{"id":197400,"title":"Tom saap, kysel\u00e1 a p\u00e1liv\u00e1 pol\u00e9vka z Isanu","modified":"2026-10-31T17:19:15+01:00","plain":"Vo\u0148av\u00e1 a pikantn\u00ed thajsk\u00e1 pol\u00e9vka Tom Saap, v n\u00ed\u017e se pomalu ta\u017een\u00fd vep\u0159ov\u00fd v\u00fdvar snoub\u00ed s pastou z nasucho ope\u010den\u00fdch bylinek, limetkou a chilli vlo\u010dkami.\n\n\n\nVyslovte v is\u00e1nsk\u00e9m n\u00e1\u0159e\u010d\u00ed saap a hned je jasno: to slovo znamen\u00e1 prost\u011b \u201elahodn\u00fd\u201c. P\u0159idejte jemn\u011b zn\u011bj\u00edc\u00ed sloveso tom (\u201eva\u0159it\u201c). Vznikne Tom Saap, miska pol\u00e9vky s tak v\u00fdraznou v\u016fn\u00ed, \u017ee v n\u00ed jako na tal\u00ed\u0159i najdete celou podstatu severov\u00fdchodn\u00edho Thajska. \n\n\n\nPol\u00e9vka tom yum si vydobyla m\u00edsto na pohlednic\u00edch i j\u00eddeln\u00edch l\u00edstc\u00edch zahrani\u010dn\u00edch restaurac\u00ed. M\u00e9n\u011b zn\u00e1m\u00e1 Tom Saap si zachov\u00e1v\u00e1 nezam\u011bniteln\u00fd severov\u00fdchodn\u00ed r\u00e1z, p\u0159esto\u017ee u\u017e dobyla Bangkok i \u0159adu zahrani\u010dn\u00edch metropol\u00ed. \n\n\n\nLahodn\u00e1 pol\u00e9vka tom yum\n\n\n\nJe to \u010dir\u00fd v\u00fdvar s \u0159\u00edzn\u00fdm charakterem, provon\u011bn\u00fd citronovou tr\u00e1vou, galg\u00e1nem, listy kafrov\u00e9 limety, ope\u010den\u00fdmi chilli papri\u010dkami a pr\u00e1\u0161kem z pra\u017een\u00e9 r\u00fd\u017ee s o\u0159\u00ed\u0161kov\u00fdm n\u00e1dechem.\n\n\n\nOd ohni\u0161\u0165 u r\u00fd\u017eov\u00fdch pol\u00ed do m\u011bstsk\u00fdch ulic: p\u016fvod a kulturn\u00ed souvislosti\n\n\n\nTom Saap se zrodila tam, kde r\u00fd\u017eov\u00e1 pole p\u0159ech\u00e1zej\u00ed v hust\u00fd les: d\u016fmysln\u00e1 venkovsk\u00e1 pol\u00e9vka, kter\u00e1 dok\u00e1zala prom\u011bnit tuh\u00e9 kousky hov\u011bz\u00edho, vnit\u0159nosti i cokoli dal\u0161\u00edho, co se ocitlo v hrnci, v m\u011bkk\u00e1 sousta. \n\n\n\nPrvn\u00ed v\u00fdvary pomalu probubl\u00e1valy nad ohn\u011bm ze d\u0159eva; z kost\u00ed se uvol\u0148oval kolagen a kravsk\u00e1 \u017elu\u010d, cen\u011bn\u00e1 pro svou v\u00fdraznou ho\u0159kost, dod\u00e1vala chuti dal\u0161\u00ed rozm\u011br. M\u00edstn\u00ed kucha\u0159i dodnes cituj\u00ed star\u00e9 r\u010den\u00ed: nen\u00ed ho\u0159k\u00e9, nen\u00ed lahodn\u00e9 \u2013 nen\u00ed ho\u0159k\u00e9, nen\u00ed lahodn\u00e9 \u2013 \u201epokud to nen\u00ed ho\u0159k\u00e9, nen\u00ed to lahodn\u00e9\u201c.\n\n\n\nNa konci XX. stolet\u00ed m\u00ed\u0159ily vlny d\u011bln\u00edk\u016f z Is\u00e1nu vlaky t\u0159et\u00ed t\u0159\u00eddy na bangkock\u00e1 staveni\u0161t\u011b a sv\u00e9 obl\u00edben\u00e9 chut\u011b si vezly v j\u00eddlonosi\u010d\u00edch. Pouli\u010dn\u00ed prodejci je n\u00e1sledovali a hov\u011bz\u00ed vnit\u0159nosti nahradili obl\u00edben\u011bj\u0161\u00edmi vep\u0159ov\u00fdmi \u017eeb\u00edrky, p\u0159itom v\u0161ak zachovali bylinn\u00fd aromatick\u00fd z\u00e1klad. \n\n\n\nRad\u011bji restovan\u00e9 maso ne\u017e pol\u00e9vku? Zkuste Phat phet\n\n\n\nVe\u010der co ve\u010der zahalovaly misky Tom Saap p\u00e1rou plastov\u00e9 stoly p\u0159ed pivn\u00edmi v\u011b\u017eemi a upev\u0148ovaly pov\u011bst pol\u00e9vky jako dokonal\u00e9ho gap glaem (n\u011b\u010deho k zakousnut\u00ed k pit\u00ed): j\u00eddla, u kter\u00e9ho koluj\u00ed ko\u0161\u00ed\u010dky lepkav\u00e9 r\u00fd\u017ee stejn\u011b \u010dile jako klepy. Dnes sta\u010d\u00ed prohl\u00e9dnout si j\u00eddeln\u00ed l\u00edstky ve m\u011bstech od Singapuru po Stockholm a m\u016f\u017eete sledovat tyto migra\u010dn\u00ed cesty: ka\u017ed\u00e1 miska st\u00e1le mluv\u00ed plynn\u011b is\u00e1nsky, i kdy\u017e se jej\u00ed p\u0159\u00edzvuk v zahrani\u010d\u00ed zjem\u0148uje.\n\n\n\nCo je vlastn\u011b prav\u00e1 Tom Saap?\n\n\n\nZ autentick\u00e9 Tom Saap nejprve zavon\u00ed citronov\u00e1 tr\u00e1va, pak \u010dist\u00fd prysky\u0159i\u010dn\u00fd t\u00f3n galg\u00e1nu a nakonec pronikav\u00e1 citrusov\u00e1 v\u016fn\u011b list\u016f kafrov\u00e9 limety. Pokud n\u011bkter\u00e1 z t\u011bchto slo\u017eek chyb\u00ed, cel\u00e1 souhra se rozpad\u00e1. \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHloubku chuti dod\u00e1v\u00e1 v\u00fdvar z kost\u00ed (vep\u0159ov\u00fdch \u017eeb\u00edrek nebo hov\u011bz\u00ed kli\u017eky s kost\u00ed), lehce zast\u0159en\u00fd kolagenem, nikdy kokosov\u00fdm ml\u00e9kem. Po vypnut\u00ed ohn\u011b plave na hladin\u011b hrst dlouh\u00e9ho koriandru (m\u00e1\u010dky smrdut\u00e9) a nakr\u00e1jen\u00e9 cibule zimn\u00ed (o\u0161lejchu); \u201eklasick\u00fd\u201c koriandr je tu jen hostem z centr\u00e1ln\u00edho Thajska. \n\n\n\nChilli p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed ke slovu ve dvou kl\u00ed\u010dov\u00fdch chv\u00edl\u00edch: nejprve se p\u0159idaj\u00ed vlo\u010dky z ope\u010den\u00fdch chilli papri\u010dek s kou\u0159ov\u00fdm aroma, t\u011bsn\u011b p\u0159ed pod\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00edm pak rozdrcen\u00e9 chilli papri\u010dky pta\u010d\u00ed oko. Nakonec p\u0159ijde typick\u00fd region\u00e1ln\u00ed podpis, l\u017e\u00edce pr\u00e1\u0161ku z pra\u017een\u00e9 r\u00fd\u017ee, kter\u00e1 dod\u00e1 v\u016fni t\u00e1bor\u00e1ku a lehce zrnitou strukturu ulp\u00edvaj\u00edc\u00ed na rtech.\n\n\n\nRovnov\u00e1ha p\u00e1livosti a kyselosti s n\u00e1znakem ho\u0159kosti\n\n\n\nU misky prav\u00e9 Tom Saap se v\u00e1m na sp\u00e1nc\u00edch objev\u00ed kr\u016fp\u011bje potu, zat\u00edmco limetka v\u00e1s \u0161t\u00edpne a\u017e vzadu u \u010delist\u00ed. Tamarindov\u00e1 du\u017eina se va\u0159\u00ed spolu s kostmi a dod\u00e1v\u00e1 zakulacenou, t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 ovocnou kyselost, kter\u00e1 dok\u00e1\u017ee vyv\u00e1\u017eit p\u00e1livost. \n\n\n\nRyb\u00ed om\u00e1\u010dka se postar\u00e1 o slanost; trocha glutam\u00e1tu nebo fermentovan\u00e9 pla ra pos\u00edl\u00ed umami a cukr z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 v pozad\u00ed, pokud se v\u016fbec p\u0159id\u00e1v\u00e1. Hov\u011bz\u00ed verze si n\u011bkdy st\u00e1le pohr\u00e1vaj\u00ed s tradi\u010dn\u00ed ho\u0159kost\u00ed (kravskou \u017elu\u010d\u00ed nebo bylinnou tr\u00e1veninou zvanou khee pia), jde v\u0161ak o dopl\u0148kov\u00e9 t\u00f3ny, nikoli povinn\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edsady. \n\n\n\nNepr\u016fhledn\u00fd v\u00fdvar nebo p\u00e1livost jen na p\u0159\u00e1n\u00ed prozrazuj\u00ed napodobeninu: v\u00fdrazn\u00e1 sladkost, kokosov\u00fd kr\u00e9m \u010di pr\u016fmyslov\u011b vyr\u00e1b\u011bn\u00e1 pasta tom yum znamenaj\u00ed, \u017ee u\u017e nem\u00e1te p\u0159ed sebou Tom Saap.\n\n\n\nR\u016fzn\u00e9 region\u00e1ln\u00ed podoby Tom Saap\n\n\n\nP\u016fvodn\u00ed verze, Tom Saap Neua, si zachov\u00e1v\u00e1 hov\u011bz\u00ed kosti, trochu dr\u0161t\u011bk a v\u011bnec l\u00edstk\u016f m\u00e1ty, kter\u00fd m\u00edrn\u00ed zv\u011b\u0159inov\u00fd t\u00f3n. Bangkock\u00fd mil\u00e1\u010dek, Tom Saap Kraduk Moo, s\u00e1z\u00ed na vep\u0159ov\u00e1 \u017eeb\u00edrka tak m\u011bkk\u00e1, \u017ee maso odpad\u00e1v\u00e1 od kost\u00ed p\u0159i prvn\u00edm soustu. \n\n\n\nO pad see ew na webu moc \u010dasto nep\u00ed\u0161u, tak tady ho m\u00e1te jako d\u00e1rek\n\n\n\nObjednejte si Leng Saap a z kuchyn\u011b v\u00e1m p\u0159inesou v\u011b\u017e z vep\u0159ov\u00e9 p\u00e1te\u0159e zalitou stejn\u00fdm v\u00fdvarem, s chilli papri\u010dkami zachycen\u00fdmi na obratlech jako konfety po pr\u016fvodu. Dom\u00e1c\u00ed kucha\u0159i tento z\u00e1klad rozv\u00edjej\u00ed d\u00e1l: ku\u0159ec\u00ed k\u0159\u00eddla v Melbourne, sumec s koprem v Khon Kaenu, nebo dokonce 100 % houbov\u00e9 verze pro vegetari\u00e1nsk\u00e9 hosty. \n\n\n\nKa\u017ed\u00e1 varianta si p\u0159esto zachov\u00e1v\u00e1 dva z\u00e1kladn\u00ed pil\u00ed\u0159e, \u010dirost a chu\u0165ov\u00fd \u00fader. Na diskusn\u00edch f\u00f3rech se porovn\u00e1v\u00e1 glutam\u00e1t sodn\u00fd (MSG) s dvan\u00e1ctihodinov\u00fdm v\u00fdvarem z kost\u00ed, \u0159e\u0161\u00ed se dostupnost dlouh\u00e9ho koriandru v Minnesot\u011b nebo to, zda v nouzi poslou\u017e\u00ed mlet\u00fd galg\u00e1n (shoda panuje na tom, \u017ee: sotva). V\u0161ichni se v\u0161ak shoduj\u00ed na tom podstatn\u00e9m: \u010dir\u00fd v\u00fdvar, pra\u017een\u00e1 r\u00fd\u017ee a kyselost, p\u0159i n\u00ed\u017e bez p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161len\u00ed pok\u00fdvnete hlavou a pronesete \u201elahodn\u00e9\u201c.\n\n\n\nNab\u00eddnout n\u011bkomu misku tohoto j\u00eddla znamen\u00e1 naplnit region\u00e1ln\u00ed kr\u00e9do \u201epod\u011blte se o lahodnou chu\u0165\u201c, sd\u00edlejte lahodnou chu\u0165, a nechat kolem stolu kolovat chut\u011b i p\u0159\u00e1telskou pohodu. Venkovsk\u00e1, a p\u0159itom vyt\u0159\u00edben\u00e1 pol\u00e9vka vrstv\u00ed citrusy a kou\u0159, pot a \u00fat\u011bchu, poln\u00ed cesty a m\u011bstsk\u00e9 neony. \n\n\n\nA\u0165 u\u017e p\u00e1ra von\u00edc\u00ed citronovou tr\u00e1vou\u2013limetkou stoup\u00e1 z kotle na no\u010dn\u00edm trhu v Khon Kaenu, nebo z va\u0161eho vlastn\u00edho hrnce, vyb\u00edz\u00ed k dal\u0161\u00edmu pono\u0159en\u00ed l\u017e\u00edce a pak k tich\u00e9mu vydechnut\u00ed slov opravdu lahodn\u00e9 \u2013 \u201elahodn\u00e9, opravdu\u201c.\n\n\n\n\n\n\tAutentick\u00e1 Tom Saap - kysel\u00e1 a p\u00e1liv\u00e1 pol\u00e9vka z Is\u00e1nu\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t500 g kousk\u016f vep\u0159ov\u00fdch chrupavek (konce \u017eeber, p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b pou\u017eijte vep\u0159ov\u00e1 \u017eeb\u00edrka, mal\u00e9 kousky s chrupavkou, drobn\u00fdmi kostmi, ...)3 litry vody1 l\u017e\u00edce vyzr\u00e1l\u00e9ho galg\u00e1nu (najemno nasekan\u00e9ho, nasucho opra\u017een\u00e9ho)2 l\u017e\u00edce citronov\u00e9 tr\u00e1vy (najemno nakr\u00e1jen\u00e9, nasucho opra\u017een\u00e9)4 \u0161alotky (nakr\u00e1jen\u00e9 na tenk\u00e9 pl\u00e1tky, nasucho opra\u017een\u00e9)2 listy kafrov\u00e9 limetky (najemno nakr\u00e1jen\u00e9, nasucho opra\u017een\u00e9)3 ko\u0159\u00ednky koriandru (nasekan\u00e9, lze nahradit stonky bez list\u016f, nasucho opra\u017een\u00e9)2 strou\u017eky \u010desneku nakl\u00e1dan\u00e9ho v oct\u011b (lehce rozdrcen\u00e9, voliteln\u00e9)1 l\u017ei\u010dka kandysov\u00e9ho cukru2 l\u017ei\u010dky soli6 l\u017eic ryb\u00ed om\u00e1\u010dky4 l\u017e\u00edce ku\u0159ec\u00edch prsou (mlet\u00fdch (mlet\u00e9 maso, ne nakr\u00e1jen\u00e9 na tenk\u00e9 pl\u00e1tky))4 l\u017e\u00edce limetkov\u00e9 \u0161\u0165\u00e1vy (\u010derstv\u00e9)1 l\u017e\u00edce chilli vlo\u010dek (opra\u017een\u00fdch)2 l\u017e\u00edce pra\u017een\u00e9 r\u00fd\u017ee rozemlet\u00e9 na pr\u00e1\u0161ek (lze p\u0159ipravit doma nebo koupit v asijsk\u00e9m supermarketu)1 hrst jarn\u00edch cibulek (nakr\u00e1jen\u00fdch najemno)1 hrst kulantrov\u00fdch list\u016f (nakr\u00e1jen\u00fdch najemno)1 hrst list\u016f thajsk\u00e9 bazalkyvrcholky bazalky (nav\u00edc na ozdobu)\t\n\t\n\t\tP\u0159ive\u010fte vodu k prudk\u00e9mu varu, p\u0159idejte vep\u0159ov\u00e9 chrupavky, st\u00e1hn\u011bte plamen a nechte zvolna probubl\u00e1vat p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b 1 hodinu dom\u011bkka.Mezit\u00edm na p\u00e1nvi na m\u00edrn\u00e9m ohni nasucho opra\u017ete galg\u00e1n, citronovou tr\u00e1vu, \u0161alotky, listy kafrov\u00e9 limetky a ko\u0159\u00ednky koriandru, dokud se nerozvon\u00ed, a pot\u00e9 v\u0161e utlu\u010dte na jemnou pastu.Polovinu v\u00fdvaru a chrupavek p\u0159endejte do men\u0161\u00edho hrnce, vm\u00edchejte polovinu pasty, jeden rozdrcen\u00fd strou\u017eek \u010desneku, kandysov\u00fd cukr, s\u016fl a ryb\u00ed om\u00e1\u010dku.Odeberte trochu hork\u00e9ho v\u00fdvaru do misky s mlet\u00fdmi ku\u0159ec\u00edmi prsy, maso rozma\u010dkejte l\u017e\u00edc\u00ed, aby se dob\u0159e rozpt\u00fdlilo, a pot\u00e9 sm\u011bs nalijte zp\u011bt do hrnce.Dochu\u0165te limetkovou \u0161\u0165\u00e1vou, opra\u017een\u00fdmi chilli vlo\u010dkami a pra\u017eenou r\u00fd\u017e\u00ed rozemletou na pr\u00e1\u0161ek, p\u0159idejte jarn\u00ed cibulky, kulantro a listy bazalky a pot\u00e9 vypn\u011bte plot\u00fdnku.Nalijte pol\u00e9vku do serv\u00edrovac\u00ed misky, ozdobte mlad\u00fdmi vrcholky bazalky a pod\u00e1vejte horkou.\t\n\t\n\t\t\nSm\u011bs s mlet\u00fdm ku\u0159ec\u00edm masem pol\u00e9vku zakal\u00ed a dod\u00e1 j\u00ed lehce kr\u00e9mov\u00fd vzhled, kter\u00fd je v is\u00e1nsk\u00fdch restaurac\u00edch \u017e\u00e1douc\u00ed (nam khon).\nProto\u017ee podle receptu p\u0159iprav\u00edte dvojn\u00e1sobn\u00e9 mno\u017estv\u00ed bylinkov\u00e9 pasty a dochucovadel, zbytek m\u016f\u017eete pou\u017e\u00edt na druh\u00fd hrnec pol\u00e9vky.\nPo p\u0159id\u00e1n\u00ed limetkov\u00e9 \u0161\u0165\u00e1vy udr\u017eujte m\u00edrn\u00fd ohe\u0148, prudk\u00fd var potla\u010duje sv\u011b\u017e\u00ed citrusovou v\u016fni.\n\n\t\n\t\n\t\tPlat principal, Soupes et bouillonsTha\u00eflandaise","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/197400","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=197400"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/197400\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/93146"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=197400"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=197400"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=197400"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}