long Bay and Sapa in five days guarantees you\u2019ll enjoy none properly. Pick two and give each time. Better to spend two nights in Ninh B\u00ecnh cycling rice fields at dawn than to cram it all into four hours just to say you\u2019ve been.\n\n\n\nUnderestimating travel times. Hanoi traffic is slow. A destination that looks 3 km away on the map can take 30 minutes at rush hour. Build travel time into every activity, and don\u2019t schedule back-to-back visits in different parts of the city.\n\n\n\nSkipping a food tour on the first night. The street-food scene is intimidating when you\u2019ve never pointed at an unreadable menu, sat on a child-sized stool and eaten something you can\u2019t identify. A guided tour the first evening breaks that barrier for the rest of the trip. It\u2019s US$15\u201325 (\u20ac14\u201323) very well spent.\n\n\n\nRenting a motorbike without experience. Hanoi traffic kills people. That\u2019s not an exaggeration. If you\u2019ve never ridden a motorbike in Asian traffic, Hanoi is not the place to start. Use Grab motorbikes instead. You get the thrill of weaving through traffic without the responsibility of staying alive.\n\n\n\nMixing up your VND bills. The 500,000 and 20,000 \u0111\u1ed3ng notes look alike. Handing over the wrong one means overpaying 25-fold. Sort your bills. Stay alert.\n\n\n\nIgnoring the pollution. Hanoi\u2019s air quality can be bad, especially in winter. If you have respiratory sensitivities, bring a mask. Even without, your throat and eyes may feel it after a few days of city walking at rush hour.\n\n\n\nFighting the chaos instead of accepting it. Hanoi doesn\u2019t run on your schedule. The city has its own rhythm, and the sooner you stop trying to impose order on it, the sooner you\u2019ll start enjoying it. Sit on the plastic stool. Drink the bia h\u01a1i. Watch the motorbikes. That\u2019s the experience.\n\n\n\nHanoi is a city that rewards patience and curiosity. The first few hours may overwhelm you. By the second day you\u2019ll be crossing six-lane streets without slowing your step and ordering b\u00fan ch\u1ea3 by pointing at the grill. By the third day you\u2019ll be wondering whether you have enough time to add an extra night. Most people leave wanting more. That\u2019s the best reason to come back.","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/115312","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=115312"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/115312\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":115479,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/115312\/revisions\/115479"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/115314"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=115312"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=115312"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=115312"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}