{"id":198072,"title":"Baozi, \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9 boch\u00e1nky va\u0159en\u00e9 v p\u00e1\u0159e","modified":"2026-10-31T17:31:15+01:00","plain":"Zvedn\u011bte v\u00edko bambusov\u00e9ho pa\u0159\u00e1\u010dku, a\u0165 u\u017e jste v pekingsk\u00fdch chu-tchunz\u00edch, nebo p\u0159ed j\u00eddeln\u00ed z\u00f3nou ve Flushingu. V\u0161ude se opakuje stejn\u00e1 sc\u00e9na: zasy\u010den\u00ed p\u00e1ry, obl\u00e1\u010dek v\u016fn\u011b tepl\u00e9ho p\u0161eni\u010dn\u00e9ho t\u011bsta a \u0159ady buclat\u00fdch boch\u00e1nk\u016f s leskl\u00fdm povrchem. Prodava\u010di se \u010din\u00ed: v\u00edka klapaj\u00ed, kle\u0161t\u011b o sebe cinkaj\u00ed.\u00a0\n\n\n\nBao neboli baozi pat\u0159\u00ed k nej\u010dast\u011bji konzumovan\u00fdm j\u00eddl\u016fm v \u010c\u00edn\u011b. (A tak\u00e9 u m\u011b.) V\u0161echno na nich je lahodn\u00e9: od jemn\u00e9 struktury t\u011bsta a\u017e po v\u00fdraznou chu\u0165 n\u00e1pln\u011b, kterou jsem vyladil po mnoha pokusech.\n\n\n\nZa skromnou trojic\u00ed mouka, voda a mlet\u00e9 maso se skr\u00fdv\u00e1 um\u011bn\u00ed s tak p\u0159esn\u00fdmi pravidly, \u017ee na severu peka\u0159i dodnes po\u010d\u00edtaj\u00ed z\u00e1hyby, aby posoudili u\u0161lechtilost boch\u00e1nku. V zemi, kde dnes kav\u00e1rny pod\u00e1vaj\u00ed pala\u010dinky s aktivn\u00edm uhl\u00edm i hranolky s lan\u00fd\u017ei, st\u00e1le rozpaluj\u00ed internetov\u00e1 f\u00f3ra debaty o tom, co vlastn\u011b d\u011bl\u00e1 baozi prav\u00fdm baozi. Nejde jen o oby\u010dejn\u00fd ob\u011bd: zakousnout se do dokonal\u00e9ho baozi znamen\u00e1 ochutnat osmn\u00e1ct stolet\u00ed \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9 kulin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 vynal\u00e9zavosti i h\u0159ejiv\u00e9 ka\u017edodenn\u00ed kuchyn\u011b.\n\n\n\nObjevte tak\u00e9 japonskou verzi, nikuman\n\n\n\nOd legend o mantou k c\u00edsa\u0159sk\u00fdm j\u00eddeln\u00ed\u010dk\u016fm: 1 800 let historie\n\n\n\nPrvn\u00ed p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh o pln\u011bn\u00e9m boch\u00e1nku je z\u00e1rove\u0148 p\u0159\u00edb\u011bhem o strategii i ob\u011btov\u00e1n\u00ed. Kolem III. stolet\u00ed n. l. pr\u00fd strat\u00e9g \u010cu-ke Liang obalil maso t\u011bstem tak, aby p\u0159ipom\u00ednalo lidsk\u00e9 hlavy, a pot\u00e9 boch\u00e1nky vhodil do rozbou\u0159en\u00e9 \u0159eky, aby duchov\u00e9 zajistili jeho vojsku bezpe\u010dn\u00fd p\u0159echod. A\u0165 u\u017e je tento p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh pravdiv\u00fd, nebo ne, zas\u00e9v\u00e1 jednu my\u0161lenku: p\u0161eni\u010dn\u00e9 t\u011bsto m\u016f\u017ee ukr\u00fdvat nejen n\u00e1pl\u0148, ale i hlub\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdznam.\n\n\n\nZa dynastie Sung (960-1279) se slovo \u201ebaozi\u201c objevuje v tr\u017en\u00edch z\u00e1znamech vedle kombinac\u00ed jako z kucha\u0159ova snu: mantou s jehn\u011b\u010d\u00edm, krab\u00ed jikry, nebo dokonce vep\u0159ov\u00e9 konfitovan\u00e9 v cukru. Dvorn\u00ed kucha\u0159i v \u010cchang-anu za dynastie Tchang \u0161li je\u0161t\u011b d\u00e1l a do pochoutky zvan\u00e9 y\u00faji\u0101nmian vkl\u00e1dali medv\u011bd\u00ed tuk a zv\u011b\u0159inu: podle Gastronomick\u00fdch letopis\u016f dynastie Tchang si c\u00edsa\u0159sk\u00fd pal\u00e1c \u017e\u00e1dal ok\u00e1zalost i v oby\u010dejn\u00e9m boch\u00e1nku.\n\n\n\nPosu\u0148me se na konec dynastie \u010cching. V roce 1858 vznik\u00e1 v p\u0159\u00edstavn\u00edm a \u017eelezni\u010dn\u00edm m\u011bst\u011b Tchien-\u0165in podnik Goubuli, kter\u00fd d\u00e1v\u00e1 jasnou podobu modern\u00edmu severo\u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9mu stylu: nap\u016fl vykynut\u00e9 t\u011bsto, velmi \u0161\u0165avnat\u00e9 vep\u0159ov\u00e9 a podle m\u00edstn\u00ed tradice p\u0159esn\u011b osmn\u00e1ct z\u00e1hyb\u016f. Pozd\u011bji, s rozvojem \u017eeleznice, roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159\u00ed pouli\u010dn\u00ed prodejci boch\u00e1nky Goubuli po n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00edch na severu zem\u011b. B\u011bhem stalet\u00ed se baozi prom\u011bnily z ritu\u00e1ln\u00ed ob\u011btiny v pouli\u010dn\u00ed sva\u010dinu, ale ka\u017ed\u00fd nad\u00fdchan\u00fd obl\u00e1\u010dek si st\u00e1le nese v\u016fni legend a tradice.\n\n\n\nJak poznat prav\u00e9 baozi?\n\n\n\nZ\u00e1kladem obalu je p\u0161eni\u010dn\u00e1 mouka s vysok\u00fdm obsahem lepku, voda a mal\u00fd kousek kv\u00e1sku (nebo peka\u0159sk\u00e9ho dro\u017ed\u00ed) z p\u0159edchoz\u00edho dne. T\u011bsto se nech\u00e1 vykynout jen nap\u016fl a pak se zklidn\u00ed trochou z\u00e1sadit\u00e9 vody, kter\u00e1 neutralizuje kyselost a zpevn\u00ed lepkovou s\u00ed\u0165, aby st\u0159\u00eddka po uva\u0159en\u00ed z\u016fstala vzdu\u0161n\u00e1 i pru\u017en\u00e1. Ide\u00e1ln\u00ed t\u011bsto m\u00e1 m\u00edt barvu syrov\u00e9ho ke\u0161u o\u0159\u00ed\u0161ku, nikdy z\u00e1\u0159iv\u011b b\u00edlou jako kantonsk\u00e9\u00a0char siu\u00a0bao, hv\u011bzdy\u00a0dim\u00a0sum, jejich\u017e barvy se dosahuje b\u011blenou moukou a \u010dasto i trochou kyp\u0159ic\u00edho pr\u00e1\u0161ku.\n\n\n\nSkl\u00e1d\u00e1n\u00ed z\u00e1hyb\u016f je dokonale nacvi\u010den\u00e1 choreografie. Zku\u0161en\u00ed prodava\u010di pomalu st\u00e1\u010dej\u00ed kole\u010dko t\u011bsta do spir\u00e1ly a postupn\u011b ho stisk\u00e1vaj\u00ed, a\u017e vytvo\u0159\u00ed v\u011bne\u010dek z\u00e1hyb\u016f (v Tchien-\u0165inu tradi\u010dn\u011b osmn\u00e1ct), kter\u00fd boch\u00e1nek uzav\u0159e. Spoj, kter\u00fd v pa\u0159\u00e1\u010dku praskne, prozrazuje viditeln\u00fd nedostatek: \u0159emesln\u00e1 zru\u010dnost je sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed chuti.\n\n\n\nUvnit\u0159 se n\u00e1pl\u0148 chov\u00e1 t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 jako tekutina. Nahrubo mlet\u00e1 vep\u0159ov\u00e1 plec (p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b 70\u00a0% libov\u00e9ho masa a 30\u00a0% tuku) se \u0161leh\u00e1 s vychladl\u00fdm\u00a0v\u00fdvarem,\u00a0dokud nevst\u0159eb\u00e1 t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 p\u011btinu sv\u00e9 vlastn\u00ed hmotnosti a nez\u00edsk\u00e1 lesklou a pru\u017enou konzistenci.\u00a0S\u00f3jov\u00e1 om\u00e1\u010dka,\u00a0v\u00edno Shaoxing, z\u00e1zvor a jarn\u00ed cibulka sm\u011bs provon\u00ed; trocha oleje z pra\u017een\u00e9ho sezamu\u00a0na z\u00e1v\u011br dod\u00e1 z\u00e1kladn\u00ed chu\u0165ov\u00fd t\u00f3n. \n\n\n\nZelenina (zel\u00ed,\u00a0\u0159edkev\u00a0nebo v zim\u011b fenyklov\u00e1 na\u0165) se osol\u00ed a p\u0159ed p\u0159id\u00e1n\u00edm k masu se z n\u00ed d\u016fkladn\u011b vyma\u010dk\u00e1 voda. C\u00edl: \u0161\u0165avnat\u00e9 j\u00e1dro \u201evoda a n\u00e1pl\u0148\u201c, kter\u00e9 se p\u0159i prvn\u00edm prokousnut\u00ed t\u011bsta rozlije v \u00fastech lahodnou \u0161\u0165\u00e1vou. Purist\u00e9 se mohou p\u0159\u00edt o kv\u00e1sek \u010di instantn\u00ed dro\u017ed\u00ed, ale na jednom p\u0159ik\u00e1z\u00e1n\u00ed se shodnou: tenk\u00fd obal, bohat\u00e1 n\u00e1pl\u0148 a va\u0159en\u00ed v p\u00e1\u0159e, nikdy pe\u010den\u00ed v troub\u011b.\n\n\n\nR\u016fzn\u00e9 varianty baozi\n\n\n\nNasedn\u011bte do rann\u00edho vlaku kter\u00fdmkoli sm\u011brem a zjist\u00edte, \u017ee baozi maj\u00ed st\u00e1le dal\u0161\u00ed podoby. V Tchien-\u0165inu le\u017e\u00ed v pa\u0159\u00e1\u010dku vedle vyhl\u00e1\u0161en\u00fdch boch\u00e1nk\u016f s vep\u0159ov\u00fdm tak\u00e9 verze \u201eT\u0159i lah\u016fdky\u201c von\u00edc\u00ed po krevet\u00e1ch a vejc\u00edch.\n\n\n\nTchajwansk\u00e1 verze, p\u0159elo\u017een\u00e1 a napln\u011bn\u00e1 a\u017e po uva\u0159en\u00ed: gua bao s du\u0161en\u00fdm vep\u0159ov\u00fdm\n\n\n\n \u0160anghaj d\u00e1v\u00e1 u\u00a0xiaolongbao\u00a0p\u0159ednost t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 pr\u016fsvitn\u00e9mu obalu, jen lehce vykynut\u00e9mu nebo zcela nekynut\u00e9mu, p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b t\u011bsto sma\u017e\u00ed, aby u\u00a0shengjianbao\u00a0z\u00edskala k\u0159upav\u00fd spodek se sezamem. Kanton\u0161t\u00ed kucha\u0159i mouku b\u011bl\u00ed, t\u011bsto slad\u00ed a nech\u00e1vaj\u00ed om\u00e1\u010dku char siu zbarvit st\u0159\u00eddku do \u010dervenobronzova, vr\u0161ek jejich boch\u00e1nk\u016f pak prask\u00e1 do t\u0159\u00ed typick\u00fdch c\u00edp\u016f.\n\n\n\nSheng jian bao\n\n\n\nVydejme se na z\u00e1pad: ujgur\u0161t\u00ed prodava\u010di p\u0159itisk\u00e1vaj\u00ed sv\u00e9\u00a0kao baozi\u00a0pln\u011bn\u00e9 jehn\u011b\u010d\u00edm na rozp\u00e1len\u00e9 st\u011bny tand\u00faru. Za Jiho\u010d\u00ednsk\u00fdm mo\u0159em von\u00ed vzduchem malajsk\u00e9\u00a0pau\u00a0pln\u011bn\u00e9 bramborov\u00fdm\u00a0kari\u00a0s kurkumou, zat\u00edmco filip\u00ednsk\u00e9\u00a0siopao\u00a0ukr\u00fdvaj\u00ed\u00a0ku\u0159ec\u00ed adobo\u00a0du\u0161en\u00e9 v s\u00f3jov\u00e9 om\u00e1\u010dce. \n\n\n\nLahodn\u00e9 ku\u0159ec\u00ed adobo\n\n\n\nPodle kulin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9ho etnologa Yana\u00a0X. Liho (Nankingsk\u00e1 univerzita) a n\u011bkolika studi\u00ed publikovan\u00fdch v \u010dasopise\u00a0Food Heritage p\u0159est\u00e1v\u00e1 b\u00fdt pokrm baozi ve chv\u00edli, kdy se p\u0161eni\u010dn\u00e9 t\u011bsto u\u017e neva\u0159\u00ed v p\u00e1\u0159e. Rozmanitost neoslabuje jeho identitu; dokazuje, \u017ee se jedin\u00e1 my\u0161lenka dok\u00e1\u017ee p\u0159izp\u016fsobit, ani\u017e by ztratila svou nad\u00fdchanou du\u0161i.\n\n\n\nTipy na p\u0159\u00edpravu bao\n\n\n\nU t\u011bsta je pot\u0159eba p\u0159esn\u011b dodr\u017eovat mno\u017estv\u00ed surovin! Pot\u0159ebn\u00e9 mno\u017estv\u00ed vody se v\u0161ak m\u016f\u017ee li\u0161it podle pou\u017eit\u00e9 mouky. Spr\u00e1vn\u00e9 mno\u017estv\u00ed v\u00e1m v takov\u00e9m p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b pom\u016f\u017ee ur\u010dit jedin\u011b zku\u0161enost.\n\n\n\nPokud se t\u011bsto lep\u00ed, popra\u0161te pracovn\u00ed plochy kuku\u0159i\u010dn\u00fdm \u0161krobem, funguje to skv\u011ble! \n\n\n\nUp\u0159\u00edmn\u011b, p\u0159\u00edprava tohoto receptu zabere \u010das, ale o to v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed uspokojen\u00ed za\u017eijete, a\u017e se do boch\u00e1nku po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b zakousnete. Je to zkr\u00e1tka bo\u017esk\u00e9. \n\n\n\nVelmi podobnou n\u00e1pl\u0148 pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1m do sv\u00fdch \u010d\u00ednsk\u00fdch pln\u011bn\u00fdch knedl\u00ed\u010dk\u016f\n\n\n\n\n\n\tBaozi - \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9 boch\u00e1nky va\u0159en\u00e9 v p\u00e1\u0159e\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\tT\u011aSTO250 g p\u0161eni\u010dn\u00e9 mouky5 g soli8 g cukru4 g instantn\u00edho dro\u017ed\u00ed3 g pr\u00e1\u0161ku do pe\u010diva130 g vodyN\u00c1PL\u0147140 g pekingsk\u00e9ho zel\u00ed2 jarn\u00ed cibulky400 g mlet\u00e9ho vep\u0159ov\u00e9ho masa3 l\u017e\u00edce sv\u011btl\u00e9 s\u00f3jov\u00e9 om\u00e1\u010dky1 l\u017ei\u010dka sezamov\u00e9ho oleje1 l\u017ei\u010dka v\u00edna Shaoxing0.5 l\u017ei\u010dky jemn\u011b nasekan\u00e9ho z\u00e1zvoru1 l\u017ei\u010dka soli2 vejce1 l\u017e\u00edce kuku\u0159i\u010dn\u00e9ho \u0161krobu3 l\u017e\u00edce vody nebo vep\u0159ov\u00e9ho \u010di ku\u0159ec\u00edho v\u00fdvaru\t\n\t\n\t\tP\u0158\u00cdPRAVA N\u00c1PLN\u011aZel\u00ed blan\u0161\u00edrujte 5 minut ve vrouc\u00ed vod\u011b, nechte vychladnout.Mezit\u00edm v\u0161e krom\u011b vep\u0159ov\u00e9ho masa nakr\u00e1jejte najemno a prom\u00edchejteZel\u00ed nakr\u00e1jejte najemno, vyma\u010dkejte z n\u011bj vodu a p\u0159idejte k ostatn\u00edm surovin\u00e1mP\u0159idejte vep\u0159ov\u00e9 maso a 5 minut d\u016fkladn\u011b m\u00edchejte l\u017e\u00edc\u00ed. M\u00cdCHEJTE V\u017dDY STEJN\u00ddM SM\u011aREM. Dejte alespo\u0148 na 1 hodinu do lednice.P\u0158\u00cdPRAVA T\u011aSTAV\u0161e sm\u00edchejte, hn\u011b\u0165te 10 minut a pot\u00e9 nechte kynout p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b do zdvojn\u00e1soben\u00ed objemu (1 hodinu)T\u011bsto rozd\u011blte na 4 stejn\u00e9 kuli\u010dky, rozv\u00e1lejte v\u00e1le\u010dkem a vytvarujte baozi s n\u00e1pln\u00edVa\u0159te v p\u00e1\u0159e 15 minut\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\tDim sum, Entr\u00e9eChinoise","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/198072","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=198072"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/198072\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/157"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=198072"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=198072"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=198072"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}