{"id":199080,"title":"Tonyu nabe, japonsk\u00fd hrnec se s\u00f3jov\u00fdm ml\u00e9kem","modified":"2026-10-31T17:50:14+01:00","plain":"H\u0159ejiv\u00e9 japonsk\u00e9 nabe s v\u00fdvarem shirodashi a s\u00f3jov\u00fdm ml\u00e9kem, dopln\u011bn\u00e9 ku\u0159ec\u00edm masem, tofu, zeleninou a houbami, tvo\u0159\u00ed jemn\u00e9 a plnohodnotn\u00e9 j\u00eddlo.\n\n\n\nVenku je po\u0161mourno a na stole z hrnce donabe stoup\u00e1 nad b\u00edl\u00fdm v\u00fdvarem jemn\u00e1 p\u00e1ra. Neslazen\u00e9 s\u00f3jov\u00e9 ml\u00e9ko, b\u00edl\u00e9 miso a dashi mu dod\u00e1vaj\u00ed lehkou, zakulacenou chu\u0165, kter\u00e1 nep\u016fsob\u00ed t\u011b\u017ece. \n\n\n\nKu\u0159ec\u00ed maso, tofu, aburaage a zelenina se v n\u011bm pomalu va\u0159\u00ed na m\u00edrn\u00e9m ohni, zat\u00edmco si ka\u017ed\u00fd nab\u00edr\u00e1 p\u0159\u00edmo z hrnce. V\u0161echno stoj\u00ed na jedin\u00e9m jednoduch\u00e9m pravidle: v\u00fdvar nesm\u00ed nikdy v\u0159\u00edt. \n\n\n\nM\u00e1te chu\u0165 na dal\u0161\u00ed j\u00eddlo ze spole\u010dn\u00e9ho hrnce? Vyzkou\u0161ejte chanko nabe z\u00e1pasn\u00edk\u016f sum\u00f3.\n\n\n\nCo je t\u014dny\u016b nabe?\n\n\n\n\u201eT\u014dny\u016b\u201c znamen\u00e1 s\u00f3jov\u00e9 ml\u00e9ko a \u201enabe\u201c ozna\u010duje hrnec. Pokrm pat\u0159\u00ed do rodiny nabemono, japonsk\u00fdch j\u00eddel pod\u00e1van\u00fdch ve spole\u010dn\u00e9m hrnci uprost\u0159ed stolu. \n\n\n\nJeho z\u00e1klad nen\u00ed \u010dir\u00fd ani slan\u00fd jako klasick\u00fd v\u00fdvar: je sv\u011btl\u00fd a kr\u00e9mov\u00fd, p\u0159ipraven\u00fd z dashi s \u0159asou kombu a bonitem, b\u00edl\u00e9ho misa a neslazen\u00e9ho s\u00f3jov\u00e9ho ml\u00e9ka. Vkl\u00e1daj\u00ed se do n\u011bj tenk\u00e9 pl\u00e1tky vep\u0159ov\u00e9ho nebo ku\u0159ec\u00edho masa, tsukune, tofu, aburaage, pekingsk\u00e9 zel\u00ed a houby.\n\n\n\nRozhoduj\u00edc\u00ed je konzistence. S\u00f3jov\u00e9 ml\u00e9ko se p\u0159id\u00e1v\u00e1 a\u017e ke konci a zah\u0159\u00edv\u00e1 se zvolna, p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b na 63 \u00b0C, aby z\u016fstalo hladk\u00e9 a nesrazilo se. Jakmile se v\u0161echny suroviny sn\u011bd\u00ed, p\u0159ijdou na z\u00e1v\u011br udon nebo r\u00fd\u017ee, kter\u00e9 nas\u00e1knou v\u00fdvar pln\u00fd chuti hub, misa a tuku z masa.\n\n\n\nVe stejn\u00e9m duchu spole\u010dn\u00e9ho stolov\u00e1n\u00ed se p\u0159\u00edmo na stole pomalu va\u0159\u00ed tak\u00e9 sukiyaki.\n\n\n\nVyn\u00e1lez z Tokia z roku 1991\n\n\n\nA\u010dkoli t\u014dny\u016b nabe p\u016fsob\u00ed tradi\u010dn\u011b, jde o pom\u011brn\u011b nov\u00fd pokrm. Jeho nejl\u00e9pe dolo\u017een\u00fd p\u016fvod sah\u00e1 do roku 1991, do restaurace kapp\u014d Zantei Irori v tokijsk\u00e9 \u010dtvrti Nishi-Shinbashi. \u0160\u00e9fkucha\u0159 Matsuda zde vytvo\u0159il pokrm v hrnci se s\u00f3jov\u00fdm ml\u00e9kem v dob\u011b, kdy bylo st\u00e1le vn\u00edm\u00e1no jako n\u00e1poj s rostlinnou a sv\u00edravou chut\u00ed. \n\n\n\nJeho receptura: stejn\u00e9 d\u00edly dashi a syrov\u00e9ho, doma lisovan\u00e9ho s\u00f3jov\u00e9ho ml\u00e9ka, ochucen\u00e9 b\u00edl\u00fdm misem a dopln\u011bn\u00e9 jemn\u00fdmi surovinami. N\u011bkter\u00e1 vypr\u00e1v\u011bn\u00ed zmi\u0148uj\u00ed i kamoniku, kachn\u00ed maso, kter\u00e9 pos\u00edl\u00ed chu\u0165 dashi, ani\u017e by p\u0159ehlu\u0161ilo v\u00fdvar.\n\n\n\nPokrm se proslavil po n\u011bkolika zm\u00ednk\u00e1ch v \u010dasopisech o \u017eivotn\u00edm stylu, v\u010detn\u011b \u010dasopisu Hanako, a postupn\u011b se z restaura\u010dn\u00ed zaj\u00edmavosti stal obl\u00edben\u00fdm sezonn\u00edm j\u00eddlem. Jin\u00e9 zdroje spojuj\u00ed jeho p\u016fvod s restaurac\u00ed Terakoya v Kj\u00f3tu, m\u011bst\u011b s dlouhou tradic\u00ed tofu, yud\u014dfu a yuby, ov\u0161em bez tak jasn\u00e9ho data \u010di p\u016fvodn\u00edho receptu jako u Zantei Irori.\n\n\n\nMy\u0161lenka jemn\u00e9ho ml\u00e9\u010dn\u00e9ho pokrmu z jednoho hrnce je v\u0161ak star\u0161\u00ed. U\u017e p\u0159i p\u0159\u00edprav\u011b Asuka nabe v oblasti Nary mezi lety 592 a 710 se ku\u0159ec\u00ed maso a zelenina pomalu va\u0159ily ve v\u00fdvaru z ml\u00e9ka a dashi; Yamato nabe na tuto my\u0161lenku navazuje a ml\u00e9ko nahrazuje s\u00f3jov\u00fdm. Od po\u010d\u00e1tku 21. stolet\u00ed pronik\u00e1 t\u014dny\u016b nabe do dom\u00e1cnost\u00ed d\u00edky pov\u011bsti s\u00f3ji jako zdrav\u00e9 potraviny: v\u00fdroba s\u00f3jov\u00e9ho ml\u00e9ka dosahuje v roce 2015 objemu 303 000 kilolitr\u016f a hotov\u00e9 v\u00fdvary, nap\u0159\u00edklad od zna\u010dky Mizkan (2005), pom\u00e1haj\u00ed roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159it sezamovou variantu.\n\n\n\nHlavn\u00ed suroviny na t\u014dny\u016b nabe\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nZ\u00e1kladem v\u00fdvaru je dashi z kombu a katsuobushi, kter\u00e9 dod\u00e1v\u00e1 hlubokou chu\u0165 umami, aby s\u00f3jov\u00e9 ml\u00e9ko nep\u016fsobilo mdle. Shiro miso p\u0159in\u00e1\u0161\u00ed jemnost, sv\u011btlou barvu a plnost, s kulat\u011bj\u0161\u00ed chut\u00ed ne\u017e \u010derven\u00e9 miso. Trocha sak\u00e9, mirinu a usukuchi sh\u014dyu v\u0161e dochut\u00ed, ani\u017e by z\u00e1klad ztmavl. Srdcem pokrmu z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 neslazen\u00e9 s\u00f3jov\u00e9 ml\u00e9ko (mu-ch\u014dsei t\u014dny\u016b), vyroben\u00e9 ze s\u00f3ji a vody: slazen\u00fdm \u010di ochucen\u00fdm variant\u00e1m se vyhn\u011bte.\n\n\n\nTenk\u00e9 pl\u00e1tky vep\u0159ov\u00e9ho nebo kousky ku\u0159ec\u00edho masa se rychle uva\u0159\u00ed a obohat\u00ed v\u00fdvar, \u010dasto je dopl\u0148uj\u00ed tsukune, masov\u00e9 kuli\u010dky, kter\u00e9 do sebe nas\u00e1vaj\u00ed tekutinu. St\u0159edn\u011b pevn\u00e9 tofu a aburaage vst\u0159eb\u00e1vaj\u00ed v\u00fdvar a p\u0159i ka\u017ed\u00e9m soustu uvol\u0148uj\u00ed svou chu\u0165, p\u0159idat m\u016f\u017eete i b\u00edlou rybu, nap\u0159\u00edklad tresku, kter\u00e1 ostatn\u00ed suroviny nep\u0159ehlu\u0161\u00ed. Mlet\u00fd sezam nebo sezamov\u00e1 pasta mohou dodat bohatou o\u0159\u00ed\u0161kovou chu\u0165 typickou pro goma-t\u014dny\u016b.\n\n\n\nAburaage najdete tak\u00e9 v kitsune udon.\n\n\n\nZelenina zachov\u00e1v\u00e1 kontrasty: pekingsk\u00e9 zel\u00ed z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 v siln\u00fdch \u017eebrech k\u0159upav\u00e9, zat\u00edmco listy kr\u00e1sn\u011b zm\u011bknou, a negi, shungiku, mrkev a daikon kontrastuj\u00ed s jemnost\u00ed v\u00fdvaru. Shiitake, shimeji a enoki p\u0159in\u00e1\u0161ej\u00ed lesn\u00ed t\u00f3ny a rozmanitou konzistenci. Na z\u00e1v\u011br udon nebo trocha r\u00fd\u017ee prom\u011bn\u00ed zbytek v hrnci v jemn\u00e9 z\u014dsui.\n\n\n\nTajemstv\u00ed hladk\u00e9ho v\u00fdvaru\n\n\n\nSkute\u010dnou v\u00fdzvou je sr\u00e1\u017een\u00ed. S\u00f3jov\u00e9 ml\u00e9ko je emulze vody, tuku a b\u00edlkovin; p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 vysok\u00e1 teplota nebo kysel\u00e1 surovina zp\u016fsob\u00ed sra\u017een\u00ed b\u00edlkovin, stejn\u011b jako p\u0159i v\u00fdrob\u011b tofu, a v\u00fdvar z\u00edsk\u00e1 zrnitou konzistenci. \n\n\n\nZabr\u00e1n\u00edte tomu t\u0159emi kroky: s\u00f3jov\u00e9 ml\u00e9ko p\u0159idejte a\u017e po uva\u0159en\u00ed masa a pevn\u00e9 zeleniny, po jeho p\u0159ilit\u00ed udr\u017eujte velmi m\u00edrn\u00fd ohe\u0148 (p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b pod 63\u00a0\u00b0C, hladina se m\u00e1 jen lehce chv\u011bt) a nem\u00edchejte p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 prudce.\n\n\n\nPokud si chcete jemnou chu\u0165 misa dop\u0159\u00e1t rychleji, vyzkou\u0161ejte tak\u00e9 pol\u00e9vku miso.\n\n\n\nNeslazen\u00e9 a neochucen\u00e9 s\u00f3jov\u00e9 ml\u00e9ko dod\u00e1 tu spr\u00e1vnou chu\u0165; slazen\u00e9 nebo vanilkov\u00e9 varianty naru\u0161\u00ed jej\u00ed rovnov\u00e1hu. Vyhn\u011bte se raj\u010dat\u016fm a dal\u0161\u00edm kysel\u00fdm surovin\u00e1m i hov\u011bz\u00edmu masu, kter\u00e9 je pro tento jemn\u00fd z\u00e1klad p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 v\u00fdrazn\u00e9. Nab\u00edzej\u00ed se ale poveden\u00e9 obm\u011bny, kter\u00e9 zachov\u00e1vaj\u00ed charakter pokrmu: dashi z kombu a shiitake pro veganskou verzi nebo sezam pro plnou chu\u0165 goma-t\u014dny\u016b.\n\n\n\n\n\n\tT\u014dny\u016b nabe - japonsk\u00fd hrnec se s\u00f3jov\u00fdm ml\u00e9kem\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\tP\u0159\u00edsady do v\u00fdvaru1 horn\u00ed ku\u0159ec\u00ed stehno (nakr\u00e1jen\u00e9 na sousta)0.5 bloku tofu (nakr\u00e1jen\u00e9 na sousta)2 pl\u00e1tky aburaage (sma\u017een\u00e9ho tofu) (nakr\u00e1jen\u00e9 na sousta)3 cm mrkve (nakr\u00e1jen\u00e9 na tenk\u00e9 nudli\u010dky)1 vani\u010dka hub maitake (rozd\u011blen\u00fdch na mal\u00e9 trsy (voliteln\u00e9))1 vani\u010dka hub shimeji (rozd\u011blen\u00fdch na mal\u00e9 trsy)3 listy pekingsk\u00e9ho zel\u00ed (nakr\u00e1jen\u00e9 nahrubo)0.25 svazku mizuny (nakr\u00e1jen\u00e9 nahrubo (voliteln\u00e9))1 japonsk\u00fd p\u00f3rek (nakr\u00e1jen\u00fd \u0161ikmo na tenk\u00e9 pl\u00e1tky)2 l\u017e\u00edce sezamov\u00fdch sem\u00ednek (mlet\u00fdch)V\u00fdvar400 ml vody3 l\u017e\u00edce b\u00edl\u00e9ho dashi (shirodashi, koncentrovan\u00e9ho)S\u00f3jov\u00e9 ml\u00e9ko400 ml neslazen\u00e9ho s\u00f3jov\u00e9ho ml\u00e9ka1 l\u017e\u00edce b\u00edl\u00e9ho misa (vrchovat\u00e1)\t\n\t\n\t\tPostupP\u0159ive\u010fte vodu s b\u00edl\u00fdm dashi k varu.P\u0159idejte ku\u0159ec\u00ed maso, tofu, aburaage, mrkev a houby.Znovu p\u0159ive\u010fte k varu.St\u00e1hn\u011bte na st\u0159edn\u00ed plamen a nechte m\u00edrn\u011b va\u0159it 3 a\u017e 5 minut.Jakmile je ku\u0159ec\u00ed maso uva\u0159en\u00e9, rozm\u00edchejte b\u00edl\u00e9 miso v neslazen\u00e9m s\u00f3jov\u00e9m ml\u00e9ce a sm\u011bs p\u0159ilijte do hrnce.Jakmile se objev\u00ed prvn\u00ed bublinky, p\u0159idejte pekingsk\u00e9 zel\u00ed, mizunu, japonsk\u00fd p\u00f3rek a mlet\u00fd sezam.Udr\u017eujte t\u011bsn\u011b pod bodem varu, aby se tvo\u0159ily jen drobn\u00e9 bublinky, a nenechte rozva\u0159it.Jezte pr\u016fb\u011b\u017en\u011b podle toho, jak se jednotliv\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edsady dova\u0159\u00ed.\t\n\t\n\t\t\nS\u00f3jov\u00e9 ml\u00e9ko se p\u0159id\u00e1v\u00e1 ke konci va\u0159en\u00ed a nikdy nesm\u00ed v\u0159\u00edt: jakmile se za\u010dne va\u0159it prud\u010deji ne\u017e jen s drobn\u00fdmi bublinkami, sraz\u00ed se a v\u00fdvar se odd\u011bl\u00ed.\nPo p\u0159ilit\u00ed s\u00f3jov\u00e9ho ml\u00e9ka udr\u017eujte m\u00edrn\u00fd plamen.\nPou\u017eijte neslazen\u00e9 s\u00f3jov\u00e9 ml\u00e9ko (\u7121\u8abf\u6574\u8c46\u4e73), nikoli slazen\u00fd nebo ochucen\u00fd s\u00f3jov\u00fd n\u00e1poj.\nB\u00edl\u00e9 dashi (shirodashi) je velmi koncentrovan\u00e9: mno\u017estv\u00ed upravte podle pokyn\u016f v\u00fdrobce.\n\n\t\n\t\n\t\tPlat principalJaponaise","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/199080","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=199080"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/199080\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/170056"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=199080"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=199080"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=199080"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}