{"id":199664,"title":"Hiyayakko, hedv\u00e1bn\u00e9 tofu po japonsku","modified":"2026-10-31T17:58:58+01:00","plain":"Autentick\u00e9 a b\u00e1je\u010dn\u011b osv\u011b\u017euj\u00edc\u00ed hiyayakko: hedv\u00e1bn\u00e9 tofu se z\u00e1zvorem a jarn\u00ed cibulkou, dochucen\u00e9 s\u00f3jovou om\u00e1\u010dkou s v\u00fdluhem z \u0159asy kombu.\n\n\n\nJe horko, chu\u0165 k j\u00eddlu se vytr\u00e1c\u00ed, a p\u0159esto oby\u010dejn\u00fd kousek vychlazen\u00e9ho tofu zmiz\u00ed b\u011bhem n\u011bkolika soust. Hiyayakko stav\u00ed na kontrastech: hedv\u00e1bn\u00e9 sv\u011b\u017eesti tofu, \u0161tiplavosti z\u00e1zvoru, k\u0159upavosti negi a tro\u0161e shoyu, kter\u00e1 v\u0161e na posledn\u00ed chv\u00edli probud\u00ed. \n\n\n\nHoblinky bonita se je\u0161t\u011b chv\u011bj\u00ed, kdy\u017e tal\u00ed\u0159 p\u0159istane na stole. \u010clov\u011bk by \u0159ekl, \u017ee je to a\u017e p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 jednoduch\u00e9, aby to bylo opravdu dobr\u00e9. Pak ale ochutn\u00e1 prvn\u00ed sousto.\n\n\n\nDal\u0161\u00ed letn\u00ed pot\u011b\u0161en\u00ed, kter\u00e9 se pod\u00e1v\u00e1 p\u011bkn\u011b vychlazen\u00e9, zaru soba\n\n\n\nCo je hiyayakko?\n\n\n\nZ\u00e1kladem pokrmu je jedin\u00e1 surovina: blok kvalitn\u00edho japonsk\u00e9ho tofu, pod\u00e1van\u00fd zastudena a t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 bez \u00faprav, na rozd\u00edl od v\u00fdrazn\u011b ochucen\u00e9ho mapo tofu. Za klasick\u00e9 se pova\u017euj\u00ed dva druhy tofu: hedv\u00e1bn\u00e9 a jemn\u00e9 kinugoshi, obl\u00edben\u00e9 v Kansai, a pevn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed momen, spojovan\u00e9 s oblast\u00ed Kant\u00f3. \n\n\n\nT\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 dv\u011b t\u0159etiny Japonc\u016f dnes pro tento pokrm up\u0159ednost\u0148uj\u00ed kinugoshi. Trocha kvalitn\u00ed om\u00e1\u010dky shoyu, p\u0159ilit\u00e1 na posledn\u00ed chv\u00edli, probud\u00ed umami s\u00f3ji a bonita, podobn\u011b jako v dob\u0159e vyv\u00e1\u017een\u00e9 pol\u00e9vce miso.\n\n\n\nPro zm\u011bnu m\u00edsto shoyu trocha dom\u00e1c\u00ed om\u00e1\u010dky ponzu na studen\u00e9 tofu\n\n\n\nN\u00e1zev se skl\u00e1d\u00e1 ze slov hiya, \u201estuden\u00fd\u201c, a yakko, ozna\u010den\u00ed slu\u017eebn\u00edk\u016f v pr\u016fvodech daimj\u00f3\u016f v obdob\u00ed Edo. Na kab\u00e1tc\u00edch hanten nosili kuginuki mon, \u010dtvercov\u00fd znak, jeho\u017e tvar p\u0159ipom\u00edn\u00e1 nakr\u00e1jen\u00e9 tofu. Odtud poch\u00e1z\u00ed v\u00fdraz yakko ni kiru, \u201ekr\u00e1jet na pravideln\u00e9 kostky o velikosti p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b 3\u00a0cm\u201c. \n\n\n\nJin\u00e1 teorie vysv\u011btluje n\u00e1zev jako hl\u00e1skovou obm\u011bnu v edsk\u00e9m n\u00e1\u0159e\u010d\u00ed, z hiyayaka na hiyayakko.\n\n\n\nTofu m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt i hork\u00e9 a p\u00e1liv\u00e9, jako v mapo tofu\n\n\n\nOd chr\u00e1m\u016f v Na\u0159e ke st\u00e1nk\u016fm v Edu\n\n\n\nTofu vzniklo v \u010c\u00edn\u011b a jeho vyn\u00e1lez se p\u0159ipisuje princi Liou Anovi z dynastie Chan ve 2.\u00a0stolet\u00ed p\u0159ed na\u0161\u00edm letopo\u010dtem. Do Japonska se dostalo p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b v obdob\u00edch Nara a Heian s buddhistick\u00fdmi mnichy, kte\u0159\u00ed se vraceli z \u010c\u00edny dynastie Tchang. V japonsk\u00fdch pramenech se objevuje v roce 1183 jako ob\u011btina ve svatyni Kasuga. \n\n\n\nDlouho bylo spjat\u00e9 s chr\u00e1mov\u00fdm prost\u0159ed\u00edm, kde slou\u017eilo jako jemn\u00fd zdroj b\u00edlkovin v shojin ryori, buddhistick\u00e9 vegetari\u00e1nsk\u00e9 kuchyni. Teprve v obdob\u00edch Kamakura a Muroma\u010di se dostalo i na stoly v\u00e1le\u010dn\u00edk\u016f.\n\n\n\nVe stejn\u00e9m jednoduch\u00e9m a rostlinn\u00e9m duchu se nese i \u0161pen\u00e1t se sezamem h\u014drens\u014d gomaae.\n\n\n\nMezi \u0161irok\u00e9 vrstvy obyvatel se tofu roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159ilo v Edu. Navzdory na\u0159\u00edzen\u00edm omezuj\u00edc\u00edm p\u0159epych vytv\u00e1\u0159el r\u016fst m\u011bsta ka\u017edodenn\u00ed popt\u00e1vku po okazu, pokrmech pod\u00e1van\u00fdch k r\u00fd\u017ei. V roce 1659 bylo na severu m\u011bsta evidov\u00e1no 5 900 povolen\u00ed k podomn\u00edmu prodeji, z nich\u017e v\u00edce ne\u017e 70 % dr\u017eely d\u011bti, star\u0161\u00ed lid\u00e9 nebo lid\u00e9 se zdravotn\u00edm posti\u017een\u00edm, kte\u0159\u00ed v ulic\u00edch prod\u00e1vali tofu a natto. Tofu tehdy bylo b\u011b\u017en\u00fdm ka\u017edodenn\u00edm dopl\u0148kem j\u00eddla, d\u00e1vno p\u0159ed specializovan\u011bj\u0161\u00edmi \u00fapravami, jako je r\u00fd\u017ee na sushi.\n\n\n\nStejn\u011b d\u016fle\u017eit\u00e1 byla i voda. Vodovody Kanda a Tamagawa z\u00e1sobovaly obecn\u00ed studny a v l\u00e9t\u011b se bloky tofu chladily v n\u00e1dr\u017e\u00edch se studni\u010dn\u00ed vodou. V roce 1782 za\u0159adila kniha Tofu Hyakuchin \u201eyakko tofu\u201c mezi tak b\u011b\u017en\u00e9 \u00fapravy, \u017ee t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 nepot\u0159ebovaly vysv\u011btlen\u00ed. Byl to m\u011bstsk\u00fd pokrm zrozen\u00fd z chladu studn\u00ed a vizu\u00e1ln\u00ed symboliky pr\u016fvod\u016f sankin-kotai.\n\n\n\nHlavn\u00ed suroviny na hiyayakko\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nC\u00edlem je zachovat chu\u0165 s\u00f3ji, na rozd\u00edl od j\u00eddel, v nich\u017e se tofu v\u00fdrazn\u011b prom\u011b\u0148uje, jako jsou k\u0159upav\u00e9 sma\u017een\u00e9 kousky tofu.\n\n\n\n\nTofu kinugoshi s nigari: hedv\u00e1bn\u00fd z\u00e1klad s vysok\u00fdm obsahem vody a sametovou konzistenc\u00ed, kter\u00e1 nech\u00e1v\u00e1 vyniknout v\u016fni z\u00e1zvoru a shoyu.\n\n\n\nTofu momen s nigari: pevn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed z\u00e1klad, kter\u00fd lze nakr\u00e1jet na kostky dr\u017e\u00edc\u00ed tvar a kter\u00fd p\u0159edstavuje tradici oblasti Kant\u00f3, na hony vzd\u00e1lenou sma\u017een\u00e9mu tofu v kitsune udon.\n\n\n\nNigari: tradi\u010dn\u00ed sr\u00e1\u017eedlo, kter\u00e9 dod\u00e1v\u00e1 jemnou miner\u00e1ln\u00ed chu\u0165 a lehkou ho\u0159kost zv\u00fdraz\u0148uj\u00edc\u00ed nasl\u00e1dlost s\u00f3ji.\n\n\n\nKvalitn\u00ed shoyu nebo jemn\u00e9 ponzu: hlavn\u00ed dochucen\u00ed. Shoyu dod\u00e1v\u00e1 glutam\u00e1t a hlubokou fermentovanou chu\u0165, ponzu zase n\u00e1dech citrus\u016f, ani\u017e by ostatn\u00ed chut\u011b p\u0159ehlu\u0161ilo. V mal\u00e9m mno\u017estv\u00ed lze pou\u017e\u00edt i mentsuyu.\n\n\n\nKatsuobushi: hoblinky su\u0161en\u00e9ho bonita, kter\u00e9 dod\u00e1vaj\u00ed inosin\u00e1t a spolu se s\u00f3jovou om\u00e1\u010dkou vytv\u00e1\u0159ej\u00ed hlubokou chu\u0165 umami, podobn\u011b jako na okonomiyaki.\n\n\n\n\u010cerstv\u00fd strouhan\u00fd z\u00e1zvor: sv\u011b\u017e\u00ed a \u0161tiplav\u00fd t\u00f3n, kter\u00fd probouz\u00ed chu\u0165 tofu.\n\n\n\nNegi\u00a0(jarn\u00ed cibulka): p\u0159\u00edbuzn\u00e1 cibule se\u010dky, jej\u00ed\u017e sv\u011b\u017e\u00ed k\u0159upavost osv\u011b\u017euje patro mezi sousty.\n\n\n\n\nZ\u00e1sady autentick\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edpravy a pod\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed\n\n\n\nAutenticita spo\u010d\u00edv\u00e1 v surovin\u011b i v zach\u00e1zen\u00ed s n\u00ed. Pro tofu pod\u00e1van\u00e9 bez dal\u0161\u00edch \u00faprav z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 m\u011b\u0159\u00edtkem nigari, zat\u00edmco s\u00e1drovec d\u00e1v\u00e1 neutr\u00e1ln\u011bj\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdsledek a kysel\u00e1 sr\u00e1\u017eedla drobivou konzistenci. \n\n\n\nTofu se kr\u00e1j\u00ed na pravideln\u00e9 kostky yakko o velikosti p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b 3\u00a0cm a pod\u00e1v\u00e1 p\u0159i teplot\u011b 16 a\u017e 18\u00a0\u00b0C, nikoli vychlazen\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edmo z lednice nebo na ledov\u00e9 t\u0159\u00ed\u0161ti. Stejn\u011b jako u zaru soba nesm\u00ed chlad potla\u010dit chu\u0165. Om\u00e1\u010dka se p\u0159id\u00e1v\u00e1 a\u017e na posledn\u00ed chv\u00edli, proto\u017ee s\u016fl v shoyu osm\u00f3zou vytahuje z tofu vodu, stejn\u011b jako u om\u00e1\u010dky ke studen\u00fdm nudl\u00edm soba.\n\n\n\nSma\u017een\u00e9 a m\u011bkk\u00e9 tofu najdete v kitsune udon\n\n\n\nKlasick\u00e9 verze se obejdou bez p\u0159\u00edsad a zp\u016fsob\u016f pod\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed, kter\u00e9 potla\u010duj\u00ed chu\u0165 s\u00f3ji: sezamov\u00e9ho oleje, kim\u010di, om\u00e1\u010dek na b\u00e1zi majon\u00e9zy \u010di serv\u00edrov\u00e1n\u00ed na ledu. Zachovalo se n\u011bkolik region\u00e1ln\u00edch obm\u011bn, nap\u0159\u00edklad s karashi v I\u0161ikaw\u011b. \n\n\n\nTato st\u0159\u00eddmost sbli\u017euje hiyayakko s dal\u0161\u00edmi minimalistick\u00fdmi japonsk\u00fdmi pokrmy, od tamago kake gohan po onsen tamago, na rozd\u00edl od vydatn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch j\u00eddel, jako jsou chanko nabe nebo japonsk\u00e9 kari.\n\n\n\n\n\n\tAutentick\u00e9 hiyayakko - Hedv\u00e1bn\u00e9 tofu po japonsku\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t4 porce tofu (ka\u017ed\u00e1 po 150 g)10 g z\u00e1zvoru20 g jarn\u00ed cibulky3 g vlo\u010dek su\u0161en\u00e9ho bonita80 ml japonsk\u00e9 s\u00f3jov\u00e9 om\u00e1\u010dky (typu Kikkoman; p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b sv\u011btl\u00e9 s\u00f3jov\u00e9 om\u00e1\u010dky)1 g \u0159asy kombu\t\n\t\n\t\tOt\u0159ete povrch \u0159asy kombu pap\u00edrovou ut\u011brkou, abyste odstranili ne\u010distoty.Dejte s\u00f3jovou om\u00e1\u010dku a \u0159asu kombu do n\u00e1doby na uchov\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed potravin.Vlo\u017ete do lednice a nechte odle\u017eet p\u0159es noc.Z\u00e1zvor omyjte, oloupejte a nastrouhejte.Jarn\u00ed cibulku omyjte, nechte okapat a nasekejte najemno.Rozlo\u017ete tofu do misek.Navrch dejte nastrouhan\u00fd z\u00e1zvor a nasekanou jarn\u00ed cibulku.P\u0159elijte p\u0159edem p\u0159ipravenou s\u00f3jovou om\u00e1\u010dkou s \u0159asou kombu.Posypte vlo\u010dkami su\u0161en\u00e9ho bonita.Pod\u00e1vejte.\t\n\t\n\t\t\nS\u00f3jov\u00e1 om\u00e1\u010dka s \u0159asou kombu z\u00edsk\u00e1 po noci v lednici hlub\u0161\u00ed chu\u0165.\nPod\u00e1vejte dob\u0159e vychlazen\u00e9, s velmi studen\u00fdm tofu pro autenti\u010dt\u011bj\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdsledek.\n\n\t\n\t\n\t\tPlat principalJaponaise","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/199664","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=199664"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/199664\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/147171"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=199664"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=199664"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=199664"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}