{"id":196424,"title":"Gamjatang, korejsk\u00e1 pol\u00e9vka z vep\u0159ov\u00fdch kost\u00ed","modified":"2026-10-31T16:54:25+01:00","plain":"Hork\u00fd hust\u00fd v\u00fdvar z vep\u0159ov\u00fdch kost\u00ed, zbarven\u00fd do\u010dervena ko\u0159en\u00edm gochugaru, zahu\u0161t\u011bn\u00fd perilou a pln\u00fd brambor, kter\u00e9 se rozpl\u00fdvaj\u00ed na jazyku.\n\n\n\nV hrnci pobubl\u00e1v\u00e1 v\u00fdvar, na povrchu \u010derven\u00fd od gochugaru a leskl\u00fd d\u00edky \u017eelatin\u011b. Z p\u00e1ry stoup\u00e1 v\u016fn\u011b perily a pasty doenjang. Brambora se pod l\u017e\u00edc\u00ed rozpad\u00e1. Stolovn\u00edci ob\u00edraj\u00ed maso z kost\u00ed, zat\u00edmco \u010derstv\u00e9 listy perily v hork\u00e9m v\u00fdvaru vadnou. \n\n\n\nStejn\u011b jako jin\u00e9 asijsk\u00e9 pol\u00e9vky pro zah\u0159\u00e1t\u00ed je gamjatang j\u00eddlo ke spole\u010dn\u00e9mu stolu, vydatn\u00e9 a trochu nepo\u0159\u00e1dn\u00e9…ale p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm v\u00fdborn\u00e9\n\n\n\nDal\u0161\u00ed velk\u00e1 klasika mezi po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b pikantn\u00edmi korejsk\u00fdmi pol\u00e9vkami: jjamppong\n\n\n\nCo je gamjatang?\n\n\n\nGamjatang je hust\u00e1 pol\u00e9vka z vep\u0159ov\u00fdch kost\u00ed, kter\u00e1 stav\u00ed na rovnov\u00e1ze n\u011bkolika vrstev chut\u00ed: obratl\u016f nebo kr\u010dn\u00edch kost\u00ed, fermentovan\u00e9 pasty doenjang, su\u0161en\u00e9 listov\u00e9 zeleniny, brambor a perily (shiso) ve dvou podob\u00e1ch. Je p\u0159\u00edbuzn\u00e1 pokrm\u016fm kimchi jjigae a samgyetang, od nich\u017e se li\u0161\u00ed \u017eelatinou z kost\u00ed a typickou chut\u00ed perily. Gamja znamen\u00e1 brambora, tang ozna\u010duje pol\u00e9vku vydatn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e guk.\n\n\n\nPodle jedn\u00e9 legendy ozna\u010duje gamja konkr\u00e9tn\u00ed vep\u0159ovou kost, \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd ofici\u00e1ln\u00ed zdroj to v\u0161ak nepotvrzuje. Vysv\u011btlen\u00ed je ekonomick\u00e9: ve star\u0161\u00edch verz\u00edch brambory dod\u00e1valy j\u00eddlu objem, kdy\u017e se nedost\u00e1valo masa. V 90. letech 20. stolet\u00ed restaura\u010dn\u00ed \u0159et\u011bzce pom\u011br obr\u00e1tily: v\u00edce masa, m\u00e9n\u011b brambor, n\u00e1zev v\u0161ak z\u016fstal.\n\n\n\nZ r\u00fd\u017eov\u00fdch pol\u00ed v \u010colle na \u017eelezni\u010dn\u00ed stavby v Soulu\n\n\n\nGamjatang poch\u00e1z\u00ed z r\u00fd\u017eov\u00fdch n\u00ed\u017ein v \u010colle. Skot byl vyhrazen k orb\u011b a na hostiny, nikoli na grilovan\u00e9 pokrmy jako LA galbi. D\u011bln\u00edci se museli spokojit s vep\u0159ov\u00fdmi kr\u010dn\u00edmi kostmi a p\u00e1te\u0159\u00ed, no\u017ei\u010dky se pou\u017e\u00edvaly na jokbal. \n\n\n\nP\u0159i dlouh\u00e9m va\u0159en\u00ed tyto opom\u00edjen\u00e9 \u010d\u00e1sti uvol\u0148ovaly kolagen a morek. V chud\u00fdch m\u011bs\u00edc\u00edch v\u0161e dopl\u0148ovaly su\u0161en\u00e9 listy z podzimn\u00ed sklizn\u011b.\n\n\n\nDal\u0161\u00ed korejsk\u00fd pokrm s v\u00fdraznou chut\u00ed gochugaru: dakgalbi\n\n\n\nS d\u011bln\u00edky se j\u00eddlo dostalo na sever. Po rolnick\u00e9m povst\u00e1n\u00ed Tonghak v roce 1894 proudili pracovn\u00edci z \u010colly do In\u010dchonu a na stavby trati Kjongin, prvn\u00ed \u017eeleznice v Koreji. Kolem roku 1900 si pr\u00fd Han Dong-gil, rod\u00e1k ze Sun\u010dchangu, kter\u00e9ho nepokoje p\u0159ipravily o majetek, otev\u0159el pobl\u00ed\u017e Norjangd\u017einu d\u011blnickou j\u00eddelnu, aby nasytil \u017eelezni\u010dn\u00ed d\u011bln\u00edky: obrovsk\u00e9 hrnce vep\u0159ov\u00fdch obratl\u016f, brambor a siraegi. Levn\u00e9, v\u00fd\u017eivn\u00e9 j\u00eddlo jako stvo\u0159en\u00e9 pro fyzickou pr\u00e1ci.\n\n\n\nVarianta sadaengi z provincie Kjonggi d\u00e1vala p\u0159ednost kr\u010dn\u00edm kostem a brambory vynech\u00e1vala. V soulsk\u00e9 \u201eulici gamjaguku\u201c ve \u010dtvrti Ungam-dong se v 80. letech brambory op\u011bt dostaly do pop\u0159ed\u00ed. \u0158et\u011bzce z 90. let (Wondang, Cham-imat, Jomaru) zavedly jako standard tang s v\u011bt\u0161\u00edm pod\u00edlem masa. \n\n\n\nZp\u016fsob stolov\u00e1n\u00ed se v\u0161ak nezm\u011bnil: hrnec uprost\u0159ed stolu, ob\u00edr\u00e1n\u00ed masa z kost\u00ed, j\u00eddlo s p\u0159\u00e1teli ve stejn\u00e9m duchu jako samgyeopsal nebo yachaejeon.\n\n\n\nDal\u0161\u00ed velk\u00fd hrnec korejsk\u00e9 pol\u00e9vky ke spole\u010dn\u00e9mu stolu, kde se maso ob\u00edr\u00e1 z kost\u00ed, tentokr\u00e1t v\u0161ak hov\u011bz\u00ed: galbitang\n\n\n\nHlavn\u00ed suroviny na gamjatang\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nKr\u010dn\u00ed kosti (mok-ppyeo) dod\u00e1vaj\u00ed k\u0159ehk\u00e9 maso a kolagen. Obratle (deung-ppyeo) nab\u00edzej\u00ed pot\u011b\u0161en\u00ed z ob\u00edr\u00e1n\u00ed masa p\u0159\u00edmo z kosti. Jde o rustik\u00e1ln\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u00fapravu vep\u0159ov\u00e9ho ne\u017e nap\u0159\u00edklad jeyuk bokkeum\n\n\n\nBrambory nas\u00e1vaj\u00ed tuk a pikantn\u00ed v\u00fdvar. \n\n\n\nSiraegi, su\u0161en\u00e1 \u0159edkvov\u00e1 na\u0165, dod\u00e1v\u00e1 zemit\u00fd z\u00e1klad; ugeoji, vn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed listy pekingsk\u00e9ho zel\u00ed, p\u0159edstavuj\u00ed leh\u010d\u00ed alternativu.\n\n\n\nDob\u0159e p\u0159ipraven\u00e9 kalguksu nab\u00edz\u00ed stejn\u00fd h\u0159ejiv\u00fd po\u017eitek z hork\u00e9 pol\u00e9vky pod\u00e1van\u00e9 uprost\u0159ed stolu\n\n\n\nZ\u00e1kladem dochucen\u00ed je doenjang, jeho\u017e hlubok\u00e1 fermentovan\u00e1 chu\u0165 vyva\u017euje tu\u010dnost. Gochugaru dod\u00e1v\u00e1 barvu a p\u00e1livost; gochujang z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 v pozad\u00ed, aby pol\u00e9vka nebyla p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 t\u011b\u017ek\u00e1. Z\u00e1klad dopl\u0148uj\u00ed \u010desnek, z\u00e1zvor, guk-ganjang a aekjeot.\n\n\n\nPerila d\u00e1v\u00e1 j\u00eddlu jeho typick\u00fd charakter. Deulkkae garu (mlet\u00e1 semena) emulguje tuk a prop\u016fj\u010duje v\u00fdvaru plnou, o\u0159\u00ed\u0161kovou chu\u0165. \u010cerstv\u00e9 kkaennip, p\u0159idan\u00e9 na z\u00e1v\u011br, dod\u00e1v\u00e1 bylinn\u00fd t\u00f3n s n\u00e1dechem m\u00e1ty. Zelen\u00e9 chilli papri\u010dky \u2014 v jin\u00e9 podob\u011b je najdete v pokrmu gochu twigim \u2014 a jarn\u00ed cibulka pol\u00e9vku p\u0159i pod\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed osv\u011b\u017e\u00ed.\n\n\n\nK\u0159upav\u00fd bindaetteok je ke gamjatangu v\u017edy trefou do \u010dern\u00e9ho\n\n\n\nZnaky autentick\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edpravy a chyby, kter\u00fdm se vyhnout\n\n\n\nDobr\u00fd gamjatang pozn\u00e1te podle neporu\u0161en\u00fdch kost\u00ed: maso si ob\u00edr\u00e1te sami, nedostanete ho vykost\u011bn\u00e9. \n\n\n\nV\u00fdvar je nepr\u016fhledn\u00fd, bohat\u00fd na \u017eelatinu, t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 stejn\u011b hust\u00fd jako v\u00fdvar na ramen paitan, jeho chu\u0165 v\u0161ak stoj\u00ed na doenjangu a deulkkae garu. K tomu hojnost siraegi nebo ugeoji, brambory a \u010derstv\u00e1 perila. \n\n\n\nVarovn\u00e9 sign\u00e1ly: sladk\u00fd v\u00fdvar zalo\u017een\u00fd na gochujangu nebo kuku\u0159i\u010dn\u00e9m sirupu, japonsk\u00e9 miso m\u00edsto doenjangu, chyb\u011bj\u00edc\u00ed perila nebo listov\u00e1 zelenina.\n\n\n\n\n\n\tAutentick\u00fd gamjatang\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\n\t\t1.5 kg kost\u00ed z vep\u0159ov\u00e9 krkovice4 brambory (oloupan\u00e9 a nakr\u00e1jen\u00e9 na velk\u00e9 kusy)500 g siraegi (\u0159edkvov\u00e9 nat\u011b) (uva\u0159en\u00e9 (nebo blan\u0161\u00edrovan\u00e9 mlad\u00e9 zel\u00ed eolgari \u010di blan\u0161\u00edrovan\u00e9 vn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed listy pekingsk\u00e9ho zel\u00ed))1 stonek korejsk\u00e9 jarn\u00ed cibulky (nakr\u00e1jen\u00fd nahrubo)1 \u010derven\u00e1 chilli papri\u010dka (nakr\u00e1jen\u00e1 na tenk\u00e9 pl\u00e1tky)2 chilli papri\u010dky Cheongyang (nakr\u00e1jen\u00e9 na tenk\u00e9 pl\u00e1tky)12 list\u016f perily (nakr\u00e1jen\u00fdch nahrubo)2 l\u017e\u00edce mlet\u00fdch semen perily (nebo v\u00edce podle chuti)Voda na va\u0159en\u00ed masa3.5 l vody1 l\u017e\u00edce doenjangu (vrchovat\u00e1, korejsk\u00e1 fermentovan\u00e1 s\u00f3jov\u00e1 pasta)2 stonky jarn\u00ed cibulky1 mal\u00e1 cibule1 hrst strou\u017ek\u016f \u010desneku (cel\u00fdch)1 kus z\u00e1zvoru (o velikosti 2 strou\u017ek\u016f \u010desneku)4 l\u017e\u00edce z\u00e1zvorov\u00e9ho alkoholu (nebo cheongju)2 listy bobkov\u00e9ho listu12 kuli\u010dek cel\u00e9ho pep\u0159eNa dochucen\u00ed3 l\u017e\u00edce gochugaru (vrchovat\u00e9)2 l\u017e\u00edce doenjangu (korejsk\u00e1 fermentovan\u00e1 s\u00f3jov\u00e1 pasta)1 l\u017e\u00edce gochujangu1 l\u017e\u00edce korejsk\u00e9 s\u00f3jov\u00e9 om\u00e1\u010dky do pol\u00e9vek (nebo tmav\u00e9 s\u00f3jov\u00e9 om\u00e1\u010dky)2 l\u017e\u00edce tu\u0148\u00e1kov\u00e9 om\u00e1\u010dky (nebo ryb\u00ed om\u00e1\u010dky)2 l\u017e\u00edce v\u00edna Shaoxing2 l\u017e\u00edce \u010desneku (nasekan\u00e9ho)1 l\u017ei\u010dka z\u00e1zvoru (nasekan\u00e9ho)1 l\u017e\u00edce perilov\u00e9ho oleje (voliteln\u011b)1 \u0161petka pep\u0159e0.5 l\u017ei\u010dky mo\u0159sk\u00e9 soli (mno\u017estv\u00ed upravte podle chuti)\t\n\t\n\t\tP\u0159\u00edprava kost\u00edKosti z vep\u0159ov\u00e9 krkovice opl\u00e1chn\u011bte pod tekouc\u00ed vodou, pot\u00e9 je ve velk\u00e9 m\u00edse zalijte vodou a nechte 2 a\u017e 3 hodiny odmo\u010dit, aby se vyplavila krev. Vodu n\u011bkolikr\u00e1t vym\u011b\u0148te.Odmo\u010den\u00e9 kosti blan\u0161\u00edrujte 3 a\u017e 4 minuty ve vrouc\u00ed vod\u011b, pot\u00e9 je jednu po druh\u00e9 opl\u00e1chn\u011bte studenou vodou.P\u0159\u00edprava v\u00fdvaruBlan\u0161\u00edrovan\u00e9 kosti vlo\u017ete do velk\u00e9ho hrnce spolu s vodou, doenjangem, jarn\u00ed cibulkou, malou cibul\u00ed, cel\u00fdmi strou\u017eky \u010desneku, kusem z\u00e1zvoru, z\u00e1zvorov\u00fdm alkoholem (nebo cheongju), bobkov\u00fdm listem a kuli\u010dkami pep\u0159e.P\u0159ive\u010fte k varu, pot\u00e9 st\u00e1hn\u011bte na st\u0159edn\u00ed plamen a nechte zvolna va\u0159it 1 hodinu 30 minut, aby vznikl siln\u00fd v\u00fdvar. Sce\u010fte a maso i v\u00fdvar si ponechte.P\u0159\u00edprava zeleniny a ochucen\u00edP\u0159ipravte siraegi (nebo zvolenou n\u00e1hradu): jemn\u011b opl\u00e1chn\u011bte, v p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b pot\u0159eby odstra\u0148te ze stonk\u016f tenkou pr\u016fhlednou slupku a pot\u00e9 nakr\u00e1jejte na kousky.Siraegi prom\u00edchejte s gochugaru, doenjangem, gochujangem, s\u00f3jovou om\u00e1\u010dkou do pol\u00e9vek, tu\u0148\u00e1kovou om\u00e1\u010dkou (nebo ryb\u00ed om\u00e1\u010dkou), v\u00ednem Shaoxing, nasekan\u00fdm \u010desnekem, nasekan\u00fdm z\u00e1zvorem, perilov\u00fdm olejem (voliteln\u011b), pep\u0159em a sol\u00ed.Brambory oloupejte a nakr\u00e1jejte na velk\u00e9 kusy. Listy perily a korejskou jarn\u00ed cibulku nakr\u00e1jejte nahrubo, pot\u00e9 nakr\u00e1jejte chilli papri\u010dky na tenk\u00e9 pl\u00e1tky podle po\u017eadovan\u00e9 p\u00e1livosti.Va\u0159en\u00edUva\u0159en\u00e9 maso a scezen\u00fd v\u00fdvar vra\u0165te do hrnce a p\u0159ive\u010fte k varu. (Voliteln\u011b: v\u00fdvar p\u0159ece\u010fte p\u0159es pl\u00e1t\u00fdnko, abyste odstranili tuk a z\u00edskali \u010dir\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdvar.)Jakmile se v\u00fdvar prudce va\u0159\u00ed, p\u0159idejte brambory a va\u0159te p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b 5 minut.Kdy\u017e jsou brambory uva\u0159en\u00e9 p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b z jedn\u00e9 t\u0159etiny, p\u0159idejte ochucen\u00e9 siraegi a znovu p\u0159ive\u010fte k varu.Va\u0159te dal\u0161\u00edch 10 minut, pot\u00e9 p\u0159idejte chilli papri\u010dky a korejskou jarn\u00ed cibulku.Ochutnejte a podle pot\u0159eby dosolte. Nakonec p\u0159idejte listy perily a mlet\u00e1 semena perily pro v\u00fdrazn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed v\u016fni.\t\n\t\n\t\tListy perily (nebo mlad\u00e9 v\u00fdhonky perily) dodaj\u00ed v\u00fdrazn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed v\u016fni. Pro \u010dir\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdvar jej p\u0159ece\u010fte p\u0159es pl\u00e1t\u00fdnko, abyste odstranili p\u0159ebyte\u010dn\u00fd tuk.\n\t\n\t\n\t\tPlat principalCor\u00e9enne","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/196424","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=196424"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/196424\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/117951"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=196424"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=196424"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/marcwiner.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=196424"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}