{"id":198447,"title":"Matsutake suimono neboli japonsk\u00e1 houbov\u00e1 pol\u00e9vka","modified":"2026-10-31T17:39:13+01:00","plain":"\u010cir\u00e1 japonsk\u00e1 podzimn\u00ed pol\u00e9vka, pr\u016fzra\u010dn\u00e9 dashi provon\u011bn\u00e9 houbou matsutake.\n\n\n\nZ p\u0159ikryt\u00e9 lakovan\u00e9 misky stoup\u00e1 p\u00e1ra a nese s sebou cel\u00fd podzim: borov\u00e9 jehli\u010d\u00ed, h\u0159ejiv\u00e9 ko\u0159en\u00ed, vlhkou zem. Pod pokli\u010dkou z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 v\u00fdvar pr\u016fzra\u010dn\u00fd, jen lehce zlatav\u00fd. \n\n\n\nVe stejn\u011b jemn\u00e9m duchu tvo\u0159\u00ed dashi i z\u00e1klad chawanmushi, lahodn\u011b jemn\u00e9ho slan\u00e9ho vaje\u010dn\u00e9ho kr\u00e9mu\n\n\n\nJedin\u00e1 houba sta\u010d\u00ed k provon\u011bn\u00ed cel\u00e9 pol\u00e9vky. Sta\u010d\u00ed zvednout pokli\u010dku a v\u016fn\u011b se okam\u017eit\u011b rozvine, je\u0161t\u011b p\u0159ed prvn\u00edm dou\u0161kem. V t\u00e9to misce se v\u0161e to\u010d\u00ed kolem prchav\u00e9 v\u016fn\u011b, kterou je t\u0159eba zachytit v\u010das.\n\n\n\nCo je suimono?\n\n\n\nSuimono pat\u0159\u00ed k washoku, samotn\u00e9mu srdci japonsk\u00e9 kuchyn\u011b. Je to \u010dir\u00e1 pol\u00e9vka, kter\u00e1 osv\u011b\u017euje chu\u0165ov\u00e9 bu\u0148ky, na rozd\u00edl od vydatn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch shiru a pol\u00e9vek miso. \n\n\n\nU\u017e n\u00e1zev \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 v\u0161e: suimono znamen\u00e1 \u201eto, co se usrk\u00e1v\u00e1\u201c. Z\u00e1kladem je ichiban dashi, prvn\u00ed v\u00fdluh z kombu a katsuobushi. Kombu uvol\u0148uje glutam\u00e1t, hoblinky bonita inosin\u00e1t: spole\u010dn\u011b zesiluj\u00ed umami mnohem v\u00edc, ne\u017e by to dok\u00e1zala ka\u017ed\u00e1 surovina zvl\u00e1\u0161\u0165.\n\n\n\nDochucen\u00ed z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 st\u0159\u00eddm\u00e9. Usukuchi shoyu osol\u00ed v\u00fdvar, ani\u017e by ho ztmavilo, trocha jemn\u00e9 soli dolad\u00ed chu\u0165, japonsk\u00e9 sak\u00e9 j\u00ed dod\u00e1 hloubku a kapka mirinu ji zakulat\u00ed. \n\n\n\nDal\u0161\u00ed lekce japonsk\u00e9 st\u0159\u00eddmosti: hiyayakko, jednodu\u0161e p\u0159ipraven\u00e9, dob\u0159e vychlazen\u00e9 tofu\n\n\n\nTmav\u00e1 s\u00f3jov\u00e1 om\u00e1\u010dka sem nepat\u0159\u00ed: v\u00fdvar by ztmavila. Matsutake se va\u0159\u00ed jen dv\u011b a\u017e t\u0159i minuty p\u0159i sotva znateln\u00e9m probubl\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed, aby neztratilo svou v\u016fni. Na z\u00e1v\u011br dod\u00e1 mitsuba sv\u011b\u017e\u00ed bylinn\u00fd t\u00f3n a k\u016fra z yuzu nebo sudachi citrusov\u00fd n\u00e1dech.\n\n\n\nStejn\u00e9 \u010dir\u00e9 dashi, pod\u00e1van\u00e9 zastudena: okra no ohitashi\n\n\n\nTis\u00edc let sl\u00e1vy podzimn\u00ed lah\u016fdky\n\n\n\nMatsutake se v Japonsku t\u011b\u0161\u00ed pov\u011bsti vz\u00e1cn\u00e9 podzimn\u00ed lah\u016fdky u\u017e v\u00edce ne\u017e tis\u00edc let. Jeho v\u016fn\u011b se objevuje ji\u017e ve sb\u00edrce Man’y\u014dsh\u016b z 8. stolet\u00ed, v n\u00ed\u017e horsk\u00e9 houby ohla\u0161uj\u00ed podzim. Pro svou vz\u00e1cnost a obt\u00ed\u017en\u00fd sb\u011br si brzy na\u0161lo m\u00edsto na \u0161lechtick\u00fdch stolech a prchavost jeho v\u016fn\u011b mu dod\u00e1vala je\u0161t\u011b v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed cenu.\n\n\n\nU\u017e v obdob\u00ed Edo se v\u00fdvar, v n\u011bm\u017e se pod\u00e1valo, p\u0159ipravoval podle ur\u010dit\u00fdch pravidel. Kniha Ry\u014dri Amime Ch\u014dmish\u014d, vydan\u00e1 v roce 1730, rozli\u0161ovala suimono od syt\u011bj\u0161\u00edch shiru a kladla d\u016fraz na \u010distou, vyv\u00e1\u017eenou pol\u00e9vku postavenou na dashi. \n\n\n\nPro dal\u0161\u00ed podzimn\u00ed t\u00f3ny pod\u00e1vejte vedle misky r\u00fd\u017ei s bat\u00e1ty\n\n\n\nV kaiseki tato \u010dir\u00e1 pol\u00e9vka doprov\u00e1z\u00ed sak\u00e9 a nech\u00e1v\u00e1 vyniknout shun, okam\u017eik, kdy je sez\u00f3nn\u00ed surovina v nejlep\u0161\u00ed kondici. Vypr\u00e1v\u00ed se o matsutake p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017een\u00fdch v nos\u00edtk\u00e1ch, aby se uchovala jejich v\u016fn\u011b, i o tom, jak po nich tou\u017eil Tojotomi Hidejo\u0161i. V\u0161echny p\u0159\u00edb\u011bhy p\u0159in\u00e1\u0161ej\u00ed stejn\u00e9 ponau\u010den\u00ed: v\u016fn\u011b m\u00e1 p\u0159ednost, v\u0161e ostatn\u00ed ustupuje do pozad\u00ed.\n\n\n\nHlavn\u00ed suroviny na matsutake suimono\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nV\u0161e za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 u dashi. Voda s n\u00edzk\u00fdm obsahem miner\u00e1l\u016f pom\u00e1h\u00e1 z kombu a bonita z\u00edskat \u010dist\u00e9 chut\u011b, ani\u017e by se v\u00fdvar zakalil. Su\u0161en\u00e1 \u0159asa kombu dod\u00e1v\u00e1 glutam\u00e1t a hloubku chuti. Katsuobushi, hoblinky su\u0161en\u00e9ho bonita, p\u0159id\u00e1v\u00e1 inosin\u00e1t, kter\u00fd zesiluje umami, a p\u0159itom zachov\u00e1v\u00e1 lehkost v\u00fdvaru.\n\n\n\nHlavn\u00ed hv\u011bzdou je matsutake. Nejl\u00e9pe vyb\u00edrejte houby s t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 uzav\u0159en\u00fdm kloboukem, kter\u00fd je zn\u00e1mkou \u010derstvosti a v\u00fdrazn\u00e9 v\u016fn\u011b: pr\u00e1v\u011b matsutake dod\u00e1v\u00e1 t\u00f3ny borovice, sko\u0159ice a lesn\u00edho podrostu. \n\n\n\nDochucovadla jeho v\u016fni doprov\u00e1zej\u00ed, ale nep\u0159ehlu\u0161uj\u00ed ji: usukuchi shoyu dod\u00e1 slanost a jasn\u011b vykresl\u00ed chu\u0165, jemn\u00e1 mo\u0159sk\u00e1 s\u016fl ji dolad\u00ed, sak\u00e9 prohloub\u00ed a mirin p\u0159id\u00e1 nen\u00e1padnou sladkost i trochu lesku.\n\n\n\nO zbytek se postaraj\u00ed z\u00e1v\u011bre\u010dn\u00e9 drobnosti. Mitsuba p\u0159in\u00e1\u0161\u00ed bylinnou sv\u011b\u017eest na pomez\u00ed celeru a petr\u017eele a tenk\u00fd prou\u017eek k\u016fry z yuzu nebo sudachi p\u0159id\u00e1v\u00e1 citrusov\u00fd t\u00f3n, s n\u00edm\u017e se to nesm\u00ed p\u0159ehnat. \n\n\n\nM\u00e1te chu\u0165 na n\u011bco syt\u011bj\u0161\u00edho? Nikujaga zah\u0159eje za podzimn\u00edch ve\u010der\u016f\n\n\n\nPodle chuti m\u016f\u017eete p\u0159idat hedv\u00e1bn\u00e9 tofu pro jemnost, kamaboko pro mo\u0159sk\u00fd t\u00f3n nebo temari fu, kter\u00e9 nas\u00e1kne v\u00fdvarem a dod\u00e1 barvu i texturu. Nakonec v\u011bnujte pozornost p\u016fvodu: voln\u011b rostouc\u00ed houby lze snadno zam\u011bnit a matsutake mus\u00ed poch\u00e1zet od certifikovan\u00fdch dodavatel\u016f nebo b\u00fdt ur\u010deno mykologem, nikdy je nesb\u00edrejte bez rozmyslu.\n\n\n\n\n\n\tMatsutake suimono\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t1 mal\u00e1 houba matsutake (nebo 1 velk\u00e1 houba shiitake)0.5 mal\u00e9ho bloku tofu0.25 svazku mitsuby400 ml dashi (ide\u00e1ln\u011b \u010dir\u00fd ichiban-dashi (kombu + katsuobushi), p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b dashi v pr\u00e1\u0161ku)1.5 l\u017e\u00edce sak\u00e91.5 l\u017ei\u010dky mirinu0.5 l\u017ei\u010dky soli1.5 l\u017ei\u010dky s\u00f3jov\u00e9 om\u00e1\u010dky (japonsk\u00e9 (nap\u0159. Kikkoman))\t\n\t\n\t\tP\u0159\u00edpravaTvrd\u00fd konec t\u0159en\u011b houby matsutake se\u0159\u00edzn\u011bte do \u0161pi\u010dky a pot\u00e9 houbu ot\u0159ete dob\u0159e vy\u017ed\u00edmanou vlhkou ut\u011brkou (nemyjte ji pod tekouc\u00ed vodou).Odd\u011blte t\u0159e\u0148 od klobouku, t\u0159e\u0148 nakr\u00e1jejte na tenk\u00e9 pl\u00e1tky a klobouk na \u010dtvrtky.Tofu nakr\u00e1jejte na mal\u00e9 kosti\u010dky.Mitsubu zbavte ko\u0159\u00ednk\u016f a nakr\u00e1jejte na kousky dlouh\u00e9 p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b 2 cm.Va\u0159en\u00edDashi nalijte do rendl\u00edku a na siln\u00e9m ohni p\u0159ive\u010fte k varu.St\u00e1hn\u011bte ohe\u0148 na st\u0159edn\u00ed a p\u0159idejte tofu, matsutake, sak\u00e9, mirin, s\u016fl a s\u00f3jovou om\u00e1\u010dku.Nechte zvolna va\u0159it p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b 2 minuty, jen aby se tofu dob\u0159e proh\u0159\u00e1lo a v\u00fdvar z\u00edskal v\u016fni.P\u0159idejte mitsubu, vypn\u011bte ohe\u0148, rozd\u011blte pol\u00e9vku do misek a ihned pod\u00e1vejte.\t\n\t\n\t\t\u010cir\u00e1 pol\u00e9vka se z\u00e1m\u011brn\u011b dochucuje jen jemn\u011b: ochutnejte ji a podle pot\u0159eby p\u0159isolte tak, aby vynikla chu\u0165 dashi a houby.\nMatsutake neva\u0159te p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 dlouho: jej\u00ed v\u016fn\u011b rychle vyprch\u00e1v\u00e1, z\u00e1kladem postupu je proto m\u00edrn\u00fd var po dobu p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b 2 minut.\n\t\n\t\n\t\tAccompagnement, Plat principal, Soupes et bouillonsJaponaise","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/198447","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=198447"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/198447\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/161894"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=198447"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=198447"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=198447"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}