{"id":198354,"title":"Hiyajiru, studen\u00e1 pol\u00e9vka z Mijazaki","modified":"2026-10-31T17:36:52+01:00","plain":"Studen\u00e1 miska z Mijazaki: v\u00fdvar z ope\u010den\u00e9ho misa a drcen\u00e9ho sezamu, kter\u00fd se ledov\u011b vychlazen\u00fd nal\u00e9v\u00e1 na je\u0161t\u011b teplou r\u00fd\u017ei s je\u010dmenem.\n\n\n\nJe dusno, od poledne nem\u00e1te chu\u0165 k j\u00eddlu, a p\u0159esto je tahle miska za p\u00e1r minut pr\u00e1zdn\u00e1. V\u00fdvar pln\u00fd ope\u010den\u00e9ho misa a drcen\u00e9ho sezamu putuje z lednice rovnou na je\u0161t\u011b teplou r\u00fd\u017ei s je\u010dmenem. \n\n\n\nPod hladinou nas\u00e1v\u00e1 v\u00fdvar ru\u010dn\u011b natrhan\u00e9 tofu, okurka si zachov\u00e1v\u00e1 k\u0159upavost a shiso s myogou v\u0161e na posledn\u00ed chv\u00edli o\u017eiv\u00ed. V Mijazaki se tohle j\u00eddlo j\u00ed, kdy\u017e horko bere chu\u0165 va\u0159it, tak\u017ee se skv\u011ble hod\u00ed i na chv\u00edle, kdy se v\u00e1m prost\u011b v\u016f\u016f\u016fbec nechce\n\n\n\nDal\u0161\u00ed st\u00e1lice japonsk\u00e9ho letn\u00edho stolu, hiyayakko, se tak\u00e9 pod\u00e1v\u00e1 po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b vychlazen\u00e1\n\n\n\nCo je hiyajiru?\n\n\n\nHiyajiru (\u51b7\u3084\u6c41) znamen\u00e1 \u201estuden\u00e1 pol\u00e9vka\u201c, ale verze z Mijazaki m\u00e1 mnohem p\u0159esn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed pravidla, ne\u017e tento p\u0159eklad nazna\u010duje. Stoj\u00ed na t\u0159ech pil\u00ed\u0159\u00edch: m\u00edstn\u00ed su\u0161en\u00e9 nebo grilovan\u00e9 ryb\u011b, od kranase (aji) po niboshi; je\u010dn\u00e9m misu z Kj\u00fa\u0161\u00fa, kter\u00e9 je jemn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e r\u00fd\u017eov\u00e9 miso a t\u0159e se s opra\u017een\u00fdm b\u00edl\u00fdm sezamem; a tepl\u00e9 r\u00fd\u017ei s je\u010dmenem, zvan\u00e9 mugi-meshi, jako z\u00e1kladu. \n\n\n\nPo\u017eitek spo\u010d\u00edv\u00e1 v kontrastu: ledov\u00fd v\u00fdvar pros\u00e1kne je\u0161t\u011b tepl\u00fdmi zrny, osolen\u00e1 kole\u010dka okurky z\u016fst\u00e1vaj\u00ed k\u0159upav\u00e1 a pevn\u00e9 tofu natrhan\u00e9 rukama nas\u00e1v\u00e1 v\u00fdvar sv\u00fdmi nepravideln\u00fdmi okraji. Myoga a shiso v\u0161e zavr\u0161uj\u00ed svou sv\u011b\u017e\u00ed v\u016fn\u00ed.\n\n\n\nPostup je stejn\u011b d\u016fle\u017eit\u00fd jako suroviny. Sezam se rozdrt\u00ed v r\u00fdhovan\u00e9m hmo\u017ed\u00ed\u0159i suribachi, pot\u00e9 se do n\u011bj p\u0159im\u00edch\u00e1 nadroben\u00e1 ryba a nakonec mugi-miso. Pasta se rozet\u0159e po st\u011bn\u00e1ch hmo\u017ed\u00ed\u0159e a op\u00e1l\u00ed nad plamenem, a\u017e za\u010dne lehce \u010dernat. T\u00edm se prohloub\u00ed chu\u0165 misa a potla\u010d\u00ed p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 v\u00fdrazn\u00e9 ryb\u00ed t\u00f3ny. \n\n\n\nTradi\u010dn\u011b se \u0159ed\u00ed velmi studenou vodou, i kdy\u017e n\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed dne\u0161n\u00ed kucha\u0159i d\u00e1vaj\u00ed p\u0159ednost lehk\u00e9mu v\u00fdvaru dashi.\n\n\n\nPodobn\u011b osv\u011b\u017euj\u00edc\u00ed oroshi soba se jed\u00ed studen\u00e9 a\u017e do z\u00e1\u0159\u00ed\n\n\n\nZrozen\u00e9 z dan\u011b z r\u00fd\u017ee a dusn\u00fdch let\n\n\n\nMijazaki je uzn\u00e1vanou kol\u00e9bkou hiyajiru a spolky na ochranu tradic, jako je ten ve m\u011bst\u011b Saito, tu dodnes h\u00e1j\u00ed p\u0159\u00edpravu v hmo\u017ed\u00ed\u0159i. \n\n\n\nP\u016fvod pokrmu se \u010dasto klade do obdob\u00ed Kamakura, a to na z\u00e1klad\u011b dokumentu, kter\u00fd \u00fadajn\u011b stav\u00ed do protikladu samuraje poj\u00eddaj\u00edc\u00ed horkou pol\u00e9vku a mnichy, kte\u0159\u00ed ji jedli studenou s r\u00fd\u017e\u00ed. Tento p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh m\u00e1 v m\u00edstn\u00ed pam\u011bti d\u016fle\u017eit\u00e9 m\u00edsto, citovan\u00fd text v\u0161ak v souborn\u00e9m katalogu japonsk\u00fdch n\u00e1rodn\u00edch knih nenajdeme.\n\n\n\nSamotn\u00fd n\u00e1zev je \u010dasov\u011b dolo\u017een l\u00e9pe. Kulin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00fd spis Ryori Monogatari, vydan\u00fd v roce 1643, u\u017e hiyajiru zmi\u0148uje. Popsan\u00e1 p\u0159\u00edprava p\u0159ipom\u00ednala sp\u00ed\u0161e aemono, ochucen\u00fd pokrm z mozuku, nori, jedl\u00fdch ka\u0161tan\u016f, z\u00e1zvoru, myogy a ryb\u00ed pasty. N\u00e1zev se tedy pou\u017e\u00edval d\u00e1vno p\u0159edt\u00edm, ne\u017e se ust\u00e1lil zp\u016fsob p\u0159\u00edpravy.\n\n\n\nSezam drcen\u00fd v hmo\u017ed\u00ed\u0159i dod\u00e1v\u00e1 kouzlo tak\u00e9 pokrmu h\u014drens\u014d gomaae\n\n\n\nDne\u0161n\u00ed podoba ov\u0161em vze\u0161la z pol\u00ed. Da\u0148 nengu od\u010derp\u00e1vala 40 a\u017e 60\u00a0% sklizn\u011b r\u00fd\u017ee, n\u011bkdy i v\u00edce, tak\u017ee roln\u00edci jedli r\u00fd\u017ei s je\u010dmenem nam\u00edsto b\u00edl\u00e9 le\u0161t\u011bn\u00e9 r\u00fd\u017ee. \n\n\n\nZa vlhk\u00fdch let v Mijazaki d\u00e1vali na zbytky rann\u00edho mugi-meshi neope\u010den\u00e9 miso a v\u0161e zal\u00e9vali studenou vodou: s\u016fl, voda a j\u00eddlo sn\u011bden\u00e9 b\u011bhem p\u0159est\u00e1vky. Dal\u0161\u00ed generace za\u010daly grilovat rybu, p\u0159idaly sezam, opalovaly pastu nad plamenem a z pevn\u00e9ho tofu ud\u011blaly m\u00edstn\u00ed pozn\u00e1vac\u00ed znamen\u00ed.\n\n\n\nHlavn\u00ed suroviny na hiyajiru\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nRyba tvo\u0159\u00ed v\u00fdrazn\u00fd chu\u0165ov\u00fd z\u00e1klad: grilovan\u00e9 a pot\u00e9 nadroben\u00e9 aji, kamasu nebo tai, p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b su\u0161en\u00e9 a n\u00e1sledn\u011b ope\u010den\u00e9 niboshi a ago. Drobn\u00fdm su\u0161en\u00fdm sardink\u00e1m se odstra\u0148uj\u00ed hlavy a vnit\u0159nosti, aby nezho\u0159kly, a ope\u010den\u00ed potla\u010duje p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 v\u00fdrazn\u00e9 mo\u0159sk\u00e9 aroma. R\u00fd\u017ee s je\u010dmenem pod v\u00fdvarem dod\u00e1v\u00e1 j\u00eddlu p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fd skus a tepl\u00fd protip\u00f3l, kter\u00fd je pro tento pokrm ur\u010duj\u00edc\u00ed.\n\n\n\nJe\u010dn\u00e9 miso z Kj\u00fa\u0161\u00fa dod\u00e1v\u00e1 slanost, plnost a jemnou sladkost poch\u00e1zej\u00edc\u00ed z je\u010dn\u00e9ho koji; ope\u010den\u00edm z\u00edsk\u00e1 typickou pra\u017eenou chu\u0165, kter\u00e1 hiyajiru odli\u0161uje od oby\u010dejn\u00e9 studen\u00e9 pol\u00e9vky. \n\n\n\nB\u00edl\u00e1 sezamov\u00e1 sem\u00ednka, rozemlet\u00e1 tak, aby uvolnila v\u016fni, dod\u00e1vaj\u00ed tuk a kr\u00e9movou konzistenci, d\u00edky n\u00ed\u017e se pasta sn\u00e1ze spoj\u00ed v emulzi. Mnoz\u00ed z\u016fst\u00e1vaj\u00ed u ledov\u00e9 vody, aby zachovali \u010distou chu\u0165, jin\u00ed p\u0159id\u00e1vaj\u00ed lehk\u00fd v\u00fdvar dashi pro dal\u0161\u00ed d\u00e1vku umami.\n\n\n\nKdy\u017e se horko zabydl\u00ed natrvalo, p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed na \u0159adu nudlov\u00e9 hiyashi chuka\n\n\n\nZbytek stoj\u00ed na sv\u011b\u017eesti. Pevn\u00e9 tofu (momen) se nech\u00e1 okapat a pak se natrh\u00e1 rukama, d\u00edky \u010demu\u017e nas\u00e1kne l\u00e9pe, ne\u017e kdyby se nakr\u00e1jelo no\u017eem. Okurka se nakr\u00e1j\u00ed na tenk\u00e9 pl\u00e1tky, osol\u00ed a vyma\u010dk\u00e1, aby z\u016fstala k\u0159upav\u00e1 a ne\u0159edila v\u00fdvar. Myoga a shiso vyva\u017euj\u00ed hutnost sezamu a dod\u00e1vaj\u00ed misce letn\u00ed v\u016fni.\n\n\n\n\n\n\tAutentick\u00e1 hiyajiru - Studen\u00e1 pol\u00e9vka z Mijazaki\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t30 g niboshi (mal\u00fdch su\u0161en\u00fdch sardinek) (\u010dist\u00e1 hmotnost)300 ml vody25 g sezamov\u00fdch sem\u00ednek (pra\u017een\u00fdch)50 g je\u010dn\u00e9ho misa (mugi miso) (lze nahradit 1,5\u00d7 v\u011bt\u0161\u00edm mno\u017estv\u00edm b\u00edl\u00e9ho misa)0.5 bloku pevn\u00e9ho tofu (momen)0.5 okurky2 myoga (poupata japonsk\u00e9ho z\u00e1zvoru) (voliteln\u00e9)5 list\u016f shiso (\u014dba)2 misky r\u00fd\u017ee (tradi\u010dn\u011b s je\u010dmenem (voliteln\u00e9))\t\n\t\n\t\tDashi z niboshiZ niboshi odstra\u0148te hlavi\u010dky a vnit\u0159nosti.Do rendl\u00edku dejte 10 g niboshi s vodou a nechte 30 minut odst\u00e1t.P\u0159ive\u010fte k varu a pot\u00e9 va\u0159te na m\u00edrn\u00e9m ohni 6 a\u017e 7 minut, p\u0159itom sb\u00edrejte p\u011bnu.Sce\u010fte, abyste z\u00edskali dashi.Z\u00e1klad z misa a sezamuZbyl\u00e9 niboshi dejte na p\u00e1nev na m\u00edrn\u00fd ohe\u0148; jakmile jsou k\u0159upav\u00e9, p\u0159idejte sezam a nasucho pra\u017ete, dokud se sm\u011bs nerozvon\u00ed.Sm\u011bs sezamu a niboshi rozdr\u0165te v suribachi (japonsk\u00e9m hmo\u017ed\u00ed\u0159i) nebo v kuchy\u0148sk\u00e9m robotu.Miso rozet\u0159ete po vnit\u0159ku rendl\u00edku, rendl\u00edk obra\u0165te a miso op\u00e9kejte p\u0159\u00edmo nad plamenem, dokud nezhn\u011bdne a v\u00fdrazn\u011b se nerozvon\u00ed.K misu p\u0159idejte sm\u011bs sezamu a niboshi a postupn\u011b \u0159e\u010fte v\u00fdvarem dashi. Nechte vychladnout a pot\u00e9 ulo\u017ete do lednice.P\u0159\u00edsady a pod\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00edOkurku a myogu nakr\u00e1jejte na tenk\u00e1 kole\u010dka a shiso na tenk\u00e9 prou\u017eky.Do studen\u00e9ho v\u00fdvaru p\u0159idejte okurku, myogu a rukama rozdroben\u00e9 tofu.Do misky dejte r\u00fd\u017ei s je\u010dmenem a p\u0159elijte ji studen\u00fdm v\u00fdvarem.\t\n\t\n\t\t\nPro jemn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed verzi nahra\u010fte je\u010dn\u00e9 miso b\u00edl\u00fdm misem (p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b 1,5\u00d7 v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed mno\u017estv\u00ed).\nPod\u00e1vejte dob\u0159e vychlazen\u00e9: pobyt v lednici chu\u0165 v\u00fdrazn\u011b zlep\u0161\u00ed.\nMyoga je voliteln\u00e1, ale dod\u00e1 sv\u011b\u017e\u00ed a aromatick\u00fd t\u00f3n.\n\n\t\n\t\n\t\tPlat principalJaponaise","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/198354","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=198354"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/198354\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/162854"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=198354"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=198354"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=198354"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}