{"id":196432,"title":"Laksa, ko\u0159en\u011bn\u00e1 nudlov\u00e1 pol\u00e9vka","modified":"2026-10-31T16:54:53+01:00","plain":"Pikantn\u00ed kokosov\u00fd v\u00fdvar s krevetami, ku\u0159ec\u00edm masem, r\u00fd\u017eov\u00fdmi nudlemi a \u010derstv\u00fdmi bylinkami tvo\u0159\u00ed sytou a vo\u0148avou laksu.\n\n\n\nTo prvn\u00ed, \u010deho si v\u0161imnete, je v\u016fn\u011b. Kokosov\u00e1 smetana se rozvon\u00ed v p\u00e1liv\u00e9 p\u00e1\u0159e, kter\u00e1 se vine nad hrnci v j\u00eddeln\u00ed z\u00f3n\u011b v Kuala Lumpuru. \n\n\n\nPo prvn\u00ed l\u017e\u00edci se odhal\u00ed tich\u00e9 poselstv\u00ed tohoto pokrmu: laksa lemak je \u201ejedna miska, mnoho kultur\u201c, pol\u00e9vka, kter\u00e1 v sametov\u011b hebk\u00e9 podob\u011b spojuje stalet\u00ed migrace, s\u0148atk\u016f a n\u00e1mo\u0159n\u00edho obchodu. \n\n\n\nObjevte tak\u00e9 malajsijsk\u00fd bak kut teh\n\n\n\nAbychom ji dok\u00e1zali pln\u011b ocenit, vyd\u00e1me se zp\u011bt k pr\u016fliv\u016fm, kde vznikla. Nahl\u00e9dneme k ml\u00fdnku na ko\u0159en\u00ed, kter\u00e9 j\u00ed dod\u00e1v\u00e1 plnost, porovn\u00e1me z\u00e1sady zast\u00e1nc\u016f tradice s modern\u00ed volnost\u00ed a pak ji ochutn\u00e1me, dokud nudle je\u0161t\u011b vr\u017eou mezi h\u016flkami.\n\n\n\nMalajsijsk\u00e9 sma\u017een\u00e9 vep\u0159ov\u00e9 \n\n\n\nP\u016fvod & kultura\n\n\n\nP\u0159\u00edb\u011bh laksy za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 u Peranakan\u016f, potomk\u016f \u010d\u00ednsk\u00fdch obchodn\u00edk\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed se p\u0159ed n\u011bkolika stalet\u00edmi usadili na Malajsk\u00e9m poloostrov\u011b a \u017eenili se s m\u00edstn\u00edmi \u017eenami. V jejich kuchyn\u00edch se \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9 nudlov\u00e9 pol\u00e9vky propojily s malajsk\u00fdmi ko\u0159enic\u00edmi pastami a daly vzniknout nov\u00e9, v\u00fdrazn\u011b vo\u0148av\u00e9 klasice.\n\n\n\nP\u0159\u00edstavn\u00ed m\u011bsta jako Malakka a Penang obsah misky d\u00e1le obohacovala: podle n\u011bkter\u00fdch \u00fastn\u011b p\u0159ed\u00e1van\u00fdch tradic p\u0159inesly d\u00e1vn\u00e9 n\u00e1mo\u0159n\u00ed cesty tak\u00e9 ko\u0159en\u00ed, nap\u0159\u00edklad sko\u0159ici nebo h\u0159eb\u00ed\u010dek. \n\n\n\nMezit\u00edm z pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed Bornea p\u0159ich\u00e1zely cel\u00e9 pytle su\u0161en\u00fdch krevet. \u010casem se pol\u00e9vka ust\u00e1lila pod spole\u010dn\u00fdm n\u00e1zvem, podle regionu se j\u00ed \u0159\u00edkalo laksa lemak nebo curry laksa, jej\u00ed du\u0161e v\u0161ak z\u016fstala nezam\u011bniteln\u00e1. \n\n\n\nDnes slou\u017e\u00ed jako sn\u00eddan\u011b ve v\u0161edn\u00ed dny, \u00fat\u011bcha b\u011bhem monzun\u016f i rozhoduj\u00edc\u00ed zkou\u0161ka pouli\u010dn\u00edch st\u00e1nk\u016f; pokud p\u0159ed st\u00e1nkem nestoj\u00ed dlouh\u00e1 fronta, znalci pokra\u010duj\u00ed d\u00e1l.\n\n\n\nCo se skr\u00fdv\u00e1 v misce\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nRempah je srdcem pokrmu: cihlov\u011b \u010derven\u00e1 ko\u0159enic\u00ed pasta, kter\u00e1 p\u0159i styku s hork\u00fdm olejem zaprask\u00e1. Cibule (nebo velk\u00e9 \u201eban\u00e1nov\u00e9\u201c \u0161alotky) a \u010desnek j\u00ed dod\u00e1vaj\u00ed nasl\u00e1dlost, zat\u00edmco kousky \u010derstv\u00e9 kurkumy a galg\u00e1nu velk\u00e9 jako palec uvol\u0148uj\u00ed svou z\u00e1zvorov\u011b h\u0159ejivou chu\u0165. \n\n\n\n\u010cty\u0159i rozm\u00e1\u010dknut\u00e9 stonky citronov\u00e9 tr\u00e1vy p\u0159in\u00e1\u0161ej\u00ed citrusov\u00fd n\u00e1dech; belacan (fermentovan\u00e9 krevety) dod\u00e1v\u00e1 zemitou hloubku; p\u011bt o\u0159ech\u016f kukui (nebo p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b makadamov\u00fdch) se ve sm\u011bsi rozm\u011bln\u00ed a je\u0161t\u011b v\u00edce ji zjemn\u00ed. Pastu restujte, dokud se olej nezbarv\u00ed do oran\u017eova a nerozvon\u00ed celou kuchyni.\n\n\n\nV\u00fdvar z\u00edsk\u00e1v\u00e1 v\u00fdrazn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed chu\u0165 d\u00edky dvojit\u00e9mu z\u00e1kladu: krun\u00fd\u0159e krevet zvolna va\u0159\u00edme ve vod\u011b a vznikl\u00fd v\u00fdvar pak pos\u00edl\u00edme n\u011bkolika kostkami dr\u016fbe\u017e\u00edho buj\u00f3nu a kousky ku\u0159ec\u00edho masa, a\u017e tekutina z\u00edsk\u00e1 barvu z\u00e1padu slunce. \n\n\n\nHust\u00e9 kokosov\u00e9 ml\u00e9ko p\u0159idan\u00e9 na konci va\u0159en\u00ed v\u0161e zahal\u00ed do kr\u00e9mov\u00e9ho z\u00e1voje, ale p\u0159itom nech\u00e1 vyniknout p\u00e1livosti chilli.\n\n\n\nNudle jsou \u010derstv\u00e9 r\u00fd\u017eov\u00e9 prou\u017eky ur\u010den\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edmo do laksy, dost pevn\u00e9, aby na nich ulp\u011bla om\u00e1\u010dka, ale z\u00e1rove\u0148 natolik pru\u017en\u00e9, aby vyklouzly ze l\u017e\u00edce. Stejn\u011b dob\u0159e v n\u00ed budou plavat japonsk\u00e9 p\u0161eni\u010dn\u00e9 nudle ramen nebo tenk\u00e9 nudle z fazol\u00ed mungo, jejich textura p\u0159i skousnut\u00ed je v\u0161ak jin\u00e1; pro mnoho Malajsijc\u016f je pr\u00e1v\u011b to podstatn\u00e9.\n\n\n\nP\u0159\u00edsady p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00ed st\u00e1nek na tr\u017ei\u0161ti s \u010derstv\u00fdmi potravinami. Po\u0161\u00edrovan\u00e9 krevety se st\u00e1\u010dej\u00ed na hladin\u011b; kousky ku\u0159ec\u00edho masa na jedno sousto klesaj\u00ed do poloviny misky; sma\u017een\u00e9 tofu mezit\u00edm nas\u00e1v\u00e1 v\u00fdvar a p\u0159i ka\u017ed\u00e9m kousnut\u00ed uvol\u0148uje kokosovou chu\u0165. Ryb\u00ed kuli\u010dky nebo pl\u00e1tky surimi tenk\u00e9 jako pap\u00edr jsou voliteln\u00fdm zpest\u0159en\u00edm p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00edc\u00edm pob\u0159e\u017en\u00ed p\u016fvod pokrmu.\n\n\n\nZ\u00e1v\u011bre\u010dn\u00e9 dochucen\u00ed je sv\u011b\u017e\u00ed a p\u0159\u00edmo\u010dar\u00e9: natrhan\u00fd vietnamsk\u00fd koriandr (daun kesum) a n\u011bkolik kousk\u016f poupat etlingery vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed dodaj\u00ed m\u00e1tovou sv\u011b\u017eest, m\u011bs\u00ed\u010dky limetky p\u0159inesou nakysl\u00fd t\u00f3n a na okraji misky \u010dek\u00e1 l\u017e\u00edce krevetov\u00e9ho sambalu pro ty, kdo m\u011b\u0159\u00ed pot\u011b\u0161en\u00ed ve Scovilleov\u00fdch jednotk\u00e1ch.\n\n\n\nCo je prav\u00e1 laksa?\n\n\n\nZast\u00e1nci tradice stanovuj\u00ed t\u0159i nep\u0159ekro\u010diteln\u00e9 hranice: belacan pro hloubku chuti, kesum pro bylinnou v\u016fni a kokosov\u00e9 ml\u00e9ko pro konzistenci. Nahrad\u00edte-li n\u011bkter\u00fd z t\u011bchto pil\u00ed\u0159\u016f jemn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed alternativou, z\u00edsk\u00e1te sice chutnou pol\u00e9vku; u\u017e to v\u0161ak nebude laksa lemak. \n\n\n\nPouli\u010dn\u00ed st\u00e1nka\u0159i jsou ov\u0161em pragmati\u010dt\u00ed. N\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed nastavuj\u00ed kokosov\u00e9 ml\u00e9ko su\u0161en\u00fdm ml\u00e9kem, aby sn\u00ed\u017eili n\u00e1klady; kucha\u0159i ve sp\u011bchu spol\u00e9haj\u00ed na hotov\u00e9 pasty; vegani experimentuj\u00ed s fermentovanou s\u00f3jou v podob\u011b misa, aby napodobili \u017eivo\u010di\u0161n\u00fd charakter krevetov\u00e9 pasty. \n\n\n\nPokud m\u00e1te r\u00e1di nudlov\u00e9 pol\u00e9vky, vyzkou\u0161ejte korejsk\u00fd jjamppong\n\n\n\nV zahrani\u010d\u00ed tvo\u0159ivost jen kvete. V jednom poj\u00edzdn\u00e9m ob\u010derstven\u00ed v Melbourne vm\u00edch\u00e1vaj\u00ed do v\u00fdvaru makadamov\u00e9 m\u00e1slo pro v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed lesk, zat\u00edmco newyorsk\u00fd podnik s ramenem pono\u0159uje do laksy vlnit\u00e9 p\u0161eni\u010dn\u00e9 nudle, aby je host\u00e9 mohli namot\u00e1vat m\u00edsto srk\u00e1n\u00ed. \n\n\n\nO autenticit\u011b nakonec rozhoduje okam\u017eik, kdy se h\u016flky setkaj\u00ed s \u00fasty: p\u0159ipom\u00edn\u00e1 n\u00e1m miska domov, nebo alespo\u0148 vzpom\u00ednku, kterou si chceme uchovat?\n\n\n\nJak pol\u00e9vku laksa pod\u00e1vat a vychutnat si ji?\n\n\n\nMiska se obvykle skl\u00e1d\u00e1 rychle po vrstv\u00e1ch: nejprve do n\u00ed p\u0159ijdou nudle; n\u00e1sleduje proud vrouc\u00edho zlatav\u00e9ho v\u00fdvaru; pak se ve stoupaj\u00edc\u00ed p\u00e1\u0159e zachv\u011bj\u00ed krevety, ku\u0159ec\u00ed maso a tofu. \n\n\n\nP\u016flky vajec natvrdo a tenk\u00e9 nudli\u010dky okurky m\u00edrn\u00ed p\u00e1livost, zat\u00edmco slavnostn\u00ed verze korunuje dal\u0161\u00ed hrst blan\u0161\u00edrovan\u00fdch krevet. \n\n\n\nDob\u0159e vychlazen\u00e1 \u0161\u0165\u00e1va z kalamondinu svou v\u00fdraznou kyselost\u00ed vyva\u017euje hutnost kokosov\u00e9ho ml\u00e9ka a sv\u011btl\u00e9 pivo ze sousedn\u00edho Thajska navod\u00ed stejnou rovnov\u00e1hu. V\u00fdvar zb\u00fdv\u00e1 jen z\u0159\u00eddka, ale pokud se tak stane, m\u016f\u017eete ho druh\u00fd den na spor\u00e1ku zredukovat na hust\u00e9 kokosov\u00e9 rag\u00fa s chut\u00ed mo\u0159e, kter\u00e9 se skv\u011ble hod\u00ed ke sl\u00e1vk\u00e1m nebo jako pikantn\u00ed z\u00e1klad rizota.\n\n\n\n\n\n\tAutentick\u00e1 laksa\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\tKo\u0159enic\u00ed pasta3 st\u0159edn\u00ed cibule3 strou\u017eky \u010desneku1 hrst su\u0161en\u00fdch krevet (propl\u00e1chnut\u00fdch a kr\u00e1tce namo\u010den\u00fdch)4 stonky citronov\u00e9 tr\u00e1vy4 cm \u010derstv\u00e9ho ko\u0159ene kurkumy1 l\u017ei\u010dka ope\u010den\u00e9 krevetov\u00e9 pasty (belacan)3 cm galangalu5 o\u0159ech\u016f kukui (nahra\u010fte makadamov\u00fdmi o\u0159echy)180 ml chu\u0165ov\u011b neutr\u00e1ln\u00edho oleje (na orestov\u00e1n\u00ed pasty)Suroviny1 svazek vietnamsk\u00e9ho koriandru2 kv\u011bty etlingery vzne\u0161en\u00e9 (voliteln\u00e9, nahra\u010fte mal\u00fdm k\u0159ehk\u00fdm st\u0159edem citronov\u00e9 tr\u00e1vy)4 l\u017e\u00edce chilli pasty2 hrnky hust\u00e9ho kokosov\u00e9ho ml\u00e9ka2.5 l vody500 g st\u0159edn\u011b velk\u00fdch krevet (uva\u0159en\u00fdch ve 440 ml vody, vodu z va\u0159en\u00ed si ponechte)500 g ku\u0159ec\u00edho masa (nakr\u00e1jen\u00e9ho na mal\u00e9 kousky)10 kuli\u010dek tofu (rozp\u016flen\u00fdch)2 kostky ku\u0159ec\u00edho buj\u00f3nu5 pl\u00e1tk\u016f su\u0161en\u00e9ho tamarindus\u016fl (podle chuti)\u0161petka cukru (podle chuti)1 balen\u00ed r\u00fd\u017eov\u00fdch nudl\u00ed na laksu (uva\u0159en\u00fdch dom\u011bkka)Voliteln\u00e9 suroviny a obloharyb\u00ed kuli\u010dky (podle chuti)ryb\u00ed kol\u00e1\u010d nakr\u00e1jen\u00fd na pl\u00e1tky (podle chuti)dal\u0161\u00ed blan\u0161\u00edrovan\u00e9 krevety (podle chuti)dal\u0161\u00ed listy vietnamsk\u00e9ho koriandru (nakr\u00e1jen\u00e9 najemno)1 \u010derven\u00e1 cibule (nakr\u00e1jen\u00e1 na tenk\u00e9 pl\u00e1tky)vejce natvrdo (rozp\u016flen\u00e1)1 okurka (nakr\u00e1jen\u00e1 na tenk\u00e9 nudli\u010dky)krevetov\u00fd sambalm\u011bs\u00ed\u010dky limetky\t\n\t\n\t\tP\u0159\u00edpravaUva\u0159te krevety v 500ml vody a dejte stranouRozmixujte v\u0161echny suroviny na ko\u0159enic\u00ed pastu dohladka.Rozeh\u0159ejte chu\u0165ov\u011b neutr\u00e1ln\u00ed olej a orestujte na n\u011bm rozmixovanou ko\u0159enic\u00ed pastu spolu s chilli pastou, dokud se neza\u010dne odd\u011blovat olej a sm\u011bs se v\u00fdrazn\u011b nerozvon\u00ed.P\u0159idejte vodu a pl\u00e1tky su\u0161en\u00e9ho tamarindu, p\u0159ive\u010fte k varu, vlo\u017ete ku\u0159ec\u00ed maso a uva\u0159te ho dom\u011bkka. Pot\u00e9 p\u0159idejte koriandr, kv\u011bty etlingery, kostky buj\u00f3nu, ryb\u00ed kuli\u010dky, pl\u00e1tky ryb\u00edho kol\u00e1\u010de, kuli\u010dky tofu a odlo\u017een\u00fd v\u00fdvar z krevet.Za st\u00e1l\u00e9ho m\u00edch\u00e1n\u00ed p\u0159ilijte kokosov\u00e9 ml\u00e9ko, aby se nesrazilo. Jakmile pol\u00e9vka znovu za\u010dne v\u0159\u00edt, vypn\u011bte plot\u00fdnku a dochu\u0165te sol\u00ed a cukrem.Pod\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00edVyjm\u011bte z v\u00fdvaru pl\u00e1tky tamarindu. Do misky dejte r\u00fd\u017eov\u00e9 nudle na laksu, zalijte je vydatnou porc\u00ed kokosov\u00e9ho v\u00fdvaru i s ostatn\u00edmi surovinami a ozdobte nakr\u00e1jenou cibul\u00ed, okurkou nakr\u00e1jenou na tenk\u00e9 nudli\u010dky, listy vietnamsk\u00e9ho koriandru, m\u011bs\u00ed\u010dkem limetky, p\u016flkou vejce natvrdo a p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b blan\u0161\u00edrovan\u00fdmi krevetami.Krevetov\u00fd sambal pod\u00e1vejte zvl\u00e1\u0161\u0165.\t\n\t\n\t\tKokosov\u00e9 ml\u00e9ko p\u0159id\u00e1vejte v\u017edy a\u017e nakonec a nenechte pol\u00e9vku prudce v\u0159\u00edt, aby om\u00e1\u010dka z\u016fstala kr\u00e9mov\u00e1 a neodd\u011blila se.Tato verze je spojen\u00edm laksa lemak \/ kari laksy: je bohat\u00e1 na kokos, s d\u016frazem na mo\u0159sk\u00e9 plody a sv\u011b\u017eest\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00edch bylinek.\n\t\n\t\n\t\tSoupes et bouillonsMalaisienne\t\n\n\n\n\n\nKulin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 zdroje\n\n\n\n\u2022 Laksa pod lupou, pokrm propojuj\u00edc\u00ed kuchyn\u011b Malajsie a Singapuru \u2013 National Geographic (anglicky)\u2022 Malajsijsk\u00e1 kari laksa \u2013 Reddit (anglicky)\u2022 Autentick\u00fd recept na laksu ze Sarawaku \u2013 TasteAtlas (anglicky)\u2022 Dom\u00e1c\u00ed recept na laksu ze Sarawaku \u7802\u62c9\u8d8a\u53fb\u6c99 \u2013 Huang Kitchen (anglicky)","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/196432","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=196432"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/196432\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/102364"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=196432"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=196432"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=196432"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}