{"id":199176,"title":"\u0160pan\u011blsk\u00e1 tortilla s bramborami","modified":"2026-10-31T17:51:12+01:00","plain":"Galicijsk\u00e1 tortilla z Betanzosu: brambory, vejce, olivov\u00fd olej a s\u016fl, bez cibule, se z\u00e1m\u011brn\u011b tekut\u00fdm st\u0159edem.\n\n\n\nN\u016f\u017e pro\u0159\u00edzne sv\u011btle zlat\u00fd povrch a odhal\u00ed st\u0159ed: leskl\u00e1 sm\u011bs von\u00edc\u00ed po olivov\u00e9m oleji se rozlije po tal\u00ed\u0159i je\u0161t\u011b p\u0159ed prvn\u00edm soustem. V galicijsk\u00e9m Betanzosu se od tortilly o\u010dek\u00e1v\u00e1 p\u0159esn\u011b tohle. \n\n\n\n\u017d\u00e1dn\u00e1 cibule, \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 dal\u0161\u00ed p\u0159\u00edsady, nic, co by odv\u00e1d\u011blo pozornost od brambor, vajec, oleje a soli. P\u016fsob\u00ed jako prost\u00e9 venkovsk\u00e9 j\u00eddlo, dokud se v\u00e1m v \u00fastech nerozplyne, vla\u017en\u00e1 a t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 kr\u00e9mov\u00e1. V tu chv\u00edli pochop\u00edte, pro\u010d je na ni m\u011bsto tak hrd\u00e9.\n\n\n\nNa stejn\u00e9m stole nikdy nezbudou ani patatas bravas\n\n\n\nCo je tortilla z Betanzosu?\n\n\n\nVe \u0160pan\u011blsku ozna\u010duje tortilla espa\u00f1ola bramborovou omeletu, st\u00e1lici bar\u016f, dom\u00e1c\u00edch kuchyn\u00ed i st\u00e1nk\u016f na trz\u00edch. \n\n\n\nVe stejn\u00fdch \u0161pan\u011blsk\u00fdch barech v l\u00e9t\u011b p\u0159ijde vhod ledov\u00e9 osv\u011b\u017een\u00ed: andalusk\u00e9 gazpacho\n\n\n\nN\u00e1zev Betanzos tuto definici zp\u0159es\u0148uje: m\u011bsto v provincii A Coru\u00f1a proslavilo galicijskou variantu zalo\u017eenou na \u010dty\u0159ech surovin\u00e1ch, brambor\u00e1ch, vejc\u00edch, extra panensk\u00e9m olivov\u00e9m oleji a soli. Nic dal\u0161\u00edho do n\u00ed nepat\u0159\u00ed, a u\u017e v\u016fbec ne cibule.\n\n\n\nRozd\u00edl spo\u010d\u00edv\u00e1 v dovednosti, nikoli v mno\u017estv\u00ed p\u0159\u00edsad. Brambory nikdy nejsou k\u0159upav\u00e9: nejprve se vlo\u017e\u00ed do velmi hork\u00e9ho oleje a pak se pozvolna va\u0159\u00ed na m\u00edrn\u00e9m ohni, tak\u017ee z\u016fstanou sv\u011btl\u00e9 a m\u011bkk\u00e9. \n\n\n\nNa stejn\u00e9m pultu najdete i brambory pod\u00e1van\u00e9 zastudena: ensaladilla rusa\n\n\n\nVejce se prom\u00edchaj\u00ed jen natolik, aby se \u017eloutky spojily s b\u00edlky, ne\u0161lehaj\u00ed se do p\u011bny. P\u0159i pe\u010den\u00ed povrch jen lehce zpevn\u00ed a st\u0159ed z\u016fstane tekut\u00fd, \u010demu\u017e znalci \u0159\u00edkaj\u00ed melosa.\n\n\n\nJin\u00fd p\u0159\u00edstup k omelet\u011b, tentokr\u00e1t rolovan\u00e9 a sladkoslan\u00e9: tamagoyaki\n\n\n\nZ Extremadury roku 1798 a\u017e na pulty v Betanzosu\n\n\n\nSe \u0161pan\u011blskou tortillou se dlouho pojila vojensk\u00e1 legenda o karlistick\u00fdch v\u00e1lk\u00e1ch a hladov\u011bj\u00edc\u00edch voj\u00e1c\u00edch v 19. stolet\u00ed. Historick\u00e9 v\u00fdzkumy v\u0161ak jednu z nejstar\u0161\u00edch zn\u00e1m\u00fdch zm\u00ednek nach\u00e1zej\u00ed v dokumentu z 27. \u00fanora 1798 z m\u011bsta Villanueva de la Serena v Extremadu\u0159e. Tehdy se hledal v\u00fd\u017eivn\u00fd a levn\u00fd pokrm, kter\u00fd by pomohl p\u0159eklenout obdob\u00ed nedostatku.\n\n\n\nBrambory poch\u00e1zej\u00edc\u00ed z And si ve \u0161pan\u011blsk\u00e9m j\u00eddeln\u00ed\u010dku st\u00e1le jen obt\u00ed\u017en\u011b hledaly m\u00edsto. Ve spojen\u00ed s m\u00edstn\u00edm olejem a vejci v\u0161ak daly vzniknout vydatn\u00e9mu, dostupn\u00e9mu a syt\u00e9mu j\u00eddlu. Tortilla se pot\u00e9 roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159ila po cel\u00e9 zemi a z\u00edskala r\u016fzn\u00e9 podoby podle regionu, rodinn\u00fdch zvyklost\u00ed i obl\u00edben\u00e9ho stupn\u011b prope\u010den\u00ed.\n\n\n\nCelon\u00e1rodn\u00ed spor ale p\u0159etrv\u00e1v\u00e1: s cibul\u00ed, nebo bez n\u00ed. Podle pr\u016fzkumu CIS ze srpna\u00a02023 d\u00e1v\u00e1 cibuli p\u0159ednost p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b sedm z deseti \u0160pan\u011bl\u016f, Betanzos se v\u0161ak rozhodl opa\u010dn\u011b a m\u00edstn\u00ed sout\u011b\u017ee ji zakazuj\u00ed.\n\n\n\nV Thajsku m\u00e1 b\u00fdt omeleta nad\u00fdchan\u00e1 a k\u0159upav\u00e1: kai jeow\n\n\n\nHlavn\u00ed suroviny na tortillu z Betanzosu\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPr\u00e1v\u011b proto, \u017ee je surovin m\u00e1lo, z\u00e1le\u017e\u00ed na p\u0159esnosti: \u010dty\u0159i st\u0159edn\u011b velk\u00e9 brambory, p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b 350 g, p\u011bt velk\u00fdch vajec, zhruba 275 g, 250 ml extra panensk\u00e9ho olivov\u00e9ho oleje a s\u016fl. Brambory, ide\u00e1ln\u011b galicijsk\u00e9 odr\u016fdy Kennebec s pevnou du\u017einou, tvo\u0159\u00ed vl\u00e1\u010dn\u00fd z\u00e1klad. Kr\u00e1jej\u00ed se no\u017eem na tenk\u00e9 pl\u00e1tky, bez mandol\u00edny \u010di kuchy\u0148sk\u00e9ho robotu, a pozvolna se va\u0159\u00ed v oleji, ani\u017e by zhn\u011bdly.\n\n\n\nDal\u0161\u00ed zp\u016fsob p\u0159\u00edpravy brambor, tentokr\u00e1t obalen\u00fdch a sma\u017een\u00fdch: korokke\n\n\n\nVejce mus\u00ed b\u00fdt velmi \u010derstv\u00e1 a sta\u010d\u00ed je n\u011bkolikr\u00e1t prom\u00edchat vidli\u010dkou. P\u0159\u00edli\u0161n\u00fdm \u0161leh\u00e1n\u00edm se do nich dostane vzduch a tortilla se nafoukne, m\u00edsto aby z\u016fstala \u0161\u0165avnat\u00e1. V\u00fdrazn\u011b zbarven\u00e9 \u017eloutky dodaj\u00ed st\u0159edu syt\u011bj\u0161\u00ed barvu i pln\u011bj\u0161\u00ed chu\u0165.\n\n\n\nStejn\u00fd olivov\u00fd olej, tentokr\u00e1t vy\u0161lehan\u00fd do emulze: ajoblanco malague\u00f1o\n\n\n\nExtra panensk\u00fd olivov\u00fd olej slou\u017e\u00ed k pozvoln\u00e9mu va\u0159en\u00ed, dod\u00e1v\u00e1 chu\u0165 a pom\u00e1h\u00e1 regulovat teplotu; po scezen\u00ed brambor sta\u010d\u00ed p\u00e1nev pot\u0159\u00edt jen tenkou vrstvou. S\u016fl se p\u0159id\u00e1v\u00e1 nadvakr\u00e1t, nejprve do vajec a pot\u00e9 po jejich sm\u00edch\u00e1n\u00ed s bramborami, aby byla tortilla rovnom\u011brn\u011b ochucen\u00e1 a\u017e do st\u0159edu.\n\n\n\n\n\n\tPrav\u00e1 \u0161pan\u011blsk\u00e1 tortilla\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t4 st\u0159edn\u011b velk\u00e9 brambory (celkem p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b 350 g)5 velk\u00fdch vajec (celkem p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b 275 g)250 ml extra panensk\u00e9ho olivov\u00e9ho olejes\u016fl\t\n\t\n\t\tP\u0159\u00edprava bramborBrambory oloupejte, omyjte a osu\u0161te.Nakr\u00e1jejte je no\u017eem na mal\u00e9 tenk\u00e9 kousky (bez mandol\u00edny \u010di kuchy\u0148sk\u00e9ho robotu), abyste m\u011bli pod kontrolou jejich velikost a tlou\u0161\u0165ku.Tepeln\u00e1 \u00faprava bramborV p\u00e1nvi rozeh\u0159ejte olej. Jakmile se z n\u011bj za\u010dne kou\u0159it, p\u0159idejte v\u0161echny brambory najednou a sni\u017ete plamen na st\u0159edn\u00ed.Brambory pomalu po\u0161\u00edrujte a ob\u010das prom\u00edchejte, aby se kousky neslepily k sob\u011b ani nep\u0159ichytily ke dnu: maj\u00ed zm\u011bknout, ale nesm\u011bj\u00ed zhn\u011bdnout.P\u0159\u00edprava vajecMezit\u00edm rozklepn\u011bte vejce do velk\u00e9 m\u00edsy a jen lehce prom\u00edchejte, abyste poru\u0161ili \u017eloutky, ale vejce ne\u0161lehejte ani do nich neza\u0161leh\u00e1vejte vzduch. Osolte a odlo\u017ete stranou.Spojen\u00ed sm\u011bsiHotov\u00e9 brambory p\u0159endejte do cedn\u00edku a nechte 2 minuty okapat p\u0159ebyte\u010dn\u00fd olej, aby mezit\u00edm trochu zchladly.P\u0159idejte brambory k vejc\u00edm, znovu osolte, prom\u00edchejte a nechte n\u011bkolik minut odpo\u010dinout, aby se sm\u011bs propojila.Op\u00e9k\u00e1n\u00ed tortillyRozeh\u0159ejte p\u00e1nev o pr\u016fm\u011bru 22 cm. Jakmile je hork\u00e1, vyma\u017ete ji trochou olivov\u00e9ho oleje a vlijte sm\u011bs. Ztlumte plamen a nechte spodn\u00ed stranu zpevnit 1 minutu (ne d\u00e9le).Pomoc\u00ed tal\u00ed\u0159e tortillu obra\u0165te. P\u00e1nev znovu vyma\u017ete olejem a rozeh\u0159ejte na siln\u00e9m plameni. Jakmile se z n\u00ed za\u010dne kou\u0159it, nechte do n\u00ed tortillu sklouznout. Ztlumte plamen a nechte druhou stranu zpevnit 1 minutu.P\u0159endejte na serv\u00edrovac\u00ed tal\u00ed\u0159 a p\u0159ed kr\u00e1jen\u00edm a pod\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00edm nechte n\u011bkolik minut odpo\u010dinout.\t\n\t\n\t\tTortilla de Betanzos je galicijsk\u00e1 verze bramborov\u00e9 tortilly: bez cibule, pouze z brambor, vajec, olivov\u00e9ho oleje a soli. Uvnit\u0159 z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 z\u00e1m\u011brn\u011b jen lehce zpevn\u011bn\u00e1, velmi tekut\u00e1, a pr\u00e1v\u011b to je pro ni typick\u00e9.\nVejce pouze prom\u00edchejte, ne\u0161lehejte je: p\u0159\u00edli\u0161n\u00fdm \u0161leh\u00e1n\u00edm se do nich dostane vzduch a tortilla se nafoukne, m\u00edsto aby z\u016fstala \u0161\u0165avnat\u00e1. Stejn\u011b tak je t\u0159eba brambory zvolna po\u0161\u00edrovat v oleji, aby z\u016fstaly sv\u011btl\u00e9; jakmile za\u010dnou hn\u011bdnout, ztvrdnou a st\u0159ed u\u017e nebude tekut\u00fd.\nN\u011bkolik minut odpo\u010dinku mimo plotnu pom\u016f\u017ee st\u0159edu zpevnit: tortilla z\u016fstane \u0161\u0165avnat\u00e1, ale bude se l\u00e9pe kr\u00e1jet. Pod\u00e1vejte se sal\u00e1tem z mlad\u00fdch l\u00edstk\u016f nebo s ochucen\u00fdm raj\u010detem.\n\t\n\t\n\t\tPlat principalEspagnole","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/199176","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=199176"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/199176\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/162995"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=199176"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=199176"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=199176"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}