{"id":198656,"title":"Mizutaki, japonsk\u00e9 ku\u0159ec\u00ed fondue","modified":"2026-10-31T17:42:11+01:00","plain":"Ku\u0159ec\u00ed fondue z Hakaty: v\u00fdvar p\u0159ipraven\u00fd z \u010dist\u00e9 vody, zelenina vkl\u00e1dan\u00e1 do hrnce p\u0159\u00edmo u stolu a ponzu s daidai k nam\u00e1\u010den\u00ed.\n\n\n\nVenku je zima, doprost\u0159ed stolu p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed hrnec a u\u017e z n\u011bj stoup\u00e1 p\u00e1ra. Nejprve se pod\u00e1v\u00e1 mal\u00fd \u0161\u00e1lek samotn\u00e9ho v\u00fdvaru, jen lehce osolen\u00e9ho, v n\u011bm\u017e vynik\u00e1 pln\u00e1, koncentrovan\u00e1 chu\u0165 ku\u0159ete, kterou nic nezakr\u00fdv\u00e1. \n\n\n\nPak p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed jedno za druh\u00fdm: kousky masa rozpl\u00fdvaj\u00edc\u00ed se na jazyku, st\u00e1le k\u0159upav\u00e9 zel\u00ed, tofu nas\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed kolagen a ponzu s daidai, kter\u00e9 v ka\u017ed\u00e9m soustu vyva\u017euje tu\u010dnost. \n\n\n\nNa za\u010d\u00e1tku byla jen voda a ku\u0159e. Je to nejjednodu\u0161\u0161\u00ed j\u00eddlo z jednoho hrnce na japonsk\u00e9m stole a z\u00e1rove\u0148 jedno z t\u011bch, na kter\u00e1 se nejh\u016f\u0159 zapom\u00edn\u00e1.\n\n\n\nVe stejn\u00e9m duchu spole\u010dn\u00e9ho stolov\u00e1n\u00ed u jednoho hrnce se nese i chanko nabe\n\n\n\nCo je mizutaki?\n\n\n\nMizutaki znamen\u00e1 \u201eva\u0159en\u00e9 ve vod\u011b\u201c. Mizu ozna\u010duje vodu, taki va\u0159en\u00ed. V\u00fdvar se p\u0159ipravuje z \u010dist\u00e9 vody, bez dashi, bez buj\u00f3nov\u00e9 kostky a bez jak\u00e9hokoli po\u010d\u00e1te\u010dn\u00edho dochucen\u00ed. \n\n\n\nVe\u0161kerou chu\u0165 dod\u00e1v\u00e1 ku\u0159e s kost\u00ed: k\u016f\u017ee, kolagen a morek. V Hakat\u011b ve Fukuoce se p\u0159id\u00e1vaj\u00ed sousta z vykost\u011bn\u00fdch stehen, kuli\u010dky tsukune, hl\u00e1vkov\u00e9 zel\u00ed, cibule negi, houby a tofu. Dochucuje se a\u017e u stolu, \u0161petkou soli do prvn\u00edho \u0161\u00e1lku a pot\u00e9 om\u00e1\u010dkou ponzu k nam\u00e1\u010den\u00ed.\n\n\n\nV Hakat\u011b vedle sebe existuj\u00ed dva druhy v\u00fdvaru. \u010cir\u00fd, jantarov\u011b zbarven\u00fd kohaku se udr\u017euje p\u0159i teplot\u011b kolem 90 a\u017e 95\u00a0\u00b0C a pravideln\u011b se z n\u011bj sb\u00edr\u00e1 p\u011bna. B\u00edl\u00fd, ml\u00e9\u010dn\u011b zbarven\u00fd paitan vznik\u00e1 prudk\u00fdm varem trvaj\u00edc\u00edm p\u011bt a\u017e deset hodin, p\u0159i kter\u00e9m se tuk a kolagen emulguj\u00ed. \n\n\n\nOb\u011b varianty jsou stejn\u011b autentick\u00e9. Nabe z oblasti Kansai se naproti tomu louhuje s \u0159asou kombu a pekingsk\u00e9 zel\u00ed, kter\u00e9 obsahuje p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 mnoho vody, do hakatsk\u00e9 verze nepat\u0159\u00ed.\n\n\n\nKu\u0159ec\u00ed kuli\u010dky neboli tsukune se hod\u00ed stejn\u011b dob\u0159e do hrnce jako na \u0161p\u00edzy\n\n\n\nZrod v Hakat\u011b roku 1905, mezi Hongkongem a Nagasaki\n\n\n\nHeisabur\u014d Hayashida, rod\u00e1k z Nagasaki, odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed v roce 1897 v patn\u00e1cti letech do Hongkongu. Setk\u00e1v\u00e1 se tam se dv\u011bma kuchyn\u011bmi: \u010dir\u00fdmi v\u00fdvary inspirovan\u00fdmi britskou tradic\u00ed a \u010d\u00ednsk\u00fdmi pol\u00e9vkami z ku\u0159ete s kost\u00ed, kter\u00e9 se dlouho va\u0159\u00ed na m\u00edrn\u00e9m ohni. Po n\u00e1vratu do Japonska otev\u00edr\u00e1 v roce 1905 v Hakat\u011b, ve \u010dtvrti Susaki, restauraci Suigetsu. Jeho j\u00eddlo se nejprve jmenuje \u201eHakata-ni\u201c, pozd\u011bji mizutaki.\n\n\n\nP\u016fvodn\u00ed verze m\u00e1 \u010dir\u00fd v\u00fdvar: m\u00edrn\u00fd oh\u0159ev, pe\u010dliv\u011b sb\u00edran\u00e1 p\u011bna, jantarov\u00fd odst\u00edn a koncentrovan\u00e9 umami. V polovin\u011b dvac\u00e1t\u00e9ho stolet\u00ed prosazuj\u00ed podniky jako Shinmiura, zalo\u017een\u00e1 v roce 1910, b\u00edlou verzi, kter\u00e1 je m\u00e9n\u011b pr\u016fhledn\u00e1 a m\u00e1 pln\u011bj\u0161\u00ed chu\u0165. Dnes se ve Fukuoce pod\u00e1vaj\u00ed oba styly vedle sebe.\n\n\n\nNem\u00e1te po ruce daidai? Dom\u00e1c\u00ed om\u00e1\u010dka ponzu s yuzu nebo citrony poslou\u017e\u00ed stejn\u011b dob\u0159e\n\n\n\nStejn\u00fd krajov\u00fd p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh vypr\u00e1v\u00ed i ponzu. V n\u011bkter\u00fdch podnic\u00edch se daidai z Itoshimy, skl\u00edzen\u00e9 v prosinci a lednu, lisuje ru\u010dn\u011b, aby se do \u0161\u0165\u00e1vy nedostal ho\u0159k\u00fd olej ze slupky. \u0160\u0165\u00e1va pak zraje a\u017e rok, ne\u017e se sm\u00edch\u00e1 se s\u00f3jovou om\u00e1\u010dkou. Fukuoka, oded\u00e1vna orientovan\u00e1 na obchod s pevninou, ud\u011blala z tohoto ku\u0159ec\u00edho j\u00eddla z jednoho hrnce jednu ze sv\u00fdch typick\u00fdch specialit.\n\n\n\nHlavn\u00ed suroviny na mizutaki\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nZ\u00e1kladem v\u00fdvaru je ku\u0159e s kost\u00ed. Stehna a k\u0159\u00eddla dod\u00e1vaj\u00ed umami, tuk a kolagen, d\u00edky kter\u00e9mu je v\u00fdvar sametov\u00fd. Kousky vykost\u011bn\u00fdch stehen p\u0159id\u00e1van\u00e9 b\u011bhem j\u00eddla z\u016fst\u00e1vaj\u00ed k\u0159ehk\u00e9 a znovu posiluj\u00ed masovou chu\u0165. Kuli\u010dky tsukune obohacuj\u00ed obsah hrnce o ku\u0159ec\u00ed \u0161\u0165\u00e1vu a z\u00e1rove\u0148 nas\u00e1vaj\u00ed to, co u\u017e v n\u011bm je. Studen\u00e1 filtrovan\u00e1 voda z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 chu\u0165ov\u011b neutr\u00e1ln\u00ed, aby nic nezakr\u00fdvala.\n\n\n\nHl\u00e1vkov\u00e9 zel\u00ed neboli kyabetsu si uchov\u00e1v\u00e1 k\u0159upavost a zemitou nasl\u00e1dlost, ani\u017e by \u0159edilo v\u00fdvar, zat\u00edmco pekingsk\u00e9 zel\u00ed by pustilo p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 mnoho vody. Cibule negi, kterou lze nahradit jarn\u00ed cibulkou, dod\u00e1v\u00e1 cibulov\u00fd t\u00f3n, ani\u017e by p\u0159evl\u00e1dala. \n\n\n\nHouby shiitake, enoki a shimeji p\u0159id\u00e1vaj\u00ed umami a rozmanit\u00e9 textury od hedv\u00e1bn\u00e9 po vl\u00e1knitou. Pevn\u00e9 nebo polotuh\u00e9 tofu momen nas\u00e1v\u00e1 v\u00fdvar bohat\u00fd na kolagen a celek zjem\u0148uje.\n\n\n\nDal\u0161\u00ed nabe s \u010dir\u00fdm v\u00fdvarem, tentokr\u00e1t s rybou a \u00fast\u0159icemi: mizore nabe\n\n\n\nK dochucen\u00ed sta\u010d\u00ed t\u0159i v\u011bci: \u0161petka mo\u0159sk\u00e9 soli do prvn\u00edho \u0161\u00e1lku, ponzu s daidai, kter\u00e9 vyva\u017euje tu\u010dnost a nech\u00e1v\u00e1 vyniknout ku\u0159e, a trocha yuzu kosho pro citrusovou pikantnost. \n\n\n\nNa z\u00e1v\u011br se zb\u00fdvaj\u00edc\u00ed v\u00fdvar prom\u011bn\u00ed v zosui s va\u0159enou r\u00fd\u017e\u00ed a roz\u0161lehan\u00fdm vejcem vm\u00edchan\u00fdm po odstaven\u00ed z ohn\u011b. M\u016f\u017eete do n\u011bj tak\u00e9 p\u0159idat udon nebo nudle champon. \u0160krob nasaje tekutinu a ku\u0159ec\u00ed chu\u0165 v\u00e1s tak prov\u00e1z\u00ed a\u017e do posledn\u00edho sousta.\n\n\n\nZbyly v\u00e1m nudle udon? Bukkake udon jim d\u00e1 \u00fapln\u011b jin\u00fd r\u00e1z\n\n\n\nZnaky autentick\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edpravy a chyby, kter\u00fdm se vyhnout\n\n\n\nT\u0159i znaky jsou neklamn\u00e9: v\u00fdvar zalo\u017een\u00fd pouze na vod\u011b, pe\u010dliv\u00e9 sb\u00edr\u00e1n\u00ed p\u011bny a hl\u00e1vkov\u00e9 zel\u00ed m\u00edsto pekingsk\u00e9ho. \n\n\n\n\u010cir\u00e1 verze se udr\u017euje mezi 90 a 95\u00a0\u00b0C, b\u00edl\u00e1 vy\u017eaduje dlouh\u00fd a prudk\u00fd var. \u0160ed\u00e1 nebo zakalen\u00e1 tekutina prozrazuje zanedban\u00e9 sb\u00edr\u00e1n\u00ed p\u011bny, mdl\u00fd v\u00fdvar zase p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 libov\u00e9 ku\u0159e nebo p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 kr\u00e1tk\u00e9 va\u0159en\u00ed. \n\n\n\nJako v\u017edy u ku\u0159ete dbejte na vnit\u0159n\u00ed teplotu 74\u00a0\u00b0C, m\u011b\u0159enou teplom\u011brem zap\u00edchnut\u00fdm do nejsiln\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u010d\u00e1sti masa.\n\n\n\n\n\n\tMizutaki - japonsk\u00e9 ku\u0159ec\u00ed fondue\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\tV\u00fdvar a ku\u0159e500 g ku\u0159ec\u00edch stehen s kost\u00ed (nakr\u00e1jen\u00fdch na kousky)6 ku\u0159ec\u00edch k\u0159\u00eddel2 L vodyFondue1 p\u00f3rek (nakr\u00e1jen\u00fd \u0161ikmo na tenk\u00e9 pl\u00e1tky)1\/2 hl\u00e1vky zel\u00ed (nakr\u00e1jen\u00e9 na velk\u00e9 kusy)1 svazek shungiku (list\u016f chryzant\u00e9my) (voliteln\u00e9)4 houby shiitake1 balen\u00ed hub enoki1 blok tofukuzukiri (nebo nudle harusame, podle pot\u0159eby)K pod\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00edponzu (k nam\u00e1\u010den\u00ed)s\u016fl (podle chuti)yakumi (podle chuti: yuzu-kosh\u014d, nakr\u00e1jen\u00e1 jarn\u00ed cibulka)Na z\u00e1v\u011br (zosui)va\u0159en\u00e1 r\u00fd\u017ee (vychladl\u00e1)1 vejce (roz\u0161lehan\u00e9)jarn\u00ed cibulka (nakr\u00e1jen\u00e1, na dokon\u010den\u00ed)trocha ponzu\t\n\t\n\t\tV\u00fdvarStehna a k\u0159\u00eddla blan\u0161\u00edrujte ve vrouc\u00ed vod\u011b asi 30 sekund, abyste odstranili p\u011bnu a ne\u017e\u00e1douc\u00ed pach.Ihned p\u0159endejte do studen\u00e9 vody a opl\u00e1chn\u011bte krev a ne\u010distoty.Vodu, ku\u0159ec\u00ed stehna a k\u0159\u00eddla dejte do velk\u00e9ho hrnce a zah\u0159\u00edvejte na vysok\u00e9m plameni.Jakmile voda za\u010dne v\u0159\u00edt, st\u00e1hn\u011bte plamen, aby v\u00fdvar jen m\u00edrn\u011b probubl\u00e1val, seberte p\u011bnu a va\u0159te 2 a\u017e 3 hodiny, dokud v\u00fdvar nez\u00edsk\u00e1 ml\u00e9\u010dn\u011b b\u00edlou barvu.Ob\u010das dolijte trochu vody, aby hladina z\u016fstala stejn\u00e1.P\u0159\u00edprava fondueKu\u0159e i s v\u00fdvarem p\u0159endejte do serv\u00edrovac\u00edho rendl\u00edku (nebo nechte ve stejn\u00e9m hrnci) a znovu zah\u0159ejte.P\u0159id\u00e1vejte zeleninu podle doby va\u0159en\u00ed (zel\u00ed, p\u00f3rek, shiitake, enoki, tofu a nakonec shungiku) a zvolna va\u0159te dom\u011bkka.Podle chuti p\u0159idejte kuzukiri nebo harusame.Ku\u0159e jezte samotn\u00e9 nebo nam\u00e1\u010den\u00e9 v ponzu a dochucen\u00e9 yuzu-kosh\u014d (nebo jin\u00fdm yakumi).Zosui (na z\u00e1v\u011br)Do zbyl\u00e9ho v\u00fdvaru p\u0159idejte uva\u0159enou a vychladlou r\u00fd\u017ei a proh\u0159ejte.Dochu\u0165te trochou soli, vm\u00edchejte roz\u0161lehan\u00e9 vejce a nakr\u00e1jenou jarn\u00ed cibulku a nakonec zak\u00e1pn\u011bte ponzu.\t\n\t\n\t\t\nBlan\u0161\u00edrov\u00e1n\u00ed, opl\u00e1chnut\u00ed a n\u00e1sledn\u00e9 dlouh\u00e9 pozvoln\u00e9 va\u0159en\u00ed (2 a\u017e 3 h) ku\u0159ete s kost\u00ed dod\u00e1vaj\u00ed mizutaki z Hakaty ml\u00e9\u010dn\u011b b\u00edl\u00fd v\u00fdvar bohat\u00fd na kolagen (ml\u00e9\u010dn\u011b zakalen\u00fd v\u00fdvar).\nTradi\u010dn\u00ed po\u0159ad\u00ed konzumace: nejprve ochutnejte ku\u0159ec\u00ed v\u00fdvar (s trochou soli a cibulkou negi), pak jezte ku\u0159e a zeleninu s ponzu nebo yuzu-kosh\u014d a zakon\u010dete zosui.\n\n\t\n\t\n\t\tPlat principalJaponaise","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/198656","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=198656"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/198656\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/170025"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=198656"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=198656"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=198656"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}