{"id":198121,"title":"Ku\u0159e tandoori","modified":"2026-10-31T17:32:34+01:00","plain":"Na\u0159\u00edznut\u00e9 kousky ku\u0159ete, nejprve ochucen\u00e9 citronem, pot\u00e9 marinovan\u00e9 v jogurtu a ko\u0159en\u00ed a nakonec zprudka ope\u010den\u00e9 na p\u00e1nvi. V\u00fdsledkem je vo\u0148av\u00e9 tandoori s kr\u00e1sn\u011b zlatavou k\u016frkou.\n\n\n\n\u010cervenooran\u017eov\u00e1 k\u016frka pod zuby k\u0159upne, prot\u00ednaj\u00ed ji \u010dern\u00e9 prou\u017eky a leskne se gh\u00ed. Pod n\u00ed je maso st\u00e1le pln\u00e9 \u0161\u0165\u00e1vy. Kouzlo ku\u0159ete tandoori spo\u010d\u00edv\u00e1 pr\u00e1v\u011b v tomto kontrastu: trp\u011bliv\u00e9 a pe\u010dliv\u00e9 marinov\u00e1n\u00ed ve dvou f\u00e1z\u00edch a pot\u00e9 prudk\u00fd \u017e\u00e1r pece tand\u00far, kter\u00fd maso ope\u010de, ani\u017e by ho vysu\u0161il. \n\n\n\nTato klasika pa\u0148d\u017e\u00e1bsk\u00e9ho grilov\u00e1n\u00ed pro\u0161la cestou od j\u00eddelen dhaba p\u0159es slavnostn\u00ed hostiny v Dill\u00ed a\u017e k celosv\u011btov\u00e9 sl\u00e1v\u011b. Abyste si ji vychutnali naplno, je t\u0159eba pochopit, co ji ur\u010duje: kou\u0159, kyselost, ko\u0159en\u00ed a \u017ehav\u00e9 uhl\u00edky. \n\n\n\nV\u00fdrazn\u011b se li\u0161\u00ed od m\u00e1slov\u00e9ho ku\u0159ete\n\n\n\nPro p\u0159edstavu o jeho charakteru ho m\u016f\u017eeme p\u0159irovnat k jin\u00fdm marinovan\u00fdm a grilovan\u00fdm ku\u0159ec\u00edm pokrm\u016fm, jako jsou thajsk\u00e9 ku\u0159ec\u00ed \u0161p\u00edzy satay, ku\u0159ec\u00ed \u0161p\u00edzy s citronovou tr\u00e1vou nebo ku\u0159e tikka masala. Odli\u0161uje se v\u0161ak p\u0159\u00edpravou such\u00fdm, velmi prudk\u00fdm \u017e\u00e1rem, kter\u00fd vytv\u00e1\u0159ej\u00ed \u017ehav\u00e9 uhl\u00edky v tand\u00faru.\n\n\n\nCo je ku\u0159e tandoori?\n\n\n\nTand\u00far je p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm v\u00e1lcovit\u00e1 hlin\u011bn\u00e1 pec. Top\u00ed se v n\u00ed d\u0159evem nebo uhl\u00edm a zp\u016fsob jej\u00edho vyu\u017eit\u00ed se utv\u00e1\u0159el d\u00edky kontakt\u016fm se St\u0159edn\u00ed Asi\u00ed, Persi\u00ed a Afgh\u00e1nist\u00e1nem. \n\n\n\nDlouho slou\u017eila hlavn\u011b k pe\u010den\u00ed indick\u00fdch chleb\u016f, nap\u0159\u00edklad \u010dap\u00e1t\u00ed, p\u0159itisknut\u00fdch k rozp\u00e1len\u00fdm st\u011bn\u00e1m. Postupn\u011b se v n\u00ed v\u0161ak za\u010dalo p\u0159ipravovat i maso na jehl\u00e1ch. Ku\u0159e tandoori se stalo nejslavn\u011bj\u0161\u00edm p\u0159\u00edkladem tohoto vyu\u017eit\u00ed.\n\n\n\nV tand\u00faru lze p\u00e9ct i tradi\u010dn\u00ed chleby naan\n\n\n\nV klasick\u00e9 podob\u011b se pokrm p\u0159ipravuje z mal\u00e9ho, mlad\u00e9ho a k\u0159ehk\u00e9ho ku\u0159ete, ide\u00e1ln\u011b o hmotnosti 800 a\u017e 1 000 g v kuchy\u0148sk\u00e9 \u00faprav\u011b, ze kter\u00e9ho se \u00fapln\u011b odstran\u00ed k\u016f\u017ee. Do masa se d\u011blaj\u00ed hlubok\u00e9 z\u00e1\u0159ezy, n\u011bkdy a\u017e ke kosti, aby ochucen\u00ed nez\u016fstalo jen na povrchu. \n\n\n\nPrvn\u00ed marin\u00e1da p\u016fsob\u00ed jako kysel\u00fd soln\u00fd n\u00e1lev. Spojuje citron nebo limetu, hrubozrnnou s\u016fl a chilli, n\u011bkdy v podob\u011b mlet\u00e9ho chilli. Tato sm\u011bs za\u010dne vytahovat vlhkost a zk\u0159eh\u010dovat svalov\u00e1 vl\u00e1kna. \n\n\n\nDruh\u00e1 marin\u00e1da m\u00e1 podobu hust\u00e9, soudr\u017en\u00e9 pasty. Obsahuje vykapan\u00fd jogurt, ho\u0159\u010di\u010dn\u00fd olej a pojivo, nap\u0159\u00edklad lehce opra\u017een\u00fd besan nebo sattu. P\u0159id\u00e1v\u00e1 se do n\u00ed z\u00e1zvorovo-\u010desnekov\u00e1 pasta, \u0159\u00edmsk\u00fd km\u00edn, koriandr, garam masala, \u010dern\u00e1 s\u016fl a kasoori methi.\n\n\n\nO to hlavn\u00ed se pak postar\u00e1 tand\u00far. Jeho extr\u00e9mn\u00ed \u017e\u00e1r spojuje s\u00e1l\u00e1n\u00ed uhl\u00edk\u016f, hork\u00fd vzduch a veden\u00ed tepla grilovac\u00ed jehlou. Povrch masa osych\u00e1, hn\u011bdne a m\u00edsty \u010dern\u00e1, zat\u00edmco uvnit\u0159 z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 \u0161\u0165avnat\u00e9. \u0160\u0165\u00e1va odkap\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed na uhl\u00ed vytv\u00e1\u0159\u00ed kou\u0159, kter\u00fd maso provon\u00ed. \n\n\n\nPod\u00e1vejte s n\u00edm dobrou dom\u00e1c\u00ed okurkovou raitu\n\n\n\nV pe\u010dliv\u011b p\u0159ipraven\u00e9 nebo tradi\u010dn\u00ed verzi dod\u00e1v\u00e1 barvu ka\u0161m\u00edrsk\u00e9 chilli, syt\u011b \u010derven\u00e9, ale pom\u011brn\u011b jemn\u00e9, nikoli k\u0159iklav\u00e9 \u010derven\u00e9 barvivo. V chuti se vyva\u017euje slanost, ml\u00e9\u010dn\u00e1 kyselost a m\u00edrn\u00e1 p\u00e1livost. Su\u0161en\u00e1 p\u00edskavice p\u0159in\u00e1\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdraznou ho\u0159kost, kala namak lehk\u00fd sirn\u00fd t\u00f3n a pe\u010den\u00ed kou\u0159ov\u00fd z\u00e1v\u011br. Pokrm se pod\u00e1v\u00e1 hork\u00fd, s citronem, cibul\u00ed a ko\u0159en\u00edm chaat masala.\n\n\n\nP\u016fvod ku\u0159ete tandoori \n\n\n\nHistorie ku\u0159ete tandoori za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 d\u00e1vno p\u0159ed restauracemi, kter\u00e9 ho proslavily. Stopy po pe\u010den\u00ed masa, n\u011bkdy i dr\u016fbe\u017ee, v hlin\u011bn\u00fdch pec\u00edch podobn\u00fdch tand\u00faru b\u00fdvaj\u00ed spojov\u00e1ny s harappskou civilizac\u00ed ji\u017e ve 3. tis\u00edcilet\u00ed p\u0159ed na\u0161\u00edm letopo\u010dtem. \n\n\n\nDokl\u00e1daj\u00ed p\u0159\u00edbuznou techniku, nikoli existenci dne\u0161n\u00edho pokrmu. Pozd\u011bji se Su\u0161ruta samhita zmi\u0148uje o peci zvan\u00e9 kandu a o pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1n\u00ed \u010dern\u00e9 ho\u0159\u010dice k ochucov\u00e1n\u00ed masa. Ukazuje to p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm, jak d\u00e1vn\u00e9 je propojen\u00ed ko\u0159en\u00ed a pe\u010den\u00ed v uzav\u0159en\u00e9m prostoru p\u0159i velmi vysok\u00e9 teplot\u011b.\n\n\n\nV Pa\u0148d\u017e\u00e1bu z\u00edskal tand\u00far tak\u00e9 spole\u010denskou roli. Sanjha chulha neboli spole\u010dn\u00e1 pec byla sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed pa\u0148d\u017e\u00e1bsk\u00e9 a sikhsk\u00e9 tradice, spojen\u00e9 s ide\u00e1ly rovnosti guru N\u00e1naka na p\u0159elomu 15. a 16. stolet\u00ed. \n\n\n\nSdru\u017eovala dom\u00e1cnosti p\u0159i p\u0159\u00edprav\u011b ka\u017edodenn\u00edho chleba a naru\u0161ovala kastovn\u00ed bari\u00e9ry. Tento zvyk sd\u00edlet teplo, kou\u0159 i pe\u010den\u00ed p\u0159isp\u011bl k tomu, \u017ee si v regionu obl\u00edbili pokrmy s v\u00fdrazn\u00fdmi stopami \u017e\u00e1ru uhl\u00edk\u016f.\n\n\n\nP\u0159ipravte si tak\u00e9 lahodn\u00e9 vindaloo\n\n\n\nModern\u00ed podoba se za\u010dala utv\u00e1\u0159et v P\u00e9\u0161\u00e1varu ve 20. letech 20. stolet\u00ed. Mokha Singh Lamba provozoval v Gora Bazar malou j\u00eddelnu dhaba jm\u00e9nem Moti Mahal, kde jako \u010d\u00ed\u0161n\u00edci a kucha\u0159i pracovali Kundan Lal Gujral, Kundan Lal Jaggi a Thakur Das Magu. \n\n\n\nNa t\u00e9to k\u0159i\u017eovatce afgh\u00e1nsk\u00fdch, persk\u00fdch, pa\u0148d\u017e\u00e1bsk\u00fdch a st\u0159edoasijsk\u00fdch cest pomohli ust\u00e1lit a n\u00e1sledn\u011b zpopularizovat p\u0159\u00edpravu cel\u00e9ho nebo naporcovan\u00e9ho ku\u0159ete marinovan\u00e9ho v jogurtu a ko\u0159en\u00ed. To se pak peklo v tand\u00faru, spojovan\u00e9m do t\u00e9 doby p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm s chlebem.\n\n\n\nRozd\u011blen\u00ed Indie v roce 1947 tuto kuchyni n\u00e1siln\u011b vyko\u0159enilo. Tv\u016frci Moti Mahalu uprchli do Dill\u00ed, znovu otev\u0159eli podnik v Darj\u00e1gand\u017ei a nab\u00eddli hlavn\u00edmu m\u011bstu p\u0159\u00edmo\u010da\u0159ej\u0161\u00ed styl grilov\u00e1n\u00ed oproti pomalu p\u0159ipravovan\u00fdm mughalsk\u00fdm pokrm\u016fm s bohat\u00fdmi om\u00e1\u010dkami. V t\u00e9to kultu\u0159e stolov\u00e1n\u00ed, kde nechyb\u011bly ani samosy, si ku\u0159e tandoori na\u0161lo trval\u00e9 m\u00edsto. D\u017eav\u00e1harl\u00e1l N\u00e9hr\u00fa ho za\u0159adil na st\u00e1tn\u00ed bankety. \n\n\n\nPokud jde o mezin\u00e1rodn\u00ed ohlas, Jacqueline Kennedyov\u00e1 pr\u00fd ku\u0159e tandoori ochutnala v roce 1962 p\u0159i letu \u0158\u00edm-Bombaj a den\u00edk Los Angeles Times otiskl recept u\u017e v roce 1963. Mluvit v\u0161ak o jedin\u00e9m okam\u017eiku vzniku by bylo zjednodu\u0161uj\u00edc\u00ed: za sv\u00e9 celosv\u011btov\u00e9 roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159en\u00ed vd\u011b\u010d\u00ed z velk\u00e9 \u010d\u00e1sti diaspo\u0159e vznikl\u00e9 po rozd\u011blen\u00ed Indie, zat\u00edmco samotn\u00e1 technika je v\u00fdsledkem spole\u010dn\u00e9ho v\u00fdvoje. Indick\u00e9 verze b\u00fdvaj\u00ed v\u00fdrazn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed, kyselej\u0161\u00ed a z\u00e1\u0159iv\u011b \u010derven\u00e9. \n\n\n\nHlavn\u00ed suroviny na ku\u0159e tandoori\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nV\u00fdb\u011br ku\u0159ete je stejn\u011b d\u016fle\u017eit\u00fd jako marin\u00e1da. Mal\u00e9, mlad\u00e9 a k\u0159ehk\u00e9 ku\u0159e, ide\u00e1ln\u011b o hmotnosti 800 a\u017e 1 000 g v kuchy\u0148sk\u00e9 \u00faprav\u011b, bez k\u016f\u017ee a s hlubok\u00fdmi z\u00e1\u0159ezy, l\u00e9pe sn\u00e1\u0161\u00ed prudk\u00fd \u017e\u00e1r tand\u00faru. \n\n\n\nPrope\u010de se a\u017e ke st\u0159edu d\u0159\u00edve, ne\u017e se povrch p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 sp\u00e1l\u00ed, a ko\u0159en\u00ed pronik\u00e1 p\u0159\u00edmo do masa. Citron nebo limeta dodaj\u00ed po\u010d\u00e1te\u010dn\u00ed kyselost, zat\u00edmco hrubozrnn\u00e1 s\u016fl vyt\u00e1hne vlhkost z povrchu. \n\n\n\nTo je z\u00e1sadn\u00ed podm\u00ednka pro vytvo\u0159en\u00ed such\u00e9 k\u016frky m\u00edsto povrchu p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00edc\u00edho du\u0161en\u00e9 maso. Kyselost tu hraje d\u016fle\u017eitou roli p\u0159i utv\u00e1\u0159en\u00ed struktury, i kdy\u017e jej\u00ed \u00fa\u010dinek z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 velmi odli\u0161n\u00fd od toho u citronov\u00e9ho ku\u0159ete.\n\n\n\nCitronov\u00e9 ku\u0159e\n\n\n\nKa\u0161m\u00edrsk\u00e9 chilli dod\u00e1v\u00e1 pokrmu jeho typick\u00fd vzhled: tepl\u00fd \u010dervenooran\u017eov\u00fd odst\u00edn, jemn\u00e9 aroma a m\u00edrnou p\u00e1livost. Vykapan\u00fd jogurt, t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 stejn\u011b hust\u00fd jako \u010derstv\u00fd s\u00fdr, maso zk\u0159eh\u010d\u00ed, ani\u017e by ho rozm\u00e1\u010del, a p\u0159i pe\u010den\u00ed vytvo\u0159\u00ed chutnou zaschlou vrstvu. \n\n\n\nHo\u0159\u010di\u010dn\u00fd olej dod\u00e1v\u00e1 \u0161tiplavost typickou pro severn\u00ed Indii a pom\u00e1h\u00e1 past\u011b dob\u0159e p\u0159ilnout. Besan, lehce opra\u017een\u00e1 cizrnov\u00e1 mouka, slou\u017e\u00ed jako pojivo, stejn\u011b jako sattu. Oboj\u00ed pom\u00e1h\u00e1 marin\u00e1d\u011b dr\u017eet na mase i v extr\u00e9mn\u00edm \u017e\u00e1ru tand\u00faru.\n\n\n\nZ\u00e1zvorovo-\u010desnekov\u00e1 pasta tvo\u0159\u00ed aromatick\u00fd z\u00e1klad, ale je t\u0159eba ji d\u00e1vkovat s m\u00edrou: ostr\u00e1 chu\u0165 syrov\u00e9ho \u010desneku pat\u0159\u00ed k nejv\u00fdrazn\u011bj\u0161\u00edm nedostatk\u016fm. V tandoori m\u00e1 \u010desnek podpo\u0159it celek, ne se st\u00e1t dominantn\u00ed chut\u00ed, na rozd\u00edl od ku\u0159ete na \u010desneku, kter\u00e9 na tomto aromatu z\u00e1m\u011brn\u011b stav\u00ed. \n\n\n\n\u0158\u00edmsk\u00fd km\u00edn p\u0159in\u00e1\u0161\u00ed h\u0159ejivou zemitost, p\u0159i pou\u017eit\u00ed shahi jeera n\u011bkdy a\u017e d\u0159evit\u00e9 t\u00f3ny. Stejn\u00fd t\u00f3n \u0159\u00edmsk\u00e9ho km\u00ednu najdete i v hov\u011bz\u00edm s \u0159\u00edmsk\u00fdm km\u00ednem. Mlet\u00fd koriandr celek odleh\u010duje citronovou sv\u011b\u017eest\u00ed. Garam masala, p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b podle receptu shahi garam masala, p\u0159id\u00e1v\u00e1 h\u0159ejiv\u00e9 a komplexn\u00ed odst\u00edny. Kala namak dod\u00e1v\u00e1 hloubku umami s lehk\u00fdm sirn\u00fdm n\u00e1dechem, zat\u00edmco l\u00edstky kasoori methi zanech\u00e1vaj\u00ed bylinnou ho\u0159kost s m\u00edrn\u011b nasl\u00e1dl\u00fdm t\u00f3nem. \n\n\n\nB\u011bhem pe\u010den\u00ed lze maso p\u0159el\u00e9vat rozpu\u0161t\u011bn\u00fdm m\u00e1slem, gh\u00ed nebo ho\u0159\u010di\u010dn\u00fdm olejem, co\u017e podpo\u0159\u00ed zhn\u011bdnut\u00ed a pom\u016f\u017ee udr\u017eet vlhkost na povrchu.\n\n\n\n\n\n\tKu\u0159e tandoori\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\tNa ku\u0159e4 kusy ku\u0159ete (cel\u00e1 stehna nebo horn\u00ed stehna)Na po\u010d\u00e1te\u010dn\u00ed ochucen\u00ed1 l\u017ei\u010dka citronov\u00e9 \u0161\u0165\u00e1vys\u016fl (podle chuti)Na marin\u00e1du120 g jogurtu1.5 l\u017ei\u010dky masaly na ku\u0159e1 l\u017e\u00edce \u010desnekovo-z\u00e1zvorov\u00e9 pasty1 l\u017ei\u010dka mlet\u00e9ho \u010derven\u00e9ho chilli0.5 l\u017ei\u010dky mlet\u00e9 kurkumyNa op\u00e9k\u00e1n\u00ed a pod\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00edolej (na vymaz\u00e1n\u00ed)1 kostka m\u00e1slacibule (k pod\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed)citron (nakr\u00e1jen\u00fd na m\u011bs\u00ed\u010dky, k pod\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed)\t\n\t\n\t\tP\u0159\u00edpravaDo kus\u016f ku\u0159ete ud\u011blejte hlubok\u00e9 z\u00e1\u0159ezy a vlo\u017ete je do n\u00e1doby.P\u0159idejte citronovou \u0161\u0165\u00e1vu a s\u016fl a nechte 5 minut odpo\u010dinout.Marinov\u00e1n\u00edP\u0159idejte jogurt, mlet\u00e9 \u010derven\u00e9 chilli, mletou kurkumu, masalu na ku\u0159e a \u010desnekovo-z\u00e1zvorovou pastu. Dob\u0159e prom\u00edchejte, aby se v\u0161echny kusy ku\u0159ete obalily marin\u00e1dou.Dejte na 1 hodinu do lednice.Op\u00e9k\u00e1n\u00edRozeh\u0159ejte p\u00e1nev a vyma\u017ete ji olejem, pot\u00e9 p\u0159idejte kostku m\u00e1sla.Jakmile se m\u00e1slo rozpust\u00ed, p\u0159idejte kusy ku\u0159ete a op\u00e9kejte 1 a\u017e 2 minuty. Obra\u0165te je a d\u00e1le op\u00e9kejte za lehk\u00e9ho p\u0159itla\u010dov\u00e1n\u00ed l\u017e\u00edc\u00ed, dokud nebude ku\u0159e z obou stran dob\u0159e prope\u010den\u00e9.Pod\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00edKu\u0159e p\u0159endejte na tal\u00ed\u0159 a pod\u00e1vejte hork\u00e9 s cibul\u00ed a m\u011bs\u00ed\u010dky citronu.\t\n\t\n\t\t\nPro v\u00fdrazn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed chu\u0165 nechte ku\u0159e marinovat v lednici klidn\u011b p\u0159es noc.\nMno\u017estv\u00ed chilli p\u0159izp\u016fsobte tomu, jak p\u00e1liv\u00e1 j\u00eddla sn\u00e1\u0161\u00edte, a pokud je marin\u00e1da p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 hust\u00e1, p\u0159idejte trochu oleje.\n\n\t\n\t\n\t\tHauptgerichtIndisch","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/198121","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=198121"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/198121\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/116879"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=198121"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=198121"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=198121"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}