{"id":197902,"title":"Gulab jamun","modified":"2026-10-31T17:29:13+01:00","plain":"M\u011bkk\u00e9 kuli\u010dky, nejprve sma\u017een\u00e9 a pot\u00e9 nas\u00e1kl\u00e9 sirupem provon\u011bn\u00fdm kardamomem, \u0161afr\u00e1nem a r\u016f\u017eovou vodou, tvo\u0159\u00ed neodolateln\u00fd indick\u00fd dezert.\n\n\n\nVla\u017en\u00e9 kuli\u010dky ze su\u0161en\u00e9ho ml\u00e9ka, sma\u017een\u00e9 na gh\u00ed, se koupou v lehk\u00e9m sirupu se \u0161afr\u00e1nem, kardamomem a r\u016f\u017eovou vodou. Takto se gulab jamun p\u0159edstavuje ve sv\u00e9 nejhonosn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed podob\u011b. \n\n\n\nVychutnejte si ho po po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b ko\u0159en\u011bn\u00e9m ku\u0159eti tandoori\n\n\n\nZa zimn\u00edho ve\u010dera vlo\u017e\u00ed cukr\u00e1\u0159 dv\u011b kuli\u010dky do hlin\u011bn\u00e9ho poh\u00e1rku kulhad nebo do dona, mal\u00e9 misti\u010dky ze spojen\u00fdch list\u016f. Zejm\u00e9na por\u00e9zn\u00ed poh\u00e1rky kulhad mohou nas\u00e1t \u010d\u00e1st p\u0159ebyte\u010dn\u00e9ho sirupu a dodat dezertu osobit\u00fd zemit\u00fd t\u00f3n. \n\n\n\nPak je jasn\u00e9, \u017ee jde sp\u00ed\u0161e o ml\u00e9\u010dnou cukrovinku lesknouc\u00ed se sirupem ne\u017e o americkou koblihu. Tento indick\u00fd dezert, kter\u00fd v\u0161ichni zn\u00e1me, rozhodn\u011b nen\u00ed pro ty, kdo si hl\u00eddaj\u00ed linii, ale v \u00fastech p\u0159in\u00e1\u0161\u00ed \u010dist\u00e9 pot\u011b\u0161en\u00ed\n\n\n\nP\u0159ipravte ho jako dezert po lahodn\u00e9m butter chicken\n\n\n\nCo je gulab jamun?\n\n\n\nU\u017e n\u00e1zev napov\u00edd\u00e1 v\u016fni i tvar: gulab spojuje persk\u00e9 gul (\u201ekv\u011bt\u201c) a ab (\u201evoda\u201c), zat\u00edmco jamun odkazuje na stejnojmenn\u00e9 indick\u00e9 ovoce, jeho\u017e velikost a tmavou barvu p\u0159ipom\u00edn\u00e1. Gulab jamun je v z\u00e1sad\u011b ml\u00e9\u010dn\u00e1 cukrovinka, jej\u00ed\u017e hlavn\u00ed slo\u017ekou je khoya a v n\u00ed\u017e mouka slou\u017e\u00ed pouze jako pojivo. \n\n\n\nPr\u00e1v\u011b t\u00edm se li\u0161\u00ed od sma\u017een\u00e9ho pe\u010diva z mouky a dro\u017ed\u00ed: tvar dr\u017e\u00ed p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm d\u00edky ml\u00e9ku, nikoli lepku, co\u017e mu d\u00e1v\u00e1 jedine\u010dnou konzistenci. Klasick\u00fdm z\u00e1kladem je khoya chikna (naz\u00fdvan\u00e1 tak\u00e9 hariyali nebo dhap). Jde o zahu\u0161t\u011bnou ml\u00e9\u010dnou hmotu s vysok\u00fdm obsahem vody, v\u00fdrazn\u011b vlh\u010d\u00ed ne\u017e batti nebo danedar, kter\u00e1 se hn\u011bte do hladk\u00e9ho t\u011bsta. (My pou\u017eijeme su\u0161en\u00e9 ml\u00e9ko.)\n\n\n\nVelmi mal\u00e9 mno\u017estv\u00ed mouky maida slou\u017e\u00ed pouze jako pojivo. V autentick\u00fdch verz\u00edch se mouky pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 minimum, \u010dasto v hmotnostn\u00edm pom\u011bru khoya k mouce maida p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b 4 : 1, aby v\u00fdsledn\u00e1 konzistence p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 nep\u0159ipom\u00ednala chl\u00e9b. Do t\u011bsta zalo\u017een\u00e9ho na mouce, jako je t\u011bsto na n\u011bkter\u00e9 americk\u00e9 l\u00edvance, m\u00e1 tedy daleko.\n\n\n\nA co takhle vyzkou\u0161et recept na ku\u0159e tikka masala? \n\n\n\nDochucen\u00ed z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 klasick\u00e9 a st\u0159\u00eddm\u00e9: zelen\u00fd kardamom, trocha \u0161afr\u00e1nu a p\u00e1r kapek r\u016f\u017eov\u00e9 vody, sp\u00ed\u0161e na z\u00e1v\u011bre\u010dn\u00e9 dolad\u011bn\u00ed ne\u017e jako dominantn\u00ed t\u00f3n. N\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed cukr\u00e1\u0159i vkl\u00e1daj\u00ed doprost\u0159ed trochu cukru mishri, sem\u00ednko kardamomu nebo kousek pist\u00e1cie. Podle nich to m\u016f\u017ee zabr\u00e1nit p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 tuh\u00e9mu st\u0159edu a podpo\u0159it vznik mal\u00e9 dutinky, v n\u00ed\u017e se zachyt\u00ed sirup. \n\n\n\nSirup b\u00fdv\u00e1 lehk\u00fd a vla\u017en\u00fd, aby pronikl tenkou sma\u017eenou k\u016frkou. Nen\u00ed ani hust\u00fd, ani vrouc\u00ed. Kyp\u0159idel se pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 minimum: v modern\u00edch kuchyn\u00edch \u0161petka pr\u00e1\u0161ku do pe\u010diva. \n\n\n\nV minulosti cukr\u00e1\u0159i vyu\u017e\u00edvali tak\u00e9 \u010di\u0161t\u011bnou pota\u0161 nebo ru\u010dn\u00ed provzdu\u0161\u0148ov\u00e1n\u00ed. \n\n\n\nP\u016fvod gulab jamun\n\n\n\nP\u0159\u00edbuzn\u00e9 pokrmy zmi\u0148ovaly u\u017e texty z Dek\u00e1nu. M\u0101nasoll\u0101sa z XII. stolet\u00ed (Annabhoga) popisuje j\u00eddla p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00edc\u00ed kulat\u00e1 sma\u017een\u00e1 ml\u00e9\u010dn\u00e1 sousta. Historikov\u00e9 spojuj\u00ed zejm\u00e9na K\u1e63\u012braprak\u0101ra s ran\u00fdmi podobami gulab jamun a beng\u00e1lsk\u00e9ho dezertu pantua. \n\n\n\nP\u0159ipravuje se zahu\u0161t\u011bn\u00edm ml\u00e9ka a n\u00e1sledn\u00fdm odd\u011blen\u00edm sra\u017eeniny, kter\u00e1 se nech\u00e1 okapat, osma\u017e\u00ed na gh\u00ed a namo\u010d\u00ed do sirupu. \n\n\n\nNa rozd\u00edl od arabsko-persk\u00e9ho luqmat al-qadi, \u0159\u00eddk\u00e9ho mou\u010dn\u00e9ho t\u011bsta kynut\u00e9ho dro\u017ed\u00edm, kter\u00e9 se lije do oleje a n\u00e1sledn\u011b nam\u00e1\u010d\u00ed do medu nebo sirupu provon\u011bn\u00e9ho r\u016f\u017eovou vodou, gulab jamun nespol\u00e9h\u00e1 na lepek. K. T. Achaya a pozd\u011bj\u0161\u00ed koment\u00e1to\u0159i zast\u00e1vali n\u00e1zor, \u017ee d\u00edky z\u00e1kladu z khoyi s minimem mouky jde o indickou sladkost m\u00edstn\u00edho p\u016fvodu, nikoli o p\u0159\u00edmo p\u0159evzat\u00fd persk\u00fd dezert.\n\n\n\nMughalov\u00e9 p\u0159inesli p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm vyt\u0159\u00edben\u011bj\u0161\u00ed paletu v\u016fn\u00ed. Kr\u00e1lovsk\u00e9 kuchyn\u011b st\u0159edov\u011bku a ran\u00e9ho novov\u011bku si vedle \u0161afr\u00e1nu, gh\u00ed a vysoce rozvinut\u00e9ho um\u011bn\u00ed zpracov\u00e1n\u00ed ml\u00e9ka cenily r\u016f\u017eov\u00e9 vody a kewry. Texty jako Nimatnama-i-Nasiruddin-Shahi z XVI. stolet\u00ed a Nuskha-e-Shahjahani ze XVII. stolet\u00ed dokl\u00e1daj\u00ed tento dvorsk\u00fd sv\u011bt v\u016fn\u00ed a ml\u00e9\u010dn\u00fdch pokrm\u016f, kter\u00fd pomohl ust\u00e1lit pozd\u011bj\u0161\u00ed podobu gulab jamun.\n\n\n\nDal\u0161\u00ed indick\u00e1 sladkost s gh\u00ed a kardamomem: krupicov\u00e1 halva\n\n\n\nDnes je tato sladkost hluboce zako\u0159en\u011bn\u00e1 ve sv\u00e1te\u010dn\u00edch zvyc\u00edch, zejm\u00e9na p\u0159i sv\u00e1tc\u00edch d\u00edv\u00e1l\u00ed, Gan\u00e9\u0161 \u010daturth\u00ed, \u00edd al-fitr a \u00edd al-adh\u00e1, a p\u0159i svatb\u00e1ch se pod\u00e1v\u00e1 do dlan\u011b, aby \u201eosladila \u00fasta\u201c, co\u017e je obrat vyjad\u0159uj\u00edc\u00ed \u0161\u0165astn\u00fd za\u010d\u00e1tek. V rozmanit\u00e9 indick\u00e9 kuchyni tak zauj\u00edm\u00e1 kl\u00ed\u010dov\u00e9 m\u00edsto. \n\n\n\nHlavn\u00ed suroviny na gulab jamun\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nKhoya chikna, naz\u00fdvan\u00e1 tak\u00e9 hariyali, je \u00fast\u0159edn\u00ed surovinou: jde o m\u011bkkou zahu\u0161t\u011bnou ml\u00e9\u010dnou hmotu s vysok\u00fdm obsahem vody, kterou lze uhn\u00edst v leskl\u00e9 t\u011bsto. Tato vlhkost se b\u011bhem sma\u017een\u00ed rychle m\u011bn\u00ed v p\u00e1ru, co\u017e pom\u00e1h\u00e1 vytv\u00e1\u0159et drobounk\u00e9 dutinky. Ty pak umo\u017e\u0148uj\u00ed sirupu proniknout a\u017e do st\u0159edu, m\u00edsto aby z\u016fstal na povrchu kolem such\u00e9ho vnit\u0159ku. My sm\u00edch\u00e1me ml\u00e9ko se su\u0161en\u00fdm ml\u00e9kem, abychom se pokusili dos\u00e1hnout podobn\u00e9ho v\u00fdsledku.\n\n\n\nChhena nebo pan\u00fdr v n\u011bkter\u00fdch tradi\u010dn\u00edch receptech dod\u00e1v\u00e1 sm\u011bsi dal\u0161\u00ed oporu. Kdy\u017e se do khoyi zapracuje dohladka, m\u016f\u017ee ji odleh\u010dit a zabr\u00e1nit p\u0159\u00edli\u0161n\u00e9 hutnosti. V\u00fdsledkem je jemn\u00fd vnit\u0159ek, kter\u00fd zadr\u017e\u00ed sirup, ani\u017e by se zbortil, a podobnou vl\u00e1\u010dnost najdete i u kokosov\u00fdch kuli\u010dek.\n\n\n\nMaida slou\u017e\u00ed jako pojivo, nikoli jako z\u00e1klad. Bez trochy lepku m\u016f\u017ee ml\u00e9\u010dn\u00e1 hmota v hork\u00e9m tuku popraskat; p\u0159i nadbytku mouky z\u00edsk\u00e1 vnit\u0159ek chlebovou konzistenci. Tradi\u010dn\u011b se j\u00ed pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 jen nezbytn\u00e9 minimum, \u010dasto v hmotnostn\u00edm pom\u011bru khoya k mouce maida p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b 4 : 1, aby si kuli\u010dka zachovala jemnou ml\u00e9\u010dnou konzistenci a p\u0159itom z\u016fstala cel\u00e1.\n\n\n\nKyp\u0159idla se pou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00ed st\u0159\u00eddm\u011b, aby byla v\u00fdsledn\u00e1 konzistence jemn\u00e1. Dne\u0161n\u00ed kucha\u0159i pou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00ed pr\u00e1\u0161ek do pe\u010diva; v minulosti cukr\u00e1\u0159i vyu\u017e\u00edvali \u010di\u0161t\u011bnou pota\u0161 nebo ru\u010dn\u00ed provzdu\u0161\u0148ov\u00e1n\u00ed, aby t\u011bsto m\u00edrn\u011b nabylo, ale uvnit\u0159 nebylo houbovit\u00e9.\n\n\n\nDesi gh\u00ed dod\u00e1v\u00e1 tradi\u010dn\u00ed v\u016fni a umo\u017e\u0148uje rovnom\u011brn\u00e9 sma\u017een\u00ed. Pomal\u00fdm sma\u017een\u00edm na gh\u00ed vznik\u00e1 tenk\u00e1, jemn\u00e1 k\u016frka, kterou sirup snadno pronikne. Neutr\u00e1ln\u00ed oleje jsou dnes b\u011b\u017enou n\u00e1hradou, chu\u0165 se s nimi ale vzdaluje klasick\u00e9 podob\u011b. Obecn\u00e9 rady ke sma\u017een\u00ed najdete tak\u00e9 v z\u00e1kladech dvojit\u00e9ho sma\u017een\u00ed, i kdy\u017e zde je postup jin\u00fd.\n\n\n\nCukrov\u00fd sirup (chashni) se udr\u017euje vla\u017en\u00fd a \u0159id\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e sirup va\u0159en\u00fd \u201ena nit\u201c, aby pronikal dovnit\u0159 a nezat\u011b\u017eoval povrch. Zelen\u00fd kardamom a \u0161afr\u00e1n mu dod\u00e1vaj\u00ed klasickou v\u016fni; p\u00e1r kapek citronov\u00e9 \u0161\u0165\u00e1vy zabr\u00e1n\u00ed op\u011btovn\u00e9 krystalizaci, ani\u017e by zm\u011bnilo jeho aroma.\n\n\n\nR\u016f\u017eov\u00e1 voda dod\u00e1v\u00e1 onu slo\u017eku \u201egulab\u201c. P\u0159i st\u0159\u00eddm\u00e9m pou\u017eit\u00ed (je opravdu velmi v\u00fdrazn\u00e1) pom\u016f\u017ee vyzdvihnout bohatou ml\u00e9\u010dnou chu\u0165, m\u00edsto aby ji p\u0159ekryla. \n\n\n\n\n\n\tAutentick\u00e9 gulab jamun\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\tSirup200 g cukru240 ml vody5 tobolek kardamomu1 l\u017e\u00edce citronov\u00e9 \u0161\u0165\u00e1vy\u0160afr\u00e1n (podle pot\u0159eby)R\u016f\u017eov\u00e1 voda (podle pot\u0159eby)T\u011bsto4 l\u017e\u00edce rostlinn\u00e9ho oleje6 l\u017eic b\u00edl\u00e9 mouky120 g su\u0161en\u00e9ho ml\u00e9ka (na pe\u010den\u00ed (plnotu\u010dn\u00e9ho))1 l\u017e\u00edce pr\u00e1\u0161ku do pe\u010diva120 ml ml\u00e9ka (plnotu\u010dn\u00e9ho)Sma\u017een\u00ed a zdoben\u00edRostlinn\u00fd olej (podle pot\u0159eby, na sma\u017een\u00ed)Strouhan\u00fd kokos nebo mlet\u00e9 pist\u00e1cie (na ozdobu)\t\n\t\n\t\tSirupV rendl\u00edku sm\u00edchejte cukr s vodou a zah\u0159\u00edvejte, dokud se cukr \u00fapln\u011b nerozpust\u00ed.Nem\u00edchejte kovovou l\u017e\u00edc\u00ed, aby sirup nezkrystalizoval.P\u0159idejte tobolky kardamomu a va\u0159te, dokud sirup neza\u010dne m\u00edrn\u011b houstnout.Podle chuti p\u0159idejte \u0161afr\u00e1n a r\u016f\u017eovou vodu a nechte sirup d\u00e1le houstnout.P\u0159idejte citronovou \u0161\u0165\u00e1vu a jemn\u011b prom\u00edchejte.Sirup odstavte z plotny a nechte \u00fapln\u011b vychladnout.T\u011bsto a tvarov\u00e1n\u00edV m\u00edse sm\u00edchejte mouku, rostlinn\u00fd olej a pr\u00e1\u0161ek do pe\u010diva.P\u0159idejte su\u0161en\u00e9 ml\u00e9ko a prom\u00edchejte.Postupn\u011b p\u0159il\u00e9vejte ml\u00e9ko, dokud se t\u011bsto nespoj\u00ed.T\u011bsto hn\u011b\u0165te asi minutu, pot\u00e9 tvarujte p\u011bkn\u011b kulat\u00e9 kuli\u010dky velikosti vla\u0161sk\u00e9ho o\u0159echu (opakujte, dokud nespot\u0159ebujete v\u0161echno t\u011bsto).Sma\u017een\u00ed, nam\u00e1\u010den\u00ed a pod\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00edV rendl\u00edku d\u016fkladn\u011b rozeh\u0159ejte olej na sma\u017een\u00ed.Kuli\u010dky vlo\u017ete do oleje a na m\u00edrn\u00e9m ohni pomalu sma\u017ete dozlatova.Kuli\u010dky vyjm\u011bte z oleje a ihned je pono\u0159te do vychladl\u00e9ho sirupu, aby ho nas\u00e1kly.Vyjm\u011bte ze sirupu, ozdobte strouhan\u00fdm kokosem nebo mlet\u00fdmi pist\u00e1ciemi a pod\u00e1vejte.\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\tDessertIndienne","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/197902","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=197902"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/197902\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/116487"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=197902"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=197902"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=197902"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}