{"id":198449,"title":"Oroshi soba s nastrouhanou \u0159edkv\u00ed","modified":"2026-10-31T17:39:15+01:00","plain":"Studen\u00e9 pohankov\u00e9 nudle z Fukui pod kope\u010dkem po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b \u0161tiplav\u00e9ho strouhan\u00e9ho daikonu, zalit\u00e9 om\u00e1\u010dkou tsuyu z v\u00fdvaru dashi s kombu a bonitem.\n\n\n\nJe dusno, j\u00eddlo mus\u00ed b\u00fdt rychle na stole a miska studen\u00fdch nudl\u00ed to vy\u0159e\u0161\u00ed za p\u00e1r minut. Oroshi soba jdou p\u0159\u00edmo k v\u011bci: pevn\u00e9 pohankov\u00e9 nudle soba, z\u00e1plava strouhan\u00e9ho daikonu a studen\u00e9 tsuyu, kter\u00fdm se nudle zalij\u00ed a\u017e u stolu.\n\n\n\n\u0158edkev n\u00e1hle za\u0161t\u00edpe, kr\u00e1tce, t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 peprn\u011b, pak jej\u00ed ostrost ustoup\u00ed a nech\u00e1 vyniknout obiln\u00e9 chuti nudl\u00ed. Hoblinky bonita se p\u0159i p\u0159inesen\u00ed misky je\u0161t\u011b pohybuj\u00ed. Ve Fukui se takto jed\u00ed po cel\u00fd rok, i kdy\u017e krajinu pokr\u00fdv\u00e1 sn\u00edh, a nikdo k nim nep\u0159id\u00e1v\u00e1 wasabi.\n\n\n\nStejn\u00e9 nudle, tentokr\u00e1t k nam\u00e1\u010den\u00ed: zaru soba\n\n\n\nCo jsou oroshi soba?\n\n\n\nOroshi soba jsou miska pohankov\u00fdch nudl\u00ed pod\u00e1van\u00fdch zastudena, pokryt\u00fdch strouhan\u00fdm daikonem a zalit\u00fdch koncentrovan\u00fdm tsuyu na b\u00e1zi dashi z kombu a su\u0161en\u00fdch ryb, ochucen\u00fdm s\u00f3jovou om\u00e1\u010dkou, mirinem a trochou cukru. \n\n\n\nNavrch pat\u0159\u00ed jen dv\u011b v\u011bci: katsuobushi a tenk\u00e1 kole\u010dka jarn\u00ed cibulky. Nudle z Fukui jsou tmav\u00e9 a kropenat\u00e9, vyroben\u00e9 z celozrnn\u00e9 mouky hikigurumi, kter\u00e1 jim dod\u00e1v\u00e1 v\u00fdrazn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed obiln\u00e9 aroma ne\u017e sv\u011btl\u00fdm soba ve stylu Edo, pod\u00e1van\u00fdm jako zaru soba. P\u0159i strouh\u00e1n\u00ed daikon uvol\u0148uje isothiokyan\u00e1ty, kter\u00e9 zp\u016fsobuj\u00ed v\u00fdraznou, ale kr\u00e1tkou \u0161tiplavost, bli\u017e\u0161\u00ed k\u0159enu ne\u017e chilli.\n\n\n\n\u201eOroshi\u201c znamen\u00e1 \u201estrouhan\u00fd\u201c, odtud kope\u010dek \u0159edkve, kter\u00fd je pro tuto misku ur\u010duj\u00edc\u00ed. \u201eEchizen\u201c odkazuje na n\u011bkdej\u0161\u00ed provincii, z n\u00ed\u017e se stala prefektura Fukui, a konkr\u00e9tn\u011bji na Fuchu, dne\u0161n\u00ed m\u011bsto Echizen, kde pokrm z\u00edskal svou sou\u010dasnou podobu.\n\n\n\nJako p\u0159edkrm, kdy\u017e je na va\u0159en\u00ed p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 horko: hiyayakko\n\n\n\nOd pohanky pro p\u0159e\u017eit\u00ed k c\u00edsa\u0159ov\u011b misce\n\n\n\nPohanka se do Fukui dostala jako z\u00e1lo\u017en\u00ed plodina. Mezi lety 1471 a 1473 podporoval vojev\u016fdce Asakura Takakage jej\u00ed p\u011bstov\u00e1n\u00ed v okol\u00ed Ichijodani: dozr\u00e1v\u00e1 za 75 dn\u00ed, roste i na chud\u00fdch p\u016fd\u00e1ch a u\u017eiv\u00ed obyvatele, kdy\u017e nen\u00ed dost r\u00fd\u017ee. Tehdy se z n\u00ed je\u0161t\u011b nekr\u00e1jely nudle. Jedla se v podob\u011b sobagaki, hutn\u00e9ho hn\u011bten\u00e9ho t\u011bsta, nebo kuli\u010dek.\n\n\n\nZlom p\u0159i\u0161el v roce 1601, kdy se Honda Tomimasa stal p\u00e1nem Fuchu. Z Fushimi pobl\u00ed\u017e Kj\u00f3ta povolal mistra v\u00fdroby soba, Kaneka Gonzaemona, kter\u00fd zavedl sobakiri: t\u011bsto rozv\u00e1len\u00e9 a n\u00e1sledn\u011b nakr\u00e1jen\u00e9 na tenk\u00e9 nudli\u010dky. \n\n\n\nM\u00edstn\u00ed vypr\u00e1v\u011bn\u00ed \u0159\u00edk\u00e1, \u017ee hradn\u00ed l\u00e9ka\u0159 doporu\u010dil p\u0159id\u00e1vat strouhanou \u0159edkev, o n\u00ed\u017e se tehdy v\u011b\u0159ilo, \u017ee pom\u00e1h\u00e1 tr\u00e1vit \u0161krobnat\u00e9 potraviny. Tato kombinace p\u0159etrvala z prost\u0161\u00edho d\u016fvodu: studen\u00e1 pohanka, \u0161tiplav\u00e1 \u0159edkev a v\u00fdvar s \u010distou chut\u00ed se k sob\u011b zkr\u00e1tka hod\u00ed.\n\n\n\nDal\u0161\u00ed studen\u00e1 miska, kter\u00e1 zachr\u00e1n\u00ed letn\u00ed ob\u011bdy, hiyashi chuka\n\n\n\nSou\u010dasn\u00fd n\u00e1zev poch\u00e1z\u00ed z roku 1947. P\u0159i \u0159\u00edjnov\u00e9 n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bv\u011b Fukui si c\u00edsa\u0159 \u0160\u00f3wa \u00fadajn\u011b vy\u017e\u00e1dal dal\u0161\u00ed misku a pot\u00e9 v Tokiu mluvil o \u201et\u011bch opravdu lahodn\u00fdch soba z Echizenu\u201c. \n\n\n\nRegion toto ozna\u010den\u00ed p\u0159evzal a ofici\u00e1ln\u011b zavedl n\u00e1zev \u201eEchizen Oroshi Soba\u201c. V prefektu\u0159e, kde vydatn\u011b sn\u011b\u017e\u00ed, se tato miska pod\u00e1v\u00e1 studen\u00e1 i v zim\u011b, na setk\u00e1n\u00edch, chr\u00e1mov\u00fdch slavnostech i u rodinn\u00e9ho stolu, jako v\u00fdraz m\u00edstn\u00edch chut\u00ed v japonsk\u00e9 kuchyni.\n\n\n\nKdy\u017e sn\u011b\u017e\u00ed, strouhan\u00fd daikon putuje do hrnce: mizore nabe\n\n\n\nHlavn\u00ed suroviny na oroshi soba\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nV\u0161echno za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 nudlemi. Hikigurumi je celozrnn\u00e1 mouka, kter\u00e1 \u010dasto obsahuje i \u010dern\u00e9 slupky zrn a mele se pomalu na kamenn\u00e9m ml\u00fdn\u011b, aby si zachovala aroma. Nejlep\u0161\u00ed poch\u00e1z\u00ed ze zairaishu, star\u00fdch odr\u016fd z Fukui, kter\u00e9 d\u00e1vaj\u00ed men\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdnosy ne\u017e modern\u00ed kultivary, ale jsou mnohem aromati\u010dt\u011bj\u0161\u00ed. V\u00fdsledn\u00e9 nudle jsou tmav\u00e9, na okraj\u00edch trochu drsn\u00e9 a i zastudena si zachov\u00e1vaj\u00ed pevnou pru\u017enost koshi, kterou u soba hled\u00e1me.\n\n\n\nDaikon dod\u00e1v\u00e1 \u0161tiplavost, neslou\u017e\u00ed jako ozdoba. Ide\u00e1ln\u00ed je karami daikon, mal\u00e1 a hutn\u00e1 \u0159edkev. Pokud ji nese\u017eenete, vezm\u011bte posledn\u00ed \u010dty\u0159i a\u017e p\u011bt centimetr\u016f \u0161pi\u010dky b\u011b\u017en\u00e9ho daikonu Aokubi a neloupejte ji: pr\u00e1v\u011b tam je nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed koncentrace \u0161tiplav\u00fdch l\u00e1tek. Najemno nastrouhan\u00e1 \u0159edkev tak\u00e9 pust\u00ed hodn\u011b \u0161\u0165\u00e1vy, kter\u00e1 v\u00fdvar na\u0159ed\u00ed a odleh\u010d\u00ed.\n\n\n\nTsuyu mus\u00ed b\u00fdt v\u00fdrazn\u00e9, aby toto na\u0159ed\u011bn\u00ed ust\u00e1lo. Kombu tvo\u0159\u00ed miner\u00e1ln\u00ed z\u00e1klad dashi, hoblinky bonita, makrely nebo sardinky dod\u00e1vaj\u00ed kou\u0159ov\u00e9 a mo\u0159sk\u00e9 t\u00f3ny. \n\n\n\nS\u00f3jov\u00e1 om\u00e1\u010dka, mirin a trocha cukru tvo\u0159\u00ed kaeshi, pot\u00e9 se v\u00fdvar vychlad\u00ed. Na z\u00e1v\u011br jarn\u00ed cibulka celou misku o\u017eiv\u00ed a katsuobushi je\u0161t\u011b podtrhne chu\u0165 umami v\u00fdvaru.\n\n\n\nA co z\u016fstat u studen\u00e9ho a d\u00e1t si jako dezert kakigori?\n\n\n\nZnaky autenticity a chyby, kter\u00fdm se vyhnout\n\n\n\nDobrou misku pozn\u00e1te podle n\u011bkolika v\u011bc\u00ed: tmav\u00fdch kropenat\u00fdch nudl\u00ed, opravdu \u0161tiplav\u00e9 \u0159edkve a v\u00fdvaru dostate\u010dn\u011b koncentrovan\u00e9ho, aby ani po na\u0159ed\u011bn\u00ed neztratil chu\u0165. \n\n\n\nB\u011b\u017en\u00fd zp\u016fsob pod\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed je bukkake, kdy se tsuyu nal\u00e9v\u00e1 p\u0159\u00edmo na studen\u00e9 nudle u stolu, ale n\u011bkter\u00e9 podniky m\u00edchaj\u00ed \u0159edkev do v\u00fdvaru a jin\u00e9 pou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00ed jen vyma\u010dkanou \u0161\u0165\u00e1vu, shiborijiru. Do stylu Fukui nepat\u0159\u00ed wasabi, p\u0159em\u00edra mlet\u00e9ho chilli, tempura, syrov\u00e9 vejce ani p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 propracovan\u00e9 oblo\u017een\u00ed. Tady jde o kontrast, ne o zdoben\u00ed.\n\n\n\n\n\n\tAutentick\u00e9 oroshi soba\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t4 porce nudl\u00ed soba400 g daikonu (japonsk\u00e9 b\u00edl\u00e9 \u0159edkve) (k nastrouh\u00e1n\u00ed)650 ml dashi1.5 l\u017e\u00edce sak\u00e91.5 l\u017e\u00edce mirinu3 l\u017e\u00edce sv\u011btl\u00e9 s\u00f3jov\u00e9 om\u00e1\u010dky (zarovnan\u00e9)20 g jarn\u00ed cibulky (cibule se\u010dky) (nakr\u00e1jen\u00e9 najemno)8 g katsuobushishichimi (sm\u011bs 7 druh\u016f ko\u0159en\u00ed) nebo chilli (podle chuti, voliteln\u00e9)\t\n\t\n\t\tV\u00fdvarP\u0159ive\u010fte dashi k varu.P\u0159idejte sak\u00e9, s\u00f3jovou om\u00e1\u010dku a mirin a nechte znovu p\u0159ej\u00edt varem.Nudle a daikonNastrouhejte daikon (najemno pro v\u00fdrazn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u0161tiplavost).Uva\u0159te nudle soba ve velk\u00e9m mno\u017estv\u00ed vrouc\u00ed vody.Nudle sce\u010fte.Nudle propl\u00e1chn\u011bte studenou vodou a p\u0159itom je promn\u011bte, abyste odstranili \u0161krob.Nechte d\u016fkladn\u011b okapat.Serv\u00edrov\u00e1n\u00edVlo\u017ete nudle do misky.P\u0159elijte v\u00fdvarem a p\u0159idejte nastrouhan\u00fd daikon.Ozdobte jarn\u00ed cibulkou a katsuobushi.Posypte shichimi nebo chilli (voliteln\u00e9).T\u0159i zp\u016fsoby pod\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed (podle v\u00fdb\u011bru)Vm\u00edchejte nastrouhan\u00fd daikon do v\u00fdvaru a pot\u00e9 j\u00edm p\u0159elijte nudle.Nastrouhan\u00fd daikon a v\u00fdvar pod\u00e1vejte zvl\u00e1\u0161\u0165.Vyma\u010dkejte \u0161\u0165\u00e1vu z nastrouhan\u00e9ho daikonu do v\u00fdvaru a pot\u00e9 j\u00edm p\u0159elijte nudle.\t\n\t\n\t\t\nPro v\u00fdrazn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u0161tiplavost nastrouhejte daikon velmi najemno, pro jemn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed chu\u0165 nahrubo.\nPo propl\u00e1chnut\u00ed nechte nudle soba d\u016fkladn\u011b okapat, aby se v\u00fdvar nez\u0159edil.\nIntenzitu chuti v\u00fdvaru upravte mno\u017estv\u00edm sv\u011btl\u00e9 s\u00f3jov\u00e9 om\u00e1\u010dky a shichimi p\u0159idejte a\u017e na posledn\u00ed chv\u00edli.\n\n\t\n\t\n\t\tPlat principalJaponaise","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/198449","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=198449"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/198449\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/162204"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=198449"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=198449"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=198449"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}