{"id":197662,"title":"Studen\u00e9 ochazuke neboli rei ochazuke","modified":"2026-10-31T17:24:31+01:00","plain":"Dokonale osv\u011b\u017euj\u00edc\u00ed studen\u00e9 ochazuke: propl\u00e1chnut\u00e1 r\u00fd\u017ee, losos rozebran\u00fd na kousky, aromatick\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edsady a ledov\u011b vychlazen\u00e9 dashi s \u010dajem genmaicha, kter\u00fdm v\u0161e zalijete t\u011bsn\u011b p\u0159ed pod\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00edm.\n\n\n\nJe dusno, nikdo nem\u00e1 po\u0159\u00e1dn\u00fd hlad, a p\u0159esto miska r\u00fd\u017ee zalit\u00e1 ledov\u00fdm dashi zmiz\u00ed b\u011bhem n\u011bkolika minut. Rei ochazuke stav\u00ed na teplotn\u00edm \u0161oku: d\u016fkladn\u011b vychlazen\u00e1, odd\u011blen\u00e1 zrnka, tekutina tak studen\u00e1, a\u017e skoro \u0161t\u00edpe, a navrch solen\u00fd losos, z\u00e1zvor, shiso a \u0161petka wasabi. \n\n\n\nKa\u017ed\u00e9 sousto p\u0159in\u00e1\u0161\u00ed slanost a chu\u0165 mo\u0159e, kter\u00e9 tekutina vz\u00e1p\u011bt\u00ed zjemn\u00ed. Je to p\u0159esn\u011b ten druh j\u00eddla, kter\u00fd p\u0159iprav\u00edte bez velk\u00e9ho p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161len\u00ed a doj\u00edte d\u0159\u00edv, ne\u017e stihnete odlo\u017eit h\u016flky.\n\n\n\nDal\u0161\u00ed japonsk\u00e9 j\u00eddlo v misce, kter\u00e9 se pod\u00e1v\u00e1 po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b vychlazen\u00e9, oroshi soba\n\n\n\nCo je rei ochazuke?\n\n\n\nRei ochazuke je studen\u00e1 verze ochazuke, misky r\u00fd\u017ee zalit\u00e9 \u010dajem nebo jinou lehkou tekutinou. \u0158\u00edk\u00e1 se mu tak\u00e9 hiyashi chazuke. K zalit\u00ed m\u016f\u017ee poslou\u017eit m\u011bkk\u00e1 voda, zelen\u00fd \u010daj louhovan\u00fd za studena nebo vychlazen\u00e9 dashi, pokud chcete v\u00fdrazn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed umami. \n\n\n\nUva\u0159en\u00e1 r\u00fd\u017ee se p\u0159ed pod\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00edm propl\u00e1chne studenou vodou a pr\u00e1v\u011b d\u00edky tomuto kroku z\u016fstanou zrnka odd\u011blen\u00e1 a v\u00fdvar \u010dir\u00fd. Obloha mus\u00ed b\u00fdt chu\u0165ov\u011b v\u00fdrazn\u00e1, shiozake, umeboshi, nori, sezam, wasabi, proto\u017ee chlad a na\u0159ed\u011bn\u00ed v\u0161echny ostatn\u00ed chut\u011b otup\u00ed.\n\n\n\nSlovo ocha sv\u00e1d\u00ed k domn\u011bnce, \u017ee \u010daj je nezbytn\u00fd. Voda se v\u0161ak pou\u017e\u00edvala d\u00e1vno p\u0159ed n\u00edm a v Jamagat\u011b se tot\u00e9\u017e j\u00eddlo dodnes j\u00ed pod n\u00e1zvem mizumama, r\u00fd\u017ee jednodu\u0161e zalit\u00e1 studenou vodou.\n\n\n\nKdy\u017e z\u016fstaneme u studen\u00fdch j\u00eddel, zaru soba s om\u00e1\u010dkou tsuyu\n\n\n\nOd pal\u00e1cov\u00e9 lednice po l\u00e9ta v Jamagat\u011b\n\n\n\nP\u0159edch\u016fdcem tohoto pokrmu je mizumeshi, r\u00fd\u017ee v l\u00e9t\u011b zal\u00e9van\u00e1 studenou vodou, jej\u00edm\u017e zimn\u00edm prot\u011bj\u0161kem je yuzuke, r\u00fd\u017ee zvl\u00e1\u010dn\u011bn\u00e1 horkou vodou. V obdob\u00ed Heian va\u0159en\u00e1 r\u00fd\u017ee v d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00fdch n\u00e1dob\u00e1ch tvrdla a voda ji znovu \u010dinila po\u017eivatelnou: P\u0159\u00edb\u011bh prince Gend\u017eiho popisuje v jedn\u00e9 letn\u00ed sc\u00e9n\u011b misku takov\u00e9 r\u00fd\u017ee s ledem z pal\u00e1cov\u00e9 lednice. \n\n\n\nSb\u00edrky anekdot ze XIII.\u00a0stolet\u00ed vypr\u00e1v\u011bj\u00ed, \u017ee tento j\u00eddeln\u00ed\u010dek doporu\u010dili dvo\u0159anovi Sand\u017e\u00f3 \u010c\u00fanagonovi, aby zhubl, ale on jedl tolik, \u017ee p\u0159ibral.\n\n\n\n\u010caj p\u0159i\u0161el pozd\u011bji. Zhruba v polovin\u011b obdob\u00ed Edo u\u017e byly \u010daje sencha a bancha cenov\u011b dostupn\u00e9 a podniky chazukeya pod\u00e1valy tyto rychl\u00e9 misky pracuj\u00edc\u00edm a lidem ve sp\u011bchu vedle nudl\u00ed soba a prvn\u00edch forem sushi. \n\n\n\nZelenina nakl\u00e1dan\u00e1 ve slan\u00e9m n\u00e1levu, umeboshi a solen\u00e9 ryby se jako obloha prosadily proto, \u017ee byly levn\u00e9, dlouho vydr\u017eely a jejich chu\u0165 obst\u00e1la i v misce r\u00fd\u017ee zalit\u00e9 tekutinou.\n\n\n\nJamagata dala tomuto j\u00eddlu jeho nejprakti\u010dt\u011bj\u0161\u00ed podobu. M\u011bsto le\u017e\u00edc\u00ed v kotlin\u011b, kterou bi\u010duje f\u00e9n, dr\u017eelo v letech 1933 a\u017e 2007 japonsk\u00fd teplotn\u00ed rekord 40,8\u00a0\u00b0C. R\u00fd\u017ei z p\u0159edchoz\u00edho dne tu d\u016fkladn\u011b proplachovali a pak ji zal\u00e9vali ledovou vodou, n\u011bkdy p\u0159id\u00e1vali i kostky ledu. \n\n\n\nDom\u00e1c\u00ed tsukemono a miska je kompletn\u00ed\n\n\n\nJedla se se shiozake, tepeln\u011b neupraven\u00fdm misem, kva\u0161enou zeleninou nebo jamagatsk\u00fdm dashi, letn\u00ed sm\u011bs\u00ed nadrobno nasekan\u00e9 okurky, lilku, my\u014dga a shiso. Odtud vych\u00e1zej\u00ed i dne\u0161n\u00ed po\u017eadavky, odd\u011blen\u00e1 zrnka, opravdu studen\u00e1 tekutina a obloha dostate\u010dn\u011b slan\u00e1, aby si zachovala chu\u0165 i po na\u0159ed\u011bn\u00ed.\n\n\n\nHlavn\u00ed suroviny na rei ochazuke\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nZ\u00e1kladem je japonsk\u00e1 kr\u00e1tkozrnn\u00e1 r\u00fd\u017ee, kulat\u00e1 a soudr\u017en\u00e1, m\u011bkk\u00e1, ale nerozpadav\u00e1. Propl\u00e1chnut\u00edm uva\u0159en\u00e9 r\u00fd\u017ee se odstran\u00ed numeri, lepkav\u00fd \u0161krob na povrchu, a pr\u00e1v\u011b tento krok rozhoduje o v\u0161em: o odd\u011blen\u00fdch zrnk\u00e1ch na jedn\u00e9 stran\u011b a \u010dir\u00e9 tekutin\u011b na stran\u011b druh\u00e9. Z tekutin se nejd\u00e9le pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 m\u011bkk\u00e1 voda, kter\u00e1 nech\u00e1v\u00e1 vyniknout sladkosti r\u00fd\u017ee, sencha dod\u00e1v\u00e1 sv\u00edravost, h\u014djicha pra\u017een\u00e9 t\u00f3ny a dashi z kombu a katsuobushi vytv\u00e1\u0159\u00ed nejv\u00fd\u017eivn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed variantu.\n\n\n\nSlanost p\u0159in\u00e1\u0161\u00ed obloha. Shiozake, losos nasolen\u00fd sol\u00ed v mno\u017estv\u00ed 3 a\u017e 5 % hmotnosti ryby, dod\u00e1v\u00e1 tuk a umami. Umeboshi rozma\u010dkan\u00e9 do r\u00fd\u017ee p\u0159id\u00e1v\u00e1 kyselost, kter\u00e1 v dusnu znovu povzbud\u00ed chu\u0165 k j\u00eddlu. Jamagatsk\u00e9 dashi pln\u00ed stejnou \u00falohu v zeleninov\u00e9 podob\u011b, nadrobno nasekan\u00e1 okurka, lilek, my\u014dga a shiso, ochucen\u00e9 trochou s\u00f3jov\u00e9 om\u00e1\u010dky.\n\n\n\nZbytek je ot\u00e1zkou textury a v\u016fn\u011b. Nori, jarn\u00ed cibulka a mitsuba dod\u00e1vaj\u00ed mo\u0159sk\u00e9 a bylinn\u00e9 t\u00f3ny, pra\u017een\u00fd sezam o\u0159\u00ed\u0161kovou chu\u0165 a wasabi kr\u00e1tk\u00fd z\u00e1van \u0161tiplavosti. Bubu arare, drobounk\u00e9 kuli\u010dky pra\u017een\u00e9 r\u00fd\u017ee, jsou pozn\u00e1vac\u00edm znamen\u00edm modern\u00edch verz\u00ed. Po zalit\u00ed studenou tekutinou z\u016fst\u00e1vaj\u00ed chv\u00edli k\u0159upav\u00e9, ne\u017e zm\u011bknou.\n\n\n\nZ\u00e1sady p\u0159\u00edpravy dobr\u00e9ho rei ochazuke\n\n\n\nRozhoduj\u00edc\u00ed nen\u00ed volba mezi \u010dajem a vodou, ale propl\u00e1chnut\u00ed: bez n\u011bj se tekutina zakal\u00ed a zhoustne, m\u00edsto aby z\u016fstala \u0159\u00eddk\u00e1. R\u00fd\u017ei vyta\u017eenou z lednice neproplachujte rovnou, kv\u016fli retrogradaci \u0161krobu by zrnka byla such\u00e1 a zrnit\u00e1. Nejprve ji oh\u0159ejte tak, aby se z n\u00ed kou\u0159ilo, a pak ji propl\u00e1chn\u011bte studenou vodou. Pou\u017e\u00edvejte pouze va\u0159enou r\u00fd\u017ei, kterou jste rychle zchladili a spr\u00e1vn\u011b skladovali, proto\u017ee u zapomenut\u00e9 r\u00fd\u017ee p\u0159edstavuje Bacillus cereus skute\u010dn\u00e9 riziko. \n\n\n\nM\u00e1te chu\u0165 na dal\u0161\u00ed letn\u00ed klasiku? Hiyashi chuka\n\n\n\nTekutinu pod\u00e1vejte p\u0159i teplot\u011b 5 a\u017e 12\u00a0\u00b0C, volte v\u00fdraznou oblohu a pro k\u0159upavost p\u0159idejte bubu arare, jinak z misky z\u016fstane jen r\u00fd\u017eov\u00e1 voda. Kostky ledu z dashi jsou nov\u011bj\u0161\u00ed vychyt\u00e1vkou, praktickou p\u0159i pou\u017eit\u00ed tepl\u00e9 r\u00fd\u017ee, ale z \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 tradice nevych\u00e1zej\u00ed.\n\n\n\n\n\n\tAutentick\u00e9 rei ochazuke\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\tLosos a r\u00fd\u017ee2 filety ze solen\u00e9ho lososa (ogrilovan\u00e9 a vychladl\u00e9 (p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b uzen\u00fd losos, ogrilovan\u00fd))4 porce va\u0159en\u00e9 r\u00fd\u017ee (studen\u00e9 (nejl\u00e9pe z p\u0159edchoz\u00edho dne))Aromatick\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edsady (yakumi)1 mal\u00fd kousek z\u00e1zvoru (najemno nasekan\u00fd)2 myoga (najemno nasekan\u00e9 (voliteln\u00e9))8 list\u016f shiso (najemno nasekan\u00fdch)pa\u017eitka (najemno nasekan\u00e1, podle chuti)sezam (lehce opra\u017een\u00fd)0.25 pl\u00e1tku \u0159asy nori (natrhan\u00e9ho na kousky)wasabi (podle chuti)Dashi s \u010dajem genmaicha200 ml dashi1 hrst \u010daje genmaicha (\u010daj s pra\u017eenou hn\u011bdou r\u00fd\u017e\u00ed)s\u016fl (podle chuti)s\u00f3jov\u00e1 om\u00e1\u010dka (podle chuti)mentsuyu (voliteln\u00e9, podle chuti)\t\n\t\n\t\tP\u0159\u00edprava lososaZ grilovan\u00e9ho lososa podle pot\u0159eby odstra\u0148te k\u016f\u017ei a kosti, pot\u00e9 ho rozd\u011blte na v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed kousky.P\u0159\u00edprava dashi s \u010dajem genmaichaDo hork\u00e9ho dashi p\u0159idejte \u010daj genmaicha. Jakmile se \u010daj rozvon\u00ed, p\u0159ece\u010fte.Dochu\u0165te sol\u00ed a s\u00f3jovou om\u00e1\u010dkou, nechte vychladnout a pot\u00e9 dejte do lednice, dokud nebude dashi ledov\u011b studen\u00e9.Dokon\u010den\u00edStudenou r\u00fd\u017ei kr\u00e1tce propl\u00e1chn\u011bte pod tekouc\u00ed vodou a nechte ji d\u016fkladn\u011b okapat. Rozd\u011blte do misek.Navrch rozlo\u017ete lososa a aromatick\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edsady a zalijte dob\u0159e vychlazen\u00fdm dashi. P\u0159i pod\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed p\u0159idejte podle chuti mentsuyu.\t\n\t\n\t\tPropl\u00e1chnut\u00edm studen\u00e9 r\u00fd\u017ee (nebo r\u00fd\u017ee z p\u0159edchoz\u00edho dne) pod tekouc\u00ed vodou odstran\u00edte lepiv\u00fd \u0161krob a z\u00edsk\u00e1te lehkou, sypkou strukturu (\u201esarasara\u201c), kter\u00e1 je pro poveden\u00e9 studen\u00e9 ochazuke z\u00e1sadn\u00ed.\nDashi mus\u00ed b\u00fdt p\u0159ed zalit\u00edm ledov\u011b studen\u00e9: m\u016f\u017eete ho p\u0159ipravit o n\u011bco siln\u011bj\u0161\u00ed a p\u0159idat led, aby bylo p\u0159i pod\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b vychlazen\u00e9.\n\t\n\t\n\t\tPlat principalJaponaise","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/197662","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=197662"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/197662\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/163805"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=197662"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=197662"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=197662"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}